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Suzuki DF140 Stalls out after running fine - need help

Old 05-27-2017, 09:33 AM
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Default Suzuki DF140 Stalls out after running fine - need help

Suzuki DF140 2004
On my last trip on the water I had been running around and trolling most of the day. No problems. Then, pretty randomly while going from forward to neutral, the engine stalled out. No warning lights or sounds. Turned the key and the engine turned over but did not keep idle - just stalled out. I sat and pondered for a few minutes and tried again several times to start. Every time - turned over, stalled out.
I put the gear in neutral-forward to try to rev the engine and when I pulled back to neutral to try to run it, stall.
I pumped my gas bulb (Which was hard and full) and that had no effect. Strange.

After some time passed, I fired it up again and finally it managed to keep idle and then allow me to go forward and make it home - no RPM restrictions, no lights on or flashing, no beeps or alarm sounds.

Next trip I went out and initially everything seemed fine but after running for about 10 minutes at about 5000 rpm I pulled back to neutral to start fishing and it stalled out. I sat again and tried all of the things above. Finally I was able to put it into neutral-forward and keep it at 2000 rpms and then SLOWLY pull back the throttle and keep idle in neutral - then all seemed fine again.

Decide to come home and right as I got to the dock, I pulled back to neutral and - stall. This time I noticed the Oil Light flashing - this may have been on for a while without me noticing. The interesting thing about this stall was that now I got an audible alarm of 2 beeps, repeating while the oil light was flashing. Hmm??
Tried to start up again at the dock. No good. and after trying, again I got the 2 beeps, repeating, with light flashing.

I can't safely go back out there until I figure this one out. I ran the engine on the trailer with ear muffs and hose. Good tell-tale. I flushed also with hose attached. I suspected there might be a cooling system problem because my son told me he ran aground the trip right before I started having problems. I thought there might be some crap in the intake but I seem to have a good pee from the tell-tale.

Need Help. While I wait for a response I am going to check the oil level and look in my manual for an indication as to why I am getting this alarm and light sequence.

Thanks.
Old 05-27-2017, 09:43 AM
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IAC Idle air controller for the stalling problem.

Oil light flashing is the change reminder.

Most likely the issue.
Old 05-27-2017, 10:13 AM
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+1 IAC , reset the oil change reminder with the key sequence described in the owner manual (cant remember off hand the sequence old age)
Old 05-27-2017, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by debugger View Post
IAC Idle air controller for the stalling problem.
Thanks for the quick reply. Ok - fixed the oil light and beep - most likely just a reminder. I was a little low on oil but not too bad. Will change soon.

The other problem - I don't know what the IAC is or does??? can I fix this easily? I ran it again with muffs on in my yard on trailer - it seems like whenever I am in forward gear and then pull it back quickly into neutral - it conks out. Even in a low forward gear it seems to struggle to stay in gear revving in and out every few seconds -- then pull back to neutral and stalls out.

So what do I do?
Old 05-27-2017, 10:58 AM
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google Suzuki DF 140 IAC valve , you should get a pic of what you are looking for .

its only a bit of dismantling of plastic cowlings and air intakes to get to it,

from the description above you "could" have a vacuum leak somewhere , look around for a broken hose or some other form of vacuum leak , IAC will generally give a code ,
Old 05-27-2017, 10:59 AM
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http://www.google.com.au/url?url=htt...-yK1WVTFAtEm5g here you go
Old 05-27-2017, 11:05 AM
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Take the cowl off and run it, then put it back on and see if it stalls. If so, you need a good aluminum welder to grind out the steel plug and patch weld an aluminum plug in the exhaust housing. It fixed both of mine. It's a small steel plug that Suzukis of that era are notorious for. Google it. The motor is choking out on its own exhaust.
Old 05-27-2017, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1breakinit View Post
+1 IAC , reset the oil change reminder with the key sequence described in the owner manual (cant remember off hand the sequence old age)
Pull the kill switch clip- turn key on- pull on kill switch stud three times until you here beep.
Old 05-27-2017, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Arbutis View Post
Thanks for the quick reply. Ok - fixed the oil light and beep - most likely just a reminder. I was a little low on oil but not too bad. Will change soon.

The other problem - I don't know what the IAC is or does??? can I fix this easily? I ran it again with muffs on in my yard on trailer - it seems like whenever I am in forward gear and then pull it back quickly into neutral - it conks out. Even in a low forward gear it seems to struggle to stay in gear revving in and out every few seconds -- then pull back to neutral and stalls out.

So what do I do?
If you own an outboard you should always buy a shop manual. Its good reading if your not tired and need to get to sleep but everything you need to know is in there. Op- Change your plugs also. It never hurts when an engine is running bad and its cheap to do.
Old 05-27-2017, 02:59 PM
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Numerous people has same symptom and it turned out to be this.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...m-updates.html
Old 05-27-2017, 06:42 PM
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Thanks for all of the replies guys! And quick too.
I took some time to find and access the IAC VALVE but i did it. I couldn't locate a replacement part today after trying auto zone type stores. However, i removed mine and cleaned it with air intake cleaner and blasted it with compressed air. Also, the mesh screen covering the air intake was covered with little bits of debris that i cleaned off. This part of the engine hasn't been opened in many years.
After putting humpty dumpty back together again, it fired it up and didn't stall. I decided to do a water test so i shot out for a quick ride and it passed all tests. Maybe i will get a new part just in case it starts happening again.

Here's the kicker... i dropped a few jigs down in the channel while i was testing the idle and low and behold, i hooked into this 26 inch, 7 pound fluke!

Thanks again to all the kings horses and all the kings men on this great forum!
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:39 PM
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nice! having the same problem with my suzuki,, saw you on the river today. fishing was good today!
Old 08-19-2018, 04:36 PM
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Thread resurrection... I have a new-to-me 2006 DF140. Mine is now cutting out at WOT reminiscent of a pinched fuel or vent line. Doesn't really sputter, just dies (like turning the key off), restarts briefly, dies again, getting increasingly worse till I back out, which usually solves the issue. Not overheating and no other warnings or issues. Seems to be getting fuel and I don't see any pinched vent lines. Tightened all the fuel line clamps and they seem OK. I'll trim the last inch off each clamped section and re-fit.



After reading here, I'll try running it with the cowling off. If it continues stalling, I'll try a remote fuel tank. Any additional advice or recommendations more than welcome. Thanks in advance!
Old 08-19-2018, 08:38 PM
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Just read the first couple replies friend. It's most likely the IAC Idle Air Controller. You've got to find it, remove it, clean it and reinstall it. Otherwise, buy one from Suzuki for about 100 bucks. Good luck. Leave those fuel lines alone though.
Old 08-19-2018, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by stevenwp2 View Post
Thread resurrection... I have a new-to-me 2006 DF140. Mine is now cutting out at WOT reminiscent of a pinched fuel or vent line. Doesn't really sputter, just dies (like turning the key off), restarts briefly, dies again, getting increasingly worse till I back out, which usually solves the issue. Not overheating and no other warnings or issues. Seems to be getting fuel and I don't see any pinched vent lines. Tightened all the fuel line clamps and they seem OK. I'll trim the last inch off each clamped section and re-fit.



After reading here, I'll try running it with the cowling off. If it continues stalling, I'll try a remote fuel tank. Any additional advice or recommendations more than welcome. Thanks in advance!
Cutting out at WOT will have nothing to do with IAC valve. IAC stands for idle air control, it controls the engine speed at idle.

First thing I would do is replace the main inline water separating fuel filter element. At high revs the fuel volume is also high and any restriction in the fuel supply will soon starve it out.

Next, check all your wiring, especially the white wire that should be connected to the start battery + terminal, or to the main battery switch + side for the engine. By check, I mean undo it, inspect the wire and connector for breaks/corrosion/poor connector, clean, reconnect and tighten.

Fuel hoses can deteriorate internally, so flex them around, they should feel pliable, if you feel any hard sections of feel any crunchyness, the insides are stuffed and hoses need to be replaced.

Old 08-20-2018, 04:51 AM
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Yes, thank you and indeed, the IAC wasn't a big concern... I now realize I replied to the wrong thread as I had followed a couple links from here, taking me to one addressing symptoms similar to mine (HangFire's?) that ended up being some kind of corrosion induced exhaust leak. My apologies for the misstep. That's all great advice either way and I really appreciate the quick reply. Thank you! Steve
Old 08-20-2018, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Arbutis View Post
Suzuki DF140 2004
On my last trip on the water I had been running around and trolling most of the day. No problems. Then, pretty randomly while going from forward to neutral, the engine stalled out. No warning lights or sounds. Turned the key and the engine turned over but did not keep idle - just stalled out. I sat and pondered for a few minutes and tried again several times to start. Every time - turned over, stalled out.
I put the gear in neutral-forward to try to rev the engine and when I pulled back to neutral to try to run it, stall.
I pumped my gas bulb (Which was hard and full) and that had no effect. Strange.

After some time passed, I fired it up again and finally it managed to keep idle and then allow me to go forward and make it home - no RPM restrictions, no lights on or flashing, no beeps or alarm sounds.

Next trip I went out and initially everything seemed fine but after running for about 10 minutes at about 5000 rpm I pulled back to neutral to start fishing and it stalled out. I sat again and tried all of the things above. Finally I was able to put it into neutral-forward and keep it at 2000 rpms and then SLOWLY pull back the throttle and keep idle in neutral - then all seemed fine again.

Decide to come home and right as I got to the dock, I pulled back to neutral and - stall. This time I noticed the Oil Light flashing - this may have been on for a while without me noticing. The interesting thing about this stall was that now I got an audible alarm of 2 beeps, repeating while the oil light was flashing. Hmm??
Tried to start up again at the dock. No good. and after trying, again I got the 2 beeps, repeating, with light flashing.

I can't safely go back out there until I figure this one out. I ran the engine on the trailer with ear muffs and hose. Good tell-tale. I flushed also with hose attached. I suspected there might be a cooling system problem because my son told me he ran aground the trip right before I started having problems. I thought there might be some crap in the intake but I seem to have a good pee from the tell-tale.

Need Help. While I wait for a response I am going to check the oil level and look in my manual for an indication as to why I am getting this alarm and light sequence.

Thanks.
I had this same problem on a 115. I had to reset the screw on the IAC. I will see if I can find the instructions.
Old 09-13-2018, 06:02 AM
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Yours was a higher RPM issue? Wow... it's been frustrating. Tried a remote fuel tank, which definitely helped; we timed from WOT to stalling and it was over 4 minutes with a remote tank and around 30 seconds with the internal tank. Ran it with the cowling off. Ran it with the fuel cap off. Tried pumping the primer bulb the whole time.



Has all the symptoms of fuel starvation, fuel filter looks fine, but I'll change it. Also going to change fuel lines and primer bulb.


Runs fine up to and cruising at 3500 rpm, all day. At 4000, after maybe 4-5 minutes, it begins intermittently misfiring and at WOT, about 5000, it runs fine for maybe a minute or two then dies, comes back, dies, comes back.... Symptoms are the same with internal and remote tanks, Ugh.
Old 09-13-2018, 08:43 AM
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Going to watch this one. My 2017 DF115 runs great with gradual acceleration, but if I punch it like I used to, it becomes fuel starved and loses power/bogs down. No stalling, no lights, no beeps and it's worse after the boat sits more than a week in-between trips. Performance improves as the day goes on. Racor is clean, hoses feel flexible, bulb is new.
Old 09-13-2018, 10:19 AM
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Hey there... when you say Racor, is that an external add on filter or am I missing something stock, under the cowling? Not wanting to think about it, but a friend suggested maybe the EFI pump, since it takes longer to stall using the external fuel tank which is located much higher and thus takes much less effort to pull from. When siphoning the internal tank to clean and insure new gas, I was surprised how much effort it took to get the fuel up to the fitting where it exits the hull and goes to the motor.

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