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Pictures of Crash Valve Set-Ups?

Old 03-17-2015, 11:24 AM
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Default Pictures of Crash Valve Set-Ups?

Looking to add at least one crash valve to the raw water intake. Can you guys post some pics of how you set them up or some part numbers?
Thanks!
Dave
Old 03-17-2015, 11:34 AM
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What kind of boat? Lots of boats go down by the bow when flooded, and unless engine room fwd bkd is sealed, an engine room crash pump is probably going to do little good.

Viking does this on some of their boats. Just a bronze tee, ball valve and suction strainer. I think their ER is separated from fwd bilge.

I'd just go with a big a$$ dc bilge pump or two.
Old 03-17-2015, 11:48 AM
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in real life with pump head and voltage considerations you would need like 6 bilge pumps to hope to keep up with a 2" hole in the boat.
Old 03-17-2015, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by pas View Post
in real life with pump head and voltage considerations you would need like 6 bilge pumps to hope to keep up with a 2" hole in the boat.
That's true, but a crash pump directs the enormous main engine raw water suction to the flooded bilge, and can move a BUNCH of water.
Old 03-17-2015, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TopCat View Post
That's true, but a crash pump directs the enormous main engine raw water suction to the flooded bilge, and can move a BUNCH of water.
sorry you are right I missed part about hooked up to the raw water intake in the original post.
Old 03-17-2015, 01:06 PM
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40 Ocean. Doing all of the engine room maint, so figured why not add one. Seeing how fast the Cats sucked up 5gal of antifreeze would argue a crash valve could be a great safety feature.
Old 03-17-2015, 01:57 PM
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I've had two kinds. The Viking has the strainers that are described above. Throw the valve handle and is sucks from the bilge. One on each engine.

I also had them on a Tiara that had a knockout about 2" across that you could pull out and draw from the bilge too.

I'll send pics tomorrow.
Old 03-17-2015, 02:00 PM
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Here's a simple set-up...You can also, as mentioned, run a hose with a bilge strainer and a ball valve into the raw water intake, prior to the strainer...These will indeed evacuate water at a fast rate, so much so in some cases, that you have to throttle the ball valve, or open the seacock to ensure the engine isn't starved of cooling water...
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Old 03-17-2015, 02:04 PM
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Big question is how the 40 Ocean bilge is configured. If water enters ER, does it just run to the fwd bilge or stop at the bulkhead?
Old 03-17-2015, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
Big question is how the 40 Ocean bilge is configured. If water enters ER, does it just run to the fwd bilge or stop at the bulkhead?
Not much of a fwd bilge area. Very small under the bedroom. Main section is the engine room and stern bilge which looks to flow together. There are bulkeds on each end of the engine room but I'm not certain they are completely sealed from each other.
Not losing sleep over it but i have it all apart so why not add a T to the seacock? Looks like the most common valve has a pop out plug at the T, so I would close the seacock and open the plug to drain the engine room. 2 seems like overkill. If I'm taking on more water than one engine plus 4 bilges can keep up with, I'm not sure an extra crash valve will keep me dry!

"Engine Flush Valve" may be the proper name. Also helps to flush with antifreeze without removing intake hoses.

Last edited by Ledge Fever; 03-17-2015 at 03:09 PM.
Old 03-17-2015, 05:25 PM
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2nd to a Crash valve is a cutter that can cut the raw water intake on the genny. Some tape a cutter to the intake line to the genny for emergencies.
Old 03-17-2015, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Commocean View Post
These will indeed evacuate water at a fast rate, so much so in some cases, that you have to throttle the ball valve, or open the seacock to ensure the engine isn't starved of cooling water...
There was a thread on here a few years ago and that is what happened. Big boat taking on lots of water because the captain hit an oil rig or something. He switched to the crash pumps and started running home. Engines got starved for water and overheated, going into limp mode and the boat sunk. It was a nice new boat too.
Old 03-17-2015, 10:39 PM
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With crash pumps you have to be really aware of the dynamic situation as far as engine cooling needs and bilge water levels. Some feel it may be better to have seacock remain open ,say, 1/3 and crash valve off the RW pump supply hose "T" open varying amount as needed but either way care must be taken to not let the RW pump get air-bound. Throttling up in gear will increase crash system flow but in most cases will also shift bilge levels aft as bow rises. (Something like an air-sensing valve that would close until water was sensed outside again would be just the ticket to avoid sucking air in the bilge without manual intervention., kind of the reverse idea of a water heater Watts air-purging valve, heh.)

I have them "T"-d off both my 2 I/Bs' hoses from the sea strainers but I know it would be difficult to balance water source in emergency situation if I could not get someone else to run the boat at my direction while I balance the valves down below.

I have never had occasion to use them as yet and hope I never have to, but they each have the potential to greatly increase pumping protection well beyond the 2 2000 gph deep and stern pumps. 1 even has a long enough hose to reach another boat's bilge if really really necessary and deemed prudent to attempt.


Even if they just prolong time the boat is still afloat while comms can be instituted that could be a big help. In many cases a lot more clarifying Mayday info can be passed via VHF than EPIRB before the latter is needed.

These are gasser engines , but even those RW pumps Crusader specs at minimum output of 5 gallons in 15 seconds at 4000 rpm.
That's theoretically really only ~~ 1200 GPH capacity each side or 2400 GPH total added pumping for the 2 setups. All in all , on my boat an added 3000 GPH ( less head-rise factor) conventional bilge pump with slightly raised-level float would likely supply the same emergency pumping capacity , without concern for needed valve manipulations. But I still like having the crash pumps. I do need to install bilge pickup strainers on the hose ends though, to help protect the RW pumps.
Old 03-18-2015, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by BoulderGT3 View Post
I've had two kinds. The Viking has the strainers that are described above. Throw the valve handle and is sucks from the bilge. One on each engine.

I also had them on a Tiara that had a knockout about 2" across that you could pull out and draw from the bilge too.

I'll send pics tomorrow.
We have the same set up as described on the Viking on our Bertram 54.
Old 03-18-2015, 05:04 AM
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Check this out. This is a local charter boat whose rudder seal broke. The bilge pumps were not keeping up and since it's a commercial 45'+ boat I suspect they have a lot of pump capacity...but it wasn't enough. They could have used a crash valve to the raw water pump in this situation. They were 50 miles offshore, got the leak slowed down, and had the travel lift ready as soon as they made it to port.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2mjWuHcXNg
Old 03-18-2015, 05:24 AM
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Thanks guys and I agree. It's not a perfect solution and hope to never use it. I figured the seacock would need to remain partially open. From what I saw when winterizing, the motor would likely suck up water faster than it was coming in. Good problem to have I guess. The engine temp would not be my focus if I was up to my knees in sea water. If anything, it could give me 5-10 more minutes or longer to get people into safety gear, raft, or make a sat phone call. The flush valve I see that Grocco makes is a 2" valve but the T is only 3/4 so water intake would be limited to about 5000gph per motor as my engineering buddy tells me. But that's like 4-6 more bilge pumps mid ship that can be redirected elsewhere with hoses attached. Not an argument over the value, just curious how everyone set them up. Hate to put too many links in the chain as any part can fail.
Much appreciated.
Old 03-18-2015, 05:50 AM
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grocco sbv saftey seacock ... ready made to go
Old 03-18-2015, 12:37 PM
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I think I am going to add one to my 5kw diesel generator. This way in theory I could run that and not have to worry about doing damage to the mains and make headway back to port as fast at the boat will go.
Thoughts? I need to find out how much water the generator will suck?
KR
Old 03-18-2015, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by keith r View Post
I think I am going to add one to my 5kw diesel generator. This way in theory I could run that and not have to worry about doing damage to the mains and make headway back to port as fast at the boat will go.
Thoughts? I need to find out how much water the generator will suck?
KR
The gph of my geni vs my engines was night and day. Can't hurt but I would think the geni is comparable to a bilge pump flow.
Old 03-18-2015, 02:49 PM
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You can pick up a trash pump from harbor freight for 300 dollars that will probably pump way more than either your engine or your generator.

http://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-2...gpm-69746.html

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