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Lewmar Windlass

Old 03-17-2019, 08:40 AM
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Default Lewmar Windlass

My Lewmar windlass isn't working. This has happened before and the circuit breaker had switched so flipping it back fixed it. Not this time. I'm also not detecting any voltage across the leads in the back. So I'm thinking that the circuit breaker is bad. Do you agree? If so do I need to replace it with the exact same part? Any suggestions for other replacements?

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Old 03-17-2019, 09:57 AM
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a multimeter will help you diagnose

you dont need to replace with the same exact part but one with equal specs should suffice
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:57 AM
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Pressing that red button should trip it...and the yellow flag will jump out at the bottom...reset the flag and trip it again...then test your voltage. Remeber, only 12V + is passing thru the breaker. You will need a nearby ground source...preferably the lead that runs up to the Lewmar...If you have voltage read the following:

Are you reading across the connections at the relay? Is the relay mounted forward or in the console? The large red and black that go to the relay should be checked first and then make sure once the relay is energized the voltage is passing thru to the Lewmar..

There are several stages involved to get power to the Lewmar

Also, my Lewmar ProFish 700 came with a 50 amp breaker...25 seems a little light
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:51 AM
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Dont put a larger breaker in. Breakers are selected according to wire gauge. Too much current through a wire can cause an electrical fire.
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Old 03-17-2019, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptnJuff View Post
Dont put a larger breaker in. Breakers are selected according to wire gauge. Too much current through a wire can cause an electrical fire.
Brilliant, Captain....that tells they guy just what he needs to know.

Since Lewmar recommends nothing less than #10 gauge wire, explain why he has a 25 amp breaker...Is his total run 10 feet or less..??

I'm sure his system has operated fine for a while just looking at the age of the devices.....but i question the size of the breaker and wonder if it is the right size.
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Old 03-17-2019, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by triumphrick View Post
Brilliant, Captain....that tells they guy just what he needs to know.

Since Lewmar recommends nothing less than #10 gauge wire, explain why he has a 25 amp breaker...Is his total run 10 feet or less..??

I'm sure his system has operated fine for a while just looking at the age of the devices.....but i question the size of the breaker and wonder if it is the right size.
Lets follow your logic here for a minute. You think Lewmar recommends a 50 amp breaker. But, a 25 amp was used. Let me point out that OP didnt say which model lewmar windlass he has. Assuming arguendo that you are correct, why would you assume the correct wire gauge was used if the wrong breaker size was used? Op didnt say. You dont know. But you have no problem telling him to double the breaker size.

Does this seem like good advice to you? Did you advise OP to check the wire gauge or of any of the dangers of using the incorrect breaker size? No, you didnt. And if the circuit worked fine before, for awhile, why would the fault be an incorrect breaker size?

I didnt call you out specifically, but you want to attack me. I didnt give OP specific advice on diagnosing and solving the problem because I am not a marine electrician. I didnt want to give him bad advice, like you did. But when I see someone recommend something unsafe, I will advise against it.
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Last edited by CaptnJuff; 03-17-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptnJuff View Post
. But you have no problem telling him to double the breaker size.
Hey, Captain....find where I told him that...go ahead...I've read m reply twice...mebbe three times. You have said that twice...I havent.

The guy needs help and you're on here pontificating...I have no need to attack someone who doesnt seem to have a clue..
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:55 PM
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Calm down gentlemen. You're are both right and your ideas are both sensible.
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by triumphrick View Post
Pressing that red button should trip it...and the yellow flag will jump out at the bottom...reset the flag and trip it again...then test your voltage. Remeber, only 12V + is passing thru the breaker. You will need a nearby ground source...preferably the lead that runs up to the Lewmar...If you have voltage read the following:

Are you reading across the connections at the relay? Is the relay mounted forward or in the console? The large red and black that go to the relay should be checked first and then make sure once the relay is energized the voltage is passing thru to the Lewmar..

There are several stages involved to get power to the Lewmar

Also, my Lewmar ProFish 700 came with a 50 amp breaker...25 seems a little light
always very impressed with the information you offer, no smart ass remarks, just good plain old sound responses, thankyou!
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by triumphrick View Post
Pressing that red button should trip it...and the yellow flag will jump out at the bottom...reset the flag and trip it again...then test your voltage. Remeber, only 12V + is passing thru the breaker. You will need a nearby ground source...preferably the lead that runs up to the Lewmar...If you have voltage read the following:

Are you reading across the connections at the relay? Is the relay mounted forward or in the console? The large red and black that go to the relay should be checked first and then make sure once the relay is energized the voltage is passing thru to the Lewmar..

There are several stages involved to get power to the Lewmar

Also, my Lewmar ProFish 700 came with a 50 amp breaker...25 seems a little light
I wasn't checking the voltage properly the other day, thanks for the advice in your reply. Turns out the breaker seems to be working fine. Measuring 12V when closed and 0 when tripped. I also checked the continuity on the switch (to go up or down) and it seems to be good too. Although it only reads 6v when switched. Maybe that's normal I'm not sure. You mentioned the solenoid (relay) and I hate to say it but I can't find it. The wires from the switch go into a wire hole in the console. I also don't see it under the windlass unit itself (where the anchor rode sits). So that's where I'm stuck now. Where are the solenoids typically installed? This is a proline 23' center console.



I attached a pic of what I'm looking for.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:34 PM
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That particular windlass can be installed with or without the solenoid box if you use the high rated Lewmar toggle switch. That's the only model in the line that you can do that with. 25 Amp breaker is correct. If you don't use the solenoid you cant have a second station switch or foot switches at the bow. Don't up the breaker size, find the problem and correct.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pdabill View Post
I wasn't checking the voltage properly the other day, thanks for the advice in your reply. Turns out the breaker seems to be working fine. Measuring 12V when closed and 0 when tripped. I also checked the continuity on the switch (to go up or down) and it seems to be good too. Although it only reads 6v when switched. Maybe that's normal I'm not sure. You mentioned the solenoid (relay) and I hate to say it but I can't find it. The wires from the switch go into a wire hole in the console. I also don't see it under the windlass unit itself (where the anchor rode sits). So that's where I'm stuck now. Where are the solenoids typically installed? This is a proline 23' center console.

I attached a pic of what I'm looking for.
Nothing should read 6v when switched! It should either be 12v across the switch when it's open or 0 when it's closed. If it's really reading 6, I suspect you have a bad switch.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:59 PM
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I suspect you don't have it.
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:00 PM
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The solenoid should be right under the windlass where it attaches to the bow (at least mine was).
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:01 PM
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Jump out the switch and see if it operates properly, then you know its the switch
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:10 PM
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if you have this switch then there is no controller/solenoid.
https://www.hodgesmarine.com/Lewmar-...lew0052519.htm
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Old 03-20-2019, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Backcove26 View Post
Jump out the switch and see if it operates properly, then you know its the switch
Can you explain how to jump out the switch? Here is a pic of the back of it.



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Old 03-20-2019, 05:01 AM
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Flip breaker off. Take the 2 top wires in your photo and combine. Take the 2 bottom wires in your photo and combine. Turn breaker on and the motor should run. If it does, turn off with breaker and buy a new switch. Photo about is for reference so you can see how the whole system is set up.
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:38 AM
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Hmmm. Looks to me like the top two wires would be E and B. That would be a dead short of the battery.
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Old 03-20-2019, 05:43 AM
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Obviously. As I stated "Take the 2 top wires in your photo", not my photo. My photo is for reference that there's no control box.
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