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Rejuvinating Your Boat - Gelcoat Like New!

Old 09-24-2018, 11:03 AM
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Default Rejuvinating Your Boat - Gelcoat Like New!

I spent a lot of time trying to wet sand by hand, compound and wax my boat and it looks great for a while but the haze always returns. Tried different products and same result. Over weeks or a few months the powder returns. So after reading all the trheads on THT I finally decided to try the man everyone says is the best. Jammel...

Besides being a nice guy and explaining everything in detail, he pointed out what I didnt do enough of which is sanding. Not wet sanding but DRY SANDING! I was intrigued and very nervous but he explained the need to cut off the old oxidized surface of Gel Cote and get back to fresh material then buff it all out. I thought parts of the boat were ok and just needed a good compound but, he assured me the boat needed sanding top down, every inch. So I asked him to take on the job.

The following are pics of the process as he is doing it live this week!

First test spot on hull. Started with 600 grit and ended up with 800 grit then two compounds and a top wax. Still has a final one to go but he wanted to see how his process would work.





Last edited by TheBigWhit; 09-25-2018 at 04:06 PM. Reason: Corrected grit from 320 to 600.
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Old 09-24-2018, 11:12 AM
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hand sanding or using a machine?
Old 09-24-2018, 11:33 AM
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320 is very aggressive. Good thing you had thick gelcoat.
Old 09-24-2018, 11:50 AM
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Those are some very aggressive grits, especially if used dry. Hard to believe you can go from 800 to compound. That seems like a big jump. Good luck.
Old 09-24-2018, 11:58 AM
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I'm curious how big is your boat and what is the cost for all this work?
Old 09-24-2018, 11:58 AM
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320 grit dry sand paper on gelcoat. That sounds too scary for me.
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:17 PM
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As long as it’s thick no worries, I’ve sprayed gel without duractec and started with 220, worked up to 1000, buff and wax looked perfect
Old 09-24-2018, 01:30 PM
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I was wrong. He is finishing with 1200. Yes, big areas are dry sand with an orbital. For the small areas under the T-Top for example he is using wet 600-1200. It's not normal looking DA discs and he asked that I not say what it is. Jammel has obviously learned some tricks of the trade.

My boat is a 2009 Cobia 296. I buffed it out last year but got tired of chasing the dull sections around the boat. I can say I never did the degree of detail and sanding that is being done. Every piece of metal, instruments, rubrail, etc has been masked off. They've been sanding for the past 8.5 hours and they are not half way done on the inside.
Old 09-24-2018, 02:14 PM
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Here are two test sections on the inside of the boat. I didnt know the gel cote is actually a cream/sand color inside.




Old 09-24-2018, 02:19 PM
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Ball park price?
do you have a plan going forward to keep it up?
Old 09-24-2018, 02:23 PM
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My plan to keep it looking good is to call jammel every 6 months! Unless fishing gets bad and I get really bored...

Ill save the cost till the end when we see how it turns out. In the mean time, both guys are still sanding inside.

BTW, I misunderstood Jammel in my OP. Some boats he's done were so badly oxidized he needed to start at 320 grit but he started at 600 grit on mine.

Last edited by TheBigWhit; 09-24-2018 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:34 PM
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What's up,with the mask?
Old 09-24-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by REZ View Post
What's up,with the mask?
Dust from sanding maybe? It's a filter of sorts I'm guessing.
Old 09-25-2018, 04:26 AM
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What's the big secret on cost ?
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:36 AM
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I knew you were off on the grit. I'm doing mine right now. We are doing 800, 1500, 3000 Buff Magic and top off with Pro Polish. The Sea Foam green shows the slightest of "pig tails".
Old 09-25-2018, 04:59 AM
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I noticed that the metal on your T-Top looks great especially the high spots overhead where most get oxidized first. I have a new to me boat with oxidation up high, did they do something to buff out the metal as well or did the T-Top just look like that?
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by captpepin View Post
I noticed that the metal on your T-Top looks great especially the high spots overhead where most get oxidized first. I have a new to me boat with oxidation up high, did they do something to buff out the metal as well or did the T-Top just look like that?
Jammel has not yet touched the metal. I've worked pretty hard on it over the last few years. Woody wax, Collonite, Royal Purple Gun Lube, WD40, etc. There is oxidation around the screws and it drives me nuts but I have not been able to reverse it just stop further corrosion.
Old 09-25-2018, 06:36 AM
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Get it Cermaic coated after all of that and not worry about calling Jamel for a couple more years.
Old 09-25-2018, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by captpepin View Post
I noticed that the metal on your T-Top looks great especially the high spots overhead where most get oxidized first. I have a new to me boat with oxidation up high, did they do something to buff out the metal as well or did the T-Top just look like that?
Originally Posted by TheBigWhit View Post

Jammel has not yet touched the metal. I've worked pretty hard on it over the last few years. Woody wax, Collonite, Royal Purple Gun Lube, WD40, etc. There is oxidation around the screws and it drives me nuts but I have not been able to reverse it just stop further corrosion.
Dam I was in hope of finding that silver bullet for aluminum oxidation. Boat looks nice
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:02 AM
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Vantaredoc is that your SeaFoam green boat? I love the color and boat sure does shine.

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