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Boston Whaler Rotting Transom

Old 06-02-2018, 05:10 PM
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Default Boston Whaler Rotting Transom

My 1998 13’ boston whlaer has a rotting transom, I was lifting the motor for speed reasons and found brown water dripping from through hulls.
Upon research and further inspection, including taking out the through hull, I found the wood surrounding the through hull has turned to mush, the wood around the bolt holds that hold the motor are nice and dry, wood is completely intact there. The transom has absolutely no flex to it and no stress cracks anywhere.
What should I do? Fix, leave it or use the motor and trailer and find a different hull.


Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-02-2018, 05:14 PM
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Try and fix it yourself? Would be bout the smallest transom project you could do. Might be a fun project.
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Old 06-02-2018, 05:17 PM
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I have never done any glass work. I don’t even know where to start other than asking questions here.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:08 PM
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Sell it or give it away and find something else !!
Lots of books and youtube about fibreglass and transom replacing etc so get a six pack pull up a comfy sofa and enjoy being entertained for a while !then see if its what you want to tackle !!
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:50 PM
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Don’t want to take on more projects. May just sell it as is to someone willing to tackle this project and cut my losses.
As much as I like fishing and boating what a PITA.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:59 PM
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Fix it, drill in strategic places get some git rot and 6/10 from WM, follow instructions.
Good luck.
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Old 06-02-2018, 09:06 PM
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Sound like a good deal. Git rot to seal and dry the wood and the 6/10 as much of the voids as possible?

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Old 06-03-2018, 12:15 AM
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No experience with fiberglass work? You will screw it up. For gods sake it’s a 13. You said no cracks and no flex....so what exactly are you fixing?

Take the motor off. Put the boat boat in a garage a week or so with a fan blowing on the holes. Reinstall the motor with a good goop of 4200 in on and around the bolts and washers. Both sides.



wait 2 days.


go boating.
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:11 AM
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You said no cracks and no flex....so what exactly are you fixing?
the wood aroung the bolt holes is dry and solid, the wood around one of the scuppers id gone, not wet,not mush, gone!
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:20 AM
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If you reach up into the void with your index finger, how much wood is gone? I can't picture the spot, but could you slide a screwdriver up inside to probe and find out how far the rot goes? This could be nothing to worry about and very easy to fix. Or...........
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:28 AM
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If you reach up into the void with your index finger, how much wood is gone?
some areas 1/2” some 1 1/2”, but when instart to feel the wood, is not a nice solid block, is wet and flacking.



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Old 06-03-2018, 04:52 AM
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If you Love the Boat and plan on keeping it.....Have it Repaired! Depending on where you're located there a plenty of good shops that can fix it better than New! If you don't plan on keeping it move on!
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:55 AM
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I really like the boat and it serves me well, however, I don't want to spend 3-4k on a boat that is worth 5-6k.
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:24 AM
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Rather a simple repair.about an hour or so of shop time.
or diy.. Drill holes, clean out any rotted wood , dry it with a fan or a lamp.tape over holes inject a thickened resin or epoxy or gorilla glue done.

Last edited by svu; 06-03-2018 at 05:25 AM. Reason: Sp
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Old 06-03-2018, 06:30 AM
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So I am beginning to cosider repairing this properly and on my own. Once I cut the top plate of transom, dig out all the wood and pour nida/seacast, how do I put the top plate back on?
That is actually my biggest fear, the rest of the project seems easy and straight forward.
Ohhh and how much of a PITA is disconnecting everything going to the motor?
Sorry for all the dumb questions, this is my first boat. I have never been around them until now.
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Old 06-03-2018, 06:37 AM
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Posting a few more pictures would be a good start. Not sure why you would be cutting out the "top plate" of the transom if the wood is good at the bolt holes.

If the bad wood is by the scupper I would cut either the inner or outer glass away in that area. Remove all bad wood. Then repair with a pourable product or epoxy.
Then re drill hole for scupper.
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Old 06-03-2018, 06:40 AM
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Dcano,

Go to www.continouswave.com and www.whalercentral.com. Navigate to the forums. Post your question on both sites. The forums on the sites are populated by BW owners and fans who have a world of experience with the boats. You'll get the right answer from those people.
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Old 06-03-2018, 06:50 AM
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I can’t get any good pictures, they all just show a dark hole even if I use a flash or shine a flashlight into it.
Isn’t the “proper way to fix this to cut the top and re-do the hole thing. The currently unaffected wood will eventually rot from the water that has already whicked into it, won't it?
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:36 AM
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Relax, this is not that big a problem. I'd make an effort to dry out the hole for that drain tube as best you can, dig out whatever rotted bits of wood are in there and then assess how big a void is left.

Under no circumstances would I resort to cutting any new holes.
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Dcano View Post
The currently unaffected wood will eventually rot from the water that has already whicked into it, won't it?
No, so long as air is kept out, so is oxygen, thus no more rot.

It is actually very unusual to see rotted wood in a Whaler transom, especially one so relatively new. Many Whaler transoms are wet, but because of how Whalers are built, no air gets in and wood retains its strength.

I suspect the root cause of this situation was a lousy drain tube installation at the factory. I've seen some really careless factory work in this time period.
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