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2001 Sea Fox 210 Re Wire and Upgrades

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2001 Sea Fox 210 Re Wire and Upgrades

Old 06-18-2017, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jrybicki View Post
Umm yeah obviously didn't even look at page 1 or any of the wire diagrams. My bilge pump is connected manually as well as powered by a separate 24hr circuit with an ultra switch. As far as led lights go... I didn't buy cheap junk off ebay... the leds are ip67 rated any all open terminals will be adhesive shrink wrapped.
I understand what you are saying - I am just telling yeah that the lamination on them will need to peel slightly and your done. I have seen this many of times with the IP67 rated as well.
Old 06-18-2017, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by aplusmiami View Post
I understand what you are saying - I am just telling yeah that the lamination on them will need to peel slightly and your done. I have seen this many of times with the IP67 rated as well.
I get what you're saying, I've done what I can to minimize the chances of that happening hoping these ones will last a couple seasons.

I got the unidock really to use my old school iPod on the boat when I'm getting bad reception on the phone or fm radio.

Didn't get as far as I wanted big surprise there lol. Mad props to the guys that do this for a living and are good at it. I ended up having to make a few more harnesses than I expected but I did get everything hooked up minus the batteries. Spent a lot of time routing the wires so hopefully cleaning them up with some ties and adding any drop loops that I need will be fairly easy. Though everything is tough trying to work in that tiny console. I'll for sure have the console done tomorrow and hopefully get the bilge wires cleaned up as well. I'll see where I'm at on time after that and maybe get the stator and rectifier in or wash and wax.

Cheers
Old 06-19-2017, 07:43 PM
  #63  
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Surprise surprise today didn't go as planned, seems to be a common theme with this project. I spent a bit of time trying to keep all the wires separated into groups for where they'd get routed but when I went to clean up the runs I kept finding tangles... at first it was just oh no big deal undo the tangled wire re route it hook it back up. As I kept going the more of a rats nest I uncovered I blame the small space. In reality I should have separated and zip tied each run and then route them and hook them up.

Today I spent largely on disconnecting just about everything and separating and zip tying the runs like I should have to begin with. Stupid mistake and cost a ton of time but lesson learned. I still have one run of wires to un tangle then I should be good to re route everything and re connect. Hoping this time it will go easier and quicker but we'll see. I'll try again after work tomorrow and see how far I get.

Cheers
Old 06-19-2017, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jrybicki View Post
On that note, none of my drawings show the yellow wake up runs from most of the lowrance components and my understanding of them is that they can be terminated on a common bus, connect to a switch (I don't have room for this on my panel), or connect to a single termination point. My original plan was to have the HDS 9 control the sonichub2, structurescan3D module and the 4G radar connecting them on a common bus or single termination point. However, the structurescan3D module also has this yellow wakeup line fused as well as the red power feed... so does everyone just leave the inline fuse on the wakeup line? or is there a better way to utilize the wakeup feature without it being switched and still leave it fused?
I didn't see this question earlier. The yellow wire on my NSS12evo2 isn't connected to anything. The yellow wire on my GoFree wifi-1, is terminated with the red wire and they are on a common fuse. The yellow wire from my Sonichub2 I put on an audio switch in my (new wire) panel. I like this switched, when I want the music stopped right away I can hit the audio rocker switch and it goes quite. I think you could also pair this with the sonichub2 red wire because there is still a virtual switch to power the music on.
Old 06-20-2017, 04:48 AM
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Thanks for your input. I think the virtual switch comes from the yellow wake wire connected to the hds but it still needs a separate power wire. The current plan is to terminate all the wake up lines at a single point and all the power wires have their own place on the fuse panel. Though the issue I run into is none of the wake up lines will be fused and I'm not sure if this will be an issue.
Old 06-20-2017, 07:18 PM
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Successful evening after work today. I was able to get the rest of the wires untangled zip tied and re routed and hooked up. Looks much better and went a lot smoother. Should have done it that way to begin with. I started to mount the wire runs to the console but the sticky zip tie mounts weren't sticky enough to stay in place in a few spots. So tomorrow I'm going to put a few blocks in with the fiberglass resin instead then I'll run the rest of the network cables with some drop loops. Hopefully at least the console portion will be done tomorrow. Then I'll still need to clean up the bilge wire runs and get the grommets fully installed in the t top or add chaff wrap, really anything that will protect the wires since they're in there so tight. Fingers crossed to be able to take her out this weekend but I'm sure she'll throw another curveball or two at me.

Cheers
Old 06-20-2017, 07:27 PM
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Here is how I labeled my wires, just to give you some idea if you are looking?


If you are concerned about fusing the yellow wire, why not just terminate the red and yellow together, I did this with my GoFree wifi. Everything will the powered when the battery is on but it will all fused? Or are there times that you will have the HDS off while running?
Old 06-21-2017, 11:16 PM
  #68  
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Finally!! Super productive night after work finished around midnight... well at least the console. I still need to clean up the wires a bit nicer but it's good enough for now and everything is hooked up. I do have 2 mistakes... the first one is my gunwale leds turn on but won't change color but the fix is stupid I thought the arrows in all the connectors went together but apparently they're supposed to go opposite. And the 2nd one I misunderstood the labeling on a 5 pin led latching switch (bocatech) I thought the + and - were power and ground for the switch but it's for the led I knew nc was normally closed and no was normally open and c for some reason I thought meant color as in the led (I'm blonde leave me alone) it really stands for common. So I have to fix those 2 things tomorrow but other than that everything else works perfect!

Obviously I still need to calibrate everything, clean up the bilge wiring, get grommets in the t top and install the new stator and rectifier then give her a good wash and wax and she'll be good to go.
Old 06-22-2017, 06:08 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by rotaryjohn View Post
I would love to do this to my boat, I am more mechanical than technical in nature. Creating the diagram scares me more than the work involved. What software are you using to create the drawings?
Don't sweat the small stuff. When I relocated my three batteries to the console and rewired the boat, I was quite envious of all the fancy drawings that were on here. I didn't have the software available, so I relied on a legal pad and pencil. It worked out just fine. Trust me though.....I would have preferred the software program!
Old 06-22-2017, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jrybicki View Post
Finally!! Super productive night after work finished around midnight... well at least the console. I still need to clean up the wires a bit nicer but it's good enough for now and everything is hooked up. I do have 2 mistakes... the first one is my gunwale leds turn on but won't change color but the fix is stupid I thought the arrows in all the connectors went together but apparently they're supposed to go opposite. And the 2nd one I misunderstood the labeling on a 5 pin led latching switch (bocatech) I thought the + and - were power and ground for the switch but it's for the led I knew nc was normally closed and no was normally open and c for some reason I thought meant color as in the led (I'm blonde leave me alone) it really stands for common. So I have to fix those 2 things tomorrow but other than that everything else works perfect!

Obviously I still need to calibrate everything, clean up the bilge wiring, get grommets in the t top and install the new stator and rectifier then give her a good wash and wax and she'll be good to go.
If you have any questions please feel free to give us a call
Old 06-22-2017, 09:28 AM
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Thanks for the reply bocatech! I've got it figured out now I think. When I did the initial testing of the switch everything seemed to work right. I have it connected to my bep 701-md battery switch. I only figured out that I had my connections wrong because the battery switch cycles on and off instead of just staying on or off so I reviewed some wiring schematics for the your switch and realized my mistake which I'm sure is causing my issue.

I also swapped the gunwale led connectors around and im still having the same issue... only blue so I have some troubleshooting to do after work to figure out what's going on with that. I also finally figured out how to make the radar option available on the hds... but it says no data available from radar but in device list I can see the RI10 as well as in options it shows my radar serial number... going to double check connections on that and I've seen they have a known issue with the Ethernet cable which I currently have connected to my 3d structure scan box. Anyone have any other t-shooting suggestions on that?
Old 06-22-2017, 11:04 AM
  #72  
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who makes the folding anchor light?.. that thing looks good.
Also.. what make and model is your labeler? getting ready to re-wire myself and would like to label everything..
Thanks in advance
Old 06-22-2017, 03:19 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by kjuncoastie View Post
who makes the folding anchor light?.. that thing looks good.
Also.. what make and model is your labeler? getting ready to re-wire myself and would like to label everything..
Thanks in advance
Got the anchor light from fishonsports.com and the wire labeler is a Brady bmp 21. It's a bit expensive but very rugged and easy to use. I used mostly self laminating wire labels with the exception of the battery cables I used 1/2" vinyl labels then put some clear adhesive shrink wrap over them. Good luck with the re wire, it's a learning experience and something you can take pride in when you're finished.
Old 06-22-2017, 08:27 PM
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Well I was able to get the bep 701md working right just had to change some wires around in the bocatech switch. I was also able to get the radar working, when I re crimped the rj45 I put it on upside down so the wires were reversed oops but easy fix.

The gunwale rgb led lights still only turn on blue, unhooked the strips from the boogey lights controller and plugged them into a different rgb controller and I have full function of the lights. I then snipped off the butt connectors coming from the controller and re crimped new ones on to be sure the connection was tight still only blue. So then I unplugged the splitter and just hooked up one side directly to the controller, you guessed it, still blue. Then I put a meter to the controller getting a bit over 12vdc in the red, green and blue wire so I think maybe something is wrong with the controller. I'm going to contact the manufacturer tomorrow and see if the have any other suggestions.

I'll be finishing up the rest of the maintenance tomorrow and putting her in the water Saturday. I'll be sure to get some pictures of everything.

Cheers
Old 06-23-2017, 07:37 PM
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Well pretty much finished with this project. Got the new stator and rectifier in and got most of the t top grommets in, the rest are too tight to fit so I'll have to come up with some other way of protecting them probably chaff wrap or a sealant. Sorry I didn't take any pics of the stator change it was looking like rain so I was trying to get that done quick. I decided to wait to clean up the bilge wires since I'm still waiting on my tab locator to come in (still on backorder) guess they're having manufacturing delays or something but I'll want those wires in that bundle as well so I can wait.

Also I contacted boogey lights about my led controller, turns out most led strips are anode positive (1 positive 3 ground wires) and their controller is designed for cathode positive (3 positive 1 ground) makes the lights brighter since each main color has its own power and they share the single ground. So I'll keep the blue for now until I order some cathode positive light strips.

Here are some pics of the finished console look

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Cheers for now fellas and feel free to ask any questions on you have or need help/advice on your own project.
Old 07-11-2017, 05:40 AM
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Looks good. Do you have shots of the new wiring? Why did you not spring for new gauges,
Old 07-17-2017, 09:47 AM
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I did not take pictures of the finished wiring because I still need to re work my auto pilot standby switch, I opted for a bocatech vs the provided switch and currently does not put ap in standby. I'm also having some issues with my point 1 not sure if it's due to calibrating it in a river with current or I'm getting magnetic interference from chartplotter and regular compass. I'll have to play with it a bit more so it's not completely pretty right now but better than it was. Also still trying to come up with a solution for the t top bundle as it's too tight to fit a grommet, I'll be trying chaff wrap or just getting some atv sealant around the bundle. But I'm currently on a business trip for another 4 weeks so I was only able to get the boat out 3 times for testing.

I opted to keep the original gauges because I was on somewhat of a budget and was unable to find another tach with the engine self check lights. I'm still also waiting on my trim tab locator to come in... it's been on backorder for about 4 months and delivery keeps getting bumped out because of some manufacturing issues. It would look cleaner with new gauges but I'm content with what I currently have.

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