Sk8Surfr

So, I bought this:
https://buy.fellmarine.com/mob-basepack.html

Installed today and I cut the 4 wires (2 white and 2 black) from my yamaha kill switch and combined the white wires and hooked up to the Orange wire on the MOB and black wires to black

The boat runs and the kill switch works... BUT now when I turn one engine off with the key the other dies as well...

No idea why

Dacman

Sounds like when you spliced the wires together you also combined the kill functions on key switch. I would call Fellmarine for tech support and a fix. Could be easy as changing a couple of wiring connections.

Sk8Surfr

I guess I'll call them monday. didn't think the 2 white wires and 2 black wires coming from the kill switch would have anything to do with the key switches! But I guess maybe they do.

snagged line

You said four wires were on the switch. My guess would be that two wires went to port motor and two for starboard. If you accidently crossed them. when you switch off port motor. the crossed wire grounds the other motor......

On my single engine . the kill switch makes a path from terminal "M" to "M" that grounds motor when either is switched off or whenever the Lanyard is pulled. ( I only have two wires for single motor)...
If you crossed the black dotted wires on the diagram, port key switch would ground starboard motor and visa versa....... Or that is my guess??? Good luck.

Dacman

I think you're going to have to separate the whites and blacks again with a dp dt relay and let the kill switch energize it on a normally open pole to kill them both with a kill call from the control but will let you isolate a kill from each key switch if that makes sense? Nothing wrong with calling tech support. 30 years in my field and still calling tech for a new product on occasion.

clv

They have a Yamaha engine page you can pull up under support. "If you keep your existing kill lanyard wire the Fell Orange and Grey wires in parallel to Yamaha Black and White" noting that for " Multiple Engine Configurations"

"If you have several engines on your boat and your boat is already fitted with a kill switch you can connect
the wires as described above to the two existing signal
wires leading to the existing mechanical switch in
your helm or throttle. You may notice that the existing
wires consists of a splitter component on the wires.
This splitter must not be removed, as this splitter
translates the signal from the single mechanical kill
switch into a kill switch signal for multiple engines. You
should connect the MOB+ xHUB wires above this split-
ter, i.e. on the last two wires leading into the existing
mechanical switch installed in your helm."

Sk8Surfr

Ya, I did that connection problem is my mechanical kill switch had 4 wires - 2 white and 2 black. Just to test I disconnected the kill switch to make sure it wasn't something else and the engines switches operate independently. Maybe I should only hook up 1 white and 1 black? I assumed that would only kill one engine as one white/black went to port and other starboard.

clv

Post up the solution when you get it. I should have mine soon, and will be installing to twin Yamaha. I will have to see how many wires enter the kill switch.

Sk8Surfr

Will do. Does your ignition switch look like this>

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...WyVRoCd2vw_wcB

If so, you'll have four wires too I'm sure.

EDIT - ack, looks like that switch above for 2006+ only has two wires coming from the kill switch.... Mine is 2002

Here is my switch:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...570-07-00.html

The kill switch:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/ya...575-00-00.html

And the wiring diagram:
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/ya...A/620302610034

clv

Sk8 I have a main switch with lanyard and a second panel with twin push button start/stop.

Dacman

Here is what I would do to solve the problem. Can only post one schematic at a time. See if this makes sense to anyone other than me.

Dacman

Edit, this one.
https://www.amazon.com/TE-CONNECTIVI...rds=dpst+relay

Dacman

This would isolate your engines by the key off but kill them both at the same time by a kill switch signal.

porthole2

This any help?

https://www.fellmarine.com/wp-conten...aha_230816.pdf

Sk8Surfr

Thank you for the drawing Dacman. I will order that relay. But since there are 3 poles on each side - which wire goes where? Your drawing has 4 and 2.

clv

Dacman looks like that would work for the OP (Sk8). Maybe using two Bosch style SPDT relays with wire leads and mounting hole built in for use in a boat console. I looked at mine and I have six wires entering the lanyard kill switch. I will have to call them. I guess a 3PDT relay might work, 3PST are very expensive. Not too eager to be the first to slice into my year old harness on a hunch.

Dacman

Sorry I edited the link. This one.

https://www.amazon.com/TE-CONNECTIVI...iglink20417-20



Call tech support however, they may have a better solution. But this will work if not.

Dacman

I don't know why I keep labeling starboard to the left? Not that it matters , but will bother someone here I'm sure. Also , the Amazon picture shows 24 volt coil but the specs say 12 volt as should be.

Sk8Surfr

CLV - check the rear of your kill switch - looks like the new ones are 2 wire so it should be pretty straight forward for you. a $20 relay is cheaper than a new switch panel for me!

Sk8Surfr

Reply from FELL:

There are two options for this wiring, both of them are quite easy to do;

-Relay
--As Dacman suggested on the forum, a DPST relay is a good solution to switch two engines separately without mising any of the ignition systems. Make sure you get a normally closed (NC) relay, which will connect the kill switch wiring when it is not powered, and disconnect it to let the engine run when powered. Then the Gray and Blue wire is used from the MOB+ for the power signal to the relay. (These two wires are disconnected when MOB+ is in idle state, and connected when MOB+ is in active state).

-Diode splitter
--This is a harness which effectively takes the multiple wires and connects them separated by diodes so that you end up with only two wires. Mercury has this as a standard part in their inventory. I have sent a request to Yamaha if they have it as a standard part to order as well. Probably the diodes from Mercury would function well on Yamaha too.