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Boat Rewire

Old 11-10-2018, 04:05 PM
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Default Boat Rewire

I was getting ready to take the boat out last night, I noticed my bilge pump was not working. When I tried other switches on the helm the aerator pump did not work, no lights, etc.
I found one blown fuse and replaced it, bilge pump works, nothing else.
There is a history of electrical problems, fuel gauge, etc.
There are what look like a thousand wires under the helm that go nowhere. There was at one time a stereo installed and then removed.
Is there an easy way to rewire the whole boat?
It has three gauges, df, tm, running lights, gauge lights, etc. pretty standard stuff.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:06 PM
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What boat do you have?

Age of boat?

Pics of boat and wiring?
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:25 PM
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Four winns horizon but I found a wiring diagram so I'm good.
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fid2Btide View Post
Four winns horizon but I found a wiring diagram so I'm good.
lets still see pics of the boat!
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:14 AM
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Rip out every last piece of wire and start new. You will not regret it
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:24 AM
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spend a few bucks and get yourself a good crimp tool. Not one from home depot, but a ratcheting one. Plus a brady labeler.

If you have time, the easy way would be to run wires out to all of the devices, and leave them long in the console. Then cut to length as you terminate.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:04 AM
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Make sure to use ABYC approved wire(stranded, tinned, labled, etc...). Not only is its safer but youu will be thankful you did if you ever try to sell.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:12 AM
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What year and is it an I/O or outboard?
the older ones like mine with the OMC I/O had an OMC engine harness mated to a Medallion dash harness with about 3-4 connectors under the dashboard. I went under there and took all of these apart and to my surprise none of the terminals were corroded. I did have an issue of low voltage to the dash wiring which I think is due to a high resistance splice in the engine harness. Everything on mine works now and I temporarily fixed the low voltage to the dash wiring by adding an aux positive feed to the fuse box. Also you may find oxidation in the fuse box especially if it had the old glass/metal fuses. You can clean up the oxidation and install new fuses. I had a no crank no gauges issue one year that was due to that simple problem easily solved.
If you still have the original battery cables, they are probably trash. I threw all that out years ago and put in a dual battery system with Ancor battery cables.
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:28 AM
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Do one circuit at a time if you want to keep from driving yourself crazy
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:18 AM
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Volt/Ohmmeter is your friend. The wiring diagrams I got off of Four Winn's site when they were still on there, were nearly indecipherable. Too small to read and too fuzzy when enlarged.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:54 AM
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Like was said volt meter will help to see what's wired to what. My wiring was a rats nest before. Over the years the previous owner did some things and some wires did go nowhere at all. I cleaned it up, re-wired some, put all new heat shrink connections as well as labeled and it is much better. Not professional by any means but now I know how everything is laid out. It's easy to do with a good fish tape. Just takes time. Genuine dealz for wire and tons of zip ties will be your friend.






Last edited by wizness; 11-11-2018 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:00 AM
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Do it. I rewired my 17’ key west a few years back. It cost me A few hundred in materials.
I took my time with the connections. So far I have had zero issues. I have little electrical experience. It’s not that hard once you understand what goes where. Buy good wire and connections.
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Old 11-16-2018, 01:02 AM
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This company has everything you'll need.

https://www.carid.com/images/ancor/i...17-catalog.pdf
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Old 11-17-2018, 02:26 PM
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I just about completely rewired my 214 Cobia CC last year, and it has cured all sorts of electrical issues. I know that there will be heated arguments about this, but I soldered all joints. I also hot glued zip tie anchors (
Amazon Amazon
) to the inside of my console and used them to zip tie the wiring so they didn't swing in the wind. I even took out some of the original push on connections, which showed corrosion, and replaced my fuse block (which had push on connectors) with a new one that had screwed connectors. I wound up with about a mile of excess old original wire, some of it not marine wire! Genuine dealz was my source for wire as well.

Yeah, I know what ABYC says, but soldering works on submarines and small boats just fine, as long as you know how to do it and the connections are anchored. And hot glue works for the anchors - unconventional, but effective and easy.
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