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2001 Sea Fox 210 Re Wire and Upgrades

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2001 Sea Fox 210 Re Wire and Upgrades

Old 02-05-2017, 09:05 PM
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Default 2001 Sea Fox 210 Re Wire and Upgrades

The time has finally come to start the rewire of my boat. I'm tired of losing my gps and having to wiggle the rats nest of wires under the console to get it to hopefully come back on. Not only that but since the current wiring is such a mess troubleshooting is a nightmare and I don't trust any of it enough to take her offshore. I've been browsing THT re wire posts for almost a year now soaking in knowledge, tips, tricks and advice while I slowly gained the courage and know how to tackle my own. I'm finally mostly through with the planning stages and am currently working on getting all the parts / supplies in for this job. I wanted to document this to give back to the wonderful community that has taught me so much.

Here's the breakdown / goal of this re wire:

- Move batteries from transom to center console (also upgrading to AGM)
- Install Marinco 20A dual bank charger (Purchased)
- Install BEP remote battery management cluster (Purchased)
- Install New Custom Panel from New Wire Marine (Purchased)
- Add BEP Fuse Blocks (Purchased)
- Add float switch to bilge pump (Purchased)
- Replace Lowrance M68c with Lowrance HDS 9 Carbon w/ 3D structure scan (Purchased)
- Replace Raymarine VHF with Lowrance Link 8 for NMEA compatibility (Purchased)
- Adding Boat leveler tab locator to Boat Leveler trim tabs
- Installing rgb led Gunwale lighting (Purchased)
- moving All Around anchor light to t top (Purchased)
- installing forward and aft facing spreader lights (Thinking Rigid Marine Dually) (Purchased)
- installing livewell lights (Purchased)
- installing maintenance lights in bilge as well as console (Purchased)
- replacing Pioneer radio with Lowrance SonicHub 2 (Do you recommend getting the universal dock or the sirius wx ant?) (Purchased)
- installing Lowrance 4G radar (Purchased)
- installing Lowrance Outboard pilot (Purchased)

I know it's a pretty long list with a lot of things to still purchase. Again I'm still in the planning stages and am open to any suggestions. I still need to take measurements of wire runs for a few things before I settle on wire gage sizing. I'm also going to attach my wiring diagrams for review/comment from all of you electrical wizards. I do have one question off the bat on the wiring and that is should the VHF be on a 24hr circuit or should it be wired to the fuse panel? I have seen arguments going both ways so I would love to hear more about pros/cons of each.
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Last edited by jrybicki; 02-26-2017 at 04:40 PM. Reason: Added a few items to the Purchased list. Will continue updating as funds allow
Old 02-05-2017, 10:12 PM
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Subbed. Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you. Good luck and look forward to seeing the progress.
Old 02-05-2017, 11:03 PM
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Personal preference on the VHF. I don't like anything but bilge pumps and alarm on 24hr circuit. When I flick that switch I like to walk away assured nothing is on and draining batteries.

Looks like a fun project. Enjoy.
Old 02-06-2017, 05:33 PM
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smccormick Thanks it's for sure going to be a fun project which was one of the reasons for purchasing the boat I did, it was either a boat or another wrangler lol. As far as the VHF goes I was kind of gathering that it was personal preference and the biggest argument for putting it on the normal fuse block side was to prevent battery drain. This is something I would like to prevent as the boat is trailered and covered most of the time anyway. The only strong argument I've seen for it being on the 24hr circuit was in an emergency if something happened to your primary fuse box you wouldn't get power to your VHF though I kinda feel that if that short run of wire is for some reason compromised you have bigger problems and you're probably not going to have VHF regardless. Just curious what other peoples takes on this are especially those that run offshore on the regular.
Old 02-06-2017, 06:49 PM
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Nice that you drew it all out. I am in the process of a similar project. A few questions though.

1) shouldn't the 24 hour panel be connected directly to the battery?

2) what would happen if you turned on all the switches on your panel at the same time?

3) why connect the charger to the motor?
Old 02-06-2017, 07:09 PM
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gfakkema to answer your questions I have reviewed a lot of other re wire posts and the consensus seems to be to only have your main leads connected directly to the battery, everything else that needs a 24hr circuit and charging loop should be connected at the battery side of the switch. Basically still connected "at the battery" just not connected directly to the posts.

I would never run everything on my panel at once, but if for whatever reason I did the power draw of all the items should be below the 30A fuse from the box they also each have their own breakers which could be much smaller but New Wire Marine installed the breakers on my panel and I believe they opt on the higher side as they do not know the specific equipment you will be running.

For your last question the charger is not hooked up to the motor, though from the drawing it does appear that way since the leads are not split. I should probably go back and fix that to make it more clear. I could have probably left the lead from the motor red however it is also connected to the alternator on the motor which provides charging to the batteries, at least that's my understanding of it.
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Last edited by jrybicki; 02-06-2017 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Updated and added Overview drawing to clear up charging loop questions
Old 02-06-2017, 07:44 PM
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Shouldn't the 24 hour circuit be on the line side (battery side) of the switch then?
Old 02-06-2017, 07:50 PM
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Ah good catch I see where you're going with that. You're right in my overview drawing I have it connected to the wrong side of the switch but in my breaker box layout I have it coming from the battery side of the switch. I meant to have it on the battery side lol. I'll get that corrected.

Corrected version Thanks for that catch gfakkema
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Old 02-06-2017, 07:52 PM
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Also, I was just asking about the switch panel because 30 Amps doesn't seem like enough for that kind of load. If that 30 amp fuse blows, you lose all lights and bilge. All of the circuits are already protected by the breakers. All you need to protect is the wire from the panel to the switches/breakers. You know your loads much better than I though. Overall looks pretty good.
Old 02-06-2017, 08:01 PM
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Initially I wanted to go more than 30A and I have a spreadsheet of all the power draw on the boat, however the Blue seas fuse box I'm going to be using only supports 100A total 30A per line so unless I run a different type of breaker specifically for the panel then that's what I'm stuck with. I figured that since everything on the panel has a breaker with lower values that those would go first, although I see what you're getting at, if my total power draw with everything running is more than 30A I lose power to the panel. I ran the panel through the fuse as a redundancy but could have just left it unfused and connected the panel lead to the power lead on the fuse box? Open to suggestions though.
Old 02-06-2017, 09:11 PM
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I see a couple options.

1) tie switch panel to load side of 80A breaker or the line side of the fuse block.

2)split the switch panel into segments (30A?) with corresponding fuses on block.

I'd go option 1. As previously stated, since all those loads are already protected by individual breakers, all you need is protection for the wire feeding the switch panel. As long as you use wire that is rated for 80A continuous, the 80A breaker should protect it.

All probably a minor point, but I'd hate to keep blowing a fuse that feeds lights, bilge etc.
Old 02-06-2017, 10:04 PM
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I have looked into other options for that fuse box and it appears that I could go with a Blue Sea SafetyHub 150 to allow for a larger fuse for the panel. However, I did review a few of the other threads that pointed me in the right direction for the re wire and it appears that pretty much everyone is using a 30A fuse going to their main panel. Once my power draw spreadsheet is completed with all the actual components I will calculate what the max power draw would be on initial start of those components as well as max after its been turned on (after initial surge) and see what the max Amp draw could potentially be and go from there.

On that note, none of my drawings show the yellow wake up runs from most of the lowrance components and my understanding of them is that they can be terminated on a common bus, connect to a switch (I don't have room for this on my panel), or connect to a single termination point. My original plan was to have the HDS 9 control the sonichub2, structurescan3D module and the 4G radar connecting them on a common bus or single termination point. However, the structurescan3D module also has this yellow wakeup line fused as well as the red power feed... so does everyone just leave the inline fuse on the wakeup line? or is there a better way to utilize the wakeup feature without it being switched and still leave it fused?
Old 02-12-2017, 08:04 PM
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Had some time today to go to the boat and take some measurements for the main run of wire from the motor to the console where the batteries will be installed. I also had time to go through the rats nest of wires and label everything, much easier than I was expecting. I'm going to leave the motor, ignition and trim tab harnesses alone as they look and work fine though I am going to install a wire run tube to get them all off the floor. I had a few more parts come in though they were all lighting related. Will be ordering some more new stuff within the next few days.

What I am working with
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Old 02-12-2017, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jrybicki View Post
I have looked into other options for that fuse box and it appears that I could go with a Blue Sea SafetyHub 150 to allow for a larger fuse for the panel.
An easy fix, if it really needs fixing, is to just cut the feed jumpers between the switches at the half way point (load wise) and install a second feed. Use one of the spare fuse locations to feed the second half. Now you have plenty of power.

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Old 02-13-2017, 04:47 AM
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I would love to do this to my boat, I am more mechanical than technical in nature. Creating the diagram scares me more than the work involved. What software are you using to create the drawings?
Old 02-13-2017, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by rotaryjohn View Post
I would love to do this to my boat, I am more mechanical than technical in nature. Creating the diagram scares me more than the work involved. What software are you using to create the drawings?
I am the same way but I wanted to have everything laid out to make sure I wasn't forgetting anything. There's a few programs... I tried smart draw first but didn't care for it, I ended up using MS visio they have a free 60 day trial. I had to play with it a bit to figure it out and I used some other drawings I've seen on THT as a guide to get me started. Once you get past the learning curve it goes pretty quick.
Old 02-13-2017, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rotaryjohn View Post
I would love to do this to my boat, I am more mechanical than technical in nature. Creating the diagram scares me more than the work involved. What software are you using to create the drawings?
You can try TinyCAD too. It's free and supported. Just for doing electrical schematics and drawings. You'll have access to the completed drawings indefinitely.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/tinycad/
Old 02-16-2017, 06:41 PM
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I decided to wire the vhf to the fuse box instead of the 24 hr circuit to prevent battery drain. The updated wiring diagram will be below since I haven't figured out how to upload a file and add it in the text where I want it. I'm also still looking for spreader light recommendations as well as what mounts you used to attach them to your t top rail.

I was also looking at adding a fold down anchor light to the t top... has anybody used this one? or is there something similar that is also clamp on?


I'm also still looking for an answer to how everyone has been hooking up there wake up wires on the lowrance equipment without having them switched. More specifically the structurescan3D module as the diagram shows both the power line and wakeup lines fused.
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Old 02-19-2017, 10:20 AM
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Ordered a couple more things for the boat today. I have a custom helm ebox on the way from boatoutfitters and got a boat show deal on a Lowrance Link-8 from the gpsstore. Still need a few more parts but I'm on track to have this thing finished before summer. Last night I spent some time scouring THT for the Yellow wake up wire issue since no one is responding... I think I have it figured out, though the diagrams for the sonarhub3d show an option for the yellow wire to be fused when connected to the HDS, nothing else does. It appears that the yellow wire from the hds sends a wake up voltage which is minimal to any accessories connected to it kind of acting as a switch and the main power still comes from the DC + for the specific device which will be fused. Please correct me if my understanding of this is wrong. I'm also eyeing the rigid marine dually flood or the Aurora flood that THTer SaltySun is selling. Has anyone ran either?
Old 02-26-2017, 04:39 PM
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My custom helm e-box and link-8 came in this past week, I also just ordered the SonicHub2, UniDock, Folding T-Top Light and 2 Rigid D-Series Marine Dually Flood lights. Everything seems to be coming together nicely though I'm still waiting on the boat leveler trim tab locators to be back in stock to order and so patiently waiting for the HDS Carbon series to release though I could pre order. Until those can be put on order I'm at a stand still on the project for the most part. I'll probably drop the boat off in the next couple weeks to get some gel coat repairs and bottom painted.

I know the topic has been beat to death, the boat currently has an ablative paint that has seen way better days... I trailer my boat and it'd never be in the water for more than a day or two so what is everyone's go to bottom paint for trailered boats?

I also want to install an under deck rigging tube to get the wires off the bottom... Should I just use some 2" schedule 40 PVC and mount it up a bit from the floor?

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