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'96 Evinrude 150 OceanPro - Starting issues

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'96 Evinrude 150 OceanPro - Starting issues

Old 07-13-2018, 08:23 AM
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Exclamation '96 Evinrude 150 OceanPro - Starting issues

Have had this 1996 Aquasport 20' center console with an Evinrude 150 Ocean Pro since new. It sat for many years and then I decided to revive it back in 2016. Cleaned carbs, replaced lines, and so one. Ran great all summer, always hard to start cold but just assumed that was part of it. This summer has been a bit different. The last few times I have tried to get started in my driveway before going out and after 30-40 minutes of trying I give up....

If I can get her started she will run like a dream ALL DAY. No issue whatsoever. I can turn her off and back on as many times as I please, its perfect.

Each time I go for a cold start through the classic Evinrude start procedure. Clap my hands 3 times, stand on my head and cross my fingers. You know the one.

Recently noticed the primer solenoid was leaking a bit from the front valve, so I rebuilt with new parts from Sierra, leak gone. However I do notice when I turn the red valve to pointing up and pump the primer bulb, it leaks like crazy?? Is this normal? Did I rebuild incorrectly?

That rebuild didn't fix my cold starts so now I am back at square one asking for your expertise! What am I missing?
Old 07-13-2018, 07:26 PM
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Primer should not be leaking at all. When the motor does not want to start, have you checked to see if you are getting spark ? If your primer leaks fuel when you pump the fuel bulb. Then it could also be letting the fuel leak back into the fuel line, causing you to be air bound and not wanting to start.
Old 07-13-2018, 07:32 PM
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How does the choke or cold start enrichment operate on that engine?Hard cold start is a classic symptom of the choke not working. You could try giving the intake a shot of ether on the cold start to prove that it is lacking fuel.
Old 07-14-2018, 01:23 PM
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Default New development

so I noticed leaking from the choke primer and fixed that. Still leaking from somewhere. Turns out the marine Tex we had on the lowest port side carb bowl had failed and the ball besring came out. Every pump of primer bulb I could watch as fuel came pouring out of the float bowl. So obviously not holding prime. Just resealed with marine Tex and have to wait till tomorrow when it’s cured. Will update once that is done!!
fingers crossed this is the last leak... for now.
Old 07-14-2018, 01:47 PM
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Carbs don't need sealing with anything, fix the problem! it seems you might have a couple of issues, the prime start, and the carbs leaking, both need to be fixed properly.
Old 07-15-2018, 04:00 PM
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Unhappy interesting developments

Some interesting developments today.

1. On these carbs, the factory, in their infinite wisdom, seals a small hole in the float bowls with a ball bearing and epoxy. This shit fails. that was leak #2 that I fixed as per the instructions found by good ol internet hunting. Some Marine Tex did the trick and let cure for 24 hours.
2. Went to fire her up, the battery was not giving the juice necessary, couldn't spin the flywheel fast enough to get a spark.
3. Charged battery for a few hours, hooked up, primed bulb, did the starting ritual and after 3 rounds of pumping bulb, turn key to hear the beep, press in and hold 6-8 sec, then crank and still not firing up I tried one last time. On this last attempt, I gave it 1/3 throttle and did not press choke, fired up!

Some observations:
- After probably the 2nd round of priming and cranking I continue to notice fuel/oil mixture leaking down the outside of the motor. Though I can't see any "wet" areas around carbs, VRO, solenoid, etc... (concerning)
- This is the same headache I experienced 2 years ago. Cranking and cranking and cranking and then finally it would start some days. While other days it would start on first turn of the key.
- Once it started up, I took her out and ran her around. Ran perfectly. Full RPM range and restarted every time i turned the key without hesitation!

Next steps:
- Try again tomorrow. Follow the correct starting procedure and see what happens.

I am completely stumped here. There is definitely something up, it should not be this hard to start cold. Maybe carbs need to be rebuilt again? I ruled out the power pack because of how well it runs once it starts, but maybe I shouldn't?

Also, whats the best way to test the alternator stator to make sure I'm getting the charge necessary? I was very surprised to find the battery close to dead after having run the boat 6-7 hours last weekend.
Old 07-15-2018, 06:17 PM
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The OEM red valve with o-ring is a 175158. If the gasket is black, replace it with the better brown colored one. Check the black plastic cap for any warpage or cracks that could cause fuel leaks. If the intake manifolds have black gaskets, replace them with new ones.

Use Champion QL78YC plugs gapped to .030" and make sure compression is good in all cylinders, within 15# of each other.

Use this procedure to start and the motor will fire up if everything is in good shape:

Quick-Start on carb engines - hard starting - Starting procedure when cold
The most important is a large enough capacity battery and good connections (no wing nuts) and cables with the starter is good condition. The motor has to crank over fast enough to generate enough power to activate the magneto ignition system.

If the engine is in good condition and in a good state of tune with properly gapped plugs it should start up easily, Do not use the throttle when starting, it should be left at dead idle.

The built in QUICK-Start feature keeps a higher idle speed until the motor warms up.
Trim the motor all the way in.

Hold the primer ball vertical with the arrow facing up and squeeze until it is rock hard.

Turn the key to ON and press the key in for 3 -5 seconds then turn to START position while still holding it in.

If the motor is set up correctly it will fire off in less than 10 seconds. In cold weather you may have to "tickle" the motor by pressing the key IN momentarily if the motor starts to falter as it warms up.

Once the motor is warm, it should start every time.

To test the operation of your primer (choke) system, run the motor about 1000 rpm and press the key in and hold it. The motor should suddenly run rich and stumble. If it doesn't, then the primer is faulty or the lines are plugged up or it is not getting voltage from the purple/white wire from the key switch or a bad ground.
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Old 07-16-2018, 01:22 PM
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Thanks, seahorse! I went through all the plugs and many were not gapped correctly (way too wide), so I corrected that. Performed the starting procedure and it fired right up!
One thing I did notice was hesitation between when I turned the key to full on and the starter engaged. Something I noticed on the last starter that I just replaced. Could it already be failing? Once it clicked on, the starter sounded very strong.

My next concern is that the battery is getting charged appropriately. I have a multimeter and will check voltage at the battery, where else do I need to check to ensure correct voltage is being supplied?
Old 07-16-2018, 05:16 PM
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Check the batt voltage at the batt terminals. looking for 13.2v to 14.4v with the engine running. Actual reading will depend on rpms and battery state etc. Try lifting the engine to say 2000rpms out of gear and check that the voltage increases unless it is already around 14.4.
Funny as it sounds your start hesitating can be a bad cable end. The corrosion initially reduces the voltage so the starter won't turn but then the current heats the corroded area and sometimes improves the connection. Sounds strange but I have seen this a couple of times. If you have some try putting good jumper cables direct from the battery to the engine earth and starter solenoid main +ve terminal then see if it still does it.
Old 07-17-2018, 12:16 PM
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Another interesting day!!

1. The boat did not fire right up like it did yesterday. Instead, it took about 10 min. In which time I got worried after the 2nd or 3rd key turn and got out my spark tester, NO SPARK. I'm sitting the cursing the sky, go inside to cool off (in south florida, so its miserable out). Come back out, turn water about on, re-pump the primer bulb, disconnect spark tester and just try and it started kick! A few more short tries and she started up, little smokey as always but held great idle.

2. Forgot to mention above but my tach hasn't worked for a long time, maybe 4 years. So I brought the boat up to what I would assume is around 2K rpm and used my multimeter... 11.7 Volts. Not the reading I was hoping for. Tried a few different times to make sure I was getting good contact with the terminals, still 11.7 Volts. Sooo looks like I need a regulator/rectifier.

3. I cleaned the terminals as Aliboy said could be the issue with starter hesitating and wouldn't you know, that did the trick!

Most annoying part of all this, the boat is starting just fine after that initial fire up. Even took her out for 30 minutes and ran perfectly. Why would it not have spark initially and then all of a sudden have spark?? I changed nothing between the no spark and spark.

Off to order the regulator! Hoping to resolve this intermittent no spark BS soon as well!
Old 07-17-2018, 01:47 PM
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A bad rectifier isn't going to cause hard starting. That 11.7 volts might though, the engine might not spin fast enough to crank. The no spark issue is problematic though. It could be something as simple as a bad neutral safety switch or kill switch. Or something as complex as a bad powerpack or worst case bad stator/trigger. If you're not getting spark on ANY of the coils then it's likely either the neutral safety or kill switch OR something is wrong with the stator or powerpack. If it has two powerpacks then it's pretty unlikely both failed simultaneously.
Old 07-17-2018, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim311 View Post
A bad rectifier isn't going to cause hard starting. That 11.7 volts might though, the engine might not spin fast enough to crank. The no spark issue is problematic though. It could be something as simple as a bad neutral safety switch or kill switch. Or something as complex as a bad powerpack or worst case bad stator/trigger. If you're not getting spark on ANY of the coils then it's likely either the neutral safety or kill switch OR something is wrong with the stator or powerpack. If it has two powerpacks then it's pretty unlikely both failed simultaneously.
its not getting spark until it “magically” does. Now that it is today, it will fire up all day. I’ll go back tomorrow and when it decides to not have spark I can do more tests.

For this motor the kill switch is on the black wire with yellow stripe, correct?

Whats the neutral safety switch?
Old 07-17-2018, 04:17 PM
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Need to replace the stator assembly, that will make the charging system work and the tach will work again. Been through this with a couple of these. If the tach doesn't work you are on borrowed time. One more thing on this use genuine omc parts on this.
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Old 07-19-2018, 07:38 AM
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New regulator/rectifier from CDI will be here tomorrow, the current ones top plate looks to be about melted and one of the wires as very hard/cracked/crusty and probably is part of the charging issue. Obviously once installed I will know real quick if I also need to replace the stator.

Back to the intermittent no spark when starting the engine cold. Is there circuitry in the power pack that is used during starting that switches once running? Because once she fires up the performance of the motor is as it has always been, great!

Also, why will it fire up all day after that first one? That is something that is still baffling to me. Been looking across other peoples posts and this phenomenon seems common but the cause does not.
Old 07-19-2018, 10:21 AM
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I'm sure THT posters get tired of hearing this but if the engine seems to run normally after finally starting but the starter is turning slowly and there is less than 12+ volts measured at the starter terminal and engine ground with a multimeter while cranking engine then you most likely have either 1.) low battery charge or 2.) faulty battery cable(s), terminals, connections, etc. which inevitably results in poor starting and charging or no starting at all if voltage at engine drops below minimum required for ignition system (sound familiar?). Previous OP was correct to state that flat cable lugs with wing nuts on marine batteries are not good practice; surface area of both internal and external battery connections are smaller and less secure than post connectors reducing voltage delivered to start and ignition. Also make sure cables are rated for marine use, of sufficient size for length needed and all terminal connections clean and tight. A cable that feels "stiff" anywhere along it's length is most likely internally corroded and will provide uneven starting (i.e delay between turning the key and starter turning) and poor charging performance. Make sure your battery is good/fully charged first then check if your battery to engine wiring system has problem(s) by having an assistant crank the engine while you measure voltage at starter terminals; if reading is < 11.8 volts (+or-) you most likely have a wiring problem.
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Old 07-21-2018, 09:16 AM
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Default engine starts, still not charging...

Originally Posted by LeakinLena View Post
I'm sure THT posters get tired of hearing this but if the engine seems to run normally after finally starting but the starter is turning slowly and there is less than 12+ volts measured at the starter terminal and engine ground with a multimeter while cranking engine then you most likely have either 1.) low battery charge or 2.) faulty battery cable(s), terminals, connections, etc. which inevitably results in poor starting and charging or no starting at all if voltage at engine drops below minimum required for ignition system (sound familiar?). Previous OP was correct to state that flat cable lugs with wing nuts on marine batteries are not good practice; surface area of both internal and external battery connections are smaller and less secure than post connectors reducing voltage delivered to start and ignition. Also make sure cables are rated for marine use, of sufficient size for length needed and all terminal connections clean and tight. A cable that feels "stiff" anywhere along it's length is most likely internally corroded and will provide uneven starting (i.e delay between turning the key and starter turning) and poor charging performance. Make sure your battery is good/fully charged first then check if your battery to engine wiring system has problem(s) by having an assistant crank the engine while you measure voltage at starter terminals; if reading is < 11.8 volts (+or-) you most likely have a wiring problem.
Thanks, LeakinLena!
I went through and re-did all my connections, some were pretty bad. However still not charging, even with new regulator/rectifier. So next up is a fresh stator, anything i should be cautious about when replacing since I have to remove flywheel to do so?

Sidenote, once i charged my battery to 12.5V, the boat fired right up.
Old 07-21-2018, 11:58 AM
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I doubt you stator is bad if it will run with a fully charged battery. The stator powers the ignition , not the battery but it needs to spin fast to do so. Ohm your stator before replacing it. Try disconnecting your accessories from the ignition switch and battery to see if something’s dragging the voltage down?
Heres the values you should see with the two yellow wires plug disconnected and ohmed.

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Old 07-23-2018, 06:32 AM
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Stator ohms within spec as per the image above. Charged the battery for 3 hours and before trying to start boat, read 12.3V before trying to start the engine. The engine started after a short few tries and I took her out and ended up running for about 4 hours. Stopping to dive and re-starting her with no issue... After the day was over reading at the battery was back to the 11.7V.

- Tach still not working (new regulator/rectifier installed)
- Spent many hours replacing old and corroded connections on the battery, the ground strip and various others that I found had rusted over

Old 2 strokes, fun, right? I am not sure what else to check, maybe i need to replace this battery?
Old 07-23-2018, 03:28 PM
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3 hours of charging is nothing. Charge the battery for 12 to 24 hours and then check it a couple of hours after removing the charger. Should be 12.7 - 12.8v. 12.3v is an pretty flat battery.
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Old 07-23-2018, 03:36 PM
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Have your battery load tested at auto zone or the like. Try a NEW fully charged battery. Run it a few hours and re-check your voltage.

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