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How did you deal with gap under TM quick release plate

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  • 1 Post By Bailey Boat
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How did you deal with gap under TM quick release plate

Old 03-12-2019, 10:18 AM
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Default How did you deal with gap under TM quick release plate

I'm getting ready to mount a Minn Kota Terrova with an RTA-54 heavy duty QR plate and the area under the plate is curved so two opposite corners have a gap of 1/8 to 3/16". I've googled and searched here for every term you can think of and can't find anywhere that anyone has explained what they've done successfully. I though about grinding the bottom away until it fits the curve. I've seen pictures of washers underneath but then there is no contact. What works?

Last edited by VaporTrail1; 03-13-2019 at 05:37 AM.
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:07 PM
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If it were me...... I'd use a piece of 3/4" Starboard and contour the bottom to fit the boats contours and leave the top flat to mount the QR plate......
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Old 03-12-2019, 12:22 PM
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1/2 starboard beveled 1/2 aluminum 1/2 starboard beveled
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:01 AM
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Can you provide pictures? Sounds like some sanding/grinding is in your future.
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:28 AM
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:30 AM
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It’s not much but it needs to be dealt with. This is the large outside plate but the puck looks the same. If I tightened it down with four bolts right now it would pull the holes out of alignment and the stainless rods wouldn’t go through
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:39 AM
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Oh man that's frustrating.
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Old 03-13-2019, 05:54 AM
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They used hard washers to slightly raise the puck and snugged tight to not distort the puck with nylocs. It works just fine however they used the wrong mount for my motor. I will have to redo this mount the same way they have done it.


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Old 03-13-2019, 06:12 AM
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I think I would use softish rubber spacers, personally.

Bumpers on this page
https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber

Or the leveling washers here
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bailey Boat View Post
If it were me...... I'd use a piece of 3/4" Starboard and contour the bottom to fit the boats contours and leave the top flat to mount the QR plate......
This is exactly what my boat has done, it fits perfectly and tight.
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Old 03-13-2019, 06:17 AM
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I did not really know how to exactly describe the material by typing. They are very firm but they do flex and squash down once tightened. On my Sterling someone used hard plastic washers and it wore the imprint of the washer into the gel coat.
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Old 03-13-2019, 02:21 PM
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Would it distort the puck if its tightened down all the way as is? If not just use some white caulking like 4200 to fill the gap and hide it.
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Old 03-13-2019, 03:14 PM
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scribe the base

sand it to the scribe line

done and done
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:10 PM
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Ditch the QR plate. The trolling motor is too useful to ever come off the boat. Albany County Fastners sells ss torx security screws to replace the side panel and mounting bolts
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:12 PM
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Sorry, not an option for me
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Old 03-13-2019, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bigtiny View Post
Ditch the QR plate. The trolling motor is too useful to ever come off the boat. Albany County Fastners sells ss torx security screws to replace the side panel and mounting bolts
Pretty much everyone I know takes theirs off when covering/storing their boat. IMO there's no good reason NOT to use the quick release.
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rbhankins001 View Post
scribe the base sand it to the scribe line done and done
I don't understand your suggestion. How do you mark it so you know exactly how much to sand and where?
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:55 PM
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I used an aluminum piece under mine to through bolt it.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dove72 View Post
I don't understand your suggestion. How do you mark it so you know exactly how much to sand and where?
What you do is get the plate where it goes then find the largest gap to deal with. Find a spacer that high and hold it exactly vertical. Work your way around the whole plate marking the top of the spacer you have and it will follow the contour you need grind out. If you use a scribe it will be more accurate than a marker. The more care you are the better it will turn out. This would only work if you have a small gap or you would take too much away. I’d say a 1/4” or less.
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:06 PM
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I haven’t decided if I’m going to do this or use washers. To do it right you take the boat out and put a degree level on the deck while floating. When you get it back on the trailer at home you can set the same pitch with the trailer jack and then adjust the QR plate to get the motor shaft plumbed vertical. A lot of people don’t do this and the motor is pointing a weird direction
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