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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

Old 03-26-2012, 08:57 AM
  #221  
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Those look like the filters on my old Farmall. I can just imagine how cleaning them would go...nearly all that gas will end up in the bilge.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:25 PM
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^^^^^ and indeed it does.
I can remember servicing many an old timer fitted with these. If they're in a difficult spot and spilt I was forced to spend nearly as long cleaning up as servicing! lol
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:10 PM
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Default Inside cabin bilge about to get cleaned/sand/paint

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Old 03-26-2012, 06:42 PM
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Tough to tell from some photos, but other than a little bilge grime, that 50 year old timber looks to be in good shape.......lets see how she looks cleaned and sanded....but that would make me feel good..

if you're going to paint any areas that use to be wet, I would allow it to dry really well, maybe even force dry it a little......
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:27 PM
  #225  
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All the below deck wood looks remarkably good. Wonder how much the paint on there has helped.

Just noticed the thru hull in the bow, is that the head plumbing ? Holding tank at all ? That's another area where the law has changed since this boat was built.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:14 PM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
All the below deck wood looks remarkably good. Wonder how much the paint on there has helped.

Just noticed the thru hull in the bow, is that the head plumbing ? Holding tank at all ? That's another area where the law has changed since this boat was built.
Yes that's the head plumbing. No there isn't a holding tank. I found out the hard way. I kelp thinking my dog was taking a dump by my boat. So after I put the dog inside the house let's just say the problem continued until I realised what was going on.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:45 AM
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In the picture with the thru-hulls, the aft one has a gate valve on it. You might want to replace that with a ball valve, or cap it if you're not using it. Those gate valves have been known to fail. Keep up the good work and don't get discouraged. It's looking good. Back in the day I spent two years reworking an old 34' Hatteras. You'll learn alot, and if you're like me, I learned alot from making mistakes.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrenalinJunkie View Post
In the picture with the thru-hulls, the aft one has a gate valve on it. You might want to replace that with a ball valve, or cap it if you're not using it. Those gate valves have been known to fail. Keep up the good work and don't get discouraged. It's looking good. Back in the day I spent two years reworking an old 34' Hatteras. You'll learn alot, and if you're like me, I learned alot from making mistakes.
Thanks for the encouragement it was really needed. That thru hull that you are talking about is for supplying my toilet with raw water. I do want to replace that gate valve with a different kind of valve but the reason the previous owner went with the gate valve because there isn't no space around that gate valve area. If I went with any other valve that has to swing out or that needs space to open and close it want work because it's going to hit something. If you can let me no what's another reliable valve that's like the gate valve don't require space to open and close I'll switch it out with the one you recommend. Thanks for the info and keep looking at the pictures and let me no if you see something I'm doing wrong or need to do. Like I said before you guys are more experience at this then me so I'm really counting on you all to get me through this restoration. I'll be the muscle if you all be the brains. Thanks again.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:44 AM
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Default Bilge Work

These metal lines are running the entire length of the bilge area. They are installed to loosen anything that may have or will clog up the bilge holes. You just slide them back and forth a few times and this will keep the drain holes free or unclog anything preventing water running through out the bilge.


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Old 03-27-2012, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Thanks for the encouragement it was really needed. That thru hull that you are talking about is for supplying my toilet with raw water. I do want to replace that gate valve with a different kind of valve but the reason the previous owner went with the gate valve because there isn't no space around that gate valve area. If I went with any other valve that has to swing out or that needs space to open and close it want work because it's going to hit something. If you can let me no what's another reliable valve that's like the gate valve don't require space to open and close I'll switch it out with the one you recommend. Thanks for the info and keep looking at the pictures and let me no if you see something I'm doing wrong or need to do. Like I said before you guys are more experience at this then me so I'm really counting on you all to get me through this restoration. I'll be the muscle if you all be the brains. Thanks again.
mem, can you get a better picture or another perspective of that gate valve? There's got to be a better and safer way of controlling the incoming water....
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
mem, can you get a better picture or another perspective of that gate valve? There's got to be a better and safer way of controlling the incoming water....
Yes I'll take the picture today and put it on here tonight. You'll see that any other valve that has to swing out will not open because it will hit the bottom of a board which the toilet sits on. But you guys are a lot smarter then me. I'm sure you all will see what I'm talking about and no just what to do.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
CNC you are right about the deck delamination being only around the edges of the cut out for the tank repair. The rest of the aft deck doesn't have no rotten wood or soft spots. I have been thinking how I'm going to design the aft deck hatches once I remove the deck and replace it. I would like to make it where I have access to the entire underneath aft deck. Any ideas?
Others have posted how to look at the job - it is best done after the deck is open. The boat has been clean - the wood everwhere appears to be solid. I suspect you'll need to add some framing for hatches. Think of it this way - you'll have a good opportunity to build in some supporting structure for a a big livewell.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CNC Boater View Post
Others have posted how to look at the job - it is best done after the deck is open. The boat has been clean - the wood everwhere appears to be solid. I suspect you'll need to add some framing for hatches. Think of it this way - you'll have a good opportunity to build in some supporting structure for a a big livewell.
I agree.

Memco, how about considering a nice removable circular live well that is located by the post for your centre cockpit mounted rod holders? Plumbing for it can be brought up inside the post from under the deck. Neat and tidy.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:47 PM
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Very impressive undertaking! Looks to be in great shape..good luck and please keep the pictures coming..I check your progress first thing when I get home from work everyday.
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Old 03-27-2012, 05:50 PM
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Default Cabin toilet on/off gate valve

Hey guys here is the on/off gate valve for the toilet. This gate valve allow raw water to come inside the toilet so you are able to flush it. It was brought up that I should change it out for a different kind of valve because the gate valve isn't reliable. I would like to change it out but the spot that it's in on 3 sides of the gate valve there isn't room for a valve that have to swing out to open/close. Tell me what you guys think.

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Old 03-27-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Tawn View Post
Very impressive undertaking! Looks to be in great shape..good luck and please keep the pictures coming..I check your progress first thing when I get home from work everyday.
Hey tawn I'm glad you like the thread/boat. It's nice for someone to want to see the thread/boat but it's even more awesome for someone like yourself that the 1st thing you do when you come home is check my thread to see what's going on. Keep coming back,I'll keep the pictures coming. Thanks again for your interest.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:34 PM
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http://www.groco.net/

based on those photo's, I don't see any reason you can't install a proper seacock with a 90 degree handle.....you're already making a 90 degree turn by coming striaght from the hull then putting on and elbow (which looks like black iron pipe), then attaching the gate valve....

get a complete BV series flanged seacock or go with the IBVF series which is a standard thru hull fitting, add an IBVF flanged adapter, then a standard ball valve, then a 90 degree PTCH elbow...all bronze....looks like either a 3/4 or 1 inch set up

What you have now is a blow out waiting to happen.....if that breaks while underway, nothing will save you from filling with water. It's age alone requires changing.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
http://www.groco.net/

based on those photo's, I don't see any reason you can't install a proper seacock with a 90 degree handle.....you're already making a 90 degree turn by coming striaght from the hull then putting on and elbow (which looks like black iron pipe), then attaching the gate valve....

get a complete BV series flanged seacock or go with the IBVF series which is a standard thru hull fitting, add an IBVF flanged adapter, then a standard ball valve, then a 90 degree PTCH elbow...all bronze....looks like either a 3/4 or 1 inch set up

What you have now is a blow out waiting to happen.....if that breaks while underway, nothing will save you from filling with water. It's age alone requires changing.
I'll give it a shot.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:54 PM
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Before you go changing valves you need to understand that is an ILLEGAL head installation by today's regs. Not when it was built back when, but now.

You need to either just use a porty potty or install a legal head with holding tank and a lockable Y valve. Just in case you get stopped.

Check this out: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/13.htm

I know, I'm a pain.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:10 PM
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I agree. You should consider using fresh water to flush and removing and patching the defect left behind from the sea cock. You should consider something like this http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50660 as a means to keep your head and eliminate a thru hull.
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