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35 Contender Side Console Owners

Old 11-06-2012, 02:21 PM
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Default 35 Contender Side Console Owners

I'm starting this thread mainly so we can share maintenance, upgrades, tips, and stories related to the ownership of the 35 Contender Side Console.

I recently picked up a 1999 with twin 250 OX66 SWS II (1025 hrs) 7.3KW genny, a/c, Furuno Navnet 1, 64kw radar, Simrad autopilot, and manny other nice upgrades. So far, in the few months I've owned her, she has treated is really well. Stepping up from a 1989 22 Searay Sundancer (first boat), the Contender has been a dream.

Currently, I'm going going over the engine with all routine maintenance.

Plan

1.Replace under seat storage wheather stripping (what and where to buy?)
2. Replace the transome door wheather stripping
3. Install a windlass. (Post pics of your setup please)
4.Pressure Clean Bilge
5. Change all lights to LED
6. Modify kill well to NOT drain into bilge. (Anyone do this yet?)


Thanks and hope we all find this thread useful.

Last edited by lmannyr; 11-06-2012 at 03:59 PM.
Old 11-06-2012, 02:55 PM
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The under seat storage on my 99 had that stick on stripping and I cleaned that off and use the bulb seal. It is now waterproof and a much cleaner look. Here is what I used:
http://www.pitpal.com/products/1_8_T...ot-723-39.html

My transom door had a thick rubber strip and I just cleaned it up and glued it back on. It was about 1/8 thick and harder rubber. I would like to change it out, but have not found anything similar.

I also added a mid ship bilge pump because there is no way to access the rear one if you have an issue at sea and I had no room to add another one back there. I ended up adding one about 4ft in front of that one just under the middle fuel tank. I added a horn to it. This way if it goes off I have a big issue or the rear one failed and it will alerts me right away.

The fish box drain I am doing the same thing. I have already bought the parts and just need to install. I am using a diaphram pump and attaching it to a fitting on the bottom of the box. I will have a quick connect water pump fitting so I can remove the hose when I want to pull the box. I will also just keep the existing holes in the box plugged when using the pump and open when on the lift so it won't fill the box up with water and drain into the bilge.

For the windlass I will try to get you a pic, but can tell you that mine was installed incorrectly and the rode gets hung up on the front lip inside the box. If you install one make sure your fall is back as far as you can get it. The issue is the forward bulkhead is right up to the opening and this give you limited room for the motor on the windlass. I though about changing to a horizonal mount, but since it is mounted on the lid I thought the higher pulling angle might tear the lid off.
Old 11-06-2012, 03:32 PM
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Your fishbox should have 2 drain holes....one is plumbed into a macerator that pumps overboard. I always leave the other one plugged and simply pump any rainwater overboard. (I don't use this box for storage...only fish)

A couple of other recommendations: make sure all drain holes are properly plumbed to bilge to make sure they are not leaking onto the top of your center (reserve) tank behind fishbox.

I threw away my windlass, covered the hole with aluminum plate and bought an anchor ball...now I can pull in the anchor from the stern and don't have to climb over the front windshield.

I also removed fridge (never used it...always used cooler) and installed an a/c unit in that area with the return air grill positioned where the fridge door was...this gets it out of the fwd deck hatch and out of the mildew and elements and into the cabin where it should provide years of relatively low maintenance.

Also, Kiwigrip for the decks....you probably have a nonskid paint (like awlgrip) unless it's in great shape- you'll want to take care of that pretty soon to. (I'm actually considering Nuteak or similar product next year for gunwhale and deck.

You're gonna LOVE this boat...there's nothing better IMO. I take mine to the Bahamas regularly as well as trailer it to the Keys several times/year. It's the best of all worlds.
Old 11-07-2012, 11:46 AM
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Great info so far.

Knott Enuff:

The fish box macerator is a great one. Are you planning on adding another discharge port for it? I also like the seat storage seal. Wonder if I can find that seal in white.

In Desent seas

Rip fridge out?? My wife would kill me! I use the boat exactly how it was designed. We sleep, fish, cruise, and tube. It's overkill for tubbing but. Can't justify another boat just to tube. We tube in between destinations and not go out just to tube.

I carry 60 gallons of water. 2 20 gallon tanks in the main center storage and 1 20 gallon tank under the forward storage compartment. The 2 in the main compartment empty together ( one on each side ). When its empty, I flip a valve and I know we only have 20 gallons left for the trip. All tanks fill from the same port.

Lots of great info and tips! Thanks and keep it comming. Post pictures.
Old 11-09-2012, 10:45 AM
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Rigging tube keeps pulling out of the engine. I just push it back in and once the engine is tilted, out it goes.... Any suggestions?

This is starboard, tilted


This is the port with the tube off.
Old 11-13-2012, 04:49 PM
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I've been having issues with my trailer setup. If you trailer, please post pictures. More specifically, I'd like to see a profile picture. Does the transom need to be completely supported by the bunks? Or can the transom out a foot?
Old 11-13-2012, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lmannyr View Post
Rigging tube keeps pulling out of the engine. I just push it back in and once the engine is tilted, out it goes.... Any suggestions?

This is starboard, tilted


This is the port with the tube off.
Remove the engine cover with motor down.
Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the recepticle and lift up.
This should allow you to rotate or thread this recepticle onto the hose.
Reinstall

Good Luck,
Steve
Old 11-20-2012, 12:05 PM
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When I launch, the swim platform gets submerged for few mins until I un winch her off the trailer. Then the back floats again. This is with 1/4 fuel in all 3 tanks. I'm thinking its just my trailer setup and ramp angle. Anyone have this issue?

My concern is for water intrusion into the rear of boat where fuel tanks are.

I'm thinking of replacing the 2 black rear deck plates to white.
Old 11-20-2012, 01:24 PM
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Anyone have a water heater? Im thinking of installing an instant hot water heater........Took a shower on the hook last week and it was cold as heck with outside temps in the 60s. It was a quick hyperventilating shower....Holy crap!!!
Old 11-20-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lmannyr View Post
Anyone have a water heater? Im thinking of installing an instant hot water heater........Took a shower on the hook last week and it was cold as heck with outside temps in the 60s. It was a quick hyperventilating shower....Holy crap!!!
I looked in this, but as few showers as I would take on the boat I just use a bag shower and heat the water in the microwave and fill the bag. Running all the extra hot water lines and setting up the heater seems like too much to spend for the little use.

Walmart sells them for about $10 and it holds 5 gal. I just heat up about a 1/2 gal real hot and mix with about 3 gal of water to take a warm shower


Old 11-20-2012, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lmannyr View Post
When I launch, the swim platform gets submerged for few mins until I un winch her off the trailer. Then the back floats again. This is with 1/4 fuel in all 3 tanks. I'm thinking its just my trailer setup and ramp angle. Anyone have this issue?

My concern is for water intrusion into the rear of boat where fuel tanks are.

I'm thinking of replacing the 2 black rear deck plates to white.

I would not worry too much about this. If you do any drift fishing or back down it seems to always go under when a following wave hits the back. Just make sure the rear pie plates are tight.
Old 11-20-2012, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by lmannyr View Post
Anyone have a water heater? Im thinking of installing an instant hot water heater........Took a shower on the hook last week and it was cold as heck with outside temps in the 60s. It was a quick hyperventilating shower....Holy crap!!!
Go with a small unit like this:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...679&id=2092171
It's only good when you are on dockside power or running the genny...and count on a quick shower. If you want the luxury of a 15 minute shower...stay at home or buy a bigger boat.
Old 11-25-2012, 06:52 AM
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Turn you motors hard over to port after you get it on the trailer and prior to trimming motors up...this will put your rigging tube over to stbd and should prevent it from pulling out.
Old 11-25-2012, 11:04 AM
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Yeah my drains need fixing. The fitting that sits in the channels, is loose. Are you guys just 4200 on there or changing out the fitting so there is something on both side if the glass holding it. Right now, the fish box drains are loose. Suggestions?
Old 11-29-2012, 12:17 PM
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Thank you to those who suggested to check for proper deck drainage.

Looked further into proper deck draining. The deck is leaking everywhere I could inspect through the fish box. The deck is leaking at the live well/ deck seam (leaking right onto the center tank)! Good thing I never use raw water. Actually, I don't know if my raw water even works (lol). The deck is also leaking at the seam immediately forward of the fish box I can't inspect the saddle area but can only assume those deck/bilge seams are also leaking.

What all needs to be done to lift the deck on our 35 contenders side consoles?

Looks like the gunwales need to come off to give the deck room to take off boat. From quickly looking, the gunwales are held on via screws on top. The deck looks to be held by screws on top as well

Also, why in the world would any boat manufacture put a thru hull with valve way back behind the center tank where its unreachable. I don't think GO-GO Gadget (cartoon) can reach it. If that thing was to leak a ton for what ever reason, the boat is toast!! If I pull deck up, relocating the rear thru hull(s) to an accessible area will be on the list of to do.

Any suggestions to lifting this deck?

Thanks!!
Old 12-04-2012, 06:49 AM
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4200/5200 is fine for sealing in those drain diverters. Mine originally "T'd" across the center and then down (2 into 1)- but those old tubes seemed to get clogged, so I just made them single tubes- straight shot down to bilge. The deck should not be leaking between the livewell and cockpit. I had water dripping down on top of the tank back there- but it was coming from an aft mounted rod holder (i've since added a drain tube to bilge). Make sure the channels are cleaned out from the center bulkhead all the way back and out the scupper (port side) and tuna door (stbd side). Lift the console deck (hydraulic rams) and clean all of those channels as well. Your aft cockpit deck is screwed in place but also fiberglassed. It would be some work to remove, but your saddle tanks should be sealed up so no water can get in there. The only other place for water to get through should be the fuel manifold door. (water always seems to get in through there)
Unfortunately, you have to lay across the center tank to make it to the aft bilge pump and live-well pump in order to replace (be carefull when laying across tank not to tear yourself up on the center mounted sending unit). I usually lay down and old comforter or something to get back there, then open up the fuel manifold/filter door for more ambient light (fresh air). While your back there, ensure the drain holes at the bottom of the stringers (all the way aft) aren't plugged up. I try not to go back there more than a couple times/year. I agree that access is not ideal for reaching that livewell pump area.
Old 12-04-2012, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by In Decent Seas View Post
4200/5200 is fine for sealing in those drain diverters. Mine originally "T'd" across the center and then down (2 into 1)- but those old tubes seemed to get clogged, so I just made them single tubes- straight shot down to bilge. The deck should not be leaking between the livewell and cockpit. I had water dripping down on top of the tank back there- but it was coming from an aft mounted rod holder (i've since added a drain tube to bilge). Make sure the channels are cleaned out from the center bulkhead all the way back and out the scupper (port side) and tuna door (stbd side). Lift the console deck (hydraulic rams) and clean all of those channels as well. Your aft cockpit deck is screwed in place but also fiberglassed. It would be some work to remove, but your saddle tanks should be sealed up so no water can get in there. The only other place for water to get through should be the fuel manifold door. (water always seems to get in through there)
Unfortunately, you have to lay across the center tank to make it to the aft bilge pump and live-well pump in order to replace (be carefull when laying across tank not to tear yourself up on the center mounted sending unit). I usually lay down and old comforter or something to get back there, then open up the fuel manifold/filter door for more ambient light (fresh air). While your back there, ensure the drain holes at the bottom of the stringers (all the way aft) aren't plugged up. I try not to go back there more than a couple times/year. I agree that access is not ideal for reaching that livewell pump area.

This is also how I worked on my bilge pump and livewell pump. To remove the deck you will have to cut the tabbing holding the deck to middle stringers. It will be a big job. If you are getting a leak from the deck I would lay on my back on top of the tank and look up to see if you can find the issue you maybe able to just seal that spot. Also the center tank is well ventilated since it is not foamed in and some water getting on it should not hurt it. If you are concerned just rise with fresh water after each trip.
Old 12-04-2012, 01:14 PM
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I checked my bunks on trailer- they come within about 3 inches of the aft bulkhead (swim platform extends out from there).

I hope this attachment worked?
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Knot_Enuff View Post
This is also how I worked on my bilge pump and livewell pump. To remove the deck you will have to cut the tabbing holding the deck to middle stringers. It will be a big job. If you are getting a leak from the deck I would lay on my back on top of the tank and look up to see if you can find the issue you maybe able to just seal that spot. Also the center tank is well ventilated since it is not foamed in and some water getting on it should not hurt it. If you are concerned just rise with fresh water after each trip.
I can only seal the center bilge area. I'm assuming the rest of the seal on the outer edges of sole is also compromised. Can't seal the outer edges without lifting deck. I see the tabbing you mention but its not bonded to the sole. I can separate the tabbing with my fingers. It looks like the sole will lift with out cutting glass. But I do need to remove the gunnel to clear the sides. I'll tackle this soon and post pictures.
Old 12-09-2012, 11:25 AM
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Knot-Enuf

You ever install the fish box macerator?

In decent seas:

Thanks for the bunk pictures. How long have you trailered like this and have you seen any "hooking" at the transom? And thanks for the drain tips.

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