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Glueing cellular PVC board to fiberglass

Old 07-18-2020, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SEABIRD254 View Post
Wasnt measured but I needed a flat shovel and a lot of leaverage to get off.
That is amazing to me. I had no idea epoxy/glass would bond that well to PVC. So does anyone care to suggest the best method of "end bonding" two sheets together? Scarf joint epoxied or butt with narrow reinforcement band top and bottom, say for a bigger top? With that kind of bonding strength, I'm thinking there would be many boating applications in non structural or non-critical applications?

The other question that comes to mind is how this stuff holds up over time unprotected in the sun or if a 2 part polyurethane paint will melt it? If nobody knows for sure, I guess I have two more experiments in store.
Old 07-18-2020, 07:04 PM
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KISS principle works here, keep it simple and dont overthink. 5200 will work fine for this application. I have used it to adhere PVC blocks to transom many times to attach transducers instead of drilling holes. Sand the glass a little where you want to attach the pvc and it will hold fine.
Old 07-18-2020, 08:48 PM
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Its expanded pvc so it bonds better than the solid pipe type pvc. Not to say the pipe type stuff doesnt bond well. When you remove the skin on it its basically high density foam. You can get both pvc and abs pipe that has an expanded core as well.

as far as binding multiple sheets PVC glue is the best way to do it. The joint it stronger than the material. 5200 or epoxy both work well as long as you prep the surface of the pvc. I like 5200 for doing things like pvc mounting pads.
Old 07-19-2020, 06:19 AM
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I used the weld mount stud system to attach the boards on the interior of my console when I rewired the boat. I wanted the flexibility to be able to replace the boards if I made some changes to the boat at a later date. I'm really happy with how well it worked.





Old 07-19-2020, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jeremyj View Post
I used the weld mount stud system to attach the boards on the interior of my console when I rewired the boat. I wanted the flexibility to be able to replace the boards if I made some changes to the boat at a later date. I'm really happy with how well it worked.


I wasnt familiar with weld mount studs. Had to look that one up. Clever idea, I like it. I'm guessing you used epoxy to mount the studs to glass console?

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Old 07-19-2020, 10:22 AM
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Thanks for sharing your photos and experiences. Hopefully it will help others considering similar projects.

Anyone know what the UV resistance of this pvc foam board is without paint? Im not seeing info from mfg.

Aside from the uv issue, I'm thinking that the softer, more porous core that was exposed on cut edges might stain or get mold if untreated/unpainted on my t-top application? Time will tell.

The mfg said use latex paint only. Sorry but I'm not putting house paint on my top. Has anyone painted this material with awlgrip or Interlux linear polyurethane? I'm thinking the solvent in these 2 part paints will melt it but who knows?

I have a decent amount of "Perfection" left over that I'd like to hit the top with. I guess I'll have to mix a tiny bit and try it out on scraps to see what happens.
Old 07-19-2020, 10:34 AM
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I used the epoxy they recommended. Those things are not coming off.
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Old 07-19-2020, 08:06 PM
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That t-top looks good, smart move.

Never considered using PVC panels to mount electrical too. I am needed to rewrite my console soon, now thinking mounting it to a pvc panel that is hinged to allow working on it without being upside down and twisted trying to reach all the connections. Have it wire so I can lift from the bottom and it will swing up flat.
Old 07-20-2020, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by CR295 View Post
Thanks for sharing your photos and experiences. Hopefully it will help others considering similar projects.

Anyone know what the UV resistance of this pvc foam board is without paint? Im not seeing info from mfg.

It is pretty resistant.. We see yellowing in the field depending on exposure and application around years 6 to 7 but the product is still dimensionally stable in its application. . However, we do not see PVC in a flat face full exposure to the sun application.

Aside from the uv issue, I'm thinking that the softer, more porous core that was exposed on cut edges might stain or get mold if untreated/unpainted on my t-top application? Time will tell.

It will. Ideally you want to seal all edges especially in this application with paint.


The mfg said use latex paint only. Sorry but I'm not putting house paint on my top. Has anyone painted this material with awlgrip or Interlux linear polyurethane? I'm thinking the solvent in these 2 part paints will melt it but who knows?

Not sure but I would try and test it. Aqua -DIY has a nice PVC paint. PVC manufacturers are not testing this for marine applications or anything else besides household applications. You need to more concerned about dark colors and expansion and contraction. Once its painted, there is no warranty. Ship-lap joints perform best for overlaps

I have a decent amount of "Perfection" left over that I'd like to hit the top with. I guess I'll have to mix a tiny bit and try it out on scraps to see what happens.

Answers above
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Old 07-20-2020, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremyj View Post
I used the weld mount stud system to attach the boards on the interior of my console when I rewired the boat. I wanted the flexibility to be able to replace the boards if I made some changes to the boat at a later date. I'm really happy with how well it worked.

So who started this obsession with using 48,000 zip ties to secure 9 wires in a boat?
Old 07-20-2020, 06:07 PM
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Im not sure about you but regardless of the number of zip ties having tidy wiring is key when there is an issue to diagnose. So...zip tie away sir

im not sure what the exact expectations are about UV exposure with this type of PVC but I do know normal plumbing white pvc is not UV rated but the grey pvc conduit is. So Id say you need to protect it. Epoxy sticks to prepped pvc and LPU(linear polyurethane) sticks to epoxy prepped with 320 grit. So Id say do what your going to do with it and hit it with epoxy then LPU to protect it. Or glass it then use a LPU coating.

lots of potential with this stuff as long as you use it correctly and know its limitations. Holds a screw better than most cores. Im definitely going to use it in my project.
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Old 07-21-2020, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Lifeislarge View Post
So who started this obsession with using 48,000 zip ties to secure 9 wires in a boat?
Here is the finished job. Personally, I don't think I went overboard on zip ties, but to each his own


Old 07-21-2020, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremyj View Post

I think that looks really good. Where did you source those zip tie saddles and did you mount with epoxy or some other glue?
Old 07-21-2020, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jeremyj View Post
Here is the finished job. Personally, I don't think I went overboard on zip ties, but to each his own


Just gonna say it. That sure is clean.

If you ever get sick of your day job, I think someone would take you on. 😉
Old 07-22-2020, 12:27 PM
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the tie wrap mounts are weld mount. I purchased them from https://www.imarineusa.com/

Old 08-01-2020, 08:42 AM
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I've used GOOP adhesive with 100% success on PVC trim board and fiberglass. I used to glue fins to the bottom of my fiberglass kayak. It's removable with some effort and won't destroy the surfaces when removed.
Old 08-01-2020, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by CR295 View Post


This looks great and is something I may try, but I would spray paint it with a two-part urethane. However, I was wondering if you have an issue with expansion and/or contraction? Thanks
Old 08-02-2020, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by fireboat View Post
This looks great and is something I may try, but I would spray paint it with a two-part urethane. However, I was wondering if you have an issue with expansion and/or contraction? Thanks
No issues with expansion or contraction thus far but...

I did have a problem with the top banging against the anodized frame in very rough conditions. No rattling or vibrations (which was what I expected) but the top would apparently flex over the center frame work and bang occasionally if the boat slammed down in the chop.

Initially I had only secured it around the perimeter so pushing up with my hand on the center portion stopped the flexing and identified where the problem was. Later, after I installed the electronics box (4 thru-bolts in the area where most of this flexing was occurring, that issue went away.

Running bolts thru any accessories on your top, IE., antenna, outrigger, anchor lights, spreader lights, etc., will likely help tighten it up as well. I imagine that a thin, high quality, self stick weather stripping might also help with that issue.

For others considering painting this material, Interlux Primekote, 2 part primer and Interlux Perfection, 2 part polyurethane applied perfectly when rolled, adhered exceptionally well and did not have any reaction with the PVC.
Old 08-02-2020, 09:07 AM
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I don't mean to hijack but my question seems to be on topic; I have a bunch of 1/2" PVC from a 4'x8' sheet leftover from a home improvement project. I need to replace my battery charger, which is through-bolted inside my console.

Rather than drill new holes for the new charger (which has different footprint than the old charger), I was thinking I'd through-bolt the PVC to the console using the existing holes and secure the new charger to the PVC.

I don't think 1/2" is thick enough to securely hold screws (the new charger weighs about 12 lbs) so I was thinking I'd laminate two pieces of PVC together to give the screws more bite.

What would be the best way to laminate the PVC? Simply use regular plumbers PVC primer and cement? Construction adhesive? Something else?

Thanks.
Old 08-02-2020, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
What would be the best way to laminate the PVC? Simply use regular plumbers PVC primer and cement? Construction adhesive? Something else?

Thanks.
Yep, just the regular PVC cement from the plumbing section.

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