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Battery charging small center console

Old 08-03-2016, 04:00 PM
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Default Battery charging small center console

I have a 22-ft CC docked at my home. The automatic bilge draws from either one or both batteries. I have an ON/OFF switch.

To keep the batteries at full charge all the time and eliminate risk of a dead battery/no bilge pump, what is the best method for charging? These small boats do not have shore power... I have a regular 12v car battery charger and extension cord. Is that my only option? I wouldn't want to leave that on all the time.
Old 08-03-2016, 04:03 PM
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hook up a weather proof battery tender and you should be good to go
Old 08-03-2016, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by harley'sboat View Post
hook up a weather proof battery tender and you should be good to go
Is there a proper connection to charge both batteries simultaneously, with ON/OFF in OFF position....ie. connect to negative terminal on battery #1 and positive on #2?
Old 08-03-2016, 04:16 PM
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So something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GEN2-Waterproof-Battery-Charger/dp/B003JSJS5I

I guess I'd need a 2 Bank charger for two 12v group 24 batteries...so 85 amp/hr each I'd need at least 17 amp rating, say 20 amp to be safe. What brand should I go with?

Last edited by jncasey; 08-03-2016 at 04:40 PM.
Old 08-03-2016, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jncasey View Post
So something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GEN2-Wat.../dp/B003JSJS5I

I assume I'd need a 2 Bank with a specified amperage per bank...not sure what else?
I've used a NOCO in a similar setting for the past year - the "8 amp" model is more than adequate to keep the batteries fully charged.

I leave it plugged in constantly whenever the boat is at the dock.

The battery switch is off - but the NOCO leads go directly to the battery terminals (it comes with inline fuses on the + leads)

Mating it with this made for a nice installation; fit perfectly in place of a rodholder grommet under the gunnel:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-Genius-G.../dp/B009ANV81S

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Old 08-03-2016, 04:50 PM
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Looks like I'll be buying the onboard charger 2 Bank 20 amp right now. I use my boat often and check the bilge every other day or so. However, my neighbor's boat sank last night due to dead battery and no bilge able to run. He lives out of town. We've had a ton of rain this week. Boat looked fine at 10 PM last night. Sad sad day for him.

I won't let that happen to me!

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Old 08-03-2016, 05:48 PM
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Sounds like you have found your solution but keep in mind: Automotive chargers don't have isolated grounds and can cause electrolysis damage and worse yet, leak enough to electrify the water and cause electrocution death to surrounding swimmers.

Automotive chargers should never be used on a floating vessel.
Old 08-04-2016, 07:58 AM
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Get a smart charger. If you can, go dry mount like a Guest cruising series or Pronautic p. These can charge while the bildge is running in extreme cases. Otherwise a prosport would be fine.
Old 08-04-2016, 08:08 AM
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I have already purchased a NOCO Genius GEN2 20 Amp 2-Bank Waterproof Smart On-Board Battery Charger last night.

I understand dry mounts seem to be more reliable... Hopefully this waterproof NOCO unit will suffice.
Old 08-04-2016, 08:11 AM
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I had a 20' CC with dual batteries for almost 10 years and didn't need a charger. Used the radio and electronics all the time. At least once weekly usage was enough for the alternator to keep the batteries charged. I think at some points it was every other week. I think I only changed the batteries two times over the 10 years and the second time was in the last year I had the boat. I did trickle charge in the winter though when the batteries were in storage.
Old 08-04-2016, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by joshs View Post
I had a 20' CC with dual batteries for almost 10 years and didn't need a charger. Used the radio and electronics all the time. At least once weekly usage was enough for the alternator to keep the batteries charged. I think at some points it was every other week. I think I only changed the batteries two times over the 10 years and the second time was in the last year I had the boat. I did trickle charge in the winter though when the batteries were in storage.
But was your boat docked in a slip where your bilge was constantly drawing off your batteries?
Old 08-04-2016, 08:22 AM
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Theoretically your bank charger should have enough amps to power a bilge pump indefinitely if the vessel begins taking on water. I have a 3 bank charger that will devote all 15 amps of charging capacity to whichever battery needs it, and my bilge pump doesn't draw 15 amps so I assume it would run for as long as necessary regardless of the charge state of the battery.
Old 08-04-2016, 08:51 AM
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How about a solar charger on the t-top keeping the batteries topped up?
Old 08-04-2016, 10:48 AM
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I'd also like to hear opinions on solar panels. Some are dirt cheap compared to a nice trickle charger and ugly cords
Old 08-04-2016, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jncasey View Post
But was your boat docked in a slip where your bilge was constantly drawing off your batteries?
yes. survived major storms including sandy and irene. im actually curious on the calculation of how long a battery would last during a multi-day rain storm... i may have been cutting it close... i dont know... but i never needed to jump start... my new boat needs shore power so no guessing now.
Old 08-04-2016, 01:20 PM
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Well I can tell you this...I replaced my batteries last season and usually run my boat twice per week.

Last weekend I turned my battery switch to #2 and the engine would not crank. Then turned to #1 and it fired right up. This tells me the bilge pump must be drawing only off of battery #2?

I always alternate boat usage between #1 and #2 positions; however, I have heard from others than position #1 will charge both batteries... Not sure how to test or verify this? I also cannot verify, physically, which battery corresponds with #1 and #2.

You'd think the bilge pump would run both batteries dead as they should be wired in parallel....
Old 08-04-2016, 01:35 PM
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Don't these boats have self draining decks with scuppers? Even my little 15' Hobie Power skiff can take a ton of water without flooding the bilge.

It's my opinion that a little 50 dollar electric bilge pump should be considered a secondary device, with a self draining deck the primary way to get rid of water, whether it's rain, spray, or a wave over the side. If it does not have this, like my little Donzi speed boat, it should be stored out of the water. JUST MY OPINIONS.
Old 08-04-2016, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jncasey View Post
Last weekend I turned my battery switch to #2 and the engine would not crank. Then turned to #1 and it fired right up. This tells me the bilge pump must be drawing only off of battery #2?
Could very well be. It's typical (and I believe it's even a code requirement) to wire your bilge pump(s) directly to a/the battery. Since it's a safety item, you don't want someone to unwittingly turn the battery switch to "OFF" & render you susceptible to sinking.

Personally, I install redundant bilge pumps in my boats. In my (bigger) boats that have 2 batteries, I wire one bilge pump to each battery. That way, if one battery or pump goes bad, I still have another. If I ever see just one pumping out, I know there's a problem with the other.

Originally Posted by jncasey View Post

I always alternate boat usage between #1 and #2 positions; however, I have heard from others than position #1 will charge both batteries... Not sure how to test or verify this? I also cannot verify, physically, which battery corresponds with #1 and #2.
Unless you have something besides the standard 1/2/ALL/OFF battery selector switch, you have been misinformed. Generally speaking, chargers are hooked up directly to the battery terminals, not through the selector switch. If you're talking about charging from the engines, then you can only charge the batter that you have selected. (Again, if you have something different than a standard switch, yours could charge differently.)

The easiest way to tell which batter goes to which selector number, just unhook one of the positive terminals. Try batter 1 & 2 to turn over the engine. If one turns it over and the other won't you'll have your answer.

Originally Posted by jncasey View Post

You'd think the bilge pump would run both batteries dead as they should be wired in parallel....
I disagree. It's possible you have two batteries in a parallel wiring scheme, but that would make the battery selector unnecessary. If you set your selector switch to "BOTH" they are essentially in parallel, but that's it. As for the bilge pump, they shouldn't be wired to the selector, but instead to a/the battery itself.

One reason it's a bad idea to try to wire a bilge pump to two batteries in parallel (assuming you have a battery selector) is that the failure of one battery can bring the entire system down. That is to say, if one battery has a hard internal fault (it goes dead with 0V), your bilge wiring creates a direct path for the dead battery to drain the good battery.
Old 08-04-2016, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TipDS View Post
Could very well be. It's typical (and I believe it's even a code requirement) to wire your bilge pump(s) directly to a/the battery. Since it's a safety item, you don't want someone to unwittingly turn the battery switch to "OFF" & render you susceptible to sinking.

Personally, I install redundant bilge pumps in my boats. In my (bigger) boats that have 2 batteries, I wire one bilge pump to each battery. That way, if one battery or pump goes bad, I still have another. If I ever see just one pumping out, I know there's a problem with the other.



Unless you have something besides the standard 1/2/ALL/OFF battery selector switch, you have been misinformed. Generally speaking, chargers are hooked up directly to the battery terminals, not through the selector switch. If you're talking about charging from the engines, then you can only charge the batter that you have selected. (Again, if you have something different than a standard switch, yours could charge differently.)

The easiest way to tell which batter goes to which selector number, just unhook one of the positive terminals. Try batter 1 & 2 to turn over the engine. If one turns it over and the other won't you'll have your answer.



I disagree. It's possible you have two batteries in a parallel wiring scheme, but that would make the battery selector unnecessary. If you set your selector switch to "BOTH" they are essentially in parallel, but that's it. As for the bilge pump, they shouldn't be wired to the selector, but instead to a/the battery itself.

One reason it's a bad idea to try to wire a bilge pump to two batteries in parallel (assuming you have a battery selector) is that the failure of one battery can bring the entire system down. That is to say, if one battery has a hard internal fault (it goes dead with 0V), your bilge wiring creates a direct path for the dead battery to drain the good battery.
Now that you've explained it, I see your point....Makes perfect sense. The new battery tender will keep both topped off although #2 is being used by the bilge pump. Regardless, I still intend to alternate positions between boat trips.

Thanks for the clarification!
Old 08-04-2016, 02:39 PM
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i'm sick of spending $$ every year on a new 3bank waterproof charger.. im pretty sure the freezing cold we get fries the electronics through the winter

anyways the point was that i now hve 3 single bank noco chargers which arent mounted in the boat just placed and always running when boat is on trailer.. this way i can remove them in the fall.

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