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2001 Scarab Sport 302 rebuild underway.

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2001 Scarab Sport 302 rebuild underway.

Old 10-29-2018, 07:06 PM
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Wow, lots of work.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon33 View Post


Put the moisture meter on the bulkheads and stringers today. Both stringers are wet and port is delaminated.

Cut one open and found it half filled and with water sitting inside it. Planning on cutting the tops off pulling the wood off inside but leaving the lamination in place. Replacing it with Coosa, filling them back up and glassing the top back on.

Started pulling the front tank today as well. Anyone have any tips to get it out? Went around it with a saw, put a come along on it and thing wonít budge. Left the pressure on it over night hoping itíll pop loose sometime between now and tomorrow.
I got a chain around the front part of the tank, put some 2x4ís across and jacked. Then waited... then it popped...
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Flying_Norseman View Post


Better for who? Anyone who doesnít want to go boating/fishing maybe..... I realize you worked on your boat for years, but some of us actually enjoy being on the water instead of spending years rebuilding. Nothing wrong with restoring, I've done it too and is still doing it....... Not sure if the OP wants years and years of work or just a repair that will last though...
trust me, if I didnt have a perfectly working flats boat and plenty of friends with boats mine would have been done way sooner but it would have probably lacked in fine details that it has now since I could take my time.

taking a sawzall to an existing center console 2 piece liner is MUCH easier than what I had to go thru!!
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Flying_Norseman View Post


I got a chain around the front part of the tank, put some 2x4ís across and jacked. Then waited... then it popped...

was yours foamed underneath?

I ended up cutting the bulkhead out in front of it so I could get a come along around it instead of pulling at the filler tube. Wound up breaking the cable on the come along... Needles to say this tank is kicking my butt. Rigged up a band saw blade to cut the bottom foam. Hopefully it works out.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon33 View Post





was yours foamed underneath?

I ended up cutting the bulkhead out in front of it so I could get a come along around it instead of pulling at the filler tube. Wound up breaking the cable on the come along... Needles to say this tank is kicking my butt. Rigged up a band saw blade to cut the bottom foam. Hopefully it works out.
I cut so that I could get a chain around the front of the tank, removed the foam all the way around, then put a few 2x4ís across and put a flor jack on top of them and the chain atop the floor jack. Jacked up and waited.... The tank was foamed in solid all the way around, something the engineers at Welcraft donít suggest you do anymore. I foamed the new one in in the corners only and used two aluminum profiles to hold the new tank down.
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:08 PM
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I cut the foam all the way round the tank with a sawzall and then tried the same method that you are using. I attached my strap to the gas fill and the tank didn't budge. Luckily I had access to an overhead crane and that did the trick.
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Old 10-31-2018, 04:28 PM
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That bandsaw blade is medieval looking! It would be beneficial to hog out all the foam on the sides of the tank before any further lifting attemps are made.
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Old 10-31-2018, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharpest View Post
That bandsaw blade is medieval looking! It would be beneficial to hog out all the foam on the sides of the tank before any further lifting attemps are made.
Desperate times call for desperate measures!

the foam is mostly out along the sides. Still some but enough room to get a crow bar in between the tank and stringers. I just canít believe the bottom is foamed too. Couldnít imagine having to do this to a boat that wasnít getting the deck replaced.
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon33 View Post
........ Couldnít imagine having to do this to a boat that wasnít getting the deck replaced.
I did it, it can be done. Trust me on that floor jack trick, it is waaaaay more pressure than your setup...
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:39 PM
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Been there done that. I picked up a 34 off the trailer trying to pull the tank. You can also try a pressure washer to help blast some foam with a 45 on the end to get under the tank. What worked for me was: deflated two polyballs. Stuffed down between the tank and stringer, then started slowly adding air until the tank popped loose

Last edited by westco; 10-31-2018 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 11-01-2018, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Flying_Norseman View Post


I did it, it can be done. Trust me on that floor jack trick, it is waaaaay more pressure than your setup...
Worked like a charm. Thanks!

Got the tank out, stringers opened up and most of the foam out. The starboard stringer is dry besides the very back. Port was soaked.

Curious about the type of foam they used though as it was soaking up water.

When i fill them back up is there a foam that wonít soak water up? Would arjay be a better route or would that be too strong and heavy?


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Old 11-01-2018, 06:33 PM
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Arjay is way to heavy for that much volume. The manufacturer designed the stringers so the fiberglass would carry the load and they were filled with foam for flotation.

2 lb density urethane foam is whats recomended by the Boatbuilders handbook for flotation.

http://uscgboating.org/regulations/a.../FLOTATION.pdf
Boatbuilder's Handbook

There is a lot of information in these handbooks but subpart F, section 7, page 59-60 talks about type of foam and tests it has to stand up to.
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:28 PM
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My stringers were good except for the last 6" from the transom. My transom was mush and the rot carried into the ends of the stringers. Just for reference the bum that did everything quoted me $3000 - $3500. Then he held my boat for ransom for $6000! Thankfully he did do a great job and said he would never do another Scarab for less than $7,000.
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by surv View Post
Arjay is way to heavy for that much volume. The manufacturer designed the stringers so the fiberglass would carry the load and they were filled with foam for flotation.

2 lb density urethane foam is whats recomended by the Boatbuilders handbook for flotation.

http://uscgboating.org/regulations/a.../FLOTATION.pdf
Boatbuilder's Handbook

There is a lot of information in these handbooks but subpart F, section 7, page 59-60 talks about type of foam and tests it has to stand up to.
Thanks! Iím just not into this foam since it held water. Granted when the boat is done, no water should get into the stringers. Im just always trying to find a better way to do things and this is one of those times I should probably just do what the factory did.

Originally Posted by RussH View Post
My stringers were good except for the last 6" from the transom. My transom was mush and the rot carried into the ends of the stringers. Just for reference the bum that did everything quoted me $3000 - $3500. Then he held my boat for ransom for $6000! Thankfully he did do a great job and said he would never do another Scarab for less than $7,000.
Ouch! I couldnít imagine doing a transom and the rear stringers in this boat without pulling the cap off. Which I would imagine would be around $10k at least.
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Old 11-04-2018, 01:24 PM
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Update?
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Old 11-04-2018, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by avalonandl View Post
Update?

spent the weekend in the woods getting some hunting done. With all that extra time to think Iíve decided on some things

Getting rid of the foam and not putting it back in. Adding bulkheads inside the stringers to strengthen them, similar to the 80s models. Going to cut open the stringers inside the rear bilge to get the foam out. (going to be a total PITA).

Going with 3/4 coosa or thermo lite board for the floor depending on pricing. Going to non skid it for now in case I donít get to the teak deck this winter. Plan on glassing in a cored L for the new center console and seating to bolt to. Thatíll keep all water out of the center console and get rid of the holes through the deck. Also adding a sump pump inside the console for the floor drain in the console and cabin. Adding two floor hatches on both sides of the console in the front for storage. Head inside the console will be roughly 32Ēx27Ē of room. Thatíll give me about a 12 inch seat/cooler on the front. Iím doing the console and seating/bait station just like the cobia consoles as far as design and layout. Iíll be back on the boat this week after work.


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Old 11-06-2018, 01:19 PM
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Default Foam doesnít belong in a boat..... change my mind.




Foam is gone. Well, all I can get to. Onto cleaning, pattern making and the actual fun part. Being a Great Lakes boat I donít foresee ever being in a situation where I need the flotation foam. If I do I think I would rather let it sink than pull the deck off again because I know the foam got wet. The other issue I see is how freeze and thaw cycles (if water is present) can break the foams bond, in turn making no longer ďclosed cellĒ. I just donít see the benefit of it for my use in anyway. By all means if you disagree Iíd love to hear your opinion.
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Old 11-06-2018, 05:42 PM
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Foam is there for safety.

There is an interesting thread here on tht about a guy that had a sweet aluminum cat built, about a 30 ft boat if I remember right. He specifically told the builder he did not want any foam in the boat and on the maider voyage it had a seam come apart and it sunk. The Coast Guard was able to get him off the boat just before it sunk but the boat was gone.
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Old 11-06-2018, 07:24 PM
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The space where the shop vac is at was a hatch and tub in my Scarab. I had the boat for almost an entire season before I noticed that entire space was filled with water. Wellcraft never put in a drain for that space for the water to drain under the fuel tank and into the bilge. they were really good to work with an sent me drawing so that I knew where to drill weep holes without hitting the fuel tank.
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:34 AM
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The little amount of foam youíve got in there probably wonít do much to keep the boat floating. I bet they used it to provide some support to the stringers and floor and to dampen noise and vibrations. It was probably open cell if it soaks up water. The thing to remember is that boats are consumer goods that arenít designed or built to last forever. I

As for foam, freeze/thaw cycles donít turn foam from closed cell to open.

People always say ďIíll seal up the compartment to make sure water doesnít get in there.Ē Once the floor goes down, youíve got no idea if that compartment is sealed. Youíve got no idea if itís keeping water out. However, if you fill that cavity with a 2 or 4lb density, closed cell foam, therewonít be room for water to get in.

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