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Composite, foam or wood

Old 03-25-2020, 12:27 PM
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Default Composite, foam or wood

Getting close to installing a new deck on a '73 Stamas gut job. I dont mind the extra weight of composite or wood, just putting feelers out there to see what the professionals might do on thier own vessels. There will be 7 deck hatches to boot.
Old 03-25-2020, 01:09 PM
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A 4x8 sheet of carbon core (nidacore)

93$ but shipping is usually another 120$ for up to 5 sheets.


What is the going price for decent plywood?
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Old 03-25-2020, 04:57 PM
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Im going with Divinycell H80 with 2 layers of 1808 on each side using epoxy.
Old 03-25-2020, 05:44 PM
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1.5" Divinycell would probably be my first suggestion.

I have seen a floor made with 1/2" marine ply and teak overlay that was amazingly solid to wank on.

That's a nice looking restoration you have going there!
Old 03-25-2020, 06:19 PM
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Thanks for the input fellas. Last time i checked on wood it was about $70 a sheet. My biggest concern though is the amount of screws ill be punching into the deck for the hatches. This is an all epoxy rig so far and dont plan on changing it up. My other concern is i dont want to get pushed around in a light chop so thats why i dont mind the extra wieght. Going on 3yrs now on this project and im looking gorward to having an actual surface to walk on.
Old 03-25-2020, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by surv View Post
.............
That's a nice looking restoration you have going there!
Yeah, what he said.
Gerald
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:52 PM
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If you think ahead to where the access hatches will be installed you can make mounting points with G10 (solid fiberglass). Also go ahead and get the hatch gutters made or buy some pre-made and install them while the deck is out of the boat and you can glass them in from the back side.
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Old 03-25-2020, 07:08 PM
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I'm impressed. If the rest of you haven't seen a perfectionist, this is fine example. I hope you enjoy using the boat as much as you enjoyed building it.
Old 03-25-2020, 07:10 PM
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Surv
thats kinda where im headed, with making backing plates or inserting coosa where hardware will be mounted. No takers on composite so far, ive heard that it can sag if not heavily glassed ??
Old 03-25-2020, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by xlr8ngn View Post
I'm impressed. If the rest of you haven't seen a perfectionist, this is fine example. I hope you enjoy using the boat as much as you enjoyed building it.
Trick photography !! Lol, preciate the kind words. Im looking forward to getting it wrapped up and getting the kids back out but its probably another year before she gets dunked.
Old 03-26-2020, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by surv View Post
If you think ahead to where the access hatches will be installed you can make mounting points with G10 (solid fiberglass). Also go ahead and get the hatch gutters made or buy some pre-made and install them while the deck is out of the boat and you can glass them in from the back side.
Where do you get pre made gutters?
Old 03-26-2020, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 73Stamas View Post
Surv
thats kinda where im headed, with making backing plates or inserting coosa where hardware will be mounted. No takers on composite so far, ive heard that it can sag if not heavily glassed ??
I was waiting to see how others responded but there haven't been too many for some reason. You probably know how I feel already but I'd recommend the polypropylene honeycomb (Carbon Core or Plascore). I now use it on all the decks of our newbuilds and rebuilds, cockpit, cabin and even crowned foredecks! Engineered properly, like any deck should be, they will be just as sturdy as any other material. Jack, who now owns Carbon Core, used to be the applications engineer for what was then called Nida Core and then, as now, will calculate for you the recommended core thickness and skins for your spans and loading requirements. If you're unsure of what to do, it's a service that will take the guesswork out of it.

As with any core, some additional attention needs to be paid to the details. Highly loaded attachment points like tower legs, chair pedestals and cleats are much easier addressed ahead of time so higher density cores can be substituted to prevent core crush (which isn't that bad already) and backing plates for drilling and tapping make life much easier. Another minor item is anywhere a cold (or hot) storage box on top of the deck needs to have additional thermal insulation or the honeycomb will sweat on the underside. We add a layer of Divinycell in the bottoms of any ice boxes when we build them on the deck.

Originally Posted by jhendric View Post
Where do you get pre made gutters?
Get in touch with Daytrip01 on here. He's made me a set of gutters and lids that will arrive today. If they're anything like the pictures he's sent they will be fantastic!
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bills106 View Post
I was waiting to see how others responded but there haven't been too many for some reason. You probably know how I feel already but I'd recommend the polypropylene honeycomb (Carbon Core or Plascore). I now use it on all the decks of our newbuilds and rebuilds, cockpit, cabin and even crowned foredecks! Engineered properly, like any deck should be, they will be just as sturdy as any other material. Jack, who now owns Carbon Core, used to be the applications engineer for what was then called Nida Core and then, as now, will calculate for you the recommended core thickness and skins for your spans and loading requirements. If you're unsure of what to do, it's a service that will take the guesswork out of it.

As with any core, some additional attention needs to be paid to the details. Highly loaded attachment points like tower legs, chair pedestals and cleats are much easier addressed ahead of time so higher density cores can be substituted to prevent core crush (which isn't that bad already) and backing plates for drilling and tapping make life much easier. Another minor item is anywhere a cold (or hot) storage box on top of the deck needs to have additional thermal insulation or the honeycomb will sweat on the underside. We add a layer of Divinycell in the bottoms of any ice boxes when we build them on the deck.



Get in touch with Daytrip01 on here. He's made me a set of gutters and lids that will arrive today. If they're anything like the pictures he's sent they will be fantastic!
Thank you for the info bils, much appreciated, im going to give the honeycomb a whirl.
Old 03-27-2020, 06:35 AM
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This is the Carbon Core honeycomb with a Whaleboard like material inserted where tower legs will bolt down. It is denser than starboard and its surface has tooth so it makes a great bond to the glass. Two of us picked the whole floor up and placed it in the boat in one piece on this 24’. Very light. I recessed the hatch gutter and glassed the backside before putting it in the boat. Easy and way strong if doing it that way.

Old 03-27-2020, 03:49 PM
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Very nice ! Like the console too. My materials should be here Tuesday, planning on finishing rigging tubes and start laying out the deck Saturday.
Old 03-29-2020, 01:31 PM
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this is a deck project my son and I are doing. We used airex t92.100. We have used a lot as the hatch lids are cored with it. I want to try the honeycomb. The guy wanted the gutters proud on the deck to help channel water away. I would normally recess as well. They are glassed from underside as well
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Old 03-30-2020, 05:08 AM
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Lookin' good, im gettin excited to get my honeycomb for the weekend to start the layout. Walkin over the stringers and bulk heads for the past few years is getting old, my kids enjoy it, makes for good boat Yoga !!
Old 04-04-2020, 04:58 AM
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I took Bill’s advice as well and went with Carbon Core 1” honeycomb for my deck. One of the major deciding factors was that they were the easiest and cheapest supplier to deal with shipping 4x8 sheets to me in deep south Texas. $140 flat rate for a 4x8 pallet with as much core material as I wanted since the weight is negligible.

I did not know the owner of carbon core would offer advice so I just kind of winged it and went with my gut on the lamination schedule; one layer of 18 oz roving woven on the bottom and two on the top. Poly resin. The second layer on the top tabs on to the hull sides and top of the hatch gutter flanges as well. The hatch gutters are from Daytrip, highly recommended.

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Old 04-04-2020, 05:36 AM
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[QUOTE=Sharpest;13511077]I took Bill’s advice as well and went with Carbon Core 1” honeycomb for my deck. One of the major deciding factors was that they were the easiest and cheapest supplier to deal with shipping 4x8 sheets to me in deep south Texas. $140 flat rate for a 4x8 pallet with as much core material as I wanted since the weight is negligible.

I did not know the owner of carbon core would offer advice so I just kind of winged it and went with my gut on the lamination schedule; one layer of 18 oz roving woven on the bottom and two on the top. Poly resin. The second layer on the top tabs on to the hull sides and top of the hatch gutter flanges as well. The hatch gutters are from Daytrip, highly recommended.


I followed Bills schedule and advice. His advice was priceless. I did a 28 foot cold molded center console, closed transom, new stringers and deck. Took it down to the hull. You will not be disappointed with the nidacore aka plascore, honeycomb. I put coosa with drilled and tapped aluminum plates embedded for the Ttop and leaning post legs. I also used pre made fiberglass hatches and glassed them in. This will be our second season since the rebuild. I am super pleased with the results. The plascore is so easy to work with too. @whiskey_plank is my Instagram, lots of pics there. Your project looks very well done.


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Old 04-06-2020, 11:07 AM
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[QUOTE=Newport Style;13511173]
Originally Posted by Sharpest View Post
I took Bill’s advice as well and went with Carbon Core 1” honeycomb for my deck. One of the major deciding factors was that they were the easiest and cheapest supplier to deal with shipping 4x8 sheets to me in deep south Texas. $140 flat rate for a 4x8 pallet with as much core material as I wanted since the weight is negligible.

I did not know the owner of carbon core would offer advice so I just kind of winged it and went with my gut on the lamination schedule; one layer of 18 oz roving woven on the bottom and two on the top. Poly resin. The second layer on the top tabs on to the hull sides and top of the hatch gutter flanges as well. The hatch gutters are from Daytrip, highly recommended.


I followed Bills schedule and advice. His advice was priceless. I did a 28 foot cold molded center console, closed transom, new stringers and deck. Took it down to the hull. You will not be disappointed with the nidacore aka plascore, honeycomb. I put coosa with drilled and tapped aluminum plates embedded for the Ttop and leaning post legs. I also used pre made fiberglass hatches and glassed them in. This will be our second season since the rebuild. I am super pleased with the results. The plascore is so easy to work with too. @whiskey_plank is my Instagram, lots of pics there. Your project looks very well done.
Well, I got my materials and then the Honey do list showed up...I only got a chance to start laying out the casting deck and realized I needed to put a little bit of a cleat in the center for some additional support so it may take me a little while longer before I can post any progress pics. I will say that I like the Honeycomb, much easier to transport from the bed of my truck to the garage than plywood. I plan on 2 layers of 1708 on the bottom, 2 layers on top and tabbing them into the hull sides as well. Still going to pay for the epoxy. That's one nice vessel you have there.

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