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Are my Risers and Manifolds on their way out?

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Are my Risers and Manifolds on their way out?

Old 04-15-2018, 03:14 PM
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Default Are my Risers and Manifolds on their way out?

I have a 2011 Crusader EFI 325 hp Captains Choice 5.7 inboard. I've noticed rust on outside of my port risers. My old Capt Choice made it 8 years with originals...and somebody was telling me the Capt Choice have special inserts(?) that give them extra life. My older engines use to have issues every 3 or 4 years.

Do these pictures help me make the decision to order parts now? Can anyone tell without taking them apart??

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Old 04-15-2018, 03:38 PM
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Pretty much impossible to tell by looking at a little bit of exterior rust.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:47 PM
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Only way to do it is take them apart. Might just be a gasket, or on final leg.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:52 PM
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A simple rule of risers. ‘ if they are leaking out, they are leaking in.
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Old 04-15-2018, 04:16 PM
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That's hard to say, there could be a small raw water leak above the joint between the manifold/riser gasket. Is this a full closed system with raw water cooled risers? If so then if you have any doubts pick up a pair of riser gaskets and drain the risers, then remove and check the sealing surfaces and the outlet for flaking rust. If more than 5 years in salt water then it may well be time. If you got 8 years that's great! But keep in mind if a raw water cooled riser rots through internally, it can dump raw sea water into a cyl via the center exhaust gas passage. A quick check is to remove the 2 middle spark plugs on each cyl bank and look at the electrodes, any sign of rust on them, or an orange cast to the center electrode insulator, and water's getting in the cyl.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:00 PM
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I remember someone telling me once that if you weren't sure about your exhaust manifold & risers, take them off and drop them overboard. If they float, they're still good.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:14 PM
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Cast iron manifolds & risers are one of those deals where if you have to ask, you already know the answer.

On our Donzi, the exhaust looked great minus a tiny bit of rust at the riser - manifold joint. Tried to take them apart to check it out and change out the gasket, and promptly snapped off a bolt head. That process was repeated for 6 of 8 riser bolts, and 3 of 8 manifold to block bolts. Turned into a pretty big PITA to extract all of that heavy hardware and get the bolts out of the block.

Replaced with GLM aluminum exhaust and dropped 80lbs in the process.

Good luck, use gentle persuasion and penetrating oil and see how it goes. Hopefully it's just gaskets. Clean up all of the joints and get them dead flat with a file before reinstalling.
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Old 04-15-2018, 06:32 PM
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2nd pic says pull it apart and check it with new gasket bare minimum. Rag’s
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:13 PM
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New risers manifolds and gaskets almost $1,200 in parts!!
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Old 04-19-2018, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Re-Bait View Post
New risers manifolds and gaskets almost $1,200 in parts!!
ok..: ?


Boating is cheap and easy... said no one ever.
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Old 04-21-2018, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Re-Bait View Post
New risers manifolds and gaskets almost $1,200 in parts!!
Be thankful you don't have twins
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:06 AM
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From someone who found out the hard way....if they are leaking internally 1200 is a drop in the bucket. In my case I noticed a little drop in rpm at idle a couple times out. Fish one day, trolling, came in no problem. Whent to start the boat the next day and that engine that idled low lost compression and wouldn’t start. Rings were locked because salt from exhaust was in groves of pistons.

Check ebasic power. I always did mine 3-4 years after that and they were 500 per engine at the time.
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:57 AM
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Agreed with above, it is a fact of inboard engine life. Either you pony up and do the exhaust when needed, or face the consequences (salt water damaged engine, if it sits long enough will be beyond repair). I had blown head gaskets on my engine back in 8/2016 with water in one cyl and a mist of water in the other and I was able to save it by quick action, draining out the raw water and fogging the cyls to the max. I finally took the engine apart about 6 months later (but I was turning it over manually and spraying in fogging oil every few months(, and when I took it apart the cyl walls were fine! If ever you have a slow starting inboard, I advise you check for water in the cyls FIRST, not last as many do. It can save it for a top end rebuild which is what I did....



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Old 04-21-2018, 06:53 AM
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ebasicpower, complete kit for Crusader $799
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Old 04-21-2018, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Re-Bait View Post
New risers manifolds and gaskets almost $1,200 in parts!!
A quick google search shows a new engine is about $13,000. Rule of thumb with manifolds and risers is its going to cost you way more to roll the dice than to just spend the $1,200.
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Old 04-21-2018, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Re-Bait View Post
I have a 2011 Crusader EFI 325 hp Captains Choice 5.7 inboard. I've noticed rust on outside of my port risers. My old Capt Choice made it 8 years with originals...and somebody was telling me the Capt Choice have special inserts(?) that give them extra life. My older engines use to have issues every 3 or 4 years.

Do these pictures help me make the decision to order parts now? Can anyone tell without taking them apart??

Attachment 1072709
Attachment 1072710
Attachment 1072711
Attachment 1072712
When is the last time you removed and inspected? Some have gaskets that you need to replace after an inspection. Once they start getting older it may be worth an annual inspection..
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Old 04-21-2018, 04:33 PM
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My boat is going over to the yard as soon as she launches. Guess I'm just going to knuckle under and put in a work order while I have a window of opportunity. If I wait till something happens the costs and lost time in season could be excruciating!!!

Thanks everyone greatly appreciate it
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Old 04-21-2018, 04:41 PM
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Look into OSCO replacement,located in Pennsylvania
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Old 04-21-2018, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Re-Bait View Post
New risers manifolds and gaskets almost $1,200 in parts!!
Your engine is fresh water cooled your manifolds may also be , so maybe you just needs risers .
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Old 04-21-2018, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Re-Bait View Post
My boat is going over to the yard as soon as she launches. Guess I'm just going to knuckle under and put in a work order while I have a window of opportunity. If I wait till something happens the costs and lost time in season could be excruciating!!!

Thanks everyone greatly appreciate it
Whether you or the yard replace the elbows , gaskets, block off plate and all fasteners, I suggest you make sure the gasket mating surfaces are decked flat 1st. Most people and many mechanics don't bother with that but Crusader at least used to include a note in the box with the OEM replacment elbows saying that MUST be done .If you cover the new surface with a marker pen then start with a sharp mill bastard file run flat on the surface you will immediately see what looks and feels flat is not at all. I feel hand filing makes them flatter than sanders.

The only "special inserts" I can think of between FWC Crusader ex. manifolds and the elbows would likely be the SS block-off plate with up-turned edge of the big center exhaust hole. But it's up-turned not to prevent leaking out but to help collect and disperse condensation in the exhaust passage of the elbow before it can drip down into & through the exhaust manifold and into open exhaust valve and cylinder.
Looks like this : https://www.boatersplus.com/crusader...yABEgK4l_D_BwE

Make sure the fasteners are torqued to spec which is probably roughly around 25 ft-lbs ( check on that) , and remember to re-check the torque after several good full heat (runnng) cycles . ( I do that once a year after that too ( fasteners stretch and gaskets compress and overheats amplify that .) Between the re-torqueing and the careful decking flat of the mating surfaces you will greatlly reduce chance of future leakage damage at that joint. -But not prevent gradual clogging of the RW cooling water passages and or thinning of the separation walls.

FWIW- I would have replaced those 2011 elbows 3 yrs ago on the 4 yr preventative maintenance replacement schedule. As mentioned above, waiting until there is a problem can involve other spendier more serious problems when you don't have time for them. And if they are off for inspection, I go ahead and replace and mark that date on the new cast iron .
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Last edited by TTaxi; 04-21-2018 at 11:41 PM.
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