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39 Yellowfin rehab/restoration project.

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39 Yellowfin rehab/restoration project.

Old 11-11-2018, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CMEBoston View Post
We donít use it as a head light, it came with the boat. The boat is equipped with FLIR anyway like I said it makes a hell of a deck light.
Got it, that seems more in keeping with your background! Deck lighting pointed down is very useful offshore when chunking and not underway and can add to safety by making your boat very visible to others (plus you can see the knife when cutting up bait). I have big LED spreader lights aimed at the cockpit for the same purpose.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by davidwademarine View Post
Been down that road with a 36. It becomes a love/hate relationship but worth it in the end.

Have you thought about installing CZone Swith Interfaces and having a switch panel made for the most used functions? I donít see a point in throwing out perfectly good CZone Output Interfaces and going through the hassle and expense of re-wiring to achieve the same goal. The redundancy they offer over traditional switches is a huge plus if you know how their system works. Even if your whole electrical system goes down, every single electrical function can be bypassed and actived by simply moving a fuse into the bypass slot. Unless you carry plenty of jumpers or want to strip and splice wires behind the panel, you canít do that with traditional switches, especially the push-button style. I would suggest looking into this option before throwing good equipment out. PM me if you would like to discuss further. We see so many Yellowfins, Iíve had no choice but to learn everything about CZone. I was very apprehensive at first, but now that I understand the complete system, Iíll take it over traditional switches every day, and twice on Sundays. The failure rate we see matches what we see out of DTS systems, which can be counted on one hand over the last 15 years.

Hereís some panels we had New Wire Marine put together for us that replaced failed CZone displays. One is from a 24 and the other a 42. All of the functions from the 24 were installed on two Switch Interfaces (up to 8 functions per interface). The main functions were put on the panel for the 42. I programmed several different functions to be controlled by one switch. Example; Spreader light switches control factory lights plus some Rigid flood lights added by the previous owner. If he would like, the factory lights or flood lights only can be turned on by going through the Simrad screens. Courtesy switch controls gunwale, console and compartment lights. Again, they can be individually controlled through the Simrad. Having the CZone access right on the homepage of the Simrads makes navigation to it very simple.






yeah nah, we are all set with digital switching of any kind, wires need to be run anyway. There is absolutely no way youíre selling me on it for a 39ft boat. Itís already ruined enough summer days.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Buttapollock1010 View Post
Im not a fan of C-zone. Too much electrical junk for longevity, itís a good thought on paper but when it breaks and it will itís a POS. Boat manufacturers should offer a choice on what systems you want in a boat. I will take the old school simplicity route every time. Looks like A good project, best of luck.
Originally Posted by philgorp View Post
Sure looks like factory yellowfin wiring to me alright. getting rid of the 500$ electronic switches? noooo
Originally Posted by redseacraft View Post
What year is the hull?

How does it ride compared to the 36?

Besides electronics what other issues are you attacking?
2015
i donít know about the ride I donít have enough time in a 36 to make that call
We are just going through everything the only real issues this boat has had has been constant C-Zone faults and alarms. While jumping out the fuse in the module seems like a good theory itís not that awesome at sea, in the dark, 120 miles from port...

the whole goal goal of this project is piece of mind....
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by CMEBoston View Post





2015
i donít know about the ride I donít have enough time in a 36 to make that call
We are just going through everything the only real issues this boat has had has been constant C-Zone faults and alarms. While jumping out the fuse in the module seems like a good theory itís not that awesome at sea, in the dark, 120 miles from port...

the whole goal goal of this project is piece of mind....
What happens when a traditional switch fails?
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by davidwademarine View Post


What happens when a traditional switch fails?
Iím not going to turn this into a debate about digital switching, we are removing it, youíre more than welcome to pick it up when Iím done launching a few mags of 5.56 at them. I can talk you this, Ive never seen the cheapest switch on the market fail as much as Iíve seen this system fail, and Iíve been in the industry for quite some time.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Lazy Bones View Post
Is that on of the old Under Armor/Caliente boats?

What year?
it is I was wondering when that would come up lol
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CMEBoston View Post

I’m not going to turn this into a debate about digital switching, we are removing it, you’re more than welcome to pick it up when I’m done launching a few mags of 5.56 at them. I can talk you this, Ive never seen the cheapest switch on the market fail as much as I’ve seen this system fail, and I’ve been in the industry for quite some time.
Good deal. Rip out the Verado DTS system and replace it all with cables while you’re at it.

I’ve been at this for over 15 years and also know how to properly install, diagnose, correct, and program CZone installations. If you know it like I do, it’s easy to see the advantages. Some can’t though.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by davidwademarine View Post


Good deal. Rip out the Verado DTS system and replace it all with cables while youíre at it.

Iíve been at this for over 15 years and also know how to properly install, diagnose, correct, and program CZone installations. If you know it like I do, itís easy to see the advantages. Some canít though.
again, if you want to argue C-Zone start a thread, if you want to participate here then be a professional and swallow your pride. Iím sure youíre way smarter than me, I admit defeat.
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Last edited by CMEBoston; 11-11-2018 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:20 AM
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Some of y’all can be so sensitive. Good luck.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:43 AM
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Nice work on the refit! Looking forward to more photos!
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:50 AM
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I agree czone is cumbersome, i have it and traditional switches in a 24 - never use the czone. and in my 36' i replaced the Moritz panel with this switch panel from YF - i liked it better because there are hidden posts and no visible screw holes - but you cannot customize or add more switches.. I do which YF had one, centrally located breaker panel. while 1000s of zip ties makes things tidy, it's a pain when there is an issue.

and they beat the tar out of the Caliente/Under Armor boat. I've seen them knock the rub rail off from waves. the latest boat hit a submerged jetty knocking off lowers in whole or in part and sending the engines up past max tilt into the rod holders they have along the transom. They're stress tested.
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Old 11-11-2018, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbrowndog View Post

I agree czone is cumbersome, i have it and traditional switches in a 24 - never use the czone. and in my 36' i replaced the Moritz panel with this switch panel from YF - i liked it better because there are hidden posts and no visible screw holes - but you cannot customize or add more switches.. I do which YF had one, centrally located breaker panel. while 1000s of zip ties makes things tidy, it's a pain when there is an issue.

and they beat the tar out of the Caliente/Under Armor boat. I've seen them knock the rub rail off from waves. the latest boat hit a submerged jetty knocking off lowers in whole or in part and sending the engines up past max tilt into the rod holders they have along the transom. They're stress tested.

itís really a testament to the quality of these machines. They take an absolute beating and ask for more... 40 ft jet ski

those panels are clean, we are planning on a custom machined dash to incorporate the switching. Ideally the switch labels will be back lit.

in itís current configuration there are 32 circuits programmed into the C-Zone configuration, some will be deleted (like electronics ).

Last edited by CMEBoston; 11-11-2018 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 02:43 PM
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I had been very unhappy with the C Zone controller system on my boat because it was hard to read in daylight and much more complicated than simply pushing a button.
I finally found an excellent technician on the West coast of Florida to do the job, Chad Stevens , owner of Strategy Marine at 941-877-1610. He integrated the switch panel into the Czone system so I have the best of both systems.
He completed the job in a few hours and everything turned out great.



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Old 11-11-2018, 02:57 PM
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Those panels are nice, but unfortunately wonít work stand alone and need the C-zone.... we are ditching it completely.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CMEBoston View Post
Those panels are nice, but unfortunately wonít work stand alone and need the C-zone.... we are ditching it completely.
I was about to remove the CZone and replace it with a non-digital switching system until I found a technician who was experienced with Czone.
Good luck with your project.

Last edited by me00351; 11-11-2018 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by me00351 View Post

I was about to remove the CZone and replace it with a non-digital switching system until I found a technician who was experienced with Czone.
Good luck with your project.
between this boat and the plethora or yellowfins I serviced over the last 10 years working for a north east dealer I have plenty of experience with it, more than most. That still doesnít mean we want it, or the owner wants it. Jesus the C-zone love is real around here. Iíll put a beer on it that you will want what this boat will have when weíre done..... the wiring to the junction box is all comprised, and will need to be replaced anyway. We are not cutting and but splicing whatís already here and giving us problems...
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by davidwademarine View Post


What happens when a traditional switch fails?
you replace the switch,
as opposed to replacing 500$ modules. aircraft toggle breakers have a very good track record. provided the console is weather tight.
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:04 PM
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Czone in Florida is one thing when you can most likely get replacement parts the same day. Czone in New England is a different story. Had the option and went with old school rockers. When one gives up on life, I replace it with a spare that is kept on the boat. Granted the electronics on my boat are not simple, but the wiring is.
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Old 11-12-2018, 02:04 AM
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Hello, looks like a great project, quad motors, what hp are they, are they Speedmaster lowers? The good thing is you are already starting with something that is a good boat, im subīd.
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Old 11-12-2018, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by buxa View Post
Hello, looks like a great project, quad motors, what hp are they, are they Speedmaster lowers? The good thing is you are already starting with something that is a good boat, im subīd.
350s they have race lowers.
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