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Bertram 28 Stretch

Old 10-17-2018, 12:57 PM
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Default Bertram 28 Stretch

A couple years ago I bought this boat


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and rebuilt it to this



I said never again but 6 months later I bought this for $500 and am right back in it!

My current 28 runs really great. With 11' beam at the widest part it has room to get longer (I think). Right now it would be a similar layout with some minor tweaks. Not much I don't like about mine but some things I would revise slightly.

So here is the initial concept, this stretches the running surface 4'6" which makes it 33'. Then the bracket adds 2'6 more. Lots to figure out. Not sure of the approach yet but for now I am taking the hull apart and it will likely sit a while until I get a plan and some time. The hull has been on land for 20 years. Bottom already blasted off. I already have a partial thread going on the end of the other thread but someone suggested I start a new one.

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Old 10-17-2018, 01:06 PM
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So my mom is a saint and let me block the boat up in her back yard. Level the keel, level the chines at transom and at point of widest beam. Amazing that it was twisted like 2” out of level.


The plan then was cut the transom off, build a mold on the back full the running surface, put the transom back on, then build molds for the hull sides. The chines run down and in the vee as you go aft. The hull deadrise remains constant for the last 7’ so I basically added another 4’6 at the same deadrise. The chine narrowed in 5 inches in that length


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Old 10-17-2018, 01:12 PM
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You are crazy, but I like it!

I built a cold molded boat off the numbers for a Jarratt Bay 34x12. While building I stretched it 4' and kept the same 11.5' beam. Ended up with a 38x11.5 and put in a single Cummins 450 with a tunnel. Ended up a nice running boat.

Nothing wrong with long and skinny!

That extension will be a devil to fair. Trust me, I know!
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Old 10-17-2018, 01:13 PM
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I built a level jig surface with 2x4s 2’ off the keel line. Those are what my molds sit on. Ultimately the bracket mold also sits on them. So I stold Bills technique of decking over in plywood then using bagging film as my release surface. Worked good. Not as good as Durante like or Formica would have but great for speed to get it done. I offset the surface about 1/8” up from the bottom so I can add layers to the bottom when I flip it over. So I then laid up 6 skins of biax on the bottom




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Old 10-17-2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Daytrip01 View Post
I built a level jig surface with 2x4s 2’ off the keel line. Those are what my molds sit on. Ultimately the bracket mold also sits on them. So I stold Bills technique of decking over in plywood then using bagging film as my release surface. Worked good. Not as good as Durante like or Formica would have but great for speed to get it done. I offset the surface about 1/8” up from the bottom so I can add layers to the bottom when I flip it over. So I then laid up 6 skins of biax on the bottom
Thief! Somebody call Cracker!

Just don't let a certain ex-pat (maybe?) living in China find out about it.

Looking great! (and Corndog isn't lying!)
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:18 PM
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Next time we meet I'm seeing this thing!
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:21 PM
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In!
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:28 PM
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I know corndog! I put that part of it out of my mind.

I am am a total thief Bills. If it were not for masters like you sharing shade tree glass guys like me wouldn’t have a chance honestly. I really appreciate it. Worst part is I have a boat, I could buy a 33 but I am sick enough to enjoy it.

Anytime Royce. Can’t bust your chops since I have not made it to see yours.
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:32 PM
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In
good luck!

more power to you
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:34 PM
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Badass. Enjoyed the last build.

This one going to be a CC too?
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:36 PM
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So I trimmed the transom and jigged it back in place. Taped it in and used 1/4 melamine to create the hull side molds. I don’t love the shear line of the 28 particularly at the Stern. It is a gentle arc from bow to Stern. So I went 5’6” forward of the old transom and held the distance from chine to shear the same at new transom. Basically a straight line for the last 10’. this is the “theoretical” view.




This is the enclosed end product. Sides have 4 skins and will get two more. Everything is epoxy and biax.




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Old 10-17-2018, 02:40 PM
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Love it. This is going to fun to watch the progression.
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Old 10-17-2018, 02:44 PM
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This is like binge watching. But it slows down after this. Last weekend I built the mold for the bracket. Basically the same process I used on the current 28. The stringers will extend through the transom to the clamping board on the bracket. They will be new and full height to the mid ship bulkhead which coincides with the back of the console. Again used melamine as the molding surface. Will start laying up tomorrow or Friday night. Will be glassed right to the hull. When I did the jig I planned on building the bracket off of it and that has worked perfect. Also my location for blocking up the hull was about as close as you would want to be to the oak tree.







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Old 10-17-2018, 02:58 PM
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The tree never moved, the boat kept growing!
Careful, you might be building a triple engine boat
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:16 PM
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Bracket would have to be a bit wider! I increased to 60” but I think I would need 66 to make 26” center work? Not happening anyway.
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:19 PM
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Wow!!! Job done!! Brilliant!!!!!
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:47 PM
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Sub'd. Lot of talented folks on this site.

Keep up the good work
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Old 10-17-2018, 03:58 PM
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Awesome fellas. Welcome to the sh...t show. Thanks for the support!
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:02 PM
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Old 10-17-2018, 04:06 PM
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Wow your are a talented dude. Keep the pics rolling
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