Harpoon38

The boat will be fine offshore you just have to pick your days. With a bottom that is that flat without a sharper entry at the bow you are going to pound with any significant seas (3'+) and higher speeds. Jsut make sure your hull is strong and slow down when things get rough because you could rattle your teeth out and break up a lot of stuff on that boat in heavy seas if you try to push it too fast. I would love to have that boat for drift fishing up here in VA. I am sure it is real stable on the drift with that bottom.

obbayer

Your chairs appear to me to be the anodized aluminum version, not the $1500 stainless one in the link.
Get something like this: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...SE+Yacht+Chair The two feet in each corner will be gentler on your decks.

Up on the bridge your seat better be attached or you'll end up in the cockpit on your head.

Watch the auto store parts. Alternator and starter and distributor bases do have Marine versions and should not be swapped out. Distributor caps (non vented) you may get away with, but the contacts may not last as long as the true marine versions. Carbs are different also, other then freeze out plugs your probably OK after that.

craig mac

It seems like there were 3 very talented people involved in the original design and construction of this boat. If there was a fatal flaw in handling, I would assume they would have corrected it many years ago.

The boat is extremely flat at the transom, usually indicating it would be a handful in a following sea. It might benefit with the addition of a small keel, but i would hate to mess with it.

285exp

I think you ought to slap some 900 hp marinized Cat truck engines in that baby.

28memco

1st day of the project started in the cabin. There are no structural issues with this boat just cosmetic. Inside the cabin the paint is piling and there is a little mildew so there's a lot of sanding to do. I have the boat broken down into about 6 sections in the order I plain on starting on and finishing with. I also shop vac ALL and I say ALL the water out of the bilges. I HATE when a bilge have water in it. I was going to start at the top and work down (flybridge) but my epoxy resin want be in until tomorrow so that's why I made the decision to start inside the cabin. The only thing that will be done inside the cabin is painting (have not decided the colors), changing the dome light to LED, installing a flat screen tv, and I'm going to do teak floors. I think the teak floors will make the cabin pop (POP <--- I've been watching to much HGTV). After the cabin is done I will be starting on the flybridge. Once I get to the flybridge I will let you no then what my plains are for the flybridge. Stay toon

28memco

Can anyone tell me about this EPirb? I have a brand new EPirb but I'm going to put this in my ditch bag as a backup. My new EPirb have a GPS unit attached to it that will let the coast guard know exactly where you at. I believe this old EPirb will send a signal to the coast guard telling them I'm somewhere within this 1 mile circle.

maxie

Wish I had a sandpaper supply business in your area...

with all that surface area you'll have spaghetti arms at the end of each day.....sectioning off into pieces is a good way not to get too overwhelmed about the project......you mentioned epoxy for the top, but what will you be using it for? What will you use for paint on the freshly sanded cabin and bilge areas? Epoxy primer and 2 part paint? Standard bilge paint? VC Performance Epoxy paint? Just curious...

28memco

I start working on the boat about 10am and don't finish till 6pm. I come in the house, take a shower, and fall on the couch (That's where I'm at now). Words can't describe how tired I am. Being bent over in the cabin for 8 hours a day sucks. I spend every min. of those 8 hours SANDING.Thanks for the tip. I'll start sectioning it off because it is overwhelming. The epoxy for the top is for the 1,237 stress cracks that's through out the flybridge and through out the boat (yes I'm exaggerating but there is a lot of them). I was going to start the restoration on the flybridge. I have to address the stress crack before I can do anything else. Since the epoxy wasn't in I started on the cabin. I thought the flybridge was fiberglassed but it's not. The only thing that's fiberglassed is the outside of the boat from the rub rail down. I thought about fiberglassing the flybridge but the boat is in very good condition for 50 years old with only paint protecting the wood so I'll keep it that way. For the bilge paint I will be using BilgeKote by interlux. The cabin doesn't need marine paint because it want be exposed to nothing so I'll use a very good exterior paint. Only the cabin will have exterior paint but the pilot house flybridge and everywhere else I will be using Supermarine 2 Part Epoxy.

Tribute 1

Memco, I am sure this boat has been offshore more times than most people can count and is still around. Remember it has little motors by todays standards, just take it easy. The boat in the black and white photo a few pages back in this thread is not your boat. Your boat is planked differently. probably double diagonal. The boat in the black and white picture was batten seam construction. I am still jealous! Rich

pgkeating

You'll have to look up the "in service" date or serial number (or have a certified eprib shop) and see if it's still serviceable(?)

Apparently these have a finite serviceable life. Was it originally yours (or did you find it during the rehab??

Also, it would have to be registered with NOAA (I believe).

Hope this helps...

PK

maxie

Rich,
if you look at the seams in the v-berth picture, the planks run longitudinally to the frames...do you still thinks it's double diagonal? Or was a first/inside finish layer layed in under the double diagonals to get that look? The bilge planks look diagonal.

Tribute 1

Maxie, look at the bilge pictures, definitely diagonal planking. In the black and white photo with the two guys handling a plank, that was batten seam longitudinal planking. Rich

maxie

Yeah, I saw that...but then why would the planks run long above the waterline? Look at the area being sanded.....what's the reason for changing direction?

Marian

Beautiful boat !!!

28memco

Whats batten seam construction? Which one is stronger batten construction or double diagonal construction?

The Woo

iI've been doing it that way for yearsd mate
My timber handled boat broom has the graduations etched into it, so it's a multi-tool!
An old school, completely foolproof methos of checking your fuel.
(Obviously only any good if you can actual access you tank to dip, not for long/bendy filler hosed tanks)

28memco

All 3 of my fuel tanks have top ports just for dipping the fuel stick. I have marks on one end of the fuel stick that's for measuring the fuel in two of the tanks and I have marks on the other end of the fuel stick that's for measuring the fuel in one of the fuel tank (Two of my fuel tanks are the same size and one of them is a different size). I still don't understand the marks on the fuel stick but with trial and error I'm sure I'll get it.

28memco

I have lost count in the amount of hours I have in sanding the cabin. I have lost count on the amount of money I have spent on sanding paper. I have lost count how many times I had to change sandpaper. I also have lost count on the amount of blisters I have on my hands. I'm tired, my knees and back hurt but the sanding is done. Now the cabin will get primed.

23Dorado

Subscribed.

maxie

good work.....time for a stiff martini