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Downeaster boat project

Old 03-01-2016, 08:09 PM
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Really cool project
Old 03-06-2016, 07:00 PM
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The stringers came out great, I'm really happy with them. They released off the mold easily, the turtle wax worked good. Had a little bit of trouble with one bulkhead because I didn't give it enough angle, they have to be wider at the bottom than the top. Probably should have made them about 2" wider at the bottom than the top.

They are surprisingly light, I estimate 100-200 lb. I got them out of the boat by myself if that tells you how much they weigh.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:09 PM
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The transom was still strong in this thing. It was wet on one side but not that bad. It could have easily gotten more use out of it but I'm glad I went ahead and replaced it now. I used a circular saw and set the depth so it was cutting through the inner skin and the core then cut lines about every two inches. It worked great, they just popped right out with a hammer and flat bar. The corner areas gave me some trouble were I couldn't reach with the saw but not to bad.

The factory did a good job on this transom. They filled the areas were the scuppers were with thickened resin and cut out around the bilge plug to prevent water from coming in through the fasteners.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:32 PM
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I replaced the core with marine ply and cut out anywhere I had to put a fastener through the transom. I'll fill them with thickened resin or glass around them and put the plug back in so its separated from the rest of transom core. The cut outs are for scuppers, trim tabs, rigging tubes and u-bolts.

I haven't covered it with fiberglass yet, I need to wait until it kicks so I can remove the clamps. This transom was really strait and didn't need much to straighten it out so two 2x4's the width of the transom with lag bolts was plenty to draw it together.
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Old 03-07-2016, 04:46 AM
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Looks great, what did you use to cut out all the notches in the transom core? The edges all look rounded, are they only rounded on one side so the inner skin wraps the corners better?
Old 03-07-2016, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Chip231 View Post
Looks great, what did you use to cut out all the notches in the transom core? The edges all look rounded, are they only rounded on one side so the inner skin wraps the corners better?
Thanks

I used a jig saw to cut everything out except the holes for the transom bracket bolts, i used a drill with a 1" wood bit.

All the corners that i will have to wrap glass over the corner i used a router with a 1/2" round-over bit and i also did the inside edge one the edges and bottom because the existing glass already has a radius.
Old 03-07-2016, 01:33 PM
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Really nice work.
Old 03-07-2016, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TsunamiTsling View Post
Really nice work.
Thanks
Old 03-08-2016, 07:51 PM
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I'm trying to decide how to make the holes for the scuppers. I thought about making some fiberglass tubes about 1 1/2" diameter then cut a 2" hole through the core board. Insert the fiberglass tube and fill the 1/4" void with thickened resin.

I also thought about just drilling a 1 1/2" diameter hole through the core and filling it with thickened resin. Then after it is dry drill a 1" hole through the thickened resin. How well does a drill bit work when you drill through thickened resin? Any cracks from drilling through it?
Old 03-08-2016, 09:06 PM
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good job
Old 03-09-2016, 06:57 AM
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I see "Alexa" is coming along well.
Old 03-09-2016, 09:48 AM
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You can buy premade fiberglass tubing in all different sizes cheap. That's what I used and just epoxied them in. They will never rot and look molded into the hull.
Old 03-09-2016, 09:59 AM
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Might help
http://www.mcmaster.com/#fiberglass-...ubing/=11gryo2
Old 03-09-2016, 11:07 AM
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Super clean work surv.......very nice!
My transom could have gone on for many more years as well but.....you just don't know till you get in to it.
Now you know it will be one hell of a solid vessel.
Thanks to H2O for the link above, I'm going to order some of that FRP tubing.
D
Old 03-09-2016, 05:20 PM
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Thanks everyone for the compliments and advise, I greatly appreciate it.
Old 03-10-2016, 09:11 AM
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Thinking about the steering cable. I currently have a standard type steering cable you see on most transom mounted outboards but I'm not sure how to rig it with the motor on a bracket. Right now I have two rigging holes at the top of the transom. Do I need to cut another one for the steering cable? I need to run the power supply and ignition, fuel line, and control cables for throttle and shift. I would like to have a tube from the transom to the motor covering the cables but I don't know we're to put the steering cable because it goes down under the cowling not into it like the other cables.
What is the standard way of running the steering cable on a transom bracket outboard?

Last edited by surv; 03-10-2016 at 10:00 AM.
Old 03-10-2016, 05:49 PM
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From what I can find the standard way to rig the steering with a bracket is a hydraulic system. Two additional holes for the hydraulic hoses are needed. I haven't figured out if they are rigged with a hydraulic system out of necessity or preference.
Old 03-10-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by surv View Post
From what I can find the standard way to rig the steering with a bracket is a hydraulic system. Two additional holes for the hydraulic hoses are needed. I haven't figured out if they are rigged with a hydraulic system out of necessity or preference.
That is what I would do
Seastar helm and cylinder requires two small bulkhead fittings in the transom.
Old 03-10-2016, 08:07 PM
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Nice work! Subscribed.
Old 03-10-2016, 08:31 PM
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Very cool. That is going to be rugged!

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