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Best way to kill mold

Old 10-11-2018, 02:01 PM
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Default Best way to kill mold

I found out last weekend that the hatch on my bow has been leaking and from what I can tell it has been happening for a while. I pulled the hatch, repaired the holes that were stripped out (likely the previous owner trying to "fix" the leak) and re-bed the hatch hopefully to keep it dry forever. Unfortunately the deck layup is FG, foam and wood. There is a 1" thick wood core sandwiched between some glass and some of the exposed wood is very soft (although currently dry). Then the vinyl headliner is installed by stapling to another 1/4" plywood which is then glued/bonded to the rest of the layup. I pulled some of the staples to expose the back side of the vinly and the 1/4" plywood to find lots of furry, black mold in there. How do I kill it? Spray bottle of bleach/water mix? Get some of these https://www.boatownerswarehouse.com/...t_p/gelair.htm and let the A/C vent blow on the wood?

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Scott
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:51 PM
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Fire!!!
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:35 PM
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Look for Concrobium. A special product meant just for mold control.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:40 PM
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Zep mold and mildew works well.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:42 PM
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:11 PM
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I am a Florida licensed mold assessor and mold remediation. According to the EPA, wash with soap and warer, the apply diluted bleach 50/50 mix with water. On the other hand, the chemical companies would rather you use their chemicals. In this case, I prefer Microban made for mold remediation. It runs $30 per gallon.
Being it’s on a boat, if it was my boat, I would wire brush the wood, vacuum the wood, wash with detergent and rinse with water. I would allow the wood to dry. Once dried, I would apply the diluted bleach. Let dry and then refinish or reupholster it.
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Old 10-11-2018, 06:53 PM
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For the area where wood is soft and screws loose: drill larger holes, undercut any soft wood. Fill with epoxy thickened with Cabosil and high density filler. Re-install screws into the epoxy. Use 5200 as sealant. Personally I probably would do a new headliner...new door skins or quality 1/4" ply, coated with epoxy to seal them, and avoid the issue. Once the mold is growing on the back of the vinyl it will be hard to get rid of.

I have cleaned with soap and water, with chlorox, and then sprayed with Concrobium. Keep the headliner dry. I prefer monel metal staples--many SS will rust--not so Monel.
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:00 PM
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RMR 141 Kills the Mold. RMR-86 Takes the mold stain away, watch the youtube videos. I use the stuff works great. Makes the mold stain disappear in seconds!
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:34 PM
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Ozone generator
good one
About $100 to rent for day.

It will kill mold, and all bacteria,in every nook and cranny
it gets to places you cant even see..crevices, fabrics and foams
leaves fresh clean smell....
​​​​​​
Wont clean up black residue though.

Good powerful ones are $700. Cheap dont work.


Last edited by mbb; 10-11-2018 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mbb View Post
Ozone generator
good one
About $100 to rent for day.

It will kill mold, and all bacteria,in every nook and cranny
it gets to places you cant even see..crevices, fabrics and foams
leaves fresh clean smell....
​​​​​​
Wont clean up black residue though.

Good powerful ones are $700. Cheap dont work.

As you noted it kills mold spores but doesn't remove the dead mold, And it does get in places which are hard to spray. But keep in mind concentrated ozone is toxic to humans and pets too so ventilate well after the confined use. (Possibly even explosive in some concentrations and conditions.)
Also I believe as a powerful oxidizer ozone is corrosive to at least some metals and may affect electrical connections and can deteriorate rubber , so use with caution and best minimize ozone generator activation duration .
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:01 AM
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Ozone generators are designed for treating odor and mainly the odor caused by fires.
Ozone generators will harm rubber, elastics and some materials. You could regret it.

When I treat mold in a house, depending on the concentration of mold spores (obtained from an air sample) I will also apply Chlorine Dioxide using an electrostatic fogger.

Google clorine Dioxide and also search it on YouTube. You will be amazed.
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Old 10-12-2018, 05:16 AM
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Borax is cheap and nontoxic. Works as well as concrobium, also is an insecticide. Mix 4 cups per gallon of warm water and apply with and garden sprayer. Saturate the wood and scrub all the visible mold loose with a stiff brush. Allow it to dry and vacuum with a hepa vacuum(vacmaster available on Amazon is as cheap to buy as renting one). Then apply a second saturating coat of borax and allow to dry. You can then apply a commercial encapsulant paint for good measure. This is what our mold expert recommended for our beach house after a large water leak. But I am no expert on the matter.
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Old 10-12-2018, 06:08 AM
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I canít comment on the Borax, as I had neveri used it on mold. Most of the products made specifically for removing the mold stain are either Clorox bleach or peroxide based.

In your case with a Water Backup, you are treating the effects of Categoty 3 water (Black Water). Category 3 water carrier bacteria and possibly pathogens. Of course, the water itself will elevate the moisture content of the material and can cause mold growth.

I have been using microban for many years and never had to redo a job.

As far an an encapsulant, is you are referring to one that is the paint type (such as Fosters), in a marine environment it could prevent the wood from drying when it becomes wet or with an elevated moisture content. I know plywood stringers and bulkheads are completely incapaulated in polyester resin and glass cloth. However, what occurs when the water gets in? It canít evaporate as it is trapped and the plywood rots.

As far as boating is concerned, get used to the mold. As long as the air within the boat has an elevated moisture contents, mold will grow.

Three things needed for mold to grow: water (moisture), the correct temperature range, a food source (wood, cellulose)
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Old 10-12-2018, 06:12 AM
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Sorry, I'm not a rocket scientist - 50% bleach and 50% water - let dry and try to get it in the sun...
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Old 10-12-2018, 06:20 AM
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Chlorine dioxide will kill mold.. There are several user-friendly, not crazy expensive, DIY type Clo2 products out there.
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Old 10-12-2018, 06:32 AM
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Once you have the mold removed you may want to spray the area down with BioShield 75. I had some mold growth in my cabin. I cleaned and sprayed it down with BioShield . No mold retuned . Supposed to last for 90 days. I got it from an outfit in NC called CFA Medical
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Old 10-12-2018, 06:38 AM
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Surprised no one knows this one........Commercial grade 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.....Hard to beat. Some mold will eat bleach like candy.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:18 AM
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I make my living removing mold from homes and extracting water. Donít knock yourself out over mold on a boat. Itís a boat not a home. Bleach and water
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:21 AM
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Thanks for all the replies. Heavy rain and wind last night tested my install and all is dry. I am going to wipe all accessible surfaces with bleach/water and the use the Concrobium aerosol to "fog" all the areas I can't reach. I will let it air dry as long as needed and then put the hatch interior trim ring back on and call it a success :-).

Scott
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:53 AM
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Read the full application instructions. Normally on their website
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