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2004 df90,115,140 cracked block - corrosion

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2004 df90,115,140 cracked block - corrosion

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Old 07-09-2015, 04:47 AM
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Default 2004 df90,115,140 cracked block - corrosion

Seem the corrosion issues with this series is not limited to the engine holder plug.

Diligent flushing may have been a problem from PRior owner.

Port side block see pics.

Did not tear it down but appears corrosion, scaling swelled and pushed out to develop crack. Running it on muffs this area gets much hotter, so may be an issue with a blocked passage and localized overheating causing boiled cooling water to build pressure.

I'm attempting to flush the crud, getting more and more aggressive with cleaners, small amounts of water seep out and still contain high amounts of salt.

If I feel it has been decrudded I may use some industrial epoxy and see if it will hold.

Anyone seen this before?

I found 2-3 others on various forums with same issue.

BTW. Using the flushing port apparently IS NOT adequately flushing the top of the motor, without the tstat open an air pocket develops at the top of the motor.

Considering a repower, this is 2004 Johnson/Suzuki. Will the current df90a be compatible with gauges? Harnesses? Any ideas?
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:13 AM
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I am wondering if the internal Zincs have been maintained on the motor, might check those first. That looks like a mess.
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:16 AM
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Possible freeze damage. Where is the boat located?
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:18 AM
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Is that a freeze crack???? Try with jb weld for repair.does head have zincs
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:20 AM
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Debugger beat me
can you post pic of head as early df , s had no zincs
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:20 AM
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Debugger beat me
can you post pic of head as early df , s had no zincs
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:27 AM
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Supposedly 2001-2008 had 1 zinc, part # 7.

http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/...il.asp?ID=1313

Originally Posted by mitch123 View Post
Debugger beat me
can you post pic of head as early df , s had no zincs
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HighSpeedPursuit View Post
Supposedly 2001-2008 had 1 zinc, part # 7.

http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/...il.asp?ID=1313
That one is in the block, and two more in the rectifier plate next to it.

http://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc/...tail.asp?ID=74
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:06 AM
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I bought a low hour Johnson 4 stroke (made by suzuki) with the same problem. I think there is a casting problem with some of these motors. The area that freeze broke was supposed to have a drain channel in the casting. On my motor, the sand casting did not go completely through, I drilled a few drain holes from the bottom up into the broken area. Then I resealed the cracked part, it works fine.
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:05 PM
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This has 4 zincs. 2 in the rectifier plate, 2 in the head.

They were likely not maintained.

I don't see how it could be freeze damage as it is at the very top of the block unless it didn't drain as sea-r-cy pointed out.

The boat is in fl. But came though South Carolina to missippi then to fl.

Sea-r-cy. What did you use to"seal it". I was looking for a small package of an industrial epoxy with higher specs than jb weld but the best I could come up with without buying a large package for lots of $$$$$ is jb weld

It is promising that a few seem to have had good results bonding it to seal it. That said I do venture far from port so I need reliability.

Any ideas if the new df90 props are compatable? Gauges?

Thanks for all the responses.

Last edited by Native77; 07-09-2015 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Native77 View Post
This has 4 zincs. 2 in the rectifier plate, 2 in the head.

They were likely not maintained.

I don't see how it could be freeze damage as it is at the very top of the block unless it didn't drain as sea-r-cy pointed out.

The boat is in fl. But came though South Carolina to missippi then to fl.

Sea-r-cy. What did you use to"seal it". I was looking for a small package of an industrial epoxy with higher specs than jb weld but the best I could come up with without buying a large package for lots of $$$$$ is jb weld

It is promising that a few seem to have had good results bonding it to seal it. That said I do venture far from port so I need reliability.

Any ideas if the new df90 props are compatable? Gauges?

Thanks for all the responses.

Gauges are compatible, but the gear ratio changed at some point so your prop is probably pitched too low. That area could hold water if the engine is stored fully trimmed up.

Here is a pic of my port engine with some notable points highlighted.

Red are anodes. Yellow is where the problem plug used to be. Green is the water pressure valve.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:46 PM
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What does the water pressure valve do? Limit the water pressure to the block?


As I'm getting quotes for a repower, I thought what the heck, let's see how a repair without breaking it down will work.


I got out the Dremel and some fancy diamond bits to begin surgery. I completely removed the corroded areas and reverse beveled it out so the jb could act like a rivet/plug meaning the bonding gap is wider on the inside so it can't simply push out.

Once it was all Cleaned out I then attempted to decrud inside, suprise, no crud.

Ran it on the muffs and no water flow into that area, a small weep. Someone mentions they had seem bad castings in theirs and opened up some cooling passages, so out comes the drill. From inside the cooling jacket behind the rectifier I somewhat carefully drilled 2 holes to,connect the cooling passages. Popped out the tstat slowly filled with a hose and viola water flow to that area.

I did notice as I was diagnosing the potential reasons fo failure, this area ran much hotter than adjacent areas. Opening up,the passage should provide some cooling and reduce the temps the jb weld will need to withstand.

Again thanks for the help guys.

Not sure I could get all the pics attached.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:50 PM
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Another pic
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Native77 View Post

Sea-r-cy. What did you use to"seal it". I was looking for a small package of an industrial epoxy with higher specs than jb weld but the best I could come up with without buying a large package for lots of $$$$$ is jb weld
My piece was completely pushed out. I had two problems, 1. seal it to withstand water pressure, and 2. hold the loose piece solidly to the block.

To seal it, used high temp silicone rubber. To hold the piece in place, I drilled and tapped two bolts to apply pressure to the loose piece. So far, the patch is holding.

First photo shows where I drilled the weep holes, zip ties are in holes for clarity.

Second photo shows the loose part "buttered" with silicone.

The third shows the block "buttered" before installing loose piece.

The last two photos are of the installed part. I did use epoxy to reinforce the bolt hole that was broken in the head. I have since cut off the ends of the bolts, and painted over the patch. So far, so good!
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:13 PM
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Some serious Macgyver action taking place.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:51 PM
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if that was my motor id weld the hell out of all those crack,,i assure you it wont crack by there any more
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Native77 View Post
What does the water pressure valve do? Limit the water pressure to the block?.
Yes. At high speed, it bleeds off some water pressure.

My engines are a bit different in that area. The head bolt is below the plug on mine, and there is a sensor below. I think that's a knock sensor or O2.
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