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epoxy product?

Old 01-30-2016, 02:53 PM
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Looking for an epoxy adhesive in a paste/putty form.It must have a working time of at least 45 minutes.
All the products that I have found have a cure time that will be to way to fast for my project.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Old 01-30-2016, 02:59 PM
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May want to look at PC-7 which claims to have a work time of 1 hour.
Old 01-30-2016, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by billfishr View Post
Looking for an epoxy adhesive in a paste/putty form.It must have a working time of at least 45 minutes.
All the products that I have found have a cure time that will be to way to fast for my project.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
how large is your project and how much epoxy do you think you might need?

Marine tex might fit the bill but it's very expensive when you consider the size sold in stores.
Old 01-30-2016, 03:29 PM
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JB Weld Marine

Amazon Amazon


or Marine-tex

Amazon Amazon
Old 01-30-2016, 03:30 PM
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Marine Tex

or

Hawk System thickened
Old 01-30-2016, 04:32 PM
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JB Weld link says full cure in 20-30 min.
Marine-Tex says pot life 30 min at 72*, but I don't recall it being fully apply-able that long in normal use.
. But I believe the pot can be immersed in ice water to substantially delay the epoxy kick, so you might time a small test batch of whatever epoxy you hope to use.
Old 01-30-2016, 04:56 PM
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Default Adhesive

Arjay 7121 epoxy based adhesive, used by many manufactures to bond liners and decks to hulls and stringers. Just laid the deck in my panga project today in 68 deg. Dropped the catalyst ratio and didn't start to kick for 60min. Hard as hell now.
Old 01-30-2016, 05:08 PM
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Ok what is the project? Are looking to mix yourself?
West syetems six10 epoxy adhesive may work for what you want but we need more info of what you are doinf.
Old 01-30-2016, 05:24 PM
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I'm almost sure u can mix any epoxy cold enough to kick really slow but it's sort of trial and error
Old 01-30-2016, 05:47 PM
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Plexus
Old 01-30-2016, 08:00 PM
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Buy a slow cure epoxy resin / hardener and add a thixotropic to suit.
Old 01-30-2016, 08:36 PM
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Call Joel Shine @ Gulfstream Composites; he sells RAKA epoxy with Tropical hardener - that's about the slowest cure time you can get. He'll tell you what to mix it with to make your glue.
Your work time is around half of the listed cure time. If you need time to assemble and wet out your work - slower is better.
http://www.gulfstreamcomposites.com/epoxy-s/111.htm
Old 01-30-2016, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Tino160 View Post
Arjay 7121 epoxy based adhesive, used by many manufactures to bond liners and decks to hulls and stringers. Just laid the deck in my panga project today in 68 deg. Dropped the catalyst ratio and didn't start to kick for 60min. Hard as hell now.
7121 is vinylester based rather than epoxy. It is a very good product, for the right project.

Speaking of projects, billfishr, what are you working on? You may need to mix your own which is not as hard to do as you may think.
Old 01-31-2016, 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tino160 View Post
Arjay 7121 epoxy based adhesive, used by many manufactures to bond liners and decks to hulls and stringers. Just laid the deck in my panga project today in 68 deg. Dropped the catalyst ratio and didn't start to kick for 60min. Hard as hell now.
You are plying with fire. Epoxy should never be under catalyzed.
Old 01-31-2016, 05:47 AM
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My apologies,
Putting in a new transom from the outside.The skin has all ready been removed,and the old wet and rotten wood removed.
In side skin is still intact.What I want to do is glue in the first sheet of plywood to the inner skin.Glue the second sheet to that.And glue the outside skin all in one step.
The last transom that I did with this method I used cabasil and west system.And I was having problems with that kicking way to fast.
Thanks again for the impute.
Jeff
Old 01-31-2016, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by scooperfl View Post
You are plying with fire. Epoxy should never be under catalyzed.
7121 is not epoxy. It is VE based and uses MEKP as a hardener. MEKP levels can be adjusted from .75 to 2.5% without issue. Link to Catalyzation guide:http://www.arjaytech.com/images/Arja...-%20VE7121.pdf
Old 01-31-2016, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by billfishr View Post
My apologies,
Putting in a new transom from the outside.The skin has all ready been removed,and the old wet and rotten wood removed.
In side skin is still intact.What I want to do is glue in the first sheet of plywood to the inner skin.Glue the second sheet to that.And glue the outside skin all in one step.
The last transom that I did with this method I used cabasil and west system.And I was having problems with that kicking way to fast.
Thanks again for the impute.
Jeff
What hardener where you using? What was the temperature? Maybe you need some extra hands to get it all done in one shot.
Old 01-31-2016, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jayyy View Post
Buy a slow cure epoxy resin / hardener and add a thixotropic to suit.
Exactly. When you mix in fillers, it shortens the pot life of any resin ( fillers act like an insulator trapping some exothermic) Use the tropical speed hardener as John suggested and you will have plenty of time

As a bonus, the epoxy we sell is about half the cost of West
Old 01-31-2016, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by billfishr View Post
My apologies,
Putting in a new transom from the outside.The skin has all ready been removed,and the old wet and rotten wood removed.
In side skin is still intact.What I want to do is glue in the first sheet of plywood to the inner skin.Glue the second sheet to that.And glue the outside skin all in one step.
The last transom that I did with this method I used cabasil and west system.And I was having problems with that kicking way to fast.
Thanks again for the impute.
Jeff

Having built a Tolman Skiff and used 14 gallons of epoxy, I want to add a couple of thoughts.

First, you want slowest cure possible given your situation. I used Aeromarine epoxy with wood flour/cabosil/micro balloons as needed for the application. It will give you a long working time IF you do not mix too large a batch at once and IF you do not let a large batch sit in the cup. The key is to get that mixed epoxy spread out fairly quickly so that it does not have its temperature go up. Once the temp goes up it is going to cure rapidly from there on, but in my experience if you get the epoxy out of the mixing cup and into a roller tray or onto the project within 3 minutes or so then you are fine. even 200 grams will stay good in the cup for the time it takes to apply it with a brush.

If I were doing what you describe here is what I would do:

Buy some one quart paint mixing cups at the hardware and mix in patches of 300-500 grams. I mixed my epoxy by weight using a digital kitchen scale.

Make a mixer to go on your electric drill, I used a coat hanger and a pair of pliers to make a spiral of wire and then bent a 90+ and another small bend to get the wire back in line with the drill chuck. You could buy a paint mixer, I would look for the ones that look like a fan rather than a paddle.

precoat your transom board with epoxy, mix 300 grams at a time and pour it onto the board, or into a roller tray if working with the board verticle, and use a foam roller to spread the epoxy. mix additional batches as needed. This will soak into the wood and you want that as it primes the board.

Mix a batch of epoxy (500 grams or so) and add wood flour to make it thick. This takes more wood flour than you think. Use a paint mixer to scrape it out of the cup and onto a large putty knife or small drywall tool and apply a thin coat to your transom skin. Use multiple batches as needed.

once it is coated you can add some thickened epoxy to the transom board and assemble. figure out some kind of clamping arrangement in advance, you do not need high clamp pressure you just need it all held in place the way you want it.

Now you have to option of adding the next layer right away or waiting a few hours, the epoxy will adhere to partly cured epoxy just as well as fresh epoxy so no loss to take a break. I found 8 hours to be the sweet spot between layers when I was building, cured enough that I would not disturb previous work but still a bit gummy so clearly not beyond the re-coat window.

When laying up layers of plywood you can pre-drill holes and use drywall screws and fender washers to add "clamping" where needed. they will back right out when cured. sometime the washer will get glued on but they pop off with a sharp whack on a flat blade screwdriver applied to the edge. with 3/8 or 1/4 plywood no need to pre-drill just screw right through.

it's not that hard to do just what you want to do. just work quickly, mix in small batches and get it spread promptly and all will be good. If I were near by I would come work with you as long as the cooler was full for the end of the day.

Good luck,
Jerry

PS: buy some nitrile gloves and do not wear any clothes that you would not be willing to trow away. it's not a messy job per se but if you get epoxy on your clothes or shoes it is not coming out.

EDIT to add: The pre-coating of the plywood is IMO the critical step don't skimp here.
Old 01-31-2016, 07:55 AM
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The site says its a "Bisphenol-A based epoxy vinyl ester resin" It does use MEKP as a catalyst. I guess it must have some epoxy components to it if epoxy is part of the description? And good advice to NEVER deviate from catalyst ratios outside of listed ranges without consulting the manufacture. One question though, why must the product you are looking for be epoxy?
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