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Steering wheel won't budge

Old 02-11-2019, 01:16 PM
  #21  
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Had to beat mine off the old helm to remove it. I yanked yard on the wheel at the same moment my buddy hit it with a heavy hammer. He is a rigger and said usually he can do it himself but mine was stuck BAD. It eventually came off, but the needle fell of the tachometer in the process
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Old 02-11-2019, 01:16 PM
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Mine would not come off with a puller. I found this tip somewhere when I was trying to remove mine. Thread the nut back on a few threads. Grab the wheel at 9 and 3 and rock it back and forth. You're going to want the nut on so you don't fall when the wheel pops loose.
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:34 PM
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Mapp gas to the aluminum, not the shaft and the use of impact on the puller; is my vote.

forget the fluids. It is tight fit not a corroded thread.
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:40 PM
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Just hit it with you purse, it’ll come off then.
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:46 PM
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Back the nut off, leaving it flush with the end of the shaft. Wedge 3 or 4 screwdrivers carefully between the wheel and helm, make them very tight. Use a hammer, hit the shaft squarely, the wheel will pop off.
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Old 02-11-2019, 03:55 PM
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The cold is far safer than heat. Someone just overdid it bigtime when was apart last. The trick is to hit it sharply not sledge

if using any heat it has to be only on the wheel not the helm.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Sea-r-cy View Post
Back the nut off, leaving it flush with the end of the shaft. Wedge 3 or 4 screwdrivers carefully between the wheel and helm, make them very tight. Use a hammer, hit the shaft squarely, the wheel will pop off.
That would be really cruel to a hydraulic helm.
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:32 PM
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You're doing the right thing. Don't bend or break stuff by beating it with a hammer - although a little jolt once in a while can help.

Leave your puller in place for a few days. Let the pressure work. I've done this and found it had come apart overnight. If you're not in a hurry, tighten it a little each day and just let it sit.

If that fails, I would go heat next. You want to heat wheel hub and not the threaded post. A temp increase of 300ºF will increase the diameter by about 4 thousands of an inch. Not much but maybe enough if you are applying pressure with your puller.

If that fails, cut a slot in the hub between one of the spokes and to the tapered post in the center. I've drilled out the hub very close to the center post before and cut into my drilled hole.
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Old 02-11-2019, 05:07 PM
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Maybe you can find some hard plastic wedges. Tighten the puller and tap the wedges in. Just a thought
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Old 02-11-2019, 05:12 PM
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Use a hydraulic ram in place of the puller.
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Old 02-11-2019, 05:27 PM
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It looks as though you have been heating the hub and the shaft. You need to expand the wheel hub to get it to come off. To do this you start from the outside and work in. Heat the spokes of the cast piece first and then move into the hub area. You need to work quickly moving the torch around as you go. There should be very little discoloring of the part if you are doing this right. You want to avoid heating the shaft. Leave the puller on it tight and heat it. You do not need any fluids. Once the hub heats up it will pop
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Old 02-11-2019, 07:15 PM
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* Update * finally got it off., after my last post went out and took another turn on the puller ( surprised it had anything left after my last attempt ) and gave the top of the puller a good whack and off she came! Surprisingly the shaft was not corroded, this must of been tightened by Godzilla at the factory. Thank you all for the advice. PS: grease WILL be applied before setting wheel in place.
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Old 02-12-2019, 01:30 AM
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Lot of people don't know that you whack the end of the puller once everything is up tight. Whacking the wheel or anything else usually won't work, but a heavy smack on the end of the puller usually will
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Old 02-12-2019, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Sea-r-cy View Post
Back the nut off, leaving it flush with the end of the shaft. Wedge 3 or 4 screwdrivers carefully between the wheel and helm, make them very tight. Use a hammer, hit the shaft squarely, the wheel will pop off.
I use wood window install shims for this. They don't mar anything. Works every time.
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:56 AM
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Default Do not pound

Once again, the entire helm, if seastar, is aluminum, and wheel shaft connects to bearings, pounding is not advised. The freeze off spray was developed for just such problems, it causes the metal to contract, expand and thus move to some extent, allowing the lube to creep between the two surfaces. For the $7 it will set you back worth a try.
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Old 02-12-2019, 11:30 AM
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The wheel may be “cockeyed” on the tapered shaft. Last time I had this problem I inserted a pry bar behind the wheel hub using an appropriate size wooden block against the console as a fulcrum. I continually rapped the pry bar end with a hammer while working around the wheel in the same pattern you would tighten bolts; hit one side, then opposite side, move an inch or two then repeat. It took maybe 20-30 raps with the hammer and repeated applications of WD40 between hits but the wheel popped off.
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:12 PM
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The problem with any sort of prying or wedging is that you're now pulling against stuff inside the steering gear. Using a bearing or steering wheel puller puts pressure against the wheel hub and the tapered center post. Nothing in the steering gear gets pulled on and you don't break anything. If you drive wedges under the steering wheel, you can break stuff.
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Old 02-12-2019, 04:27 PM
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Wheel puller and a air hammer will get that moving. Place air hammer on piece after your wheel puller is tight. Heat might help if you do it right but the hammer should get things moving.
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Old 02-12-2019, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by maintenanceguy View Post
The problem with any sort of prying or wedging is that you're now pulling against stuff inside the steering gear. Using a bearing or steering wheel puller puts pressure against the wheel hub and the tapered center post. Nothing in the steering gear gets pulled on and you don't break anything. If you drive wedges under the steering wheel, you can break stuff.

It be interesting to know how long-lived any of these helms are after the abuse that's been recommended in this thread. What you could get away with with an old cable steering head or the old Dodge pickup truck is quite different then working on a aluminum bodied, light duty, hydraulic pump.
I'll guarantee you that I wouldn't subject my steering to any more abuse than what's been recommended by the maintenance guy.
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Old 02-14-2019, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mikee332 View Post
* Update * finally got it off., after my last post went out and took another turn on the puller ( surprised it had anything left after my last attempt ) and gave the top of the puller a good whack and off she came! Surprisingly the shaft was not corroded, this must of been tightened by Godzilla at the factory. Thank you all for the advice. PS: grease WILL be applied before setting wheel in place.
I coated mine with a product called permatex anti-seize. It looked like a toxic silver paste. The wheel has been off since and it worked great.
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