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Need help with thru hulls.

Old 07-09-2019, 12:06 PM
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Default Need help with thru hulls.

Hi guys.

I had a small seep in one of my water pickups this weekend. It looks like Trophy used some sort of butyl based plumbers putty on my 2902. It did not look like 4200/ 5200. In any case, I identified the issue and I have decided to re-bed all three pickups in that location. The first high speed pickup was dented, so it had taken an impact at some time and I am sure that led to the leak. The fitting is fine and I was able to reshape it. The issue I have run into is that due to the shape of the hull, the fittings are on the inside of a curve.

There were no fairings used, but a maximum of about 3/8" of bedding at the low points were in taking up the void.

So, should I make a small fairing block to match the radius of the hull or just put it back together the way it was and not worry about it? obviously, this boat and the others like it didn't suffer a huge issue with water intrusion that I can tell.

I will try to get some pics taken to illustrate the point I am trying to make with the shape. Most hulls are rarely perfectly flat, this just looks odd to me and I am probably overthinking it.

Thanks for any advice that you may have.

Dave
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Old 07-09-2019, 12:32 PM
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I would make backing blocks for the thru hulls. Use 5200 or life calk to bed. Both will kick underwater.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:08 PM
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I assume you mean a block between the hull and the through hull? I do have backing blocks inside the boat.

Dave
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by fishin2deep4u View Post
I assume you mean a block between the hull and the through hull? I do have backing blocks inside the boat.

Dave
Yes I did. I would make the block you describe, but use epoxy thickened cabosil.
1. Sand Bottom of boat where fitting will sit so it is clean and smooth
2. Apply min wax furniture wax to the face of the fitting and the hull.
3. Apply enough epoxy mixture to the fitting and the hull.
4. Install wipe away all excess epoxy
5. let kick
6. remove fitting and epoxy wedge.
7. Clean all surfaces with solvent to remove all wax.
8. Apply 5200, Life Calk to all surfaces and reinstall thru hull.

Last edited by TsunamiTsling; 07-09-2019 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:21 PM
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I have some glass I layed up for another project that would be pretty easy to shape. I could then bond it directly to the hull or just bed it in as well. Obviously, more work to do. It would be more like a tapered washer than a fairing.

Dave
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Last edited by fishin2deep4u; 07-09-2019 at 02:06 PM. Reason: I can't speel.
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Old 07-12-2019, 01:21 PM
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I ended up using a a bit of aluminum bronze and TIG brazing it to the center of the tube. Turned it into a washer that sat flush with the hull. I also broke the edges of the scoop to allow for a recessed mounting point and to ease the sharp edge along the hull. Used the same bronze screws and a generous helping of 4200. Hopefully, this will fix the problem.

For next season, I will replace the valves with proper flanged seacocks or seacock adapters. I will have to make a spacer under the seacock as the position of the thru hull scoop is fixed, but this should be pretty easy to do. I'll just use a flange off another seacock and machine it to allow for correct positioning.

planning on splashing again tomorrow and get back on the bite.

Dave
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:54 PM
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Wow... that is some REALLY poor boat building!

Butyl sealing tape is a great product for above water, but it has no place on thru-hulls. And installing with a 3/8" gap instead of using a fairing? Geez. That's so far from the right way to do it it's practically malpractice. Count your blessings that this failed in a slow drip instead of a catastrophic gusher.
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by thefishingsailor View Post
Wow... that is some REALLY poor boat building!

Butyl sealing tape is a great product for above water, but it has no place on thru-hulls. And installing with a 3/8" gap instead of using a fairing? Geez. That's so far from the right way to do it it's practically malpractice. Count your blessings that this failed in a slow drip instead of a catastrophic gusher.
I can't for certain what product was used. But it was easily removed and there was no prep to any fiberglass surface. I am confident it's sealed up nicely now. I think the real fix is a long fairing or pocketing the thru hulls in.

Dave
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