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So it's time!!

Old 03-03-2020, 06:35 AM
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Default So it's time!!

Well it's time to do a few projects on the 2001 25 open. There are a few things I needed to do since my repower a year and a half ago.
First project was to modify the buggy top on the new tower so it would fold down to make it under the bridge. I did a lot of measuring and checking the angles to make sure it would work as planned.

Project 1
Since the buggy top was removable already this project was not to bad. I first marked out the angles and round overs for the corners that needed it. After they were marked out the rest was all done by hand. I taped off the areas not worked on then I slowly removed the excess material with a file. Then I block sanded those areas down to 800grit.

After the sanding was done I taped off the areas that were worked on. I was given a tip by a friend that welds aluminum to paint those areas with Rustoleum high performance aluminum color paint. It was a perfect match and looks very good on the small areas worked on. It looks like the same paint that was used on all the welds. I also installed a nylon washer between the two surfaces.
A tip JB Weld makes a two-part glue that glues plastic to metal. I have been impressed with it in the past and works well for this application to hold the nylon washers in place.

I found some really nice polished 316 stainless knobs for the buggy top. I did clear coat them with clear Yamaha motor paint. I also glued in place a nylon isolation bushing on part of the threaded rod to isolate the knob from the pipe work. And as I always do Tef-Gel was applied to all the threaded components.




No work was needed on the upper joint. I just had to install the nylon washers and knobs. When lowered the buggy top folds perfectly between the upper steering box and the radar.


Project 2
Since I film a lot I made a new simple removable pan and tilt mount for the upper station. I had a old Birdsall center rigger mount that I pulled some parts off to make the mount. I used a remote Bescor pan and tilt mount for the video camera. I have used the Bescor pan and tilts for years and they have held up great and are not to expensive. It will be hard wired to the upper stations bus bars.


Last edited by offshore3144; 03-03-2020 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 03-03-2020, 06:36 AM
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When I can't work on the bottom paint removal or it is raining out I decided to recover the leaning post cushions. These were pretty straight forward. I took the old coverings off and used them as templates. I just cut all the stitching and reverse engineered how they were put together. The materials used were Phifertex Standard Vinyl Mesh, Morbern Seabrook White 54" Vinyl Fabric, YKK Continuous Zipper #5 White (Vislon Chain). Cost of $85.00 . I still had some Tenera thread from the past few projects.

First I removed the seat and back cushion from the leaning post. As you can see they had seen better days.


Next step was to remove the stitching to use the parts as templates for the new covers. When taking them apart it was easy to see the steps that were used to assemble the covers.


I get into the tower by stepping on the cushions and going through a zip out in the t top. These are the old cushion protectors. This time they will be made in vinyl.


Next step was to trace all the parts then sew them together. I am still using the ancient Singer sewing machine i bought a few years ago for $100.00 + a new servo motor.


The foam was in excellent shape so it did not need replacing. Here are the finished seat and back rest. I still have to finish the protector for the seat but the backrest is complete.


I used monel staples for assembly to the seat base. Monel staples were used on the original seat.


Since it was raining I finished the seat covers and the seat protectors. First here is the old singer sewing machine I use. It has sewed everything on my boat. 2 weblon tops, all the weather covers, bolsters, curtians etc. A newer machine would be nice but you can do all the work with the right $100.00 machine like this.

The slide for the seat protector installed and the snaps for the underside installed.





and the seat protectors installed.




Last edited by offshore3144; 03-05-2020 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 03-03-2020, 06:37 AM
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On to the inside hatch cover repaint and seals.
I have finished removing all the old gasket material. It was pretty brittle. I used a sharp chisel to cut and scrape them off.
Since I am repainting the underside of the hatches I used 80 grit sanding disks on a orbital sander. I can connect my sander to the shop vac hose which keeps most of the dust to a minimum. I could only remove 3 of the 9 hatch lids so 6 were sanded in place. I will be using 2 part epoxy Tile Clad paint to finish them when I get a few warm days.
Instead of the flat gasket material I will be using 3m D shape seal material with adhesive backing. I used it on my console door and it works way better than the flat taco seal.
March 11 update.
I was going to do some gelcoat but it started to rain. So I decided to paint the inside of the three hatches I removed. I had already sanded them with 80 grit and cleaned them a few weeks ago. I decided to wipe them down again with Interlux 202 then again with acetone. Then I taped off the latch holes in case any paint went into the opening. I plan on 2 coats of White Tileclad HS.

The cleaners used.


The painting materials. First mix of epoxy Tileclad sweating in for 30 minutes.


Latch holes taped up.


You can see the hatches undersides are sanded ,preped, and cleaned.


First coat of paint on after the sweat in time. This is the first time I have used TC. It was rolled on with a 4 inch 3/8" nap roller and brushed into the inside corners. It applied and leveled out very easy.

I will put the second coat on tomorrow.

March 13
I painted the second coat of the TC yesterday afternoon. One draw back I do see is the final cure time is 14 days. Even though it feels cured I believe I will wait to install these three hatch covers and install the foam rubber seals. Hopefully will paint the other six hatches on the boat in the next few days.

March 17 update.
I spent a few hours preping and cleaning the insides of remainder of the hatch covers. I also started to wipe down/clean and sand three storage areas for paint. I pressure washed everything as well. Will post some pics in the next few days.
The cleaning and preping for paint takes a tremendous amount of time as you need to clean and sand everything extremely well.

March 18 update.
Spent a few hours on the undersides of the hatch lids and forward boxes. Believe it or not there was t tremendous amount of styrene wax in the three boxes that were gel coated by brush. I finally was able to remove all the wax where I want to paint. I have allready sanded the underside of the lids and will sand the areas I was not able to sand this afternoon.

Forward center box cleaned and sanded ready for paint.


Two forward side boxes just about ready for new paint. You can see I have sanded the lids pretty extensively.


Will be at it again tomorrow.
March 22 update
don't listen to the weather man!! Was supposed to rain all weekend @^@&# not!! I was able to put a light coat of paint on the lids last week to see what I missed. I went out today and sanded these spots and prepped for the final coats.


Last edited by offshore3144; 03-26-2020 at 05:58 AM.
Old 03-03-2020, 06:38 AM
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Now for the fun part!! Bottom paint removal and gelcoat recovery. When I bought the boat it was already bottom painted. I decided to leave it on and just run the boat till it was really starting to come off. At that time I would repaint it or remove it.
I decided to try and remove it first and if I couldn't restore the gelcoat I would repaint it. I tried a few paint removers and honestly they just made a tremendous mess. Not only that but you still had to scrape off the mess.
After trying the paint removers I decided to try just scraping the bottom paint off with a good paint scraper. To my astonishment the bottom paint came off really easy with just the scraper. It even took off some of the barrier coat. You do have to make sure the scraper is flush as not to gouge the gelcoat. This technique worked very well.
March 1
First step was to remove the boat from the trailer. This is the second time I have done this at the house. All that is needed are four boat jack stands, some blocking for the keel, a 12 ton bottle jack and lots of patience. I have 6 cross members on the trailer so you can only move the trailer out 1-2ft at a time for the first 12 feet or so.


The boat finally off the trailer. As you can see the bottom paint is pretty rough.


After a little experimenting. I chucked the paint strippers in the garbage can and just used a good paint scraper. Once you get a technique and rhythm going you can move along pretty quickly. You can see the white section which the bottom paint was removed down to the gelcoat after sanding. The barrier coat was easily sanded off with a orbital sander and 220grit. I was surprised how easy the barrier coat sanded off after the bottom paint was scraped off. To my surprise the gelcoat was in almost perfect condition. There were some light sanding marks from when they bottom painted the boat but they were not deep. There are some small gaff marks and dock rash that I will repair with gelcoat before polishing. It will only take a few ozs of gelcoat to do all the repairs.


You can see the left side still has barrier coat but no bottom paint after scraping. The right side was wet sanded with 800 after the initial sanding with 220. You can already see a mirror finish on the gelcoat. After the 800 I will polish with one of the 3m polishing compounds to bring the gel to a mirror finish. I will update this as I move along. I am just doing this a little at a time between other projects and weather.


In this pic you can see a section done with just a scraper. You can see the swirl marks from the sanding when the bottom paining was done. The sanding swirls are not deep at all.



Here is the Warner scraper I am using to remove the bottom paint.


I took off a little early today to get ready for the weekend sanding marathon!! Spent 3 hours and finished scraping the bottom paint off. My nephew will be giving me a hand sanding this weekend. He will be wet sanding as I am sanding off the rest of the barrier coat off.
Things should pick up now that the scraping is complete. The bottom of the hull really looks good.









It was a good day today. Weather was perfect. My nephew and his girl showed up and we put in 6 hours of work on the hull. Marshall and my self did the heavy sanding and his girl did some wet sanding on the port side.
The crew!


Lots of work done today. I should have the rest of the barrier coat sanded off and well into the wet sanding tomorrow as the weather is going to be perfect.


Starboard side just about ready for wet sanding.
End of the day pic.


March 8 update. Met my goal for the week. The goal was to have all the sanding done through 800 grit wet sand. Looks like around 15 small gelcoat chips or scrapes to repair. Not to bad. I ordered the color match gelcoat for the bottom from Spectrum last week so hopefully it will be here in a few days. In the mean time I will be removing the boot stripe then start to polish the gelcoat. Hard part is done!

Weapons of choice today.


Wet sanding well underway.


Starting to look like I want it too!



Last edited by offshore3144; 03-08-2020 at 04:36 PM.
Old 03-03-2020, 08:01 PM
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Update above.
Old 03-04-2020, 09:18 AM
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Default Stainless palm bolts

Where did you buy the stainless palm bolts for the gold down buggy top project? I have plastic grips on mine and don’t expect them to last long.

I’m just guessing on what they’re called. Hopefully you’ll know what I’m asking about.

thanks
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Old 03-04-2020, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by cummins84 View Post
Where did you buy the stainless palm bolts for the gold down buggy top project? I have plastic grips on mine and don’t expect them to last long.

I’m just guessing on what they’re called. Hopefully you’ll know what I’m asking about.

thanks
I bought the star knobs on Amazon. I contacted them and they said 316. I clear coated them as a precaution as I wasn't totally convinced they were 316 stainless. I didnt want the plastic star knobs. They do look very good. I did have to cut back the stainless bolt end about 1/4" so they would not stick through the pipework.
Amazon Amazon
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Old 03-05-2020, 05:15 AM
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Nice writeup. Thanks for taking the time to post. These are precisely two of the jobs pending on our old boat - so it's time here too!
Old 03-05-2020, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ChillinTime View Post
Nice writeup. Thanks for taking the time to post. These are precisely two of the jobs pending on our old boat - so it's time here too!
Yea I thought it might help some people out that might want to tackle these projects.
I had a chance to do a hours worth of scraping after work yesterday. I finished scraping the port side and about 1/3rd of the starboard side. You can move pretty fast once you get going. Again don't tilt the scraper. I keep my right hand on the knob that is on top. It evens out the pressure. I pull the scraper down on the upper half and pull up from the keel on the lower half. It is better to make a few lighter passes then to try and take all the paint off with one pull. I left the boot stripe on for scraping and sanding. The plan in the beginning was to replace it when I am done with removing the bottom paint. I will order the new boot stripe from HullStripes.com next week.
The weather looks great for the weekend so I am hoping to have all the 220 and 800 sanding done. That will just leave the polishing which will go pretty past. So far the toughest part is the scraping as you have to get the technique down and not rush. I will post a few pics tonight if it is not raining out.
Old 03-05-2020, 06:45 AM
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Looks Good !

You make it sound easy. Lot of work there.
Hopefully this rain will break tomorrow for you.
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Old 03-05-2020, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 4/0 View Post
Looks Good !

You make it sound easy. Lot of work there.
Hopefully this rain will break tomorrow for you.
Hey Butch I hope all is well with you! As you know I am not a spring chicken!! But I do have great patience and try to be as efficient as I can. Doing the bottom really its not as bad as I thought it would be. Tyvek Suit and a Mask are a Godsend. If not I would have a permanent light green glow!!
Old 03-06-2020, 04:32 PM
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Updates above.
Old 03-07-2020, 05:27 AM
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nice job...
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Old 03-07-2020, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by bladenbullet View Post
nice job...
Thanks! It was a good day today. Weather was perfect. My nephew and his girl showed up and we put in 6 hours of work on the hull. I am still amazed that the gelcoat on this 2001 hull is still so perfectly smooth. There are a few small gel repairs i will do before it goes back on the trailer. Pics above.


Last edited by offshore3144; 03-07-2020 at 03:03 PM.
Old 03-08-2020, 08:07 AM
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Off to Lowes! Vacuum died!
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Old 03-08-2020, 04:39 PM
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Update above on the bottom paint removal.
Old 03-09-2020, 05:23 PM
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March 9 update.
I thought I would start a new section on the gelcoat restoration. I am finally to the point where I am going start on the gelcoat.
Nice that the time change was last weekend, gave me a extra hour to work. Today I removed the boot stripe. This is not the first one I have removed. It is the oldest. It was the original boot stripe that Contender put on the boat.
Over the years it has been polished and waxed no telling how many times. There was no way that stripe was coming off with heat or chemicals. I decided to sand it off.
Here are the tools of the day. My favorite orbital sander the Dewalt DWE6423K. It does the heavy work I use it with 220grit. It has a medium firm pad. You can also hook your shop vac up to it with the small hose setup. The second sander is a Porter Cable palm sander. I works great for wet sanding as the pad is not quite as firm.



First step was to tape off the stripe. I placed the tape approximately 3/16 of a inch above the stripe. This was just a reference for myself so not to sand to high above the stripe. Then with the Dewalt and 220 removed the stripes. It is important to keep the sander almost flat and always moving to keep the surface flat. I like to keep the sander over the stripes while working this way you get a little pre-sanding on the stripe as you move along.


Removing the stripe off the entire boat took about 2 hours and that included wet sanding with 800 afterwards. You will notice the color difference in the protected gelcoat and the sun beaten gel coat.


And the boot stripe fully removed from the boat. I tried to wet sand a little on the faded gelcoat but it is about the same color all the way through. The new boot stripe will be about 1/4" wider than the old stripe.



I decided to go over the whole boat with 1200 before polishing. This will be the next step.

March 11
Yesterday the color match Spectrum gelcoat paste came in yesterday. I opted for the paste because most of the repairs are located on the sides and under the lifting strakes or upside down. I believe this will be a better option for the small repairs. About 3/4 of the repairs are from the prep for the bottom paint when it was done before I bought the boat in 2006.
I went to Lowe's this morning on the way to work and picked up a few cheap plastic scrapers. I tried up the edges on them and rounded the corners on one where fillets will be needed.


Since all the repairs are small I decided to use my Dremel with a small drum sander. I will use this to clean up the repair areas. Most still have some bottom paint in them.


Next thing I did was to do a walk around the boat marking all the spots with a piece of tape that needed attention.



Now I went around and cleaned up each spot to be repaired with the Dremel tool.


AND THEN IT STARTED TO RAIN!!!!

March 13
Finally no rain yesterday and warmer temps. I applied the gelcoat yesterday afternoon. I did over lap the application of the gelcoat quite a bit to allow for feathering with the existing gel coat. I will hand sand the repairs this afternoon if it doesn't rain.
I have never used the Spectrum paste and I am curious to see how it comes out. The match is perfect with the existing gelcoat.



March 14 update
Weather was perfect today. Did some 1200 wet sanding yesterday afternoon. Got up this morning and finished the 1200 wet sanding by noon. Then washed what was sanded.
Finally started the compounding and polishing. I still need to make a few gelcoat repairs but had to order some supplies. I will get to them when it arrives.

Today's materials and buffer. 3m compound/finishing medium, 3m Finesseit machine polish, 2- 3m foam polishing pads one regular and one fine for the polish, one double sided 10" wool pad for compounding. And a variable speed buffer.
I like the 10" pad for compounding as I can cover a lot of real estate faster.


I have a pattern I follow when I compound and polish. I start on the top most section and work my way all the way around the boat, which would be the boot stripe area. Then I drop down to the section below the chines and so on. By the time I get to the very bottom my elbows and my back appreciate laying down on the job!!😅
You can see the boot stripe area compounded.


You can see the progress as I compound working my way top to bottom.


And a pic from under the boat. Relaxing for a few minutes! The bottom is starting to look good.


The bottom might not look like it did when it was new but it is going to look much better. One thing I left out. If you are buying gloves to work on any project get the Venom Steel gloves. They will not tear, a box of 50 is something like 10 dollars. I wear the same pair for at least 3 days in a row. I just put a little baby powder in them after I take them off and they are ready for the next day.


If it doesn't rain I should get through with the compounding and either finish the final polish almost finish it. While polishing I will mark any area I think needs more work.

March 15 update
Okay it was a good day. Took a little longer than I thought to finish up the compounding. The slow down was due to issues with my polisher. I had to remove the motor brushes and blow out the dust build up. Got it working great. When I was done with the compounding I moved the jack stands and blocking so I could sand and compound those unfinished areas.

I thought I would share a few tips with everyone that might help with a project like this.
This is the blocking block I made to go on top of the jack so it won't slide off the jack.


Here it is in place I put a steel plate between the block and 12 ton bottle jack.


Another view. Make sure the grain of the wood of runs perpendicular to the keel. If you run the grain of the blocking parallel with the hull, the blocking could possibly split from the weight of the boat.


Another tip is something you can do while using your buffer. I like to keep a cheap flat head screw driver around when using the buffer. I use it to clear the wool buffing pad . The pad works better when it is not gummed up. I just turn the buffer on and press the screw driver against the pad and it cleans the pad. I believe they sell a tool to do this.


Another tip is to put the compound or polish on the pad and spread it on the area you want to compound and polish . Also start at a slower speed and as you continue buffing turn up the speed a little. As you feel the surface getting smoother you can turn up the speed but not over 1400-1500 RPMs. You don't want to heat up the gelcoat to much.



After moving the blocking and jack stands I completed the compounding . All that is left is to do a few more gelcoat repairs then polish and wax.


March 17 uodate.
I spent a little time with the final polishing yesterday afternoon. I marked the boat with some small strips of tape so I know where to stop and start. It is very hard to tell where you stop the polishing and the compounding starts. The two surfaces look almost identical unless you really look hard.

The tools of the day!



The boat marked with small tape strips to show start and stop points.


As I move along I am marking spots that still need some gelcoat attention. If you look you can barely see a difference between the fine compounding and polished areas.


March 22 update
we were expecting rain all weekend but it never did rain. So this afternoon I opted to do some sanding on the hatch lids and the euro-transom. It was not as bad as thought it would be. Started with 220 and made to 800 dry sanding. I did all I could before I detach the trim tabs. That will be next thing I do before I wet sand and polish the transom area.



March 23rd
I had a few hours this afternoon to finish sanding the euro transom to 1200. Last spots on the bottom will be under the trim tabs. That want take long then I can compound and polish.

What do you learn from this. The most important thing is the work is not hard but it is tedious. Make sure you dont skip a step sanding. You cannot compound or buff out 220 or 400 sanding scratches. 800 somewhat but 1200 makes life so much easier when you start to buff. You will miss some spots and that is ok. I have been over quite a few spots that needed attention. It didnt take long.
Most important tool!!


March 25th
Okay the rain finally is out of here. Work has been busy but did manage a hour or so to do some tight space buffing on the transom. I finish compounding it this afternoon. The last two sections are under the trim tabs which wont take long.





Last edited by offshore3144; 03-29-2020 at 06:16 PM.
Old 03-11-2020, 05:55 AM
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WOW looks amazing! I actually like the no boot stripe.
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Old 03-11-2020, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by jay brooks View Post
WOW looks amazing! I actually like the no boot stripe.
Thanks Jay. I like it too but the color change between the faded and protected gelgoat isn't sharp. I am going to buff the entire boat then make a decision. I Should have the 1200 grit sanding and polishing done by the end of the weekend. Gelcoat came in yesterday and I am going to try and do the few repairs this afternoon since it will be 70 degrees.
Old 03-11-2020, 09:55 AM
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Boat looks great!! If you replace the boot stripe are you going paint and if so what are you going to use...?
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