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Yamaha HPDI remote oil pump and emergency switch not getting power

Old 09-20-2015, 03:19 PM
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Default Yamaha HPDI remote oil pump and emergency switch not getting power

I'm having a weird problem after pulling both remote oil tanks to clean filters and replace one bad oil pump. After reinstalling remote oil tanks back in bilge the emergency toggle doesn't fill or power the remote oil pumps. When I tested power at the tank connection I only get 1.5 volts. I trimmed motors all way down and no power at toggle or connection. Checked for fuse under dash, OK there. My trim tab sensor isn't sending info to the gauge, so could that be the issue?
Before I removed tanks, starboard pump and remote switch worked great,
Is it possible when I tested motors with the remote tanks removed, it tripped something?
Both motors are have No power at remote switch and tank connection so it's some electrical issue I cannot figure out,
Thanks for helping!
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:14 PM
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What model motor?

The emergency switch never sees 12 volts power.
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:15 PM
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Toggle is negative positive side is on with key turned on key must be on for switch to work
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:37 PM
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Hi the motors are 2001 hpdi 200. Lz200. It's really strange both are not working after just disconnecting tank connections and reinstalling with new pump and filters.
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:39 PM
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Yes. Key is in and turned on. Too. Just a mystery why not working
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:46 PM
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Unplug it again turn key to on check to see if you have 12 volts with toggle switch on if you do then plug back in try it again you should hear pump but it is very low sound
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Old 09-20-2015, 05:54 PM
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Trim sensor has no bearing on those engines and the oil system. Toggle/emergency switch supplies ground to the pump.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:47 PM
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Default remote oil tank auto fill and toggle not working

Is it possible that I need to prime the new and reinstalled oil pumps before it flows into main tank? It seems like something simple since both remote pumps are not working after reinstalling them. I cannot hear the pumps when the toggle is used. I removed one tank and jumped the pump on a battery. It worked great.
Anyone reinstall the remote oil tanks and get the same problem?
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:03 PM
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You need to do some simple trouble shooting, do you have a genuine manual? You are asking for help but keep coming back with your own theories.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by teamsketch View Post
Is it possible that I need to prime the new and reinstalled oil pumps before it flows into main tank? It seems like something simple since both remote pumps are not working after reinstalling them. I cannot hear the pumps when the toggle is used. I removed one tank and jumped the pump on a battery. It worked great.
Anyone reinstall the remote oil tanks and get the same problem?
It seems to me that the tank on motor should have oil up to or a little higher then the lower line to start pump but I am not sure of this. Let us no
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:20 AM
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Reach out to SIM. Yamaha has a trouble shooting document just for these tank pump issues.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:22 AM
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the V6 and V4 oil control systems have evolved since 1984,first year we got Yamaha outboards from japan dedicated to the US market.
the international market stuff is sometimes very different and the US technician doesnt get information on them.

the V4 always used a seperate oil control module.
the 2004 and up and replacement modules since 04 for the V4 used a pulser coil signal.

early V4 and 2.6L V6,once the alarm was triggered the key had to be cycled to release the alarm hold circuits.
later versions that used the pulser coil signal had to be throttled below 1300 RPM for alarm release.

Build a better mousetrap, mother nature builds a better mouse.
build a more fool proff product, mother nature develops a more determined fool.

however all the systems worked basically the same, other than some minor control differences they all used a 3 position reed switch in the engine tank.

they all used an on/off switch(SWB) in the remote tank.

they all applied 12V at key on power to the transfer pump.

they all used a ground path control at the oil control module regaurdless of where the module was located.( transfer pump blue wire)

they all used some form of transfer inhibit when tilted or not running.

they all used some form of alarm hold circuitry.

its an incredibly simple system that typically can be trouble shot with a standard digital multi meter in under 30 min.
but you must understand the relatio ship of voltage while the device is working and what a voltage drop test is and when to use it

and that is where the initial fill function and the correct tachometer and visual indicators come in so well.
gives me a known 180 seconds to look for a loss of voltage and a voltage drop test to find which path I lost.

------------------------------------------------------

1984-1989 V6 2.6L.
oil system used 3 switchs mounted on a single stem in the engine tank to control pump off,on and alarm.
this switch fed into an oil control module with a mecury switch mounted below the engine tank.
mercury switch would prevent transfer when tilted.
(modules,V4 and V6, replaced after about 2002 will not have a mercury switch but will wire into the pulser coil at the CDI and use black resistor plug caps.)

1990-1995 V62.6L
oil module was incorperated into the CDI assy.
mercury switch was eliminated and the trim sensor signal used.
all other functions were the same as prior years.

1996 and up 2.6L V6, all HPDI and all 3.1L V6.
trim sensor was eliminated from the oil circuits entirely and a pulser coil signal(engine running) is needed for all automatic oil transfers.


switch SWB,remote tank all V6.
SWB closed you get a green lamp or a far right bar.
SWB open indicates low remote tank level,enough for two manual transfers,you get a yellow lamp indicate or center bar flashing and automatic transfer is INHIBITED.


initial engine tank fill.
SWB closed indicating enough oil for transfer.
SW3,lowest switch in the engine oil tank,closed.
this will set the audible,RPM reduction if running,red lamp AND commands pump on for 180 seconds.
this will work with all V6 at key on engine off.
the blue pump wire is taken to ground for 180 seconds at key on if the above conditions are met.
makes 3 minutes worth of voltage and voltage drop testing avalible.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:39 PM
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Thank you Seahorse for info. I'm going to try to find the problem with a multi tester this week. I'm not good at it, but now is a good time to learn before I take it to a shop, It's odd that both motors are now not working after pulling tanks, but that's how it goes.
I'll update the results.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:47 PM
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:49 PM
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OR this is for the oil motors but the function and testing I think is the same as yours
Troubleshooting Yamaha's Precision Blend oil
system is easy. We show you how

More than a mere convenience for boaters, automatic oil injection helps two-stroke outboards run at peak performance. When the system is functioning properly, the engine will produce less smoke, while resisting carbon buildup and spark-plug fouling. Because of its complexity, however, glitches sometimes cause rough-running engines, excessive smoking, oil leaks or even alarms to sound and lights to flash. While we cant address every possible situation for every outboard, well take this opportunity to examine Yamahas Precision Blend oil system. With proper troubleshooting techniques and a thorough understanding of how the system works, most problems are easily corrected.

Over the years, Yamaha has refined the electrical operation of the oil-transfer system to increase its reliability. Before you tear into any job, have the appropriate service manual, test equipment and tools needed. Naturally, you'll want to use common sense when working around gasoline, oil and electrical parts and be sure to observe all safety procedures outlined in the manual. A word to the wise: A few moments spent reading the instructions beforehand will save grief and time in the end.

Yamaha's system consists of two lubricant reservoirs, an electric pump, a crankshaft-driven metering pump, float-activated switches, filter screens, hoses and an electronic oil-control system. A 2.7-gallon reservoir (actually, a remote tank) mounted inside the boat contains the electric pump, filter and a fluid-level sensor switch. An oil hose from the remote tank attaches to the engine-mounted main tank, and a wiring harness connects it to the outboard's electronic circuitry. The main tank also contains a filter screen, float and three switches that send information to the oil-control unit. Two-stroke oil is fed via gravity through a hose on the bottom of the main tank to the crankshaft-driven oil pump, where it is metered to the engine.

LUBRICANT TRANSFER

All decisions about transferring oil (as well as sounding any alarms) are made by the electronic oil-control unit. On V-4 and older V-6 outboards, it consists of an external black box with a momentary toggle switch. In later V-6 models, Yamaha incorporated the switch and electronics into the CDI unit.

Located in the boat, the remote tank holds oil that is pumped to the powerhead as the engine demands. Mounted in a recess on the side of the tank, the electric oil pump receives the lubricant through a filter element and transfers it to the main tank, which is located on the powerhead. A float activates a switch (SW B) inside the reservoir when approximately 1-1/2 quarts remain. The switch signals the oil-controller to turn on the yellow warning LCD on the tachometer, and to stop the transfer of oil to the outboards main tank.
Inside the main tank, three float-activated switches inform the control unit when the tank is full, when to transfer more oil, and when to sound the alarm if the level drops too low.

As long as the remote tank contains enough oil, a green LCD lights up on the tachometer and the electric pump will transfer oil to the engine as needed. In the main tank, as oil is consumed and the level drops, a float triggers the middle switch (SW 2), which informs the control unit to turn on the electric transfer pump. The additional oil allows the float to rise up and initiate the upper switch (SW 1) to shut off the pump. In the event no lubricant is transferred and the oil level decreases enough for the float to pass the bottom switch (SW 3), the oil-control unit sounds a warning alarm, the red \"no oil\" LCD lights up, and the outboard slows to around 2000 rpm for its protection. This warning alerts the skipper that only one-third of a quart remains in the main tank.

MANUAL OVERRIDE

As long as theres sufficient oil in the remote tank, it can be manually transferred to the main reservoir by pressing the momentary switch to bypass the oil-control unit. The toggle switch turns the pump on for as long as it is held in position; the upper float switch (SW 1) will not turn it off. This allows you to refill the main tank and continue with normal engine operation as long as the float remains above the lower switch (SW 3).

When additional oil is added to the boats remote tank, the float rises above SW B, which allows the controller to turn off the yellow warning LCD. If the outboard is running, the electric pump begins to transfer oil to the engine until the main tanks full switch (SW 1) shuts it off.
Depending on your outboards model year, various methods are used to prevent oil from transferring when the outboard is tilted up. On models with a separate oil-control module, an internal mercury switch will not allow the electric pump to energize if the outboard is tilted above 30 degrees. The trim sender senses the tilt angle to prevent the oil transfer on V-6s from 1990 through 1995. Starting in 1996, new electronics in the controller unit keep the pump from operating if the engine is not running. Do not forget to check these items when troubleshooting a \"no oil transfer\" situation.

SYMPTOMS TO WATCH FOR

Common symptoms of trouble include a lack of oil transfer, overfilling of the main tank, and oil leaks while the outboard is tilted. Most of the time, these problems are due to operator error and are not the components fault.

Non-transfer of oil to the engine-mounted main tank can be as simple a problem as a neglected filter. Moisture gets into the remote tank from spray, rain, condensation, or from being located in the bilge where it can be splashed or submerged. The water forms a sticky emulsion in the bottom of the tank and plugs up the fine screen in the filter element.

An overflowing main tank sometimes results from someone twisting or incorrectly installing the rubber cap on the float assembly and screen element. The tubular screen has an offset nipple that fits into the bottom oil-outlet going to the metering pump, and can bind the float if moved out of place. The arrow marks on the cap and tank should be aligned.

Leaving the key on by mistake can also cause overflow problems. As the battery run drops below 9.5 volts, the oil-controller electronics go off line, and a ground path is formed which starts the electric pump turning very slowly. Eventually, the main oil tank overfills and spews excess oil out a vent tube into the air silencer box.

While the outboard is tilted, a leaking rubber cap on the main tank can result from improper assembly or from twisting out of place. A plastic tie-wrap snugged around the rubber lip usually cures the leak. The clear sight tube on the bottom of the tank can become brittle with age, and oil may seep between it and the nipple. Replace the tube if it feels stiff, and secure it with a tie-wrap.

TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS

Since the electric oil pump and each switch have voltage going to them at all times, troubleshooting is fairly simple. The electric pump turns on when the ground circuit is complete, and each switch (when activated) completes a circuit. The oil-controller cannot be tested, though and can be considered faulty only through a process of elimination.

When no oil transfer occurs, lift the toggle bypass switch to see if the pump runs and starts to fill the main tank. If it does, either the tank's float assembly is inoperative or the oil-controller is faulty. To check the float assembly, disconnect its wiring plug and ground out the brown (on early engines) or the blue-green wire on the wiring harness side. If the pump and wiring are in good condition, the pump should stay on. Grounding the white (on early engines) or blue-white wire will turn the pump off.

In cases where the pump does not operate or runs without delivering oil, remove the boats remote tank and inspect for corrosion, bad wiring or a plugged filter. You can test the pump by using jumper wires to put 12 volts directly to it. The brown wire is positive and the blue is negative.
Overflowing can result from several factors. If the pump continues to run and the oil level rises above the upper line on the tank, disconnect the wiring and ground out the white (on early engines) or blue-white wire. The pump will stop unless the oil-controller module is bad or there is a grounded blue wire in the harness somewhere between the pump and controller.

TESTING THE FLOAT SWITCH

An ohmmeter can be used to check the switches inside the main tanks float assembly. Carefully remove the unit, making sure the black foam sealing washer stays with the tubular filter element. If it remains in the tank, the seal can be forced into the feed hose going to the engine-driven metering pump which could block the flow of oil.
Hook up the negative lead to the black ground wire, and the positive lead to each other wire in turn. When you move the float, the ohmmeter should show that each switch \"closes\" when the float passes by. If any switches are defective, the assembly must be replaced. Be sure to install a new foam sealing washer every time the assembly is reinstalled.

Follow the service manual procedure when testing the remote tank's float switch. It is normally closed, and opens when activated by the float. Early models have electronics inside the assembly and require different test methods than later models containing the circuitry in the oil-controller.

Yamaha's Precision Blend oil-transfer system is very reliable, but as an outboard ages, problems may develop. Fortunately, it is a relatively easy system to troubleshoot with ordinary tools and an ohmmeter. Armed with this article and a service manual, you can enjoy the smug satisfaction of avoiding expensive shop time should a malfunction ever occur.




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Old 10-09-2015, 11:21 PM
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Default Found the problem with oil pump

I tested the remote pump connections at the remote tank and found both tanks had corroded wires inside the plastic cover. First tested the pump directly on brown (+) and blue(-) to see if pumped into main tank. After a about a minute to prime pump, it started to fill main tank. Good sign. Then connected four blade harness and tried there with no power. Took the float assembly out and checked conductivity with tester. One wire fell apart after I split open the rubber boot and the other only worked when giggled around. I reconnected some new bullet terminal connects and the manual emergency toggle works! Going to rewire the whole remote tank harness since I figure it was connecting by a thread and was bound to fail sometime. I guess by removing the tanks and moving around the wires broke whatever was left of the wires.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:38 PM
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Default Oil controller

Is oil controller and cdi the same thing? Mine pumps oil with emergency switch and or grounding blue wire out thats it please help
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:33 PM
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Default Oil controller

Where is 1990 225 etld oil controller located?
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Old 10-15-2017, 06:47 PM
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Damnit. I lied. The oil control function is embedded within the CDI on your model.
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Old 10-16-2017, 05:04 AM
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That sucks . I dont guess there is a person or company that rebuilds those cdi sre there ?
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