1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration
#101
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 28

The boat will be fine offshore you just have to pick your days. With a bottom that is that flat without a sharper entry at the bow you are going to pound with any significant seas (3'+) and higher speeds. Jsut make sure your hull is strong and slow down when things get rough because you could rattle your teeth out and break up a lot of stuff on that boat in heavy seas if you try to push it too fast. I would love to have that boat for drift fishing up here in VA. I am sure it is real stable on the drift with that bottom.
#102
Senior Member

Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bayville, NJ
Posts: 1,389

Your chairs appear to me to be the anodized aluminum version, not the $1500 stainless one in the link.
Get something like this: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...SE+Yacht+Chair The two feet in each corner will be gentler on your decks.
Up on the bridge your seat better be attached or you'll end up in the cockpit on your head.
Watch the auto store parts. Alternator and starter and distributor bases do have Marine versions and should not be swapped out. Distributor caps (non vented) you may get away with, but the contacts may not last as long as the true marine versions. Carbs are different also, other then freeze out plugs your probably OK after that.
Get something like this: http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...SE+Yacht+Chair The two feet in each corner will be gentler on your decks.
Up on the bridge your seat better be attached or you'll end up in the cockpit on your head.
Watch the auto store parts. Alternator and starter and distributor bases do have Marine versions and should not be swapped out. Distributor caps (non vented) you may get away with, but the contacts may not last as long as the true marine versions. Carbs are different also, other then freeze out plugs your probably OK after that.
#103
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: freeport, ny
Posts: 248

It seems like there were 3 very talented people involved in the original design and construction of this boat. If there was a fatal flaw in handling, I would assume they would have corrected it many years ago.
The boat is extremely flat at the transom, usually indicating it would be a handful in a following sea. It might benefit with the addition of a small keel, but i would hate to mess with it.
The boat is extremely flat at the transom, usually indicating it would be a handful in a following sea. It might benefit with the addition of a small keel, but i would hate to mess with it.
#105
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Some where over the rainbow
Posts: 1,897

1st day of the project started in the cabin. There are no structural issues with this boat just cosmetic. Inside the cabin the paint is piling and there is a little mildew so there's a lot of sanding to do. I have the boat broken down into about 6 sections in the order I plain on starting on and finishing with. I also shop vac ALL and I say ALL the water out of the bilges. I HATE when a bilge have water in it. I was going to start at the top and work down (flybridge) but my epoxy resin want be in until tomorrow so that's why I made the decision to start inside the cabin. The only thing that will be done inside the cabin is painting (have not decided the colors), changing the dome light to LED, installing a flat screen tv, and I'm going to do teak floors. I think the teak floors will make the cabin pop (POP <--- I've been watching to much HGTV). After the cabin is done I will be starting on the flybridge. Once I get to the flybridge I will let you no then what my plains are for the flybridge. Stay toon
#106
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Some where over the rainbow
Posts: 1,897

Can anyone tell me about this EPirb? I have a brand new EPirb but I'm going to put this in my ditch bag as a backup. My new EPirb have a GPS unit attached to it that will let the coast guard know exactly where you at. I believe this old EPirb will send a signal to the coast guard telling them I'm somewhere within this 1 mile circle.


#107
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,310

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1st day of the project started in the cabin. There are no structural issues with this boat just cosmetic. Inside the cabin the paint is piling and there is a little mildew so there's a lot of sanding to do. I have the boat broken down into about 6 sections in the order I plain on starting on and finishing with. I also shop vac ALL and I say ALL the water out of the bilges. I HATE when a bilge have water in it. I was going to start at the top and work down (flybridge) but my epoxy resin want be in until tomorrow so that's why I made the decision to start inside the cabin. The only thing that will be done inside the cabin is painting (have not decided the colors), changing the dome light to LED, installing a flat screen tv, and I'm going to do teak floors. I think the teak floors will make the cabin pop (POP <--- I've been watching to much HGTV). After the cabin is done I will be starting on the flybridge. Once I get to the flybridge I will let you no then what my plains are for the flybridge. Stay toon
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1st day of the project started in the cabin. There are no structural issues with this boat just cosmetic. Inside the cabin the paint is piling and there is a little mildew so there's a lot of sanding to do. I have the boat broken down into about 6 sections in the order I plain on starting on and finishing with. I also shop vac ALL and I say ALL the water out of the bilges. I HATE when a bilge have water in it. I was going to start at the top and work down (flybridge) but my epoxy resin want be in until tomorrow so that's why I made the decision to start inside the cabin. The only thing that will be done inside the cabin is painting (have not decided the colors), changing the dome light to LED, installing a flat screen tv, and I'm going to do teak floors. I think the teak floors will make the cabin pop (POP <--- I've been watching to much HGTV). After the cabin is done I will be starting on the flybridge. Once I get to the flybridge I will let you no then what my plains are for the flybridge. Stay toon

with all that surface area you'll have spaghetti arms at the end of each day.....sectioning off into pieces is a good way not to get too overwhelmed about the project......you mentioned epoxy for the top, but what will you be using it for? What will you use for paint on the freshly sanded cabin and bilge areas? Epoxy primer and 2 part paint? Standard bilge paint? VC Performance Epoxy paint? Just curious...
#108
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Some where over the rainbow
Posts: 1,897

Wish I had a sandpaper supply business in your area...
with all that surface area you'll have spaghetti arms at the end of each day.....sectioning off into pieces is a good way not to get too overwhelmed about the project......you mentioned epoxy for the top, but what will you be using it for? What will you use for paint on the freshly sanded cabin and bilge areas? Epoxy primer and 2 part paint? Standard bilge paint? VC Performance Epoxy paint? Just curious...

with all that surface area you'll have spaghetti arms at the end of each day.....sectioning off into pieces is a good way not to get too overwhelmed about the project......you mentioned epoxy for the top, but what will you be using it for? What will you use for paint on the freshly sanded cabin and bilge areas? Epoxy primer and 2 part paint? Standard bilge paint? VC Performance Epoxy paint? Just curious...
#109
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 249

Memco, I am sure this boat has been offshore more times than most people can count and is still around. Remember it has little motors by todays standards, just take it easy. The boat in the black and white photo a few pages back in this thread is not your boat. Your boat is planked differently. probably double diagonal. The boat in the black and white picture was batten seam construction. I am still jealous! Rich
#110
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 3,810

You'll have to look up the "in service" date or serial number (or have a certified eprib shop) and see if it's still serviceable(?)
Apparently these have a finite serviceable life. Was it originally yours (or did you find it during the rehab??
Also, it would have to be registered with NOAA (I believe).
Hope this helps...
PK
Apparently these have a finite serviceable life. Was it originally yours (or did you find it during the rehab??
Also, it would have to be registered with NOAA (I believe).
Hope this helps...
PK
#111
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,310

Memco, I am sure this boat has been offshore more times than most people can count and is still around. Remember it has little motors by todays standards, just take it easy. The boat in the black and white photo a few pages back in this thread is not your boat. Your boat is planked differently. probably double diagonal. The boat in the black and white picture was batten seam construction. I am still jealous! Rich
if you look at the seams in the v-berth picture, the planks run longitudinally to the frames...do you still thinks it's double diagonal? Or was a first/inside finish layer layed in under the double diagonals to get that look? The bilge planks look diagonal.
#113
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,310

Yeah, I saw that...but then why would the planks run long above the waterline? Look at the area being sanded.....what's the reason for changing direction?
#115
Admirals Club 

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Some where over the rainbow
Posts: 1,897

Memco, I am sure this boat has been offshore more times than most people can count and is still around. Remember it has little motors by todays standards, just take it easy. The boat in the black and white photo a few pages back in this thread is not your boat. Your boat is planked differently. probably double diagonal. The boat in the black and white picture was batten seam diagonal construction. I am still jealous! Rich
#116
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,356

This is a 1st for me. I never had a boat where you have to dip a stick in the tank to see how much fuel you have. I was told that's the most accurate way for a boat owner to truly no how much fuel he has. I think it's cool to do it this way but I think it'll get old fast or maybe that's the lazy American in me that wants to look down at a fuel gauge. Attachment 226340
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My timber handled boat broom has the graduations etched into it, so it's a multi-tool!

An old school, completely foolproof methos of checking your fuel.
(Obviously only any good if you can actual access you tank to dip, not for long/bendy filler hosed tanks)
#117
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Some where over the rainbow
Posts: 1,897

iI've been doing it that way for yearsd mate 
My timber handled boat broom has the graduations etched into it, so it's a multi-tool!
An old school, completely foolproof methos of checking your fuel.
(Obviously only any good if you can actual access you tank to dip, not for long/bendy filler hosed tanks)

My timber handled boat broom has the graduations etched into it, so it's a multi-tool!

An old school, completely foolproof methos of checking your fuel.
(Obviously only any good if you can actual access you tank to dip, not for long/bendy filler hosed tanks)
#118
Admirals Club 

Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Some where over the rainbow
Posts: 1,897

I have lost count in the amount of hours I have in sanding the cabin. I have lost count on the amount of money I have spent on sanding paper. I have lost count how many times I had to change sandpaper. I also have lost count on the amount of blisters I have on my hands. I'm tired, my knees and back hurt but the sanding is done. Now the cabin will get primed.










