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Old 10-02-2014, 12:52 PM   #21
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Nm I see you have different rigging chute for forward seating vs original. Is it just a different stringer grid or is this same setup for original now?
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Old 10-02-2014, 12:55 PM   #22
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The stringers look a lot like a Seacraft.
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:04 PM   #23
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those headlights make anyone else nervous? seems like a potential leak to me...
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:24 PM   #24
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So you bed the liner on putty at the hull joint, the stringers tops and the full height of the hull sides? That's a very strong bond. Almost overkill. Freakin tank.
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Old 10-02-2014, 01:54 PM   #25
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I love Albury's and drive by the sales/rigging facility almost every day on my way to work. Stopping in from time to time to see the new hulls going out. The 33 is a beast.

This thread is a great look into how the boats are built. Thanks for posting these pictures.

The one sticking point with me on Albury's is that the gutters for the in-floor storage and bilge access drain into the hull. (Please correct me if I'm wrong). I really think a self bailing deck is a big consideration in an offshore hull. Wash down the boat, leave the boat out in a rain storm, or take a wave over the bow and water will find it's way into the hull.

Could a glassed in PVC drainage system be utilized like Nortech does? Maybe make it an option? With this modification I think Albury's would be the perfect boat for me.

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Old 10-02-2014, 02:25 PM   #26
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Drain around hatches would be too close to water line cause more of an issue. Water on the deck goes out side suppers on the forward seating version. No different than your current boat. Why are you afraid of a headlight? 3 piece boat if it leaks it goes on deck and a couple feet above water
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Old 10-02-2014, 08:26 PM   #27
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Response to questions:

The forward seating model has a fish box. This box is full width between the stringers, so the rigging chute is lead outboard of the stringers. This required notching the stringer top on the starboard side abaft the fuel tank. Kean observation!

The bond is definetly overkill from a engineering perspective. Notice the ShopVac in the boat. We pull a vacuum so there is 100% adhesion between the parts.

Hatch landings are easily drained overboard using clear plastic tubing. Glassing PVC under liner in our boat, is like killing a ant with a sub-machine gun, and it would create a elevation/drainage problem. We stopped running drains for the landings on the 27 because it's not worth it. They easily clog, which causes water to be retained, then slim and mold appear. The amount of water cleared by the hatch landings is tiny and we feel poses little risk Most water sheets off the deck and out the scuppers. We never bothered doing it with the 23 and there have been no reported issues. That said, we will gladly do it upon request but we advise against it.

Same answer for the "headlights". No reported issues but happy to put lights where ever your comfortable. We like the shark eye nav lights because they have no impact on your night vision. On dark nights, indirect light will kill your ability to see markers.
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Old 10-04-2014, 03:15 PM   #28
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Old 10-04-2014, 03:30 PM   #29
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Look at the way the hull liner fits over the transom at the splash well, nicely engineered, close tolerances, and no worries about water getting under the cap molding.
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:11 AM   #30
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Any chance of seeing this thread finished?
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:25 PM   #31
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Updates, where are the updates?
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Old 01-29-2015, 05:32 PM   #32
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Cj cj cj
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Old 05-11-2015, 07:23 AM   #33
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After assembly, the hull, swim platform, console, hard-top, live well, etc… are moved into the paint and finish department. There, the boat may receive various Awl-Grip color and anti-fouling bottom paint options. For example, the 23’ pictured is getting a boot stripe and painted cockpit sole. To lay out the stripe, precise marks are created using a laser level. We then tape-off and bag the hull to create crisp lines and protect it from overspray. The spray rails are painted to match the color of the hull above the stripe, and blended with a bottom color if necessary. Scupper covers and swim platform also receive a matching paint treatment.

Many clients like our two-tone cockpit sole to keep the glare down. We choose to do this with paint, as opposed to gelcoat. The cockpit sole is taped off to match the non-skid pattern in our mold. We prep the surface by sanding and wiping with Wil-bond. A coat of paint is rolled on, then we spray a blend of Grip-Tex extra course and fine non-skid particles in the wet paint. Finally, another coat of paint is applied to “lock” the particles in. We add flattening agent to this final coat to de-gloss the sole so it is not slippery when wet.

A noteworthy task during the finishing process is the attention to the transom “seam”, where the liner meets the hull. In many cases, trim is used to mask this area. We take the time to neatly finish and blend that seam, which results in less maintenance and a clean aesthetic. The edges of all our parts receive this same finish treatment. It adds a lot of labor time, but is a significant contribution to the long term value of the boat.

While the hull receives the stripe and cockpit color, the console, hard-top, swim platform, and other small parts are thoroughly inspected for imperfections, touched up, buffed, and polished before heading over to rigging. Our hard top is built using a two-piece mold, so after being “sandwiched” together and held under vacuum, the edge is finished and painted.
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:35 AM   #34
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where is the rest of the finished pics..beautiful boat
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:16 PM   #35
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:15 PM   #36
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Our rigging department begins working on the console and hard-top sub-assembly before they receive the hull. The console receives its breaker box, switches and harness, helm, engine rigging, electronics, pumps, filters and windshield. The hardtop is outfitted with various LED lights, speakers, and the electronics box is pre-assembled with stereo and VHF if equipped. The pipe work is then attached to the top while it is upside-down. We start by placing a drill jig on the hardtop to lay out the pad and fastener locations. When those are marked, the holes are drilled, and the area the pads will sit is bedded with 5200. The legs are tapped to accept a fastener and backing plate from the top, so no there are no visible fasteners underneath. When both units are complete, the hard top is rotated upright and suspended over the console using stands. Once the height and alignment are dialed in, the legs are bedded in 5200 and bolted to the console. The completed unit is lifted in and aligned. We align the console (fore and aft) differently in every boat, to maintain the desired CG, depending on options selected. For example, a 23 with twin engines and/or a live-well would have the console further forward than one without. When this alignment is complete, we mark the console perimeter and pre-drill all the holes. The console is lifted up, the sole sanded, then dropped back down in a bed of 5200. Screws are also coated in 5200, and installed.

If the boat is getting a live-well/leaning post, it is assembled prior to installation. The fiberglass unit receives the bait-well lid, aluminum backrest, flip-up seat cushion, and fold-out tackle center. The live-well is set aside and installed after the console is in place to provide consistent spacing between the two pieces.

Prior to the console/top being installed, the hull gets hatch holds and gaskets, rear bench seat brackets and receivers, speakers, and so forth, because we have more elbow room. Once the console is in place, the hull wiring can marry with the console wiring, the batteries are connected, and the helm seat can be installed. If the leaning post live-well is ordered, the pre-assembled unit can be lifted in and installed on the boat. The fill hose is brought up through the sole and attached to the fitting on the well. The drain/overflow hose is plumbed in rigging, and the overboard thru-hull is installed as well.

While the engine is un-crated and suspended, the steering cylinder is installed and holes drilled into the transom using a jig. The holes are resin coated, and when dry, the engine is hung, the rigging connected, the steering is connected and bled of air. The fiberglass swim platform is installed, ensuring proper clearance of the engine when hard over.
Finishing touches such as upholstery and canvas are installed. All systems are verified to be working, and she is ready for her sea-trial. We inspect the boat both aesthetically and functionally, put a few hours on her to make sure she runs as advertised and everything works well. Finally, she gets her final finish, including buff and wax, and any punch list items are addressed.

Attention to detail during every step of the build process is the key to a well executed boat. We like to think we are relentless in that regard.
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:17 PM   #37
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In the water
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Old 10-02-2015, 02:42 PM   #38
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Beautiful
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Old 10-02-2015, 03:44 PM   #39
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Really like the lines on these boats.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:31 PM   #40
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Like the new switch panel and battery switch breaker box panel. Relay cleans up wiring from previous production
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