pumfe

So these have not worked since I bought the boat and decided I would look into getting them working. When I press on the starboard side control, up & down, I hear a click, but no motor running and no movement of the tab. When I press on the port side, there is no click or action when pressing up or down.

I've read on a few other posts where all screws must be present and also what wires to short to determine if they work, but I don't think that system was the same as the system I have.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

flbluerunner

Call Boat Levelor, great to trouble shoot with.

Tabman

That is there newer switch, but the system can still be tested as described below. Given your description I would try "hot wiring it" right at the pump first,

Here is he wiring for Boat Leveler.

green=Port Valve
white= Starboard Valve
red=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
black on HPU=Ground
red on Helm=Control Positive

Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
(+), Red, Green=Port trim tab down
(+), Red, White=Starboard trim tab down
(+), Red, Green, White=both trim tabs down
(+), Yellow, Green=Port trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White=Starboard trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White, Green=both trim tabs up

If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault.

This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.

If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.

Make sure to check both ends of the black ground wire at the pump for corrosion.

Tom
Bennett Marine

pumfe

Thank you for the info. I will have to pull out the motor and check it. Apparently they were installed in a bad place on Sea Pros and go bad much sooner than expected due to splashing water in the bilge area.

pumfe

Thanks for the idea... they were quite helpful with information and directing me to the net on where to find schematics.

pumfe

Okay, folks... I finally pulled the old pump assembly out and it was toast... looked like it had been submerged more than once, and according to Boat Leveler, that was common when installed on Sea Pros.

I bought a new pump assembly, installed it tonight, but its not working. I ran hoses all the way up into the console and installed the pump there so I wouldnt have the submerged issue again. Do I need to bleed the hoses somehow? I can hear the pump when the up/down on port/starboard buttons are pushed, but the tabs do not move. I certainly hope the hydraulic parts are okay, as the service rep at BL told me they would be fine.

Thanks in advance!!

Tabman

Are you sure you have enough volts when the pump is under load? If there is not enough power the pump can run but the valves may not open.

The system is self bleeding, running it up and down 3 or 4 times will purge any air .

Also make sure the boat side of the ground wire is clean and tight.

Remember the boat's volt meter may read good, but there may not be the same volts at the pump under load.

Tom
Bennett Marine

pumfe

Thanks, Tabman!! I tightened up the ground wire and they are working.... they go up and down pretty damn slow when pushing moving both sides at the same time, but they work!

Fishtales2

I am also having problams with my Insta trim system. I recently had a new engine installed and when I did a sea trial I found that the system is not working at all. There is oil in the reservoir and the hose connections are good. I used a multimeter to test the voltage at the wire harness after I unplugged it from the pump. All the wires had 12.6 volts when the rocker switches were tested. I hot wired directly from the battery with butt connectors inserted into the female part of the pump for hot and ground. The pump then works. I then tested the voltage at the rocker switches and there is 12.6 volts there also. I am thinking at this point that there may be corrosion somewhere in the wire harness. Can anyone please describe how I would test for OHM resistance in the circuits? Thanks in advance.

Ed Dergosits
Fishtales2

Tabman

I would simply do the hot wire test up at the switch. That way you will be testing the old harness and can see if it still works.

Tom
Bennett Marine

Fishtales2

Thanks Tom. I assume you mean I should bring a hotwire from the battery to the positive lead on the rocker switch. Is that correct?

Tabman

There should be a hot wire at the switch already. It's one of the reds, you can use that to jump to the wires as posted above.

Tom
Bennett Marine