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2003 Yamaha HPDI auto-fill Oil Issue

Old 04-15-2016, 06:22 AM
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Default 2003 Yamaha HPDI auto-fill Oil Issue

My 2003 Yamaha 225 HPDI runs great except the oil tank on the engine will not automatically fill up. The engine runs until the low oil horn starts screaming and bogs down. I then have to take the engine cover off and manually fill the oil tank using the switch on the engine. The oil tank pump works and the oil tank harness (from the tank to the engine) is brand new. So I swapped the oil level gage, which works fine, from my other Yamaha 250 HPDI and the engine oil tank will still not auto-fill. The oil level gage from the 225 works perfectly on the 250. So now I'm sort of lost on what do to next? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:28 AM
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will the pump run if you use the manual toggle switch? if not you may have a bad ground or power,
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:38 AM
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Yes, that's how I have to fill the oil tank on the engine.
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:09 AM
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Here is a procedure from one of the best and most experienced Yamaha Master Techs in the country.

Oil Transfer Troubleshooting - if Emergency Transfer swtich is working

that system will mostly test/troubleshoot itself.
ya just have to pay attention.

by the fact that it works manually, tells you the 12V feed(brown wire) and the ground path back to within inches of the ECU(blue wire) is good.
also tells us the pump is ok.

if the engine oil level is between the marks and you turn the key on and get 3 bars,tells me the remote tank switch OR harness is open and no automatic transfer can occur.

now we are down to SW2,SW3 or a restrited line or filter.

a restriction will allow the engine to consume oil faster than it can be transfered.

so how I would start, knowing the transfer pump works manually.
1 fill the engine tank with the manual switch so the level is between the marks.
visually inspect the remote tank for at least 1/2 full.
turn the key on and look at the tach
should see three solid,green lamp or far right bar.
if center bar is lit or yellow lamp then chase the remote switch(SWB) and wiring for opens.
then with the key still on, drain the engine tank until the alarm sounds and recap the drain.
transfer pump should turn on and run for 180 seconds and all bars flash.

to test power and ground to the engine tank switch you ask?
dont even need a meter.
start the engine,unplug the switch, should get an alarm.
if not you have a switch or harness issue,possibly an ECU but its very very very,did I mention VERY rare that an ecu fails.

now if you get an alarm while the engine is running and you unplugged it power and ground to the switch most likly works.
shut the engine off.
restart the engine after about 15 seconds.
now with the engine running on the engine harness side of the oil tank connector.
jump black to blue/green transfer pump should run.
now the only way to shut it off is jump black to blue/white or turn the key off.

see I just spent 15 min testing 90% of the precision blend transfer system and havent broken out a meter yet, no need to yet.

if you start the engine with the engine tank unplugged you get no alarm.
if the connector becomes unplugged while running you get an alarm.
ALWAYS make sure that connector is PLUGGED together before using the system after testing.

green lamp means the switch in the remote tank and circuits are ok.
key on engine off.
unplug the engine tank switch.
jump,with a bent paper clip,from black to brown.
pump should run.
this test will only work for oil control modules made prior to about 2004.
later modules will have a green/white wire going to the CDI unit.
if the pump runs then jump from black to white,pump should shut off.
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:43 AM
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:51 AM
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Thanks for the Info, I'll have to try that this afternoon. I have swapped everything with the 250 HPDI and it all works on that engine
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:09 AM
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Sounds like the cap/float assembly on the engine mounted tank is wonky. I'd focus my attention there.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:57 AM
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I swapped that one with the working one on my 250 and it still does not work. Its the weirdest thing
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:11 PM
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Yea - the small tank is just not calling for oil from the big tank if the manual switch is working. Your issue is w/ the float or whatever sensor is in the small tank. (i forget what it looks like)
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:43 PM
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Replace the filter on the remote tank.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:27 PM
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I'll clean the filter, didn't look at that closely.
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Old 04-15-2016, 01:29 PM
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Check the ground wire from the block to the sensor switch for continuity.

Check the ground wire from the sensor switch to the ECU.

Pay careful attention to the connectors along the way. Should be OK if new, except for the engine side connector which is not.

If the ECU does not sense a ground from the remote tank then the auto transfer mode is inhibited.

If you have a Yam multi-function gauge what is it telling you?
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Old 04-15-2016, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by alloyboy View Post
Check the ground wire from the block to the sensor switch for continuity.

Check the ground wire from the sensor switch to the ECU.

Pay careful attention to the connectors along the way. Should be OK if new, except for the engine side connector which is not.

If the ECU does not sense a ground from the remote tank then the auto transfer mode is inhibited.

If you have a Yam multi-function gauge what is it telling you?
The gage is always blinking saying its low
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Old 04-15-2016, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by HeadHunt View Post
Replace the filter on the remote tank.
I would replace it , don't try to clean it.
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:23 PM
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Checked the continuity to the ECU and it's good. Also the remote tank filter is very clean. I think it has to be an electrical issue. I don't know how the manual switch works but it will not fill automatically
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:28 PM
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It was explained in minute detail in the post by seahorse, just to be clear, there is no sensors, there is switches, either on or off, very simple to check, you don't suppose if it fills manually, then the filter is OK?
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:46 PM
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When the harness from the tank to engine is unplugged, then engine still runs completely fine. No horns or anything
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bud Light Bandits View Post
The gage is always blinking saying its low
Is it the middle light/icon that is flashing? Has the right light/icon gone out/away? That is indicating the remote tank is low. Or the ECU thinks it is low.

Tell me which light please.
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by noelm View Post
It was explained in minute detail in the post by seahorse, just to be clear, there is no sensors, there is switches, either on or off, very simple to check, you don't suppose if it fills manually, then the filter is OK?
Yamaha calls the components in the main oil tank and in the remote oil tank sensors. Yes, they have switches to sense the state of things. They sense the level of oil in each tank (by a switch being open or closed) and report that to the computer/tachometer. The computer then does what it needs to do. If it can. If the wiring and the connectors are in good condition.

If a light goes out in my house the wife may change the bulb several times. She does not understand that there are circuit breakers/fuses, wiring and switches involved, any of which could be causing a perfectly good bulb to be out. So too is it with the Yamaha PBS.
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by alloyboy View Post
Is it the middle light/icon that is flashing? Has the right light/icon gone out/away? That is indicating the remote tank is low. Or the ECU thinks it is low.

Tell me which light please.
The first light is solid and the second one is blinking
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