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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

Old 03-20-2012, 01:37 PM
  #141  
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the marine paint that I will be using, on there web site they claim you can brush it on with a broom and it will still SELF LEVEL. $200 a gallon you would think it comes with the painter also.[/QUOTE]


HAHA It should .... That boat is worthy though ... I saw it and fell in love, Congrats
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:18 PM
  #142  
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Great work mate, the paint work turned out lovely!

Post a pic of your transom. I've not seen it yet.

We have discarded our chair/launcher post positioned live bait tank and have molded one into the transom. Pic attached.

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Old 03-20-2012, 06:28 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by The Woo View Post
Great work mate, the paint work turned out lovely!

Post a pic of your transom. I've not seen it yet.

We have discarded our chair/launcher post positioned live bait tank and have molded one into the transom. Pic attached.

The way you have your livewell built into your transom that's how I want to do mine. I'll take pics tomorrow of the transom and post them.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:58 PM
  #144  
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Default My 1st fiberglass job

On the port side one of the post that holds the flybridge up had several stress cracks. Once I started using the dremel to open the stress cracks so I can fill them with epoxy and cab-o-sil I noticed that the cracks was pretty deep and needed more strength then epoxy and cab-o-sil. So I decided to try my 1st fiberglass job. It turned out pretty good. I'll finish the other side tomorrow. Sorry for the quality of the pictures my camera crashed on me.

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Old 03-21-2012, 12:53 AM
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I'm happy with that
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Can anyone tell me about this EPirb? I have a brand new EPirb but I'm going to put this in my ditch bag as a backup. My new EPirb have a GPS unit attached to it that will let the coast guard know exactly where you at. I believe this old EPirb will send a signal to the coast guard telling them I'm somewhere within this 1 mile circle.
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I don't know if this was already answered, but this MINI B from ACR is a 121.5 mHz unit, and it is not being monitored for SAR purposes... you need a 406 mHz unit to be up to date.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
On the port side one of the post that holds the flybridge up had several stress cracks. Once I started using the dremel to open the stress cracks so I can fill them with epoxy and cab-o-sil I noticed that the cracks was pretty deep and needed more strength then epoxy and cab-o-sil. So I decided to try my 1st fiberglass job. It turned out pretty good. I'll finish the other side tomorrow. Sorry for the quality of the pictures my camera crashed on me.

I think if you put any more fiberglass on that boat, you can't call it a wooden classic anymore.....
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
I think if you put any more fiberglass on that boat, you can't call it a wooden classic anymore.....
That was my 1st fiberglass job. I went overboard with the fiberglass/epoxy which means the sanding, cutting, and cleaning took forever. When I finished laying the fiberglass and looked at that big chuck of fiberglass just sitting there I did say to myself "Boy this isn't going to turn out good by the looks of what I just did". Then I just called it a day. This is one time I wished I stayed next door to maxie.

Last edited by 28memco; 03-21-2012 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PtJudeRI View Post
I don't know if this was already answered, but this MINI B from ACR is a 121.5 mHz unit, and it is not being monitored for SAR purposes... you need a 406 mHz unit to be up to date.
Thanks for the info. It would of sucked if I went to use it and no one showed up. It'll just go on the wall in the boat house as decoration. Just out of curiosity if I was to pull it would anyone see the signal?
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Old 03-21-2012, 02:27 PM
  #150  
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Default Ceiling Painted

Next the walls and bilge will be painted, and the teak floors installed and I'm done. Next section will be the flybridge.

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Old 03-21-2012, 03:01 PM
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I'm sure that patch will do you good, but perhaps next time you can try a Dutchman, depending on your skill level and tools available.


Filling with wood
Larger cavities should be filled with wood wherever possible. This method restores the original strength of the wood. The procedure involves carving a dutchman to the shape of the void and bonding it in place with epoxy as follows:
1. Prepare the dutchman. Use the same kind of wood if possible. Carve the cavity to a geometric shape if necessary to make shaping the plug easier. Bevel the sides of the cavity. The longer the bevel on the sides running across the grain, the stronger the repair (Figure 3-3). An 8-to-1 bevel (8" long for every 1" deep) or greater will be close to the original strength of the wood. Check the dutchman for fit. Thickened epoxy will fill a fairly large gap, so the fit doesn’t have to be perfect. Prepare the surfaces for bonding (Section 8.4.1).
2. Wet out the bonding surfaces of the cavity and the plug with resin/hardener mixture.
3. Apply thickened epoxy/adhesive filler (406, 404 or 403) (mayonnaise consistency) to the cavity surfaces. Using the mixing stick, apply enough of the thickened mixture to fill any gaps.
4. Insert the plug into position. Thickened epoxy should squeeze out of the joint.
5. Clamp the plug into position. Weights or staples may be used to hold the plug until the epoxy cures. Remove excess epoxy before it begins to cure.
6. Allow to cure thoroughly before removing clamps or sanding.
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:52 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
I'm sure that patch will do you good, but perhaps next time you can try a Dutchman, depending on your skill level and tools available.


Filling with wood
Larger cavities should be filled with wood wherever possible. This method restores the original strength of the wood. The procedure involves carving a dutchman to the shape of the void and bonding it in place with epoxy as follows:
1. Prepare the dutchman. Use the same kind of wood if possible. Carve the cavity to a geometric shape if necessary to make shaping the plug easier. Bevel the sides of the cavity. The longer the bevel on the sides running across the grain, the stronger the repair (Figure 3-3). An 8-to-1 bevel (8" long for every 1" deep) or greater will be close to the original strength of the wood. Check the dutchman for fit. Thickened epoxy will fill a fairly large gap, so the fit doesn’t have to be perfect. Prepare the surfaces for bonding (Section 8.4.1).
2. Wet out the bonding surfaces of the cavity and the plug with resin/hardener mixture.
3. Apply thickened epoxy/adhesive filler (406, 404 or 403) (mayonnaise consistency) to the cavity surfaces. Using the mixing stick, apply enough of the thickened mixture to fill any gaps.
4. Insert the plug into position. Thickened epoxy should squeeze out of the joint.
5. Clamp the plug into position. Weights or staples may be used to hold the plug until the epoxy cures. Remove excess epoxy before it begins to cure.
6. Allow to cure thoroughly before removing clamps or sanding.
Very good advice.....and you don't even need to squeeze too hard...unless you're making a see thru finish..leaving some epoxy in the gap is very strong...the wood will break before the bond line does.
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:16 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by PtJudeRI View Post
I don't know if this was already answered, but this MINI B from ACR is a 121.5 mHz unit, and it is not being monitored for SAR purposes... you need a 406 mHz unit to be up to date.
If it's not being monitored for SAR purposed what is it being monitored for? Or should I just use it for a paper weight?
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:46 PM
  #154  
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Default Ceiling and cabin walls are done

The cabin is coming alone pretty good. I'm ready to be done. Bent over in a small space for hours a day isn't good on my knees/back. Next I will be sanding the bilge and painting it. I wanted the cabin to feel airy/breezy that's why I picked those colors. I want be bringing those colors out of the cabin. I also saw in a magazine old wooden boats in the islands (forgot what island it was) had color to them instead of the traditional boat colors you see everyday. I didn't paint the hatch at the top of the cabin because I'm going to cut the center out of it, reinforce it, and I'm going to install glass in the center of it to get natural light in the cabin.

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Old 03-21-2012, 07:06 PM
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Beautiful, relaxing colours, perfectly in keeping with the boat's style. Love it!
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
I'm sure that patch will do you good, but perhaps next time you can try a Dutchman, depending on your skill level and tools available.


Filling with wood
Larger cavities should be filled with wood wherever possible. This method restores the original strength of the wood. The procedure involves carving a dutchman to the shape of the void and bonding it in place with epoxy as follows:
1. Prepare the dutchman. Use the same kind of wood if possible. Carve the cavity to a geometric shape if necessary to make shaping the plug easier. Bevel the sides of the cavity. The longer the bevel on the sides running across the grain, the stronger the repair (Figure 3-3). An 8-to-1 bevel (8" long for every 1" deep) or greater will be close to the original strength of the wood. Check the dutchman for fit. Thickened epoxy will fill a fairly large gap, so the fit doesn’t have to be perfect. Prepare the surfaces for bonding (Section 8.4.1).
2. Wet out the bonding surfaces of the cavity and the plug with resin/hardener mixture.
3. Apply thickened epoxy/adhesive filler (406, 404 or 403) (mayonnaise consistency) to the cavity surfaces. Using the mixing stick, apply enough of the thickened mixture to fill any gaps.
4. Insert the plug into position. Thickened epoxy should squeeze out of the joint.
5. Clamp the plug into position. Weights or staples may be used to hold the plug until the epoxy cures. Remove excess epoxy before it begins to cure.
6. Allow to cure thoroughly before removing clamps or sanding.
Thanks for the info. I have another spot on the boat where I need to do the same thing. I'll try what you said.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Thanks for the info. I have another spot on the boat where I need to do the same thing. I'll try what you said.
Google around a little, there's some pics on this out there too. Be a lot less glass, just some resin showing around the seam to sand smooth.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by The Woo View Post
Beautiful, relaxing colours, perfectly in keeping with the boat's style. Love it!

Reminds me of colors seen on boats in the islands, great job !
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:37 PM
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Default How to fix this

Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
Reminds me of colors seen on boats in the islands, great job !
Obbayer I have a square hole in the floor of my boat. the size is 8inches by 8inches. How do I fix it? The floor is wood and I DON'T have access to the bottom of the floor. I'll post pics Friday.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
Google around a little, there's some pics on this out there too. Be a lot less glass, just some resin showing around the seam to sand smooth.
The way you said sounds a lot easier and less messy. The million dollar question is what type of wood do you think my boat is made out of since you said try to use the same wood?
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