Go Back  The Hull Truth - Boating and Fishing Forum > BOATING FORUMS > The Boating Forum
Reload this Page >

1981 Boston Whaler 13' Non skid replacement

Notices
Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By Time Machine
  • 1 Post By Avid 24

1981 Boston Whaler 13' Non skid replacement

Old 11-13-2018, 08:56 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default 1981 Boston Whaler 13' Non skid replacement

I believe that the non skid on my 81 BW13' was laid up as a seperate panel then glued (resin) down to the fiberglass deck. Can someone confirm this? I ask because the non skid is raised up slightly from rest of smooth gel coat on the deck. I'm considering completely sanding off the non skid to the glass and laying up a full size non skid panel including two layers of 1.5 oz matt glass and then gel coat non skid pattern over that and then glueing(resin) it back down to the comletely sanded down deck and then finsish all the smooth gel coat from the non skid all the way up and over the side rails. My non skid has spider cracks from sun exposure all over the non skid except under seat where the sun was blocked. I know for sure water weaps under these spider cracks after the boat drys out water is visible in all these cracks. I also plan on cutting out a small area around and just forward of the drain area and replacing with expanding foam and new glass. This repair is one more reason i want to replace entire non skid Whew that was a lot to get out
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 09:23 AM
  #2  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,807
Default

Here is a little video

Also, you may want to think about pulling the metal drain tubes out and letting the foam dry. The idea that these are sealed with an O ring is wishful thinking. For my boat, I made the drain tubes with pvc conduit, which I heated up and reamed out to 1 inch ID with a wooden dowel that I sharpened like a big pencil.

By expanding foam, you mean 4lb two part polyurethane foam, right? Not that stuff you squirt out of a can, I hope.
Jimmytodd likes this.
Time Machine is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 09:43 AM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default

I actually already pulled both drain tubes ,The bottom one was completely shot which is where some water entered as well as the screw holes underneath gas tank hold downs on top of that some water was left standing in boat for a long time. That said no one used or stepped around on the deck after water intrusion so there isnt the mushy deck like i have seen just one small area where it seems the glass seperated from the foam underneath
I also watched this boatworks video......this is where i surmised the non skid was laid up on fiberglass before glueing to the deck originally. Yes the two part expanding foam. I watched the Boatworks guy rebuild a rudder with this expanding foam it will bond to a clean surface and you can shape it before glassing over ,the only full proof way to fix a damage or mushhy coresection
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 10:00 AM
  #4  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,807
Default

If it were my boat, and you are redoing the floor anyway, I would use your fein tool to cut out a big section of floor, and dig out as much wet foam as you can. Then let it dry while opened up like that. Preferably with the nose high to develop a little pressure.

That said, I would also skip the molded nonskid, and add some sort of grit to the gelcoat. Of course, you need to decide how much time and money is enough. I am just about done fixing up an old tapped out whaler, and I will never do it again. Too much time.
Time Machine is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 10:06 AM
  #5  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lindenhurst, New York
Posts: 7,743
Default

put a photo up please
Raybo Marine NY is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 11:39 AM
  #6  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default Canít post photos until I have ten posts? Wierd

Originally Posted by Raybo Marine NY View Post
put a photo up please
Sorry canít post photos till I have posted ten times? Thatís what it said when I tried to post photos
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 11:44 AM
  #7  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,232
Default

Just my opinion but unless you are doing a full original restoration I would just sand it down, figure out what surface you want and then go from there.

I did a 1986 15' BW a few years ago and we resurfaced the non skid areas using Pettit EZ Deck. It was simple to put down, held up great with my kids and dog beating the hell out of it. Worst case you end up with a spot that needs repair or something you just get a can of the stuff and resurface it.
Jimmytodd likes this.
Avid 24 is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 12:00 PM
  #8  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,807
Default

Originally Posted by Jimmytodd View Post

Sorry canít post photos till I have posted ten times? Thatís what it said when I tried to post photos
make a few more posts.
Time Machine is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 12:19 PM
  #9  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lindenhurst, New York
Posts: 7,743
Default

they didnt put the non-skid like that, but with the gutter around the inside of the boat it can appear that way

it would be very unusual that at some point in time your non-skid was repaired or replaced that way, very unusual

to duplicate it is time consuming and quite expensive, the flex mold alone will run you close to if not over $1000 and you still need the tape, gelcoat, etc.
its also not for the novice regardless of how many videos you watch all it takes is one air pocket in the process and you will be trying to spot repair it which is even more difficult then an entire panel
Raybo Marine NY is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 12:33 PM
  #10  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default

thanks raybo I would be curious to know why the non skid is raised up like an eith inch almost because the actual non skid pattern isnt more than a 16th deep ,there had to be some structurte below that also i have 400 dollars total into purchasing the hull its definately not the ugliest whaler ive seen structurally it pretty sound
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-13-2018, 12:37 PM
  #11  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default

thanks everyone for weighing in
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-14-2018, 10:04 AM
  #12  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lindenhurst, New York
Posts: 7,743
Default

Originally Posted by Jimmytodd View Post
thanks raybo I would be curious to know why the non skid is raised up like an eith inch almost because the actual non skid pattern isnt more than a 16th deep ,there had to be some structurte below that also i have 400 dollars total into purchasing the hull its definately not the ugliest whaler ive seen structurally it pretty sound
its like that on new ones as well, it was never totally flat to the deck
Ill see if I can get a picture of something later to show you.
Raybo Marine NY is offline  
Old 11-14-2018, 10:34 AM
  #13  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,807
Default

My guess is that it's part of the process of making a plug- at some point, way back in the 1970's there might have been some artisans that came up with the shape of this, first with a flat deck, and then they sectioned off part of the deck with the predecessor of duct tape, rolled on another layer of gelcoat, and pressed the flexible mold into it. Then the plug formed the mold, which formed the boat. This would have left the gelcoat raised up.

That preformed gelcoat nonskid mold may be pretty expensive to repair one boat, but to make a plug to make thousands of boats would make the economics of it OK.
Time Machine is offline  
Old 11-14-2018, 12:09 PM
  #14  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default Hereís a few photos



Original hull number


The area drawn on paper is where some wAter has seeped into foam , this area is only spot that isnít rock hard on the deck


I plan on redoing the non skid in this area after repairing waterlogged foam just in front of drain and towards the screw holes shown closer to center of boat, I will cut out about a one foot area of deck just in front of drain cleaning out thoroughly and filling with two part expanding foam then glass and gel coat w non skid


The hull is in good shape fairly lite I can pick up front or back end up easily by myself


Spider cracking on deck from sun exposures . I do wonder if these spider cracks jeopardize the glass underneath and if water can penetrate glass underneath these cracks
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-14-2018, 12:16 PM
  #15  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default The culprit to water intrusion


I pulled both drain tubes out this is the bottom one the rubber o ring was pretty much gone on both ends
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-14-2018, 02:22 PM
  #16  
Admirals Club Admiral's Club Member
THT sponsor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lindenhurst, New York
Posts: 7,743
Default

thats the original non-skid
Raybo Marine NY is offline  
Old 11-14-2018, 02:33 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,505
Default

If you are planning on making this a show piece proceed. I would not touch the no skid but if you want drill some holes in the deck and put in some lo-vis epoxy by tubes and some air pressure.
On another site I posted what I did and will try to find it if you want.

The copper tubes are a regular repair item according to most Whaler owners.

Mine are 16-1964
16-1966
18-1985
-22-1989
Does not make me an expert and some on a whaler site are sure I am not deserving to own or repair a whaler.
My.02 anyway.
muskrattown is offline  
Old 11-16-2018, 11:57 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 187
Default

When I re-did the deck on my Glacier Bay, I sanded the non-skid off and used the attached Awl Grip system - came out perfect.

DaveHNL is offline  
Old 11-17-2018, 05:55 AM
  #19  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 14
Default Thanks

Originally Posted by DaveHNL View Post
When I re-did the deck on my Glacier Bay, I sanded the non-skid off and used the attached Awl Grip system - came out perfect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SnXkloxnxc
i watched this it seems like a great alternative and far less costly fix. Andy is great . Thanks again
Jimmytodd is offline  
Old 11-17-2018, 06:32 AM
  #20  
Senior MemberCaptains Club MemberPLEDGER
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: West Carolina
Posts: 21,936
Default

Had a guy re-do my non-skid and he mixed gelcoat so it would spatter. Turned out good and is easy on bare feet.

Name:  c6TjbDL.jpg
Views: 124
Size:  174.7 KB
Shag is online now  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread