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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

Old 04-23-2017, 10:31 PM
  #1021  
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You won't have any issues turning them over, just don't run them for too long. Those manifolds will be pushing exhaust and water all over the place. Glad to see you back at it. Sorry to hear about your paint issue. I too would look into some kind of stripper to use, or soda blasting.
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Old 04-24-2017, 05:21 AM
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Those are salt water cracks. That is what happens to raw water (salt water) cooled manifolds and elbows. As Resko said, certainly no problem doing a compression check like that, or even running them for a short period of time. They will be leaking though.
The only way to prevent that in the future would be to re-plumb the cooling system so the manifolds are fresh water cooled (antifreeze going through them , like the rest of the engines). You would first have to do some research to figure out if the heat exchangers have enough capacity to handle the additional cooling capacity needed for the manifolds. The exhaust elbows,..... no way around them, they have to be raw water cooled and are usually considered 'disposables'.

As for having a. compression test done at this time, unless the guy is doing it for free I wouldn't spend the money as it probably won't tell you much of anything at all. Given the length of time your engines have been sitting the rings are probably pretty dry, the valves that are open could have some dirt /surface rust on the seats,...,... I wouldn't put much value on any readings from a compression test until after the engines have been up and running and exercised for a while. --What a compression test will tell you is that the valves are working and not stuck.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:18 PM
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I say take the valve covers off, give the heads a good misting of marvel mystery oil, remove the plugs one at a time and squirt some into the cylinders, remove the coil wire turn it over a few times, reconnect coil and fire them up. Make sure to run off a portable tank with fresh gas though. So long as the hatches are off and the water has a place to go, see if you can get them to fire up and run for a minute or two.
I love the smell of marvels, best thing about fogging the engine for the winter, lol
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:12 PM
  #1024  
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Originally Posted by Resko 1 View Post
I say take the valve covers off, give the heads a good misting of marvel mystery oil, remove the plugs one at a time and squirt some into the cylinders, remove the coil wire turn it over a few times, reconnect coil and fire them up. Make sure to run off a portable tank with fresh gas though. So long as the hatches are off and the water has a place to go, see if you can get them to fire up and run for a minute or two.
I love the smell of marvels, best thing about fogging the engine for the winter, lol
That's exactly what I'll do. Resko1, thanks for the tip and I'll pick up the marvel mystery oil and give it a try. I might start working on the engines now just to give me a break from this primer issue I'm having.
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:17 PM
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Do anyone no of a good website/place I can buy parts for my engines (water pump, starter, electronic ignition, carburetor, gaskets etc etc)? Most of the parts for these engines I can get from a auto parts store since the motors was used in trucks also but I'm trying to stay away from non marine parts. Therefore, I don't want to go up to my local auto parts store for parts.
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:15 PM
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I'm sure your engines are counter rotating, so be careful of the water pump on the counter rotating engine. I wouldn't worry to much about the gaskets, especially since you have closed loop cooling. The starter, ignition system (all of it!), and carb do need to be approved marine units. I would keep a close watch on ebay.
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by honestcharlie56 View Post
I'm sure your engines are counter rotating, so be careful of the water pump on the counter rotating engine. I wouldn't worry to much about the gaskets, especially since you have closed loop cooling. The starter, ignition system (all of it!), and carb do need to be approved marine units. I would keep a close watch on ebay.
Yes, the engines are counter rotating. What parts do I need to watch out for being that the engines are counter rotating?
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Old 04-25-2017, 04:41 AM
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Uhm,...Differences between right hand and left hand engines
Starter
Cam shaft
Water pumps, .... maybe, depending on the style (jabsco type,.. no difference, just change the side the cam is on in the housing )
Alternator (I can't remember if there is a diff. - maybe there is enough left of the tags to read the PN's)..they are rebuildable anyway, so you don't need 'new'.

That's about it for differences.

The only gaskets you should need are for the valve covers and the manifolds, both would be standard "NAPA" parts, no difference for automotive.
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Old 04-25-2017, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Yes, the engines are counter rotating. What parts do I need to watch out for being that the engines are counter rotating?
People tend to use automotive parts in boats due to the marine part cost. With the water pumps its not a big deal if the engine has closed loop cooling and is the standard rotation engine. However, the reverse rotation engine (usually the starboard engine) will usually need a reverse rotation water pump. I am referring to the engines circulating pump btw, not the raw water pump (Jabsco, ITT, sherwood etc. etc.) Again, please always use carbs, fuel pumps, alternators, distributors, what have you that are approved for marine use.
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Old 04-25-2017, 01:05 PM
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I guess the fresh water pump on those engines are basically the automotive type, aren't they.
(The engines I have been working on lately have 'jabsco' type for both.)
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by NedLloyd View Post
I guess the fresh water pump on those engines are basically the automotive type, aren't they.
(The engines I have been working on lately have 'jabsco' type for both.)
I'm not sure if the external parts of the motor are marine parts or not(starter, water pump, alternator). I remember the seller telling me I can get a lot of my parts from a automotive store so that's one reason I wanted to replace the external parts. Plus I'll like to be proactive instead of reactivate with the maintenance. I would like to take the boat to the Bahamas, Dry tortugas one day but if I'm going to do something like that I'll like to have the piece of mind knowing both motors are running good with new MARINE external parts. I'm along ways from that though but it don't hurt to dream and plan/prepare for the dream one day.
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Old 04-26-2017, 05:01 AM
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Just got off the phone with the previous owner of the boat and he did confirmed the motors spin in opposite direction. The starboard motor spins towards the starboard (Away from the centerline of the boat) and the port spins towards the port (Away from the centerline of the boat). The port motor has to have and reverse run starter and the motors are Ford 300 inline 6.
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:14 PM
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Not sure if this info helps but found this. http://www.keatonboat.com/Documentat..._Engine_ID.pdf
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Just got off the phone with the previous owner of the boat and he did confirmed the motors spin in opposite direction. The starboard motor spins towards the starboard (Away from the centerline of the boat) and the port spins towards the port (Away from the centerline of the boat). The port motor has to have and reverse run starter and the motors are Ford 300 inline 6.
One thing to put in the memory banks is some engines of that vintage had directional knurls in the crankshaft at the rear main sealing surface. So if you use a standard crank in a reverse rotation application it would leak constantly at the rear seal. Not sure that applies to your engines but something to check.
Love the boat. The 300 Fords while producing little HP, produce peak tq @WOT near 1800 rpm, diesel like. Not diesel fuel economy but cheap long term power. Very durable engines.
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:13 PM
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Freeze out plugs should you ever need them would be marine (brass) also vs the steel used in the auto engines.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:26 AM
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After talking to the previous owner a couple of days ago he reminded me of a large packet with several different items in it that he gave me when he sold me the boat. Today I went looking for it and I struck gold. In the packet was the owners manual for the motors with the model/serial number. There was some homemade gaskets and a radio log book. The original owner documented when he talked on the boat radio. I guess that was the law back then (Radio talk documentation). Name:  IMG_20170427_095251.jpg
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:34 AM
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It took me awhile but I finally took yall advice and made me a easy, portable work bench. I'm going to attach two 2x4s underneath it that will run the enter length of the work bench which will stiffen it up so it want sag in the middle over time. If I run into any problems with needing more real estate I'll widen the workbench but for now it's working perfect. Name:  IMG_20170427_094107.jpg
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:45 AM
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Any progress with sanding your primer?
A few things I would try, wipe an area about 1 ft square with a clean rag and acetone, then follow it with a clean dry rag. I've had gel coat gum up sand paper like that before and was able to remove the sticky layer on the outside like that. It may use a lot of acetone and rags for your entire boat but much faster than sanding with gummed up sand paper.
Also may want to try spraying a light weight sandable primer in a small area then sand though it and the layer you want to remove. One other thing is a rough grit sand paper even a grinder with 36 grit would quickly remove it if you want to take it back to square one and start over painting.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
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Old 04-27-2017, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by surv View Post
Any progress with sanding your primer?
A few things I would try, wipe an area about 1 ft square with a clean rag and acetone, then follow it with a clean dry rag. I've had gel coat gum up sand paper like that before and was able to remove the sticky layer on the outside like that. It may use a lot of acetone and rags for your entire boat but much faster than sanding with gummed up sand paper.
Also may want to try spraying a light weight sandable primer in a small area then sand though it and the layer you want to remove. One other thing is a rough grit sand paper even a grinder with 36 grit would quickly remove it if you want to take it back to square one and start over painting.
Good luck, I hope this helps.
The progress that I'm having with that primer is 1.Brand new sanding disc on the sander 2. Start sanding and within 3 minutes that brand new sanding disc is gummed up 3. Repeat set 1. Ill give what you recommend a try. At this point I'm will to try anything. Jamestown Distributors replaced the bad batch of primer for free but it would of been nice if they sent 2 helpers with a suitcase full of sandpaper.
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Old 04-27-2017, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Just got off the phone with the previous owner of the boat and he did confirmed the motors spin in opposite direction. The starboard motor spins towards the starboard (Away from the centerline of the boat) and the port spins towards the port (Away from the centerline of the boat). The port motor has to have and reverse run starter and the motors are Ford 300 inline 6.
The top of the propeller should always spin away from the keel. If the top of the prop spins to the keel the props run a pretty good chance of sucking air in from the outboard sides of the boat.

Again, the main difference between (most, I know not all!!!!) marine and automotive parts is the fact that the marine parts are Spark Arrested. When you get a bilge full of fuel and a guy that threw on automotive parts......the boat goes up in flames.
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