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wood varnish

Old 12-17-2018, 10:38 AM
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Default wood varnish

Just bought another boat and need to sand and varnish a little. This is wood that is in the cockpit area, and uncovered. What do y'all use?
Old 12-17-2018, 10:47 AM
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Petitt 1015 Captains varnish is what I use. ............ But I'm old school and don't want a mess to have to get though if I need to strip to bare wood and start over.

I have a little bit of brightwork.

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Old 12-17-2018, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post
Petitt 1015 Captains varnish is what I use. ............ But I'm old school and don't want a mess to have to get though if I need to strip to bare wood and start over.

I have a little bit of brightwork.

Purdy.
Those Khalenburgs I see?
I mix Captains and Schooners, doesn't flatten as bad and as quickly. Captains when it starts to craze you have about a week to get on it, the addition of Schooners helps that last bit, without loosing what the Captains brings to the table.
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Old 12-17-2018, 06:12 PM
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Kahlenburgs?,...... No, just the original two trumpet (electric). They do actually sound pretty good.

Last edited by NedLloyd; 12-18-2018 at 05:36 AM.
Old 12-17-2018, 06:33 PM
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I am about to have a bunch of exterior varnish work redone.

Captains chair, fighting chair, cabinet doors a helm front and under helm.

8 years ago, I had it all done with West System epoxy - 1 coat awl grip clear and 1 coat Awlcraft 200.

It all failed miserably almost immediately at the corners. It still looked mostly great excepts for the failure at the corners which has now become unbearable.

I can't imagine choosing to epoxy again after such a poor result the first time.

My technician is currently stripping the fighting chair. I was thinking of lots and lots of coats of Epiphanes. I am willing to try another product, however.

My goal is to have a finish that can be touched up every year or two as necessary.
Old 12-17-2018, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ormond Bert54 View Post
I am about to have a bunch of exterior varnish work redone.

Captains chair, fighting chair, cabinet doors a helm front and under helm.

8 years ago, I had it all done with West System epoxy - 1 coat awl grip clear and 1 coat Awlcraft 200.

It all failed miserably almost immediately at the corners. It still looked mostly great excepts for the failure at the corners which has now become unbearable.

I can't imagine choosing to epoxy again after such a poor result the first time.

My technician is currently stripping the fighting chair. I was thinking of lots and lots of coats of Epiphanes. I am willing to try another product, however.

My goal is to have a finish that can be touched up every year or two as necessary.
Awlwood by awlgrip. Hands down. Epoxy is ok, but it suffers from shrinking. Awlgrip is better, but finishing with awlcraft 2000 is a waste of all the work leading up to it. It's an easy application but the least durable of the three.

Failure on corners and edges is common because the are the hardest areas to build thickness and the easiest to sand that thickness off when doing build coats.

Awlwood primer and clear gloss is the best combination I have seen as far as ease of application, and longevity. It's best performance will be seen if you start from bare wood. However you can use just the awlwood ma clear over an existing finish if it isn't completely degraded.

It's a product that is flexible (in the sense it can withstand the changes wood goes through when expanding due to environmental changes) it also will resist UV degradation better than a traditional varnish.

But... if you got 8 years of service with only the edges giving you problems maybe I should re-think!

A lot of us will do 15+ coats of a polyurethane clear like awlgrip over an epoxy job to keep the epoxy underneath from giving up the ghost.
Old 12-18-2018, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post
Kahlenburgs?,...... No, just the original two trumpet (electric). They do actually sound pretty good.
Kahlenburgs, the ONLY (air) boat horn.



Originally Posted by Ormond Bert54 View Post
I am about to have a bunch of exterior varnish work redone.

Captains chair, fighting chair, cabinet doors a helm front and under helm.

8 years ago, I had it all done with West System epoxy - 1 coat awl grip clear and 1 coat Awlcraft 200.

It all failed miserably almost immediately at the corners. It still looked mostly great excepts for the failure at the corners which has now become unbearable.

I can't imagine choosing to epoxy again after such a poor result the first time.

My technician is currently stripping the fighting chair. I was thinking of lots and lots of coats of Epiphanes. I am willing to try another product, however.

My goal is to have a finish that can be touched up every year or two as necessary.
Varnish has been around forever.
It's modern replacements, not so much. There is give and take for each. Longevity, color, age, depth.
A piece of teak wood done with traditional spar varnish will age and mature with time, get a bit darker, deeper, a piece of teak wood done with epoxy or poly will lighten and bleach out.
The secret to all of it is coats, you can't cheat on the coats, no matter what anyone says. It all looks fine out of the box and for the first year, it's 5-10 years down the road where it counts.
Have them built up with a good spar varnish of your choice, many, many coats, one (1) each day, scratch and coat, scratch and coat. Probably 20+ coats, or until ALL the grain is filled.
Apply two (2) coats of Awlbrite. It's good for two years in Florida unprotected in the sun. If it gets nicked, fix it ASAP. Two years, two more coats.
I would not do rocket launchers or any piece of wood with a Poly or Epoxy, to hard to fix when it gets nicked.
Old 12-18-2018, 07:33 AM
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My humble opinion is to stick with a varnish system.That is let's say Pettit sealer and varnish.The Captains 1015 is probably the highest gloss and UV resistant varnish out there,it dosen't build quite as quick as some ot the other formulas,but it's probably your best choice.Varnish results are ALWAYS proportional to prep,a quick "scuff and buff" will not last as long as a proper job from bare wood.The nice thing is that once you have the right base,maintenance is fairly easy.You need to scuff between coats,but save the final wet or dry leveling sanding for just before the final coat or two.Varnish can be compounded after fully curing,just like automotive clear coat (that's how they get the show quality varnish jobs at the boat shows).
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Old 12-18-2018, 09:12 AM
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I just redid all the mahogany in my 1972 13' Boston Whaler with Captains 1015. Looks great!
Old 12-18-2018, 01:11 PM
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I use Armada. Holds up very well with a scuff in the spring and a couple coats. That assumes you apply correctly to begin with...
Old 12-20-2018, 04:59 PM
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I use Sikkens Cetol Marine Natural Teak protective translucent wood finish. Very easy product to use and the protection provided is off the scale.

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