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Kenner 23V Project Boat

Old 08-06-2016, 10:52 PM
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Default Kenner 23V Project Boat

This is my first thread (on any forum) so bare with me. I have been using thehulltruth for about the last 10 years for doing all my boating research. I figured I would share my experience with everyone else because I sure have enjoyed reading the other Kenner restoration threads. I recently purchased a 2003 Kenner 23V and I have had a blast fixing it up the way I want it. I have been working on this boat for about the last month and a half on and off between my busy work schedule.

And for the record I don't have much real world experience doing the things I will be showing you in this post. But I am able to do it all from what I have learned from both this site and YouTube. So feel free to chime in if you see me doing anything stupid.

So let me start from the beginning and get y'all up to speed....

Last edited by mdees88; 02-08-2017 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:15 PM
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First looks....

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Last edited by mdees88; 08-13-2016 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:24 PM
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After scrounging up some benjamins I get to haul her to the house....

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Last edited by mdees88; 02-06-2017 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 08-06-2016, 11:34 PM
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Here's a couple pics back at the house....

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Old 08-06-2016, 11:44 PM
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This boat has the large stand on console. The previous owner cut off the front of the console flush. It used to be molded to accept an ice chest for a front seat.

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So my first purchase was a like new Engel 123qt cooler that I found on craigslist which fits perfectly in front of the console...

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Old 08-07-2016, 12:01 AM
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Time to re-wire. Out with the old...

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And in with the new...

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I used 16/2 Ancor marine grade duplex boat cable for my stern light, both livewell pumps, and my trim tabs (I probably should have used 12/2 for the tabs... I might replace down the road). I used 14/3 triplex for the bilge pump...

Last edited by mdees88; 12-22-2016 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:22 AM
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All the hoses and thru-hull fittings are new. The boat had two old Johnson livewell pumps and no bilge pump in it. I installed a new Johnson bilge pump and wired in a Rule float switch. I am wiring it so that when the battery switch is on it will run in auto off of the float switch. (If I ever had a problem with the switch staying on I could pull the fuse and still be able to run it manually.) I replaced the motor on one livewell pump and completely replaced the other pump. (UPDATE: the old housing was cracked and I ended up replacing it too.. so two brand new pumps) I stayed with Johnson for all the pumps. When i removed the livewell pump I went ahead and put some resin in the cutout in the transom. Just trying to do a little preventative maintenance...

All my connections in the bilge are heat shrink butt connectors (shrunk using a heat gun). I liquid electrical taped over the connectors and fastened the wires to the bottom of the deck to keep the connections high and dry.



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Last edited by mdees88; 02-08-2017 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 12:51 AM
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This console needed some serious attention.... here's what i started with

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So my plan is to completely clear off the top of the console. I want to be able to stand up there without having anything to trip over. The boat originally had a grab rail/burn bar but the previous owner did not have it. I am going to remove all the mounts for that rail and fill in all the holes on the console. (I have an idea for a "crows nest" style top I would like to mount to the console down the road.) I am going to have to flush mount a bottom machine to keep the top of the console clear. I removed everything from the top and got my dremel and rounded out all the holes to better accept the resin and epoxy. Here it is after removing all that junk from the top....

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I laid some fiberglass under all the big holes then I filled them up with fiberglass and resin...

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Last edited by mdees88; 02-08-2017 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:10 AM
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So my plan was to fill in all the holes and all of the textured surface. I wanted to get everything smooth and then paint it the same color as the floor with the splatter job. I was going to add some grit to the paint. That was the plan anyway.

I mixed up some Marine Tex epoxy and got the holes filled in..

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Then i sanded everything down and filled in some low spots...

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Added some more epoxy and another pass with the sander and its starting to look like something....

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Last edited by mdees88; 08-07-2016 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:17 AM
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Looks like a good start
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:20 AM
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The decals on the side were starting to wear off. They looked a little rough...

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I scraped them off with a razor blade and some lighter fluid. I bought a McGuire's fiberglass restoration kit. It came with an oxidation remover, a polish , and a wax. I did a little wet sanding on some of the bad spots and I used the restoration kit. It can defiantly use some more sanding but I think it turned out pretty good....

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Last edited by mdees88; 08-07-2016 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by nvme9361 View Post
Looks like a good start
Thanks I am going to try to get some more pics uploaded tomorrow which should catch me up to where I am at currently. I am just about finished up with the console and I am hoping to get a motor installed in the next 2 weeks...
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:02 PM
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So I ordered a carbon fiber switch panel with lighted contura switches from New Wire Marine. It holds 10 rocker switches and comes with circuit breakers. You get to choose which switches and what size breakers you want. It said carbon fiber "look" on their website. The panel is made out of some sort of plastic and has a film of printed carbon fiber on one side. It does look good but it is a little shinier than I had imagined. Should work fine.

(UPDATE: If I could do it again I would go with the "etched" contura switches instead of the "printed" ones. The printed ones light up when you turn the switch on but you cannot tell what the switch is in the dark. Nor can your read what the switch is once it's lit up. You can wire the etched switches to light up when you turn your nav lights on and you can read what they are. Also I have no issues with the carbon fiber but as I said it's a little glossier than I like. I would probably try the "brushed ebony" if I did it again.

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Here it is installed on the console...

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Last edited by mdees88; 02-19-2017 at 04:14 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:32 PM
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I ripped out the old fuse block and noticed that where it attaches to the inside of the console is very small. I have to install a fuse block, negative bus, and a couple circuits breakers. There was just not enough room.

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So I made a panel out of half inch treated plywood to attach all my stuff to.... then I will attach the panel to the console.

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I am using a Blue Sea 5026 12 circuit fuse block with a negative bus, a Blue Sea 2300 10 gang common busbar, and two Blue Sea 285-series circuit breakers. One is for the cranking battery. I plan on using it as a battery disconnect as well. The other is for the trolling motor.

So my plan is to wire the bottom machine, vhf radio, the "auto" side of the bilge pump, a 12v outlet, USB outlet, trim tabs, and the jack plate to the fuse block. The bow and stern lights, courtesy lights, livewell pumps, "manual" side of the bilge pump, horn, and the areator will get wired to the switch panel. They will be protected by the circuit breakers on each switch. I will wire all of their negatives to the common busbar. I believe this will work please correct me if I'm wrong....

Last edited by mdees88; 02-08-2017 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:16 PM
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Nice project looks like your off to a good start!
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:19 PM
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Keepem coming
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:59 PM
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Personally, I would not use a Circuit Breaker as a Battery Switch. The continual switching could wear it out and have it fail when you need it to work.

You can buy a Blue Sea M-series simple On-Off Switch for about $25. Cheap for something designed to do the job. Install that CB between the battery and the switch.

Otherwise, I love these hulls. They move quickly when for sale and are a perfect design for the Louisiana marsh and coastal use.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Marshfly View Post
Personally, I would not use a Circuit Breaker as a Battery Switch. The continual switching could wear it out and have it fail when you need it to work.
That thought had crossed my mind... I ran my previous boat with a similar setup (using the breaker as a switch) and it worked fine but will consider using an actual battery switch along with the breaker.

I primarily fish mobile bay and occasionally in the bayou, but I'm looking forward to running offshore. This boat should fit the bill.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:15 PM
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There really isn't a good place to mount a typical rod holder for trolling. I can't do a flush mount through the rear boxes because I am using them for livewells.

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So I yanked these rod holders off my previous boat before I sold it. They should work great on the Kenner. They are Big Jon aluminum rod holders. Bolted them through the gunwale.

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here's some better pics

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Last edited by mdees88; 12-22-2016 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:20 PM
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those are great hulls. if i out live the pathfinder i'm in now, i'd like to get my hands on a 23 Kenner. i think 08 was the last year they made em. i did some work for a charter capt on his trailer and had to take the boat around to my dock, it had a 250 zuke on it. light and quick, i loved it. when i took it back around to put it on the trailer i played around a little more----very impressed.
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