Notices
The Boating Forum

Fixing up a 1993 Cape Horn 27'

Old 06-18-2016, 10:44 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes on 24 Posts
Default Fixing up a 1993 Cape Horn 27'

I've got a 1993 27' Cape Horn with twin 1993 Johnson/Evinrude Ocean Runner 200's. The boat sat for years (7+) before I got to it and there are some other things wrong but nothing I feel can't be fixed.

-- VRO fuel pumps bad - replaced with non-vro equivalent genuine j/e parts
-- Teleflex binnacle cables bad - replaced with new cables
-- Both fuel tanks bad - have stringers and bulkhead inner dimensions traced out just getting ready to chop the deck to replace them
-- Probably needs new hatches
-- Probably needs new water pumps
-- Bilge works!
-- Radar and depth finder still work amazingly!
-- Front of the keel needs to be repaired but doesn't leak - They tried to lift the boat using the aluminum side railings and as you can guess they didn't hold up and they dropped the boat on it's keel. A repair has been attempted but was obviously not done correctly as the repair crumbled and feel apart when we put the boat back on the trailer.

That's all the stuff I know of as is. I first got the motors running on muffs. Only thing wrong was the fuel pumps and that was obvious since I was able to keep the motors running by pumping the primer bulbs. I then went to check the controls. Steering needed flushing, as did the power trim units, lower end oil wasn't milky when I drained it on either motor. The props needed swapping though and there was no cotter pin in either of them . All four teleflex cables for the binnacles needed replacing. They were extremely sticky to work and all the plastic pieces molded around the brass collet had dry rotted and cracked. I had the break down the binnacle to parts and see what was wrong with it. The cam lever on the inside (cast aluminum piece) had broken it two for the port side motor so I took the starboard side one out and cut a new one on my waterjet then had a buddy with a cnc machining center mill out the slot and I made it out of stainless steel so it won't ever break again!

We got the boat out on the water today using two remote fuel tanks I got at walmart and it ran great. The starboard motor was a little weak when we were leaving the launch. We idled for a good bit and let both motors warm up then throttle up and put them under a load around 3500-4000 RPM and ran them for a bit. Then we put it WOT at around 5300-5500 RPM and the starboard motor seemed like it cleaned itself out and picked up more power. They also idled better once we brought the motors back down. The port motor was smoking a little bit (under the cowling) after the WOT run so I pulled the cowling and the plastic pack that sits on top of the engine, partially covered by the flywheel, was very hot and whatever that rubbery stuff is inside it had started melting. We left the cowling off and ran it again to monitor it and it never got hot again after that.

I have a lot of questions as I am going about this but my first one is about the plastic pack - power pack? A lot of wires go into it and it's all sealed with that rubber stuff. What is it and what would cause it to get hot?
Old 06-20-2016, 06:36 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes on 24 Posts
Default

Found a good breakdown of all the parts for my motor on boats.net. It IS the power pack that was getting hot and melting down the back of the engine that caused the smoking. I was messing around with it yesterday and noticed a few things.

1. We were having trouble with the port engine getting into neutral and that turned out to be the throttle cable being incorrectly set. Basically, the engine would start to throttle up almost before the engine went into gear.

2. This caused the engine to be at a very high idle speed when in gear and I would assume also to run at a much higher RPM than the starboard motor. I only had a working tach on the port motor at the time so I am not sure where it was running, I was trying to work by ear.

Maybe I was over revving the engine a bit and that's what caused the power pack to overheat? When we cruised back at 4500 RPM the power pack on the port motor didn't get hot. Anyone have experience trouble shooting these motors?
Old 11-07-2016, 05:11 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have been through every part of what you mentioned here! I have owned the boat for 8 years. 1996 27. I have recovered with 275 vrods which I haven't run yet. New fuel tanks from sunshine, new hatches, complete rewire, relocated batteries to console, new lighting, underwater lights, paint, spray rails, wow lots. How did it work out for you? I will try to post some pics and would love to see yours
Old 11-07-2016, 05:18 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

https://goo.gl/photos/mLsBeAgrd4jj4qZT6[IMG]
[/IMG]

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.