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2003 Yamaha HPDI auto-fill Oil Issue

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2003 Yamaha HPDI auto-fill Oil Issue

Old 04-16-2016, 06:11 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Bud Light Bandits View Post
The first light is solid and the second one is blinking
That indicates low oil in remote tank or it thinks there is. The tank is deceptive and can be too low when it doesn't appear to be.
Old 04-16-2016, 06:32 AM
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The remote tank is full. It seems like the motor thinks it's low according to the gage. I'm guessing it may be an ECU issue. The motor will run great until the oil level in the remote tank goes below the 'low oil' mark. At this point, the low oil horn will start screaming and the motor goes into safe mode where it will not go over a certain rpm. I turn the engine off and use the remote switch on the tank to fill the remote tank. The engine wil then run great until the remote tank gets too low again. So the engine knows the oil level is low but will not tell itself to fill it back up.

Like I said in previous messages, the motor will still run when the oil harness from the oil tank to the motor is unplugged. But if I unplug the harness that goes from the remote tank to the ECU, the horn will sound and the engine will not start.

I'm not a mechanic but I don't know what else to check
Old 04-16-2016, 07:18 AM
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You will not get any oil transfer - except by the toggle switch - if the oil level switch in the boat's tank is faulty. Remove the level switch and acuate it up and down with the key ON and see if you can get the gauge to read full again. If not, disconnect it and short the wires together with a jumper.
Old 04-16-2016, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by seahorse View Post
You will not get any oil transfer - except by the toggle switch - if the oil level switch in the boat's tank is faulty. Remove the level switch and acuate it up and down with the key ON and see if you can get the gauge to read full again. If not, disconnect it and short the wires together with a jumper.
You're referring to the level switch in the remote tank correct? That part came directly off my 250 hpdi and it works perfectly on the 250. So why wouldn't it work on the 225?
Old 04-16-2016, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Bud Light Bandits View Post
You're referring to the level switch in the remote tank correct? That part came directly off my 250 hpdi and it works perfectly on the 250. So why wouldn't it work on the 225?
It might not be the sensor. It might be the wiring to or from the sensor and/or a connector along the way. Or the ground connection at the block.

The gauge is telling you what the problem is if the remote tank is full. Pay attention to the gauge.

You have a perfectly good wall switch in your house. The bulb in the light fixture and the fixture itself are in perfectly good condition. There is power to the switch. The switch won't turn on the bulb.

What do you think it might be?
Old 04-16-2016, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Bud Light Bandits View Post
The remote tank is full. It seems like the motor thinks it's low according to the gage. I'm guessing it may be an ECU issue. The motor will run great until the oil level in the remote tank goes below the 'low oil' mark. At this point, the low oil horn will start screaming and the motor goes into safe mode where it will not go over a certain rpm. I turn the engine off and use the remote switch on the tank to fill the remote tank. The engine wil then run great until the remote tank gets too low again. So the engine knows the oil level is low but will not tell itself to fill it back up.

Like I said in previous messages, the motor will still run when the oil harness from the oil tank to the motor is unplugged. But if I unplug the harness that goes from the remote tank to the ECU, the horn will sound and the engine will not start.

I'm not a mechanic but I don't know what else to check
It is almost never the ECU. The ECU is the most reliable part of the PBS.
Old 04-16-2016, 09:03 AM
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I would agree. It doesn't make sense how only the oil fill function on the ECU goes bad.
Old 04-16-2016, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by alloyboy View Post
It might not be the sensor. It might be the wiring to or from the sensor and/or a connector along the way. Or the ground connection at the block.

The gauge is telling you what the problem is if the remote tank is full. Pay attention to the gauge.

You have a perfectly good wall switch in your house. The bulb in the light fixture and the fixture itself are in perfectly good condition. There is power to the switch. The switch won't turn on the bulb.

What do you think it might be?
I think it's an electrical issue. But I checked the continuity of the system, from remote tank to the oil tank
Old 04-16-2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by seahorse View Post
I don't see a Black/Red wire hooked to the tach?
Old 04-16-2016, 12:53 PM
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Who said the tachometer has a black wire with a red tracer?
Old 04-16-2016, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Bud Light Bandits View Post
I think it's an electrical issue. But I checked the continuity of the system, from remote tank to the oil tank
It is not the connectivity of the wire from the remote tank to the main tank that is the concern.

A black wire carries a ground from the block to the switch in the sensor. The switch closes when the tank has sufficient oil in it. The ground then gets carried up the black wire with the red tracer to (1) the tachometer and (2) the ECU. That ground crosses several connectors.

If the tachometer does not sense the ground then the right bar disappears and the middle bar flashes. If the ECU does not sense the ground then it will stop the auto transfer of oil.
Old 04-16-2016, 01:17 PM
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You are scatter gun fixing, the post by seahorse explains it very well, but you keep jumping here and there and finding reasons why it can't be certain things.
Old 04-16-2016, 01:54 PM
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Black: Is supplied a constant ground.
Black/Red: A ground is supplied to this wire from the remote oil tank sensor SW B being in the “ON” or “CLOSED” position.

NOTE:.

If ground is not present on the black or the black/red wire, the tachometer will have a warning
and oil transfer will not occur

Last edited by seahorse; 04-16-2016 at 02:05 PM.
Old 04-16-2016, 02:25 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by alloyboy View Post
It is not the connectivity of the wire from the remote tank to the main tank that is the concern.

A black wire carries a ground from the block to the switch in the sensor. The switch closes when the tank has sufficient oil in it. The ground then gets carried up the black wire with the red tracer to (1) the tachometer and (2) the ECU. That ground crosses several connectors.

If the tachometer does not sense the ground then the right bar disappears and the middle bar flashes. If the ECU does not sense the ground then it will stop the auto transfer of oil.
The tach must not sense the ground then because the right bar is not present and the middle one is flashing. So do I check every connection from the tach to the ECU?

On another point, I found out the trim and oil harness from the tach to the engine was not even run on the boat. I found a trim and oil harness and hooked it to the tach and the engine, still nothing.
Old 04-16-2016, 04:35 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by seahorse View Post
Here is a procedure from one of the best and most experienced Yamaha Master Techs in the country.

Oil Transfer Troubleshooting - if Emergency Transfer swtich is working

that system will mostly test/troubleshoot itself.
ya just have to pay attention.

by the fact that it works manually, tells you the 12V feed(brown wire) and the ground path back to within inches of the ECU(blue wire) is good.
also tells us the pump is ok.

if the engine oil level is between the marks and you turn the key on and get 3 bars,tells me the remote tank switch OR harness is open and no automatic transfer can occur.

now we are down to SW2,SW3 or a restrited line or filter.

a restriction will allow the engine to consume oil faster than it can be transfered.

so how I would start, knowing the transfer pump works manually.
1 fill the engine tank with the manual switch so the level is between the marks.
visually inspect the remote tank for at least 1/2 full.
turn the key on and look at the tach
should see three solid,green lamp or far right bar.
if center bar is lit or yellow lamp then chase the remote switch(SWB) and wiring for opens.
then with the key still on, drain the engine tank until the alarm sounds and recap the drain.
transfer pump should turn on and run for 180 seconds and all bars flash.

to test power and ground to the engine tank switch you ask?
dont even need a meter.
start the engine,unplug the switch, should get an alarm.
if not you have a switch or harness issue,possibly an ECU but its very very very,did I mention VERY rare that an ecu fails.

now if you get an alarm while the engine is running and you unplugged it power and ground to the switch most likly works.
shut the engine off.
restart the engine after about 15 seconds.
now with the engine running on the engine harness side of the oil tank connector.
jump black to blue/green transfer pump should run.
now the only way to shut it off is jump black to blue/white or turn the key off.

see I just spent 15 min testing 90% of the precision blend transfer system and havent broken out a meter yet, no need to yet.

if you start the engine with the engine tank unplugged you get no alarm.
if the connector becomes unplugged while running you get an alarm.
ALWAYS make sure that connector is PLUGGED together before using the system after testing.

green lamp means the switch in the remote tank and circuits are ok.
key on engine off.
unplug the engine tank switch.
jump,with a bent paper clip,from black to brown.
pump should run.
this test will only work for oil control modules made prior to about 2004.
later modules will have a green/white wire going to the CDI unit.
if the pump runs then jump from black to white,pump should shut off.
Here is what I've done regarding the instructions from seahorse:

Oil Transfer Troubleshooting - if Emergency Transfer swtich is working - Yes it is

that system will mostly test/troubleshoot itself.
ya just have to pay attention.

by the fact that it works manually, tells you the 12V feed(brown wire) and the ground path back to within inches of the ECU(blue wire) is good.
also tells us the pump is ok. - Yes, the pump is good

if the engine oil level is between the marks and you turn the key on and get 3 bars,tells me the remote tank switch OR harness is open and no automatic transfer can occur. - I never see 3 bars on the tach, whether the remote tank is full or low. its always the first bar is solid and the second one blinks

now we are down to SW2,SW3 or a restrited line or filter.

a restriction will allow the engine to consume oil faster than it can be transfered.

so how I would start, knowing the transfer pump works manually.
1 fill the engine tank with the manual switch so the level is between the marks.
visually inspect the remote tank for at least 1/2 full.
turn the key on and look at the tach
should see three solid,green lamp or far right bar. - The third bar never goes solid
if center bar is lit or yellow lamp then chase the remote switch(SWB) and wiring for opens. - The center bar only blinks, never solid
then with the key still on, drain the engine tank until the alarm sounds and recap the drain.
transfer pump should turn on and run for 180 seconds and all bars flash. - Still need to try this step

to test power and ground to the engine tank switch you ask?
dont even need a meter.
start the engine,unplug the switch, should get an alarm. - Yes, I get an alarm when unplugging the switch
if not you have a switch or harness issue,possibly an ECU but its very very very,did I mention VERY rare that an ecu fails.

now if you get an alarm while the engine is running and you unplugged it power and ground to the switch most likly works.
shut the engine off.
restart the engine after about 15 seconds.
now with the engine running on the engine harness side of the oil tank connector.
jump black to blue/green transfer pump should run. - I need to try this still
now the only way to shut it off is jump black to blue/white or turn the key off. - I need to try this still

see I just spent 15 min testing 90% of the precision blend transfer system and havent broken out a meter yet, no need to yet.

if you start the engine with the engine tank unplugged you get no alarm. - Yes, this is true
if the connector becomes unplugged while running you get an alarm. - Yes, this is true
ALWAYS make sure that connector is PLUGGED together before using the system after testing. - I agree

green lamp means the switch in the remote tank and circuits are ok. - I never see a green light or third solid bar
key on engine off.
unplug the engine tank switch.
jump,with a bent paper clip,from black to brown.
pump should run. - I need to try this still
this test will only work for oil control modules made prior to about 2004.
later modules will have a green/white wire going to the CDI unit.
if the pump runs then jump from black to white,pump should shut off. - I need to try this still

I really do appreciate everyone's help. I am not a mechanic so deciphering the information takes a little time.
Old 06-11-2017, 01:27 PM
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Hello there, sorry for resurrecting an old discussion.

I'm having this same problem in a 1999 SX200TXRX Yamaha Outboard... I have tested almost everything posted here, but still nothing

Have your problem been solved???

Could this be related to the TRIM SENDER or something else???

Thanks
Old 06-12-2017, 10:06 AM
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Problem solved!! it was a disconnected (jammed in the up position) TRIM SENDER/sensor... we connected and aim it at "down" position, then it begin to pump as it should be. Remember to start the engine so the ECU operates every sensor (MAP, TPS, O2, etc. sensors) including the neg (-) signal to the remote oil pump.
Old 06-06-2019, 08:20 PM
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What if the emergency transfer switch doesn' work! This is where i am......
Old 06-07-2019, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by P@thfinder View Post
What if the emergency transfer switch doesn' work! This is where i am......
The first thing to do is replace the oil filter that is under the oil tank. Very common for them to clog if not changed every couple years. Then I'd check the power to the pump if it's still not working.
Old 06-07-2019, 04:15 AM
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I had the Same problem , ended up being the float / switch in the remote tank on the boat.

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