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27' Contender open replace main and saddle tanks.

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27' Contender open replace main and saddle tanks.

Old 10-27-2017, 07:22 PM
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Default 27' Contender open replace main and saddle tanks.

It's me again, Boat is a 98 27' open so these tanks have 20 years on them. I previously posted up a thread for the removal and replace of the 40g reserve tank in front of the console. Pretty straightforward, cut deck, remove tank, replace tank, reinstall deck, good practice for what I'm going to do now.

I put up a shade awning (rain protection) to allow a somewhat controlled area to work.

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Just ordered the (2) 52g saddles and the 105g main tank today from a local shop and will save about $250 from the quote I got from Sunshine plus no tax or shipping and these guys know how to weld my 40g tank looked bulletproof.
Anyone know a good place to get new fuel line, vent and fill? WM pricing is crazy. I reused my existing lines on the reserve install because I didn't have access to pull out, pull in new lines so I will do that when the decks are removed.
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Got the tackle station and lean post removed this afternoon so will start removing batteries, oil tanks, wiring to the side gunnels, and derig the engines, trim tabs, steering lines, 12v for pumps etc. and xducers back to the bilge area. Will pull out the easy stuff first (wiring) so maybe I won't have to derig engines but pull harness back to bilge area, we'll see how that goes. Working solo so I will be taking a lot of notes and pics for the reinstall. Looks like this will be my home for the next month or so, could be worse I guess.
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Old 10-29-2017, 01:15 AM
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Spent a little time today planning my steps in this endeavor and got some plastic over the coaming bolsters and some paper down on the deck not effected by the upcoming surgery.

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I then pulled out the wiring to the side gunnels out of the way,under gunnel lights (front and back), speakers, windless power and controls, and bow nav light.

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Next step was to determinate my existing fuel tank sending unit wiring from the terminal boards and lay into the bottom section to be pulled out later when I remove the console. I then started on one of the 2 main chase ways that go back to the bilge area, I disconnected my two hydraulic lines that go back to the trim tabs along with the indicator wiring going to the display. Next up was the temp sensor (nema2000), bilge pumps, bait pump, wash down pump, and H2o shower pump, and finally the 12vdc feed from the battery to the port motor. Pulled out the smaller stuff first to make way for the bigger cables. I'm thinking I won't have to derig at the engines everything should be able to be pulled back from the console.

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Still have the port engine oil tank feed to pull back along with the 4 shift and throttle cables from the binnacle will hit all those on Monday along with the last remaining chase way which has the remaining oil tank line, 12vdc feed from the battery to the starboard motor, (2) engine control harnesses as well as the 2 transducers. Then unhook the 4 batteries and cables and remove along with the 2 oil tanks and I think that will do it. I almost forgot to remove the front door thats lifted by the electric ram if I would of removed all the batteries I might of had an issue moving the console.
Next step will be to decide on my cuts to expose the screws securing the console to the deck.

Gotta take the day off mañana to change out a kitchen sink for the wife, she's been on the schedule for awhile so I can't blow it off. Will post up again Monday night on any progress I get done. Any guys out there going to be doing this same job if you have any questions or need any info feel free to ask or pm me.
Still looking for a place to purchase new fuel fill, vent and feed lines from a guy on Ebay looks best so far. Later.

Last edited by greenno; 10-29-2017 at 01:21 AM.
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Old 10-29-2017, 05:05 AM
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Following
Old 10-30-2017, 05:44 PM
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I will be following along for sure.

It will help me decide how much of this I want to take on myself when I have to do the same in the next couple of months.

Did I read that right, are you in SD, as in South Dakota??
Old 10-30-2017, 06:19 PM
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Following.
Old 10-30-2017, 06:29 PM
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that would be a costly job if you couldn't do it yourself.
Old 10-30-2017, 06:38 PM
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It doesn't rain in San Diego!


I picked up my tanks on Friday from Vince. Heavy suckers - I had a friend help me unload them and he couldn't believe how solid they were.

I'll be using a Gemlux vent...still need to find a nice fill.
Old 10-30-2017, 07:50 PM
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You'll be glad to know that the kitchen sink replacement job went as scheduled yesterday so the wife is happy and now I can get back to the real work.
Dropped off my deposit at my tank manufacturer for my (3) tanks this morning, should be about 2 weeks until they are done. Ordered my (3) wema sending units last night and should be here in about a week.
Continued my demo inside the console and got the oil tanks and mounting brackets out along with (3) of the batteries and boxes. Removed both oil tank lines as well as the control cables for them and (2) steering hoses that tie in with my autopilot. Had to disconnect and remove my rate compass as well as my pump and disconnect some wiring for my autopilot that would of been in the way. Got both port and starboard engine harness cables pulled out as well, interconnect cables going to the binnacle and key switch I will just tie up out of the way. Removed two xducer cables as well. Still have one house battery hooked up until I actually move the console so I can use my overhead light to see what the hell I"m doing. Disconnect 2 wires feeding my electrical system and that will be the last thing I do before moving console forward.

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Everything is removed from the chase ways except the (4) throttle/shift cables I still need to disconnect from the binnacle, got cover off and mounting screws out but ran out of light.

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Trying to keep things organized and fairly neat so I don't end up with a hornets nest when the deck comes up and the underground portion starts. Will clean up the batteries, boxes, and oil tanks mañana and stow those out of the way until needed again.

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Had to move my lean post and tackle station to the backyard to make room in garage for upcoming items (tanks).

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Going to track my actual costs and labor hours (once a contractor always a contractor) and see how close I get to my guestimate of 6k and 100 hrs. I know more things will probably come up. Gonna finish removal of binnacle cables tomorrow and then start cutting away the inside lip area to expose the mounting screws and hopefully remove and then slide console forward so I can lift rear deck and start cutting the deck for the saddle tanks. Wish me luck.

Oh yeah the SD is San Diego.
Old 10-30-2017, 08:05 PM
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:09 AM
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Ah yes, San Diego makes much more sense. I couldn't understand what that boat would have been doing in South Dakota! 🤡

You might want to think about new oil tank brackets while they are out. We replaced our rusting OEM brackets (which Yamaha wants a ridiculous price for) with stainless steel aftermarket ones. These are much better and no rust after 5 years in the boat (mine are in the bilge area).

We got the Artec's, link below, but you can find cheaper ones if you shop around.
http://www.artecindustries.com/yamaha_oil_tank_bracket
Old 10-31-2017, 10:16 AM
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Replacing those oil tank brackets is a definite yes. Checked out your link for the aftermarket SS ones at $134 ea. I think I will make my own if they cost that much. Going to start removing the binnacle cables this morning and then clean up the inside and secure all the cables out of the way before I start cutting the lip area and expose the mounting screws and hopefully move the console forward. Like Oingo Boingo says "It's just another day". Will update tonight.
Old 10-31-2017, 04:38 PM
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First hiccup this afternoon. After taking the binnacle cover off it looks like there are (4) mounting screws that go through the mounting bracket into the shift assembly and they are ALL seized. SS screws so drilling out will be a problem. Thought about cutting the bracket off from the assembly, which would be easy enough but remounting might be an issue. I was able to loosen 2 of the 3 screws that hold the two halves together but the third one is seized also. So even if I cut the bracket away I still won't be able to separate the two sides to get to the shift/throttle cables. Hmmm....

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Will ponder a bit tonight on next point of attack.
Worst case is determ cables at motors and pull out at console but I was looking at leaving the rigging tubes alone. If I do go that way I could just pull in a pul line from the bilge to the start of the tube at the stern so I won't have to bilge dive to pull in cables again. Don't won't to demo the binnacle as it works fine just won't come apart. Got the screws sprayed with PB Blaster and even tried an impact screwdriver to no avail. Any ideas I'm open. Late.
Old 10-31-2017, 09:45 PM
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by greenno View Post
Replacing those oil tank brackets is a definite yes. Checked out your link for the aftermarket SS ones at $134 ea. I think I will make my own if they cost that much. Going to start removing the binnacle cables this morning and then clean up the inside and secure all the cables out of the way before I start cutting the lip area and expose the mounting screws and hopefully move the console forward. Like Oingo Boingo says "It's just another day". Will update tonight.

Ebay has some cheaper ones in SS

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-outb...xURGi1&vxp=mtr
Old 11-01-2017, 06:07 AM
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If you have to do a fair bit of fiberglass grinding and / or cutting I would recommend covering the engines with atleast some plastic. Don't need them sucking in fiberglass.
Old 11-01-2017, 08:46 AM
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Thanks for the link on the brackets on e-bay for $55 thats a pretty good deal. As far as a lot of grinding I don't think there will be a lot to do the main hatch cover un-bolts and I have to cut out the saddles using a skil saw and then chanfer the edges before glassing the tops back on. But I will probably throw a plastic garbage bag over them after I'm done pulling out the shift/throttle cables so I don't forget later, thanks for the heads up.
Will disconnect at the motors after all and pull shift/throttle cables out through console, opposite of everything else but if the binnacle is a no go in getting apart it's my only option.
Oh well time for a couple cups of joe and then jump on the boat for awhile, only got about 2 hrs yesterday, will hit it good today so I should see a bit more progress. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:38 AM
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Quick update on todays progress. The seized screws won't come out so I moved on to option #2 So I had to to de-rig both motors to pull out the shift/throttle cables through the bilge area and out at the console. Only took about a 1/2 hr to do each engine so not that big of deal.

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I'm sure it will take twice as long to pull everything back in and orientate through the rubber entry grommet. If anyone has to do that you have to pull out the oil line, fuel line, 12vdc +/- first to allow enough room to pull the shift/ throttle cables and then you can pull the cable with the plugs on them. Just the opposite when pulling in I would assume.
So now I have all the cables, hoses etc pulled from the console chase ways to the bilge and gunnel areas so the lines remaining still connected in the bilge, pumps, xducers, temp sensor, trim tab indicator and hydro lines, steering hoses and have pulled out over the port side and secured out of the way until I actually remove the deck and will have to thread them through the opening and deal with those separately. The cables, hoses that I completely removed I cleaned and put in a plastic bin stowed under the boat until time comes to re-install.

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I got back inside the console and removed the remaining battery and box and cleaned up a lot of the mold and grime that was still inside so I don't track it all over the boat. Im glad I covered most of the deck and the sides with paper and plastic I am sure they would of taken a beating through this little job. So I started cutting back the fiberglass inside the console. Measured 2 1/2" from the inside edge all around the 3 sides and then measured 3" more for the area to be removed so I knew where to cut. So I got my paper suit, gloves and respirator on and used my electric Dremel tool with a cutting blade and scored along the lines I had layed out and started removing the top layer of glass which was about a 1/4" thick for the most part. Then I removed the foam underneath to expose the screws that secure the console to the deck. 9 each on the sides and (6) more farther back another 3" along the backside.

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Checked them with a big screwdriver and they all turned great I thought. Half of the screws were wood screws that came out easily enough but the other half were MACHINE screws screwed into some sort of an insert and just spun. So I was able to pry underneath and keep upward pressure on them and almost all of them came out. Looks like about 2 1/2' in length with a big fender washer on top. Two of the screws wouldn't come up so I cut the top of the screw off with the dremel and pushed it down inside the hole. What the F..., why in the world would you install something like that. Maybe I will be enlightened when the consoles moved and the decks up have to wait and see.

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Looks like the deck piece is bolted down first then the console sits on the outside of the lip area and screws through the deck and whatever is underneath it and then glassed over that to cover it all up. Note: You don't need to cut any of the overlapping glass that lays inside the edge area just measure 2 1/2" back from the edge and then another 3" on the sides and then for the rear measure 5 1/2" to 8 1/2" as the screws are farther back in this section. So tomorrow I will hopefully raise the console and move it forward and start pulling the deck up. Looks like the "PIT" inside the console is part of the rear deck hatch cover, will confirm that when I pull it up. Then its remove the chaseway tubes going back to the bilge area and start layout for cutting the deck for both saddles. I can se where two sets of hands would be an advantage but don't have that luxury so will find a way to make it all happen. More pics tomorrow. Later going to bed.
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Last edited by greenno; 11-06-2017 at 12:21 AM.
Old 11-02-2017, 08:22 AM
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great pics and detail. a crappy job to have to do.
Old 11-02-2017, 12:01 PM
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The machine screws were snap toggles that Contender uses to secure the t-top...they will not pull out like the wood screws might under pressure.

https://www.google.com/search?q=snap...w=1680&bih=925

They can be found in stainless steel.
Old 11-02-2017, 12:14 PM
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I bet getting the console up is going to be harder than you think. I've been told that it is 5200'ed down on top of the bolts/screws. It will take some work to break that seal.

Advice:
Cut away the caulking from the console / deck joint first. Then find some wedges you can tap in between deck and console lip. Let the wedges do the work and don't force it or you will have more glass work to do. Tap the wedges in, let them sit, go back tap in further if console didn't break free, repeat as necessary.

Last edited by phigamfsu; 11-02-2017 at 03:27 PM.

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