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Repair or Get out of a potential lemon boat?

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Repair or Get out of a potential lemon boat?

Old 10-07-2018, 04:06 PM
  #21  
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If the transom, stringers and decks/cockpit are free of rot/delamination keep the boat and put a rebuilt or after market lower unit. Just replacing the bellows is not all that bad, but, this is the time to check the transom and stringers!
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Old 10-07-2018, 05:05 PM
  #22  
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You have a fifteen year old boat things are going to wear out and break, that's inevitable.
You also have a top line name brand boat, with Mercuiser power not Volvo, both are resale pluses. Fix the boat with new parts and you should be able to sell with out difficulty or keep it with better piece of mind.
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Old 10-08-2018, 02:57 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by thataway View Post
If the transom, stringers and decks/cockpit are free of rot/delamination keep the boat and put a rebuilt or after market lower unit. Just replacing the bellows is not all that bad, but, this is the time to check the transom and stringers!
I would agree with thataway, check the integrity of the deck/stringers/transom - Sea Ray are not the best built boats on the water.
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Old 10-08-2018, 03:24 AM
  #24  
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Prior reply by LouC made some true points....the early BIII units had bad corrosion problems, due to the large surface area of Stainless Steel on the duo props...in relation to the aluminum of the lower unit. Later models having less issues as Merc made some changes to slow that down.

Lots of corrosion on the lower unit being common on them, may not be (likely isn't) the reason you're leaking oil. More than likely it's seals. Either way...since it's an expensive repair I'd consider getting 2nd and 3rd opinions from other shops. I'd think you'd have noticed chipped gears with missing teeth by now.

As to your question of "to fix, or to sell". If you sell it "as is"...I bet a few pints of Guinness you're just going to sit on that boat and have it for sale for a loooong time. If I liked the boat, I'd seek to repair it...and keep it a while. Or at least...repair it..and then sell it. You're more likely to find a buyer with it having a new out drive than a destroyed out.

An expensive lesson to more closely examine a boat before purchase. Typically with smaller boats in a lower price range, just a basic survey is done. They'll inspect the rest of the boat, hull, electronics, and do a "basic" external survey of the engine(s) and drive(s). This would have revealed major issues..notably a shot bellows. Possibly existing gear issues and evidence of existing seal leaks. Certainly point out any extreme corrosion. Typically with larger boats going into higher price points..having an "engine survey" done by a mechanic is desirable. On smaller boats in lower price points, I tend to lean towards the thought of "major issues of the engine/drive would be pointed out by the initial surveyor and a sea trial".

As others noted above..you don't have to replace a BIII with another BIII. Readup on the pros and cons of the different Merc units. And think about which replacement you choose....how it affects resale value.
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Old 10-08-2018, 03:38 AM
  #25  
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$10K sounds pricey for a B3.

I'd have it checked at another shop if possible.
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:28 AM
  #26  
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Sorry that your education is going to be an expensive one. I'm a marine surveyor. The B3 from that era had known corrosion issues. Major issues. Any surveyor would have told you that if you'd had the boat surveyed.

From a dollar and cents point of view, you would be better off installing a used drive if you intend to sell the boat. It makes no cents (pun intended) to try to sell w/o repairing. If you intend to keep the boat, have a surveyor check the transom,stringers, etc. You don't need to pay for a full survey, just tell him/her what you want to accomplish. Be there when he inspects the boat. You may or may not want a report.

Good luck with it.
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Old 10-08-2018, 01:46 PM
  #27  
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Hello Everyone!

I just wanted to thank everyone for their replies. A little bit more information! Before purchasing the boat, I noted the corrosion and did a bunch of research online about it. Most of the information indicated that the corrosion is most likely cosmetic in nature. I am not sure if I had a survey that it would have caught the internal damage to the drive. I am also not sure that the dealership would have allowed me to take the boat off premises to have my mechanic inspect. I did do a sea trial prior to purchase as well but I did not note any unusual sounds. Lastly, the whole drive (upper and lower) is shot. What I am most interested in is where do I go from here? I have heard a couple of good suggestions from this forum. First, if I want to switch to a different lower unit, what is the cost differential and what performance attributes do I affect if I switch from a dual prop lower to a single prop lower. Second, where can I buy a used and/or after market bravo 3? Lastly, does anyone know what the difference between a tp and lp bravo 3 outdrive (i.e. 714-5-5441500TP versus 714-5-54441500LP)? Thanks for all of your information and help. It is truly appreciated!
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Old 10-08-2018, 01:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by tgulbin View Post
and what performance attributes do I affect if I switch from a dual prop lower to a single prop lower.
Bravo 3...with the duo prop, can get better hole-shot (up on plane), can hold a boat up on plane at lower speeds, better slow speed maneuvering. More to maintain, higher repair costs.

Single prop Bravo like the One..higher top speeds, lower maint and repair costs.
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Old 10-08-2018, 02:57 PM
  #29  
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If the upper and lower gear housings are both bad, then there is no inexpensive way to solve this problem. I would try to find a good used unit, or a reman unit with a warrantee. And decide if you for sure want to stay with the B-III or change to the B-1. The B-III has performance advantages and low speed maneuvering is better as noted above. Keep in mind if you change drives the gear ratio must be appropriate to your engine package. If you boat where it is rocky or there's a lot of debris in the water, I vote single prop drive. Lower costs over time.
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