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Rolled (but not tipped) paint job, any way to fix?

Old 10-19-2019, 05:36 PM
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Default Rolled (but not tipped) paint job, any way to fix?

Looking at the boat, it checks out mechanically and is sound. Hull sides were rolled, but not tipped at all. It left bubbles and runs everywhere, it is rough to the touch and visually. This was done with white paint over white gelcoat. I am not sure why, or what was the condition of the gelcoat underneath.

Is it possible to sand back down and have it look presentable? I will try to put up some pics

TIA
Old 10-19-2019, 06:16 PM
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its a big job and you dont know whats underneath. Do you know what it was painted with? If its a good deal and your willing to do the work go for it. Id say 500-1000 for materials if you fix it yourself and already have the tools to do so. I repainted my last mako for about that and it came out looking sprayed but it was rolled on not tipped interlux perfection. Dont underestimate the amount of prep work you are in for, you get out what you put in. What size boat?
Old 10-19-2019, 06:36 PM
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Waterline up or the whole exterior? Waterline up isn't that big a job IMO.

Sand, clean, tape, spray, go fishing.

Wouldnt stop me if everything else checked out.
Old 10-19-2019, 06:48 PM
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26ft catamaran, waterline up, has bottom paint

Thank guys
Old 10-19-2019, 08:24 PM
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If you don't know what what used you could be there forever trying to wet sand and buff. I would sand with D.A. using#600on a foam interface the area flat, get some paint, and respray. It's your quickest way to get back on the water if you want to take care of it now.

Old 10-19-2019, 10:52 PM
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I doubt that you will be able to salvage that paint job with sandpaper, time to break out the sander and start over.
Would be a big help if you knew what kind of paint was used, but you’ll likely be taking it all off anyway, as most shitty paint jobs start with poor prep...
Old 10-21-2019, 10:05 AM
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my gut reaction is a very bad paint job is hiding an even worse surface under neath it
Old 10-23-2019, 12:30 PM
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Sandpaper isn't that expensive. I'd invest in a rather decent random orbital sander and plan to spend at least the whole day. Take it back until the roughness is
gone. You could get extremely lucky and the PO applied loads of paint. More than likely, you'll get down to the gelcoat rather quick and at least you'll be able to start
over the correct way. I, for one, would use 220 at the very least, and maybe 120 since my goal was to remove it all.
Old 10-23-2019, 03:09 PM
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Yea correct me if Im wrong but rule of thumb is two part paint can take two part or one part on top. 1 part paint can only take one part paints on top. I would just get to gel coat and re apply if the gel coat isnt salvageable. Knowing what was used could save some sanding in that you dont have to get it completely off to avoid adherence issues.
Old 10-23-2019, 03:44 PM
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Lol spend the whole day? A shit paint job can take days to sand through, holding sanders on a vertical surface for hours can and will beat your ass. Don't underestimate the amount of labor you could be in for if you need to sand through thick poorly applied paint down to gelcoat.
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Old 10-26-2019, 07:01 PM
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White shouldn't have needed tipping . Light colors are so thin it's the dark colors that need tipped . Bigger problem is what prep and prime did they do ?
If just topcoat needs sand and painted that's a weekend deal
Old 10-28-2019, 06:46 AM
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You need to get to a flat surface,and then apply another finish coat or two.You don't need to sand the paint all off,just get the high spots knocked down.Use a random orbital with 180-220 grit.The new sanding mesh discs on a 5" sander will make life easier.

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