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39 Yellowfin rehab/restoration project.

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39 Yellowfin rehab/restoration project.

Old 11-10-2018, 08:02 AM
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Default 39 Yellowfin rehab/restoration project.

Thought you guys might want to follow along on a winter project Iím working on. We are going to put some new life into my friends 39 Yellowfin. Sheís had a bit of a rough few years and needs a little love to bring her back to glory.

The goal is a simpler rugged electrical system by deleting the C-zone digital switching system for a conventional setup. Most likely going with a custom machined dash with aircraft toggle breaker switches..

More battery capacity, with the plethora of electronics, electrical and amplifier loads 2 group 31 batteries wasnít cutting it. We are aiming for a big dedicated bank of group 31s

new electronics, replace the evo 2 NSO 24 and 16 with a pair of 19Ē evo 3 NSOs

theres been a lot of chefs in the spaghetti kitchen, time to bring it up to the standards this boat deserves.

Theres also a ton of cosmetic repairs and changes planned, new upholstery and powder coating as well as canvas. We have some storage ideas as well.

I weclome anyone's insight and ideas, but request this does not turn into a bash thread or I will have to nuke it.



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Old 11-10-2018, 08:05 AM
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Sorting out the leaning post and battery situation. Plenty of room for improvement here




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Old 11-10-2018, 08:09 AM
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Sorry, the whole gloves, wool cap and jacket thing does not work for me.

Nice project!
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:10 AM
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Looks like fun. Can't wait to see the results.
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:11 AM
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Digging into the console, removing the engine harness , electronics wiring and C-Zone system. Most of the yellowfin wiring is intact, but the additions along the way werenít done with care... time to change that. I love the mayhem!


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Old 11-10-2018, 08:14 AM
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Parker Yacht View Post
Sorry, the whole gloves, wool cap and jacket thing does not work for me.

Nice project!
we have it in a heated shop now
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:50 AM
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A buddy of mine just got a new boat with a big curved light bar like the one on your top. His is mounted on top of the hard top and set back from the front edge a foot or so. What that does is allows the front edge of the top to shade the area inside the boat from the light barís beam. Itís much more useful without the glare of the front deck and cap being lit up blinding you. I was skeptical at first but I have seen it work now and it makes a huge improvement in the distance you can see out in front of the boat. Just something you may want to check out while you have the top off
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Old 11-10-2018, 08:58 AM
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I like it boys. Way better to be ahead on the electrical system than find out your behind a tow boat!
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Fiveoh View Post
A buddy of mine just got a new boat with a big curved light bar like the one on your top. His is mounted on top of the hard top and set back from the front edge a foot or so. What that does is allows the front edge of the top to shade the area inside the boat from the light barís beam. Itís much more useful without the glare of the front deck and cap being lit up blinding you. I was skeptical at first but I have seen it work now and it makes a huge improvement in the distance you can see out in front of the boat. Just something you may want to check out while you have the top off
thanks for that, the radar and thermal camera go there. The light makes one hell of a deck light though!
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:52 AM
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"chefs in the spaghetti kitchen" now that is a freaking hilarious yet valid way to put it. If any boat deserves some fresh new spaghetti and electronics ran through it that would be one of them.
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Fiveoh View Post
A buddy of mine just got a new boat with a big curved light bar like the one on your top. His is mounted on top of the hard top and set back from the front edge a foot or so. What that does is allows the front edge of the top to shade the area inside the boat from the light barís beam. Itís much more useful without the glare of the front deck and cap being lit up blinding you. I was skeptical at first but I have seen it work now and it makes a huge improvement in the distance you can see out in front of the boat. Just something you may want to check out while you have the top off
One of the rare times when I ever really wanted to shoot someone was when a boat with one of those big light bars turned on blinded me going into an unfamiliar harbor. I couldn't see a thing for about five minutes, which was no fun in a tight channel with rocks and shoals nearby. It is totally against USCG rules to display any lights other than the prescribed navigation lights while underway. Nature gave you quite good night vision if you allow your eyes to adapt fully.
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Old 11-10-2018, 11:16 AM
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Surprised those lights aren't red ….
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Old 11-10-2018, 11:21 AM
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We donít use it as a head light, it came with the boat. The boat is equipped with FLIR anyway like I said it makes a hell of a deck light.
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Old 11-10-2018, 12:44 PM
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Admire your plans and wiring skills.
I donít know the price difference but Line X marine spray is reportedly more durable than powder coat and doesnít peel and corrode.
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Old 11-10-2018, 04:47 PM
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Sure looks like factory yellowfin wiring to me alright. getting rid of the 500$ electronic switches? noooo

Last edited by philgorp; 11-10-2018 at 04:54 PM.
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Old 11-10-2018, 05:40 PM
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What year is the hull?

How does it ride compared to the 36?

Besides electronics what other issues are you attacking?
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:28 PM
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Is that on of the old Under Armor/Caliente boats?

What year?
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Old 11-11-2018, 12:57 AM
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Im not a fan of C-zone. Too much electrical junk for longevity, it’s a good thought on paper but when it breaks and it will it’s a POS. Boat manufacturers should offer a choice on what systems you want in a boat. I will take the old school simplicity route every time. Looks like A good project, best of luck.
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Old 11-11-2018, 03:54 AM
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Been down that road with a 36. It becomes a love/hate relationship but worth it in the end.

Have you thought about installing CZone Swith Interfaces and having a switch panel made for the most used functions? I don’t see a point in throwing out perfectly good CZone Output Interfaces and going through the hassle and expense of re-wiring to achieve the same goal. The redundancy they offer over traditional switches is a huge plus if you know how their system works. Even if your whole electrical system goes down, every single electrical function can be bypassed and actived by simply moving a fuse into the bypass slot. Unless you carry plenty of jumpers or want to strip and splice wires behind the panel, you can’t do that with traditional switches, especially the push-button style. I would suggest looking into this option before throwing good equipment out. PM me if you would like to discuss further. We see so many Yellowfins, I’ve had no choice but to learn everything about CZone. I was very apprehensive at first, but now that I understand the complete system, I’ll take it over traditional switches every day, and twice on Sundays. The failure rate we see matches what we see out of DTS systems, which can be counted on one hand over the last 15 years.

Here’s some panels we had New Wire Marine put together for us that replaced failed CZone displays. One is from a 24 and the other a 42. All of the functions from the 24 were installed on two Switch Interfaces (up to 8 functions per interface). The main functions were put on the panel for the 42. I programmed several different functions to be controlled by one switch. Example; Spreader light switches control factory lights plus some Rigid flood lights added by the previous owner. If he would like, the factory lights or flood lights only can be turned on by going through the Simrad screens. Courtesy switch controls gunwale, console and compartment lights. Again, they can be individually controlled through the Simrad. Having the CZone access right on the homepage of the Simrads makes navigation to it very simple.






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Last edited by davidwademarine; 11-11-2018 at 04:02 AM.
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