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-   -   Downeaster boat project (https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/634828-downeaster-boat-project.html)

surv 02-07-2016 05:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Got one set of bulkheads in.

ChiefD 02-07-2016 07:18 PM


Originally Posted by surv (Post 8690390)
Thanks CheifD,
I have been following your build, nice work. I'm glad you found my project.

I'm planning on using 12 oz uni-glass and mat to build up a thickness of about 3/8" thick. Then tab them in with a few layers of woven roven and mat. To be honest with you I don't know how thick they need to be just shooting off the hip a little bit. If they feels flimsy then ill add more glass. I'll also pour them full of foam so that should make them more ridged.

I have an old Skeeter with similar construction and it doesn't have more than 1/4" thick glass on the stringers so I think 3/8" will be plenty thick.

Thanks surv,
I'll have to do some take offs and arithmetic to see how it compares. Not familiar with 12 oz uni-glass. The 34oz triaxial I'm working with is about .050 per layer. For me to get to 3/8 or .375 that would be about 7 layers of triaxe with a mat layer between each one (using poly).

I'll do some homework and report back.

Keep up the nice work!
D

surv 02-07-2016 09:00 PM


Originally Posted by ChiefD (Post 8691197)
Thanks surv,
I'll have to do some take offs and arithmetic to see how it compares. Not familiar with 12 oz uni-glass. The 34oz triaxial I'm working with is about .050 per layer. For me to get to 3/8 or .375 that would be about 7 layers of triaxe with a mat layer between each one (using poly).

I'll do some homework and report back.

Keep up the nice work!
D

Sounds good, let me know what you come up with. Seven layers of 34oz triaxial and mat sound like overkill. I was thinking more like 6 layers total 3 12oz uniglass and 3 layers of 1.5 oz mat. Maybe that would get me around 1/4"?

Uni-glass is single orientation glass, normally its used at a 0/90 alternating directions each layer. I bought it from a guy that had it left over from a boat he built. He practically gave it to me, $100 for 2 1/2 50" rolls. Approximately 440 lbs.

surv 02-07-2016 09:03 PM


Originally Posted by H2OBUG (Post 8690654)
That old big block V-4 Johnson will roll. Rework her and name her Alexis just for kicks.

:rofl:

mattsmall1972 02-10-2016 09:26 AM

That wood for the stringers... that's OSB isn't it? If it gets any water at all in it, it's going to expand like a balloon. I'm not a boat repair expert, but I've used OSB on other projects and seen it get wet. The glue isn't likely to be waterproof either.

As far as the bracket again, it should be fine on that hull, and from every experience I've had, makes the boat ride better. I can't think of any upside to notching this boat.

Tabman 02-10-2016 09:34 AM


Originally Posted by mattsmall1972 (Post 8700352)
That wood for the stringers... that's OSB isn't it? If it gets any water at all in it, it's going to expand like a balloon. I'm not a boat repair expert, but I've used OSB on other projects and seen it get wet. The glue isn't likely to be waterproof either.

As far as the bracket again, it should be fine on that hull, and from every experience I've had, makes the boat ride better. I can't think of any upside to notching this boat.

Those are the molds he is building to make fiberglass stringers http://www.thehulltruth.com/8672404-post31.html

I see there is a Bennett Trim Tab pump back on the transom. Do you know if it works?

Tom
Bennett Marine

81Malibu 02-10-2016 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by mattsmall1972 (Post 8700352)
That wood for the stringers... that's OSB isn't it? If it gets any water at all in it, it's going to expand like a balloon. I'm not a boat repair expert, but I've used OSB on other projects and seen it get wet. The glue isn't likely to be waterproof either.

As far as the bracket again, it should be fine on that hull, and from every experience I've had, makes the boat ride better. I can't think of any upside to notching this boat.

I think the osb is for stronger molds.

mattsmall1972 02-10-2016 10:17 AM


Originally Posted by Tabman (Post 8700383)
Those are the molds he is building to make fiberglass stringers http://www.thehulltruth.com/8672404-post31.html

I see there is a Bennett Trim Tab pump back on the transom. Do you know if it works?

Tom
Bennett Marine

Thanks for setting me straight. I missed that part about it being a mold and was wondering why everybody else wasn't chiming in as well.

surv 02-10-2016 12:28 PM


Originally Posted by Tabman (Post 8700383)
Those are the molds he is building to make fiberglass stringers http://www.thehulltruth.com/8672404-post31.html

I see there is a Bennett Trim Tab pump back on the transom. Do you know if it works?

Tom
Bennett Marine

I dont know if they work or not. I hope they do because i would like to use them.

I'll test them and let you know.

Tabman 02-10-2016 12:50 PM


Originally Posted by surv (Post 8701113)
I dont know if they work or not. I hope they do because i would like to use them.

I'll test them and let you know.

Great project by the way!

Here is an easy way to test with a battery.

Hook the black ground wire to 12 v neg.

Then put 12 v positive to the wires at the pump as follows:
(+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
(+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
(+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
(+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
(+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
(+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

Tom
Bennett Marine

surv 02-10-2016 01:49 PM


Originally Posted by Tabman (Post 8701222)
Great project by the way!

Here is an easy way to test with a battery.

Hook the black ground wire to 12 v neg.

Then put 12 v positive to the wires at the pump as follows:
(+), blue, red= Port trim tab down
(+), blue, green=Starboard trim tab down
(+), blue, red, green= Both trim tabs down
(+), yellow, red= Port trim tab up
(+), yellow, green=Starboard trim tab up
(+), yellow, red, green= Both trim tabs up

Tom
Bennett Marine

Thanks Tom,

I really appreciate the advise!

surv 02-14-2016 07:48 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Ive been scratching my head for the best way to cover the stringers and after many ideas I finally said the heck with it and threw some plastic over them and went to work. About 6hrs later here is what I ended up with. Overall they are ok but theres about 25% that looks poor but will work and about 10% that probably needs to be cut out before moving forward. This is just one layer of chop mat so theres lots more fiberglass to wet out.

The biggest problem I had was the roller kept picking one up the plastic and it wouldn't lay flat on the mold. Normally when you are wetting out fiberglass it wants to stick to the surface more than the roller/brush but in this case its the opposite. You can see in the last picture were I couldn't get the fiberglass to lay flat.

The good is that now I have a solid surface that I can start laminating and it easily picks up off the mold.

In hine site the plastic should be thicker, about 3.5mil or more. It should also be glued with some type of contact adhesive to the plug or at a minimum stapled. After doing that it would help to wax it to aide in releasing it from the mold. Maybe just spray the mold with pva or wax it, I don't know.

daveschw 02-14-2016 10:01 AM

Looks good!
I used plastic packing tape on my stringer molds, but did it the reverse way.
Poured foam into the molds, removed the molds, shaped the foam, and then glassed over.

If I did it again, I'd probably not use any molds/forms, and use NidaCore for the stringer sides and to raise the stringer height, and then glass it all over. And inject pour foam inside.

ChiefD 02-14-2016 11:48 AM

Surv,
I've used aluminum foil or wax paper and 3m spray adhesive on some smaller simpler mold projects.

Can't imagine trying to glass over what I see in the first picture but the last picture looks good!

BTW.....I cut a chunk out of my transom I just glassed, 4 layers of 34 oz triaxial is exactly 1/4 " using a tape measure not a micrometer so....it would take me 6 layers to get 3/8. Decided to go marine ply/epoxy/triaxe on my stringers, my take off numbers came out quite a bit cheaper this route.

Keep up the good work!
D

surv 02-14-2016 12:27 PM


Originally Posted by daveschw (Post 8714566)
Looks good!
I used plastic packing tape on my stringer molds, but did it the reverse way.
Poured foam into the molds, removed the molds, shaped the foam, and then glassed over.

If I did it again, I'd probably not use any molds/forms, and use NidaCore for the stringer sides and to raise the stringer height, and then glass it all over. And inject pour foam inside.

Thanks daveschw,
That's probably a good way of doing it. It would be nice to have something inside that you could just leave there.

surv 02-14-2016 12:38 PM


Originally Posted by ChiefD (Post 8714841)
Surv,
I've used aluminum foil or wax paper and 3m spray adhesive on some smaller simpler mold projects.

Can't imagine trying to glass over what I see in the first picture but the last picture looks good!

BTW.....I cut a chunk out of my transom I just glassed, 4 layers of 34 oz triaxial is exactly 1/4 " using a tape measure not a micrometer so....it would take me 6 layers to get 3/8. Decided to go marine ply/epoxy/triaxe on my stringers, my take off numbers came out quite a bit cheaper this route.

Keep up the good work!
D

Thanks D,
It was a mess, I bet wax paper would work well instead of plastic. Even just a few staples would have made a big difference. I figured it would kind of weight it down and want to lay flat but I didn't think about it wanting to keep sticking to the roller.

Maybe a female mold instead of a male mold would have worked better. It would actually be easier to make than the male mold. You can kind of tell from the pics when I started that the initial stringers looked more like a female mold than a male mold.

As far as the price I'm using poly resin so I think I'm still a bit cheaper this way than on my Anacapri. If you factor in the epoxy like you are using I agree it would be cheaper to use marine ply.

surv 02-15-2016 05:07 PM

I worked on repairing the problem areas for about 30 min. them got disgusted with it and tore it all out. I hate backing up like that but its better to stop now and correct it than keep building on top of the problem. I wished I would have hung it up when I started instead of covering the whole thing.

Like the saying goes, " Don't have time to do it right the first time but have time to do it twice"

I just about have it covered with plastic again and this time did it with a little bit of feeling. I used heavier plastic and stapled all the corners and seams, then taped them with packaging tape, it should be much better.

I probably need to wax it or oil it with something, any suggestions?

ChiefD 02-15-2016 08:37 PM

My hats off to you!
We all mess up from time to time and hate doing double work but.......if it ain't right to you now then it won't be right later.

Why the wax on the plastic? Are you worried the plastic will stick to the laminate. Once you pop it off the mold any stuck plastic should pull right off the glass.......I would think. Haven't done it with plastic but the foil or wax paper does.
D

surv 02-16-2016 05:43 PM

1 Attachment(s)
That's round two. I stapled it and taped the corners with masking tape. Since the corners were problem areas last time I wet out 6" wide strips and did several of the corners first. I also tried laying it out thicker in a few spots. The results were the same, the plastic buckled and wouldn't lay flat. I think the poly resin actually breaks down the plastic some and it expands leaving it loose.

I am considering to can this idea all together and use marine ply like my other boat. I don't think I want to put the time and money into making this mold into a waxed and polished mirror like finish that are used by boat builders.

blackfinmike 02-16-2016 06:00 PM

Vacuum bag it


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