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Yamaha Kill Switch wires

Old 01-01-2018, 11:18 AM
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The kill switch is normally open. When the lanyard is pulled the switch closes. The white wire is then electrically connected to the black wire. The ECU, seeing that the white wire has been grounded, stops the motor.

Some twins in years past used two separate kill switches on one panel. The operator had to connect two lanyards to himself. With one kill switch, connected to two motors, the operator only needs to connect one lanyard. The one lanyard activates two separate kill switches. Or perhaps a dual pole single throw switch.

Note that when the key is turned to the OFF position, the same thing happens. The white wire is grounded to the black wire.
Old 01-01-2018, 11:30 AM
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Yes I see that the whites have continuity to ground with key off. You would think it would be ok to just connect the MOB in parallel like you do just a single engine. I think there could be a problem if you connect them together with the engines both running with the charging system or something else maybe? If you were limping back in on one engine due to electrical failure it looks like connecting the whites together could create issues. Am I overthinking this? I can clearly see they went to a lot of effort to separate engines when they are running or with the lanyard pulled which they wouldnít be running anyway. It seems that a double pole relay interrupting the white wire and feedin it ground when MOB is active would be my safest bet. What say you?
Old 01-01-2018, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Fwpratt View Post
I doubt there would be any other effect except the main one:

connecting the whites together means that turning either engine off with the keyswitch also turns off the other.

You probably do not want that.
remember, there is only one key switch. To shut off one of the two you press the start stop button...
Old 01-02-2018, 01:56 PM
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If the kill wires are not separated then when you turn one engine off at one of the two start/stop controls, they will both shut off. Or if you don’t have both controls set to start, neither will run.
Old 01-02-2018, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
If the kill wires are not separated then when you turn one engine off at one of the two start/stop controls, they will both shut off. Or if you donít have both controls set to start, neither will run.
Yes, I see that. I also want to keep the engines separated while running with no chance of one back feeding the other. My double pole relay will allow this. The only other thing I wanted to know from Fell was how this thing really works. I just checked and they closed at 4pm eastern time...ARGGG!! It states everywhere to wire the positive with a "main switch" inline. I'm curious as to know why not just put it on ignition power? If I wire a relay and have the factory set up on the "NC" contacts and the MOB is on a "main switch" instead of ignition, my relay will be energized the entire time, or do you hit "Stop" on the MOB everytime. Is there a reason it cant be wired to ignition? I will have to call them in the morning now
Old 01-04-2018, 12:21 PM
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You should be able to connect it to the accessory output of your ignition switch or engine on contact. The mob is only requiring 1 amp. Hook it up to the feed that powers your gauges circuit. Piggy back off the first 12 volt positive gauge feed or buss which ever you have.
You donít want it powered up with ignition off or it will bleed down the battery.

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Old 01-05-2018, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
You should be able to connect it to the accessory output of your ignition switch or engine on contact. The mob is only requiring 1 amp. Hook it up to the feed that powers your gauges circuit. Piggy back off the first 12 volt positive gauge feed or buss which ever you have.
You don’t want it powered up with ignition off or it will bleed down the battery.

Attachment 1034769
I finally received a return call from Fell. They said it's fine to hook to ignition it just takes a few extra seconds for the bluetooth connections to happen when you switch on key. That's fine as there is always some time before I hit start switches after switching key on. The only other thing is, I have Yamaha 6YC display, not gauges. The key switch has two separate ignition feeds separating the twins. I would like to know how you can get just switched power when key is on regardless if one of the starting is not connected. This is very strange. I will have time tomorrow to get back to it and come up with something. Thank you for the help!
Old 01-06-2018, 08:36 AM
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Let us see a picture of that console,
Old 01-06-2018, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
Let us see a picture of that console,

Old 01-06-2018, 12:19 PM
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I would say hook up the MOB power supply to red and black on the key switch. Should only be powered when key is on. The yellow on key switch closes power to the start stop switch when on for starter solenoids.
Get your MOB simply powering up this way when key is on and I can walk you thru the relay wiring afterwards.

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Old 01-06-2018, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dacman View Post
I would say hook up the MOB power supply to red and black on the key switch. Should only be powered when key is on. The yellow on key switch closes power to the start stop switch when on for starter solenoids.
Get your MOB simply powering up this way when key is on and I can walk you thru the relay wiring afterwards.
My ignition switch has two red wires. The switch completely isolates the engines. I elected to just hook it up to my ďMainĒ switch that powers the network. If I leave that switch on without charger plugged in the house battery will die anyway. If there is any problem all I have to do is pull the relay. It works pretty good with the exception that the green light in the switch flashes. I was kinda torqued about that as I donít need a green flashing light! But..while Iím typing this, I see that it must time out as it has now stopped flashing and my relay is not energized and Iím in run condition. I left the factory kill switch wiring in place and tagged onto each white wire and took to my double pole relay. I jumped the ground that I used for the coil to the common contacts. I connected the wires I tagged with the factory wires to the NO contacts. I wired the plus 12 to coil to the orange wire of MOB. I connected the MOB common with the same plus 12v I used to power MOB. It works great! Thanks for your help!





Old 01-06-2018, 02:43 PM
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And Iím happy to report that it works very well!! As you can see, I placed a bucket a few feet off the back of the boat and threw the bracelet in it and within seconds it alarmed, activated my relay and closing the ground circuit to the motors!! Finally..I got it! All I have to do to bypass it is simply pull the relay.
Old 01-06-2018, 03:59 PM
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Glad you got it working and tested.
Old 07-02-2018, 11:32 AM
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For twin-engine application, which set up would provide the highest reliability; a relay as describe above or the multiple engine harness that Fell marine sells now for Yamaha. Reason I asked is that both, my local WM store and Fell Marine website are out of stock. The relay however can be bought in just about any electrical part outlet. I would delay the install IF the Fell Marine harness proof to be the most reliable (given that it appears to be solid state). Thanks in advance!
Old 07-02-2018, 02:35 PM
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The relay I recommended was encapsulated. I would say that the less moving parts the more reliable. Wait for the right kill switch if you have the time.
Old 07-03-2018, 06:45 AM
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Thanks Dacman. I found a Fell Marine multiple engines harness at Amazon. Completion of the install and testing will have to wait until I received the harness.
Old 07-03-2018, 09:21 AM
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Good solution.
Old 05-12-2019, 05:06 PM
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Iíve been wanting to add the Fell MOB+ to my boat with twin inboards, each with an ignition switch and no kill switches. Thanks for all the info to make it possible. Iím thinking I need the DPST-NC as suggested by Fell for my configuration. Anyone have a brand/source to recommend?

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