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Yamaha F250 Ignition Switch

Old 03-08-2014, 04:35 AM
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Default Yamaha F250 Ignition Switch

Yamaha F250
Hi
I have a Yamaha F250TXR and I am having a problem with the Ignition switch. The switch has 3 postions
Off
On and Start
When I return the switch to the off position, the motor cuts, but the power to the gauges stays on
The switch has 8 wires, 6 are unique colors, but 2 of the wires are yellow. I am assuming that the 1 off the yellows is a power in and the other is a switched power.
Can anyone confirm if I am on the right track here
Thanks
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:41 AM
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Here is a wiring chart for a conventional 10 pin harness.
Yellow is key on 12v.
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Old 03-08-2014, 06:53 AM
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More info on the key switch.

Red is un switched 12 volt positive power from the battery.

Yellow is switched power. Red changes to yellow across the switch when the switch is ON or in the Start position.


Last edited by jethro1; 03-09-2014 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 03-09-2014, 05:59 AM
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Default Yamaha F250 Ignition Switch

Hi Parker Yacht and jethro1

Thanks for the great responses.

jethro1, I am attaching a picture of my actual switch. I wouldn't be able to create a sketch like yours so

hopefully this will be clear enough

My switch differs from the one in your sketch in that it has 8 wires going into it. From below the kill

switch

top 2 wires from left are white then red - then
2nd row 2 yellow wires
bottom row blue, brown and then 2 blacks

The position you show as unconnected has a blue wire going into it

Going into the switch, the reds are bridged, one side into the motor harness and the other into the switch
The yellow in is also bridged with one side going into the alarm buzzer
White is bridged, one side going into the kill switch, the other into the switch
Black is bridged, one side going into the kill switch, the other into the switch

I haven't done the motor tests yet as I am not sure if its OK to run the F250 with a muff. Yamaha seems

to recommend flushing only with a hose connected and not running with a muff. Your input here will also be

appreciated.

While on Electrics (and this may be related), as soon as I switch on the batteries, I get a humming noise from the engine area. When I remove the 1st fuse from the left (marked electric throttle valve), the humming noise stops

Thanks again for the help so far
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:35 AM
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What Gauges are you running?

Yamaha Mulitifunction (Round)
or
Yamaha Command Link (Square)
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:24 AM
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If anything stays on in the OFF position ??

It is connected to the battery power all the time.............See if turning OFF the big battery disconnect switch finally turns off the gauges.
The humming should be a bilge pump with water holding the float up ..........or a stuck UP float.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:28 AM
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I misread your original message. Thought you were saying that the motor died when the switch was released from the Start position to the On position. Sorry. Must have had too many beers.

When the key is in the On or the Start position then and only then should the yellow wire(s) be powered. Any/all of them.

Do a continuity test through the switch between the red and the yellow wires. There should be no continuity when the switch is in the Off position and there should be continuity when the switch is in the On position.

The hum that you are hearing is the electronic throttle valve. The ETV is normally powered when the key is turned to the On position. If the switch is defective and allowing power to the yellow wire when the switch is in the Off position, then this defect will power the gauges and the ETV.

Hope I got it right this time. It is hard to trouble shoot from a distance. Again, sorry for any confusion.
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Old 03-09-2014, 08:36 AM
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Go with jethro1 on the engine area hum.

Molded switch might be shot if wiring is not butchered up with jury rigs
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:14 PM
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Hi all

Removed and tested the switch with a multimeter. The switch tests OK.

No power from red to - Yellow, Brown (or blue with switch depressed.)

Power (connectivity) to yellow (from Red) when on and

Power (connectivity)to brown when in start - and power (connectivity) to Blue when switch depressed.

I still get power to the ECV though even when the switch is removed and batteries on - no power to the gauges. Could this be a faulty ECV relay ?

No power to anything when battery switch off

Will try trace the wires to the gauges today to try work out where the gauges can be picking up power with switch off

Thanks again
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:33 PM
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Do you have the motor displaying engine data on a chart plotter?

Do you have Command Link instruments installed?

Is this a new problem that just showed up?
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Old 03-11-2014, 08:14 PM
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Hi jethro1

Motor not connected to chart plotter (chart plotter not on boat at the moment)

I dont know what command link instruments are, I am guessing they might be bus connected devices, if so, no, dont have any bus (network ?) connections

This problem occurred a while back and then cleared itself. FYI, I have just checked voltage and have found 12v on the yellow coming in from the engine harness, but no voltage on the yellow in the 4 wire harness, green, yellow, black and red, so it seems I might be picking up 12v on yellow somewhere in the engine ?

What with this problem and the ECV, do you think it might be getting to take it to the Yamaha dealer ?
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:44 PM
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Hi

Response for Paker Yacht re Gauges - They are multifunction round. This is an older boat (1998) with a repower (2006 Yamaha F250TXR) so may be the original gauges. Could this be where the problem is originating. I will check all wiring to the gauges to see if any are 12 Volt

Cheers

Cheers
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Old 03-12-2014, 02:25 AM
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Sounds to me like someone did some splicing.
I believe they changed connectors between 98' and 06', therefore you would either need adapters or do some cut and splicing.
Here are charts from 2001, which will be the same as 98' and 06' .
I think the switch on connectors was in 05'.
Don't worry about the two stroke stuff.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:31 AM
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Have you replaced the warning buzzer for any reason? What control box is installed? Side mount or top mount? New with the motor installation or was the old one reused?

This has got me stumped. The ETV only (should) get its power when the switch is on or in the start position.

You first noted that the gauges were being powered even though the switch was in the Off position. Now it seems that the gauges are turning off but the ETV remains powered. Is this correct?

If the ETV remains powered it will drain the battery. Might be time to have a mechanic inspect the boat and the motor.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:04 PM
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Default Yamaha F250 Ignition Switch

Hi all

Finally found the problem. Tested and found only 1 yellow wire with 12v. WAs the one going into the main harness. Then started tracing back from the Control area to the back of the boat. Found an area of cable that had been chaffed and 2 wires were open and shorting - Red and yellow - see picture.

Dont know yet if this will turn out to be the problem with the ETV, but will let you know after I have cut the and repaired the wires and triple insulated the cover with glue lined heatshrink!

Thanks again for all your input
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:07 PM
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Default Yamaha F250 Ignition Switch

Picture missing - trying again
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:06 AM
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I think you found it. Obviously with the yellow wire being powered by the red wire then the ETV will remain powered up. Same as if the key switch was turned on.

Now what was causing the gauges to continue to be lit up when the key switch was off?

"When I return the switch to the off position, the motor cuts, but the power to the gauges stays on"
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:51 PM
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Default Yamaha F250 Ignition Switch

Hi All

I have re-joined the 10 wires and individually insualted them with glue lined heat shrink and I have tested the keyswitch again

Batteries on and

Keyswitch off - Gauges remain off and ETV silent

Keyswitch on - Gauges on and ETV still silent.

I am assuming that the ETV will only activate now when the throttle tells it to ?

After I am happy that all is well (and I think it looks like it is), I will pull up the 2nd layer of heatshrink which I have measured to cover the 10 wires from Sheath to sheath, then pull over the 2nd heatshrink which will cover the 1st and cover both ends of the original harness cable which I am pretty sure will keep thigs insualted and corrosion free

I will also make sure their is no chance of abrasion again where the cable goes through the transom

Once again thanks for all the input. I believe I have learnt a lot from this lesson
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Old 02-27-2018, 12:49 PM
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Default 250 Yamaha

When I turn ignition switch on there is no power to gauges, but motor will start. Any ideas?
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