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Screw hole repair without a backer

Old 07-15-2016, 09:05 AM
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Default Screw hole repair without a backer

Hey all. I've got a livewell on the vessel and there was a mishap, as those things happen. The lid was damaged and in the process, one of the hinges were pulled out and the holes were damaged and stripped. See the pic below for a visual:

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I've done some fiberglass repair and worked with epoxy resin and putty before. But I've never encountered a repair where there was no backer already in place, or no way to get a backer put on. There's no way to access that portion of the fiberglass without removing the entire livewell basin. That's an incredible amount of work and I'd rather avoid it.

Looking for suggestions on how to do this repair and refasten the hinges in the same place (if possible). Cheers.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:08 AM
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This:
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:10 AM
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Looking for suggestions on how to do this repair
A picture of marine tex isn't exactly that. I have their putty on hand at all times.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:19 AM
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You could fill the holes and re-drill a pilot hole size properly for whatever size screw you are using, That would likely be best.

If you want something quick and fast stick something small in the hole, like a small sliver of plastic or wood and just re-euse the screws you have. This gives the screw something to bite into. This works if the holes have a bottom otherwise you way need to glue the piece in hole then screw it together. This is far from a permanent solution but it will work temporarily.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:24 AM
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Use a bigger screw.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:24 AM
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Is the gelcoat surface also damaged or the holes just stripped? If just stripped, mask off the area around the holes and fill them w/Marine Tex. Drill new holes once it's cured. The repair should easily support the wt. of the lid until the next "mishap." There are also toggle bolts w/a nylon strap that I've seen but never used. Might be too big for the screw size you have.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ICESA View Post
You could fill the holes and re-drill a pilot hole size properly for whatever size screw you are using, That would likely be best.

If you want something quick and fast stick something small in the hole, like a small sliver of plastic or wood and just re-euse the screws you have. This gives the screw something to bite into. This works if the holes have a bottom otherwise you way need to glue the piece in hole then screw it together. This is far from a permanent solution but it will work temporarily.
I've attempted to do that with a wooden dowel for a separate fix a while back and what I found was that epoxying the dowel in place didn't hold the dowel - it torqued out of the epoxy as I was [carefully] tightening. Have tried just sticking a bunch of putty in the hole and letting cure with the same result. Haven't had much luck without a backer, and someone always knows more than me, so that's why I posted.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:26 AM
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Default Very easy fix

Zip toggle. I used them for my HD rod holder mounts and transom holder mounts.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--stainless-steel-toggle-anchor-bolts--P018_540_003_527
Old 07-15-2016, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Cobia 217 View Post
Is the gelcoat surface also damaged or the holes just stripped? If just stripped, mask off the area around the holes and fill them w/Marine Tex. Drill new holes once it's cured. The repair should easily support the wt. of the lid until the next "mishap." There are also toggle bolts w/a nylon strap that I've seen but never used. Might be too big for the screw size you have.
The fiberglass in that spot is only 1/8" thick, so the filler never does seem to take. Tried that before, drilled new pilot holes for the screws and vibration/torque pops out the filler. Probably should have mentioned that, apologies.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:28 AM
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BTW. A temp fix is using 5200 and a plastic anchor for drywall. That will be quick and easy and allow the screw to tighten down. Will work for the light duty use you need. Later you can just drill it out and repair properly.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:29 AM
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Common plastic wall anchor
Old 07-15-2016, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ICESA View Post
You could fill the holes and re-drill a pilot hole size properly for whatever size screw you are using, That would likely be best.
Originally Posted by mitchell master View Post
Use a bigger screw.
Combination of these two plus I would allow the Marine-Tex to cure for 3 days before drilling the hole and then put 3M 4200 on the new screw.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:42 AM
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I used MarineTex epoxy and filled the hole with the epoxy (two small tubes) and then flat toothpicks (for the screw to grab on to) and put the screw back in. It has never come out.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:45 AM
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A little costlier, but a sure fix would be wider hinges.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:47 AM
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Imo . fill it , drill it, 4200 when adding new screws .

But if it broke once it Will happen again on another mishap. I wound replace with wider hinges or add more that way it give you more support and will help aid that weak spot you just had to fix.adding a support strut wouldn't hurt either to help it from opening to far.
Old 07-15-2016, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by andrew_ View Post
A picture of marine tex isn't exactly that. I have their putty on hand at all times.
So why not use it? Fill the holes and reuse.
Old 07-15-2016, 10:25 AM
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King-sert may be an option.

Drill the new hold and tap the glass for the king-sert install with epoxy and reinstall the hinge screws..

http://www.mcmaster.com/#screw-lock-inserts/=13alveq

I have used these in the past and they work great-- they make them in brass or SS
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Old 07-15-2016, 11:18 AM
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Drill The holes bigger fill with epoxy and microballs. Done and will hold the screw torque.
Old 07-15-2016, 11:34 AM
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From your pic it looks like the hinge screws end up either in or on top of your livewell tub in front of its back wall. If that's the case, you could drill through it, use bolts w/rubber washers and lock nuts and be done with it. The nuts would be on the "ceiling" of the well and not interfere with its operation. 1/8" of fiberglass doesn't give you much to work with and some of the fasteners suggested either need much bigger holes or thicker F/G. The idea of plastic drywall anchors might be a good option if you set them in 4200 or 5200 so they are more permanent.
Old 07-15-2016, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8fuldawg95 View Post
I used MarineTex epoxy and filled the hole with the epoxy (two small tubes) and then flat toothpicks (for the screw to grab on to) and put the screw back in. It has never come out.
this is where I'd start. simple, just might work. Adding more, or bigger hinges would be next.

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