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New boat. Why are My screws Rotting?

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New boat. Why are My screws Rotting?

Old 11-11-2012, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bc22;5091512[B
]stray current from an electrical issue from the dock or another boat could also be cause.[/B]
i've seen crazy damage from accelerated electrolysis with near catastrophic effects.

ask tide water what they do for proper boat bonding system and see if they have a wiring schematic for your reference.
Only if he is plugged into the shore power.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Thalasso View Post
There is one of your problems if it isn't marine rated
Is the trickle charger a Marine rated device or something you got some automotive parts store? The problem could be that simple.

Originally Posted by makokeith View Post
That stainless garboard drain should not be below saltwater all the time. It is meant for trailered boats. But that is the least of your problems. Here is a link on electrolysis.
http://yachtpals.com/how-to/electrolysis

Good luck.


It's kind of stupid coming on here as vocabulary police, it's an anti-ventilation plate not a cavitation plate but Yamaha uses the term cavitation plate in their owner's manual

In this case its galvanic corrosion, electrolysis is a process, galvanic corrosion is the result and here's a quality article that can't get that right




Gerald
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Terminator Tackle View Post
It's a tide water.

I even had my structure scan transom mount transducer screws rot right off. Boat was new in the spring. My dad has a 1987 whaler and there is less rust..

I'm wondering if I'm getting bad electrolysis
Originally Posted by Terminator Tackle View Post
Engine can not come completely out of the water. it sits in the water about 3 inches. The batteries are off but I do Have a Trickle charger hooked up
Is there any zinc left on your swivel bracket?
And about that trickle charger
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Old 11-13-2012, 05:25 AM
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Default I have the same boarding ladder. see pix

new boat bought in 2010, used about 30 times in salt water. kept on trailer.
the ladder in post number 19 is a Garelick brand made in st paul minn. see pictures, mine is washed/rinsed with a hose after each use and the boat cover goes over it all year,

looks like mine is rusting like yours. Maybe garelick makes them in china or skimps on the last coat of chrome plating. your boarding ladder is not in the water on your boat maybe the boarding ladder is just rusting,

note I had the black shock cord thingy like yours but it broke and I changed it
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:26 AM
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Man that sucks. Mine is an 08 and it looks less than 1 year old. That ladder is low quality, about every 3 months I clean the rust off and use Flitz on it. Seems to work very well. Mine is also on an outside rack so I'm not in the water.

I know the hardware isn't the highest quality but it's decent, electrolysis has got to be in play here somehow. Did you purchase from a dealer, and did they know you would be keeping it in the water?
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:37 AM
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His trickle charger is just fine. Stop telling the OP it's a problem.
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by debugger View Post
His trickle charger is just fine. Stop telling the OP it's a problem.
agreed - IMO, the engine holding current (and the boat) and the engine sitting 3 inches in the water all the time making water contact is a huge part of the problem....this boat is still energized even when the batt switches are off, in some way....
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Old 11-13-2012, 07:54 AM
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sounds to me like cheap hardware, but, could be electrolysis, As always hard to figure out from a letter 1000 miles away.....check out
http://yachtpals.com/how-to/electrolysis
Do you put any 110 A/C power cord (with power) onto your boat? Battery charger? most of the time I see electrolysis pit and leave rotted metal not rust, but I'm no expert. just know where to go to find out what I need to know. Good luck...
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by debugger View Post
His trickle charger is just fine. Stop telling the OP it's a problem.
And you know this to be true

No one said it was his problem. It was asked if it was marine rated. There is a diff.between marine and auto. Don't get your panties in a twist
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Thalasso View Post
And you know this to be true

No one said it was his problem. It was asked if it was marine rated. There is a diff.between marine and auto. Don't get your panties in a twist
Originally Posted by Thalasso View Post
There is one of your problems if it isn't marine rated
Originally Posted by commuter boats View Post
Is the trickle charger a Marine rated device or something you got some automotive parts store? The problem could be that simple.




Sounds like somebody did? No?

So tell me, what's the difference between a marine and non marine charger?
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:00 AM
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a Marine trickle charger is just one that is epoxy potted against corrosion and waterproof - has nothing to do with a diff in charging or hooking up....

Last edited by Glen E; 11-13-2012 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
a Marine trickle charger is just tone that is epoxy potted against corrosion and waterproof - has nothing to do with a diff in charging or hooking up....
Exactly!
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:08 AM
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Default You are on the right track but not done.

Originally Posted by Terminator Tackle View Post
Great link.. Looks like Im not going to use my shore power and adding a big ass zinc to the boat.
You could have other boats in the marina doing the same thing to your boat as your battery charger was doing to you. It takes an experienced guy, not just a marine electrician to maybe start pulling other peoples shore power connections out and checking the water around the boat for stray current. Also the shore power of the dock can be suspect. Most marinas do not want a guy looking into this problem either. Why it may cost them in the long run. Or make the others around you get mad because someone pulled their shore power connection apart even for a short period of time.


Most all stainless is suspect today. A small refrigerator type magnet should be a part of every boaters maintenance tools.


As far as quality of stainless is concerned. Its not junk because it has carbon steel in it. If it had only stainless and No carbon it would be so soft that you could not screw it in with out stripping the heads. It is a fine line between stainless that rust and stainless that does not. The cheapness is in the quality control when making it. The chinese manufacturers do not care about quality control. Or should I say the people on the line actually making the stuff just want a paycheck. And it is usually based on quantity, not quality.
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Old 11-13-2012, 10:07 AM
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It does appear worse where the WELDING is done....
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by commuter boats View Post
Is there any zinc left on your swivel bracket?
And about that trickle charger
Trickle charger in a marine grade unit that they sell at west marine
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:34 AM
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That's absurd...what's your zinc situation on the boat? Also, as a few have mentioned, BIG difference in quality between 304 stainless and 316
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Glen E View Post
a Marine trickle charger is just one that is epoxy potted against corrosion and waterproof - has nothing to do with a diff in charging or hooking up....
Auto chargers use an autotransformer in which the primary and secondary windings are electrically connected.
Marine battery chargers use an isolation transformer. An isolation transformer has separate windings and does not allow current to pass into the vessel from the utility connection

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Old 11-13-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by debugger View Post
Sounds like somebody did? No?

So tell me, what's the difference between a marine and non marine charger?
Answered in post #77. and no i didn't because i know better.It might not effect my boat but if used long enough it could effect the next boat. Might be yours, you never know untill it to late.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:25 PM
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Marine chargers will have a built in galvanic isolator for one.

The galvanic isolator is what you need, along with zincs and a bonding system, to control corrosion.
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:36 PM
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Default Stain Less

Originally Posted by Schmaltz~Herring View Post
Even quality SS will rust if not maintained.


That is why it is called Stain Less not stain proof. I have seenbad batches of hardware such as screws. No way for the factory to know.

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