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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

Old 03-23-2012, 09:19 PM
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Memco, be wary my brother....... before you start cutting have yourself VERY much aware to what you could possibly find in there.
Many a boat mild resto has taken a turn at this point in time toward a major restoration.
When you get that deck up you're likely to want to replace nearly everything you see.

I'm just saying......
Old 03-23-2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by The Woo View Post
Memco, be wary my brother....... before you start cutting have yourself VERY much aware to what you could possibly find in there.
Many a boat mild resto has taken a turn at this point in time toward a major restoration.
When you get that deck up you're likely to want to replace nearly everything you see.

I'm just saying......
That's a good point. What will keep me from replacing everything instead of just the things I need is I'm on a tight budget.Then again those who are restoring a boat always say I'm on a tight budget but always find away to replace everything.
Old 03-23-2012, 09:58 PM
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I love the lines of your boat and am enjoying the resto. As a young college boat builder I understand your on a budget. However just judging by the pictures I would say your going to need to do some deck replacement possibly. Also im a stickler when it comes to my fuel tanks and lines, personally I would have to replace the lines for just the peace of mind. Restores are never easy or cheap, take your budget and double and thats about right!! goodluck man
Old 03-24-2012, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
That's a good point. What will keep me from replacing everything instead of just the things I need is I'm on a tight budget.Then again those who are restoring a boat always say I'm on a tight budget but always find away to replace everything.
If it were me, my first and utmost priority would be hull integrity and mechanical systems....I would not be thinking of electronics, or where to mount them or how to make a fridge system at this point...you will overwhelm yourself thinking about all that stuff at one time.....make it safe and sound first, then move on above the waterline to the bridge and mountings or other items.......this is a long term project....look at some of the other projects on the forum, the Stamas, the Bertram, the C-hawk and others etc.....don't rush it...it will be finished when its finished.
Old 03-24-2012, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
If it were me, my first and utmost priority would be hull integrity and mechanical systems....I would not be thinking of electronics, or where to mount them or how to make a fridge system at this point...you will overwhelm yourself thinking about all that stuff at one time.....make it safe and sound first, then move on above the waterline to the bridge and mountings or other items.......this is a long term project....look at some of the other projects on the forum, the Stamas, the Bertram, the C-hawk and others etc.....don't rush it...it will be finished when its finished.
Well said Maxie
Old 03-24-2012, 01:45 PM
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Oh boy !

Glad you posted all the pics today. If it were me the rear deck would be coming out. The fuel tanks are suspect along with that one patched pipe. 40 years bouncing around on those copper pipes may mean they need and up close inspection for fatigue damage.

All the fuel hoses are shot and probably the exhaust hoses and the hoses on your shafts as well.

Did I see glass fuel filters ! They have to go. Your fuel fills are on the deck, I guess by the age of the boat that may have been OK back then but not now, if you spilled while fueling, gas could leak forward and down the step toward the cabin.

The exhaust hose with the rope holding it up is a fire hazard, should you loose water cooling.

Does the boat have bilge blowers and engine intake air vents ?

Replace the tanks, add senders and put the fills up on the gunnels as to current practice/standards.

Across the inside of your transom is a panel which I assume is hiding the linkage (tie bar) for your externally mounted rudders. You may want to leave that accessible for repairs/maintenance down the line, and not have a bait well etc built in front of it.

When your done with hoses, tanks etc, replace with a plywood deck, resin or epoxy coated both sides and finish the top to your liking.

You didn't follow the THT chant "get a survey" did you. You may want to get one now, $600-700 may help direct you to what needs replacement better, to make this boat safe for your family.

The good thing is your on your own trailer in your own yard and not paying yard bills while you do this.

Your in this deep just keep going, do you have free/cheap access to a boom truck, yank the engines while the deck is out, clean, prep and paint it all up, drop them back in, new deck and your done ( I know easy to say).
Old 03-24-2012, 02:03 PM
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Memco..what a great boat! I will agree you're just getting started, but you seem to have the skills, patience, and eye for detail necessary to properly bring this beauty back.

Me? Gotta 1977 Blackfin. The WHOLE rear deck comes out to access the tank, exhaust..everything under the deck. I would recommend you bite the bullet and simply remove the WHOLE rear deck to properly access the tanks, wiring, exhaust....whatever. Repair, clean, replace, paint..in the end you will be glad you did it.

You can still cut access hatches in the deck for quick access if you want. Mine has small hatches for accessing the stuffing boxes and aft bilge.

Great job!
Old 03-24-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
Oh boy !

Glad you posted all the pics today. If it were me the rear deck would be coming out. The fuel tanks are suspect along with that one patched pipe. 40 years bouncing around on those copper pipes may mean they need and up close inspection for fatigue damage.

All the fuel hoses are shot and probably the exhaust hoses and the hoses on your shafts as well.

Did I see glass fuel filters ! They have to go. Your fuel fills are on the deck, I guess by the age of the boat that may have been OK back then but not now, if you spilled while fueling, gas could leak forward and down the step toward the cabin.

The exhaust hose with the rope holding it up is a fire hazard, should you loose water cooling.

Does the boat have bilge blowers and engine intake air vents ?

Replace the tanks, add senders and put the fills up on the gunnels as to current practice/standards.

Across the inside of your transom is a panel which I assume is hiding the linkage (tie bar) for your externally mounted rudders. You may want to leave that accessible for repairs/maintenance down the line, and not have a bait well etc built in front of it.

When your done with hoses, tanks etc, replace with a plywood deck, resin or epoxy coated both sides and finish the top to your liking.

You didn't follow the THT chant "get a survey" did you. You may want to get one now, $600-700 may help direct you to what needs replacement better, to make this boat safe for your family.

The good thing is your on your own trailer in your own yard and not paying yard bills while you do this.

Your in this deep just keep going, do you have free/cheap access to a boom truck, yank the engines while the deck is out, clean, prep and paint it all up, drop them back in, new deck and your done ( I know easy to say).
X2

This is where you need to spend your time and money. I'm surprised this boat still has much of this original (or just plain old) equipment in it.

Remove the deck, fix whatever rot you find in the structure, replace everything under the deck, rebuild the deck so you can get access to the important equipment down in the future.

Do it once, do it right even if it takes longer and costs more money and you will increase the resell value substantially.

For the fuel tanks, have extra ports installed for return fuel lines. You (or someone one day) might want to install small diesels or modern engines that need return lines.

Good luck. I enjoy watching this thread. That's a really nice old boat.
Old 03-24-2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
If it were me, my first and utmost priority would be hull integrity and mechanical systems....I would not be thinking of electronics, or where to mount them or how to make a fridge system at this point...you will overwhelm yourself thinking about all that stuff at one time.....make it safe and sound first, then move on above the waterline to the bridge and mountings or other items.......this is a long term project....look at some of the other projects on the forum, the Stamas, the Bertram, the C-hawk and others etc.....don't rush it...it will be finished when its finished.
Thanks for getting me back on track because I was starting to veer to the left. I totally agree with you. Why should I be worrying about converting my icebox to a 12 volt refridgerator when I'm having major issues under the aft deck. I'm with you. And yes it was starting to get OVERWHELMING.
Old 03-24-2012, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Thanks for getting me back on track because I was starting to veer to the left. I totally agree with you. Why should I be worrying about converting my icebox to a 12 volt refridgerator when I'm having major issues under the aft deck. I'm with you. And yes it was starting to get OVERWHELMING.
Dad and I know just how OVERWHELMING it can become, and unfortunately, we've had some big bust ups over silly things too
But we walk away, take a breath, and move on.

Early on we decided the structural and mechanical side was the priority, we knew that all along, but it's easy to get sidetracked my shiney things and brochures.
And to be honest, as cool as the electronics etc are these days, they'll be superceded before you hit the water. A nice tidy engine room and systems is always welcome, won't be superceded overnight, and as someone mentioned, WILL substantially increase the value of your boat. Tart up jobs are easy to spot. Proper structural and mechanical restoration is less easy to spot at the docks, but knowledgable boaters will recognize it, and appreciate your work even more.
Old 03-24-2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by obbayer View Post
Oh boy !

Glad you posted all the pics today. If it were me the rear deck would be coming out. The fuel tanks are suspect along with that one patched pipe. 40 years bouncing around on those copper pipes may mean they need and up close inspection for fatigue damage.

All the fuel hoses are shot and probably the exhaust hoses and the hoses on your shafts as well.

Did I see glass fuel filters ! They have to go. Your fuel fills are on the deck, I guess by the age of the boat that may have been OK back then but not now, if you spilled while fueling, gas could leak forward and down the step toward the cabin.

The exhaust hose with the rope holding it up is a fire hazard, should you loose water cooling.

Does the boat have bilge blowers and engine intake air vents ?

Replace the tanks, add senders and put the fills up on the gunnels as to current practice/standards.

Across the inside of your transom is a panel which I assume is hiding the linkage (tie bar) for your externally mounted rudders. You may want to leave that accessible for repairs/maintenance down the line, and not have a bait well etc built in front of it.

When your done with hoses, tanks etc, replace with a plywood deck, resin or epoxy coated both sides and finish the top to your liking.

You didn't follow the THT chant "get a survey" did you. You may want to get one now, $600-700 may help direct you to what needs replacement better, to make this boat safe for your family.

The good thing is your on your own trailer in your own yard and not paying yard bills while you do this.

Your in this deep just keep going, do you have free/cheap access to a boom truck, yank the engines while the deck is out, clean, prep and paint it all up, drop them back in, new deck and your done ( I know easy to say).
What's wrong with glass fuel filters and what kind of fuel filters do I need to get (Post a pic and web site of the fuel filters)? My fuel fills are not on the deck. I have 3 fuel check ports on the deck where I put the fuel stick to see how much fuel I have. I have two fuel filler ports on the port side gunnel and one on the starboard gunnel. The exhaust hose with the rope holding it up is a fire hazard but my question to you is how would you fix it? Before you answer that question go back and look at the pic. You will see the hole that the exhaust is going thorough there isn't NO room between the hole and the exhaust. So how would you prevent the exhaust from hitting that hole? The boat does have bilge blowers and engine intake vents. You said replace the tanks and add senders. What is a sender? And why do I need to replace the tanks if I open the aft deck and find nothing wrong with them? Plus the fuel tanks are made out of monel<----I think I spelled that right. I thought fuel tanks made out of monel is very good because you can repair them and not have to worry about a explosion. Plus you can make a repair to the fuel tanks without removing them. That panel that's across the transom isn't hiding the linkage (tie bar) for my externally mounted rudders. That is in the hatch that's on the aft deck by the transom. I'm not sure what's behind that panel but I'm sure something is back there. I think that's a good idea you said about not making a live well into the transom because I need to have access to what ever that is behind that panel on the transom. I will be restoring the REMOVABLE fish box that I have now and putting a divider in there where one part will be a live well and the other part will be a fish box. But I'll take care of that when I'm done with the boat. I'm not going to pay for a survey because I already have the boat. You guys are my survey and by the looks of it you all are doing a good job telling me what I need to do to the boat. I'll just make sure I keep taking lots of pictures. You said to remove the engines when I remove the aft deck but my engines aren't under the aft deck. My engines are in two engine boxes in the pilothouse. Obbayer when you respond to this post take my post and go line by line when responding because I asked a lot of questions. Thanks
Old 03-24-2012, 10:49 PM
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as far as fuel filters, you want a racor 10 micron fuel filter with the clear cup and a stainless mounting bracket. I have to agree with the others, that deck looks like there might be weak or soft spots in it. i would pull the whole deck and and build a new deck with marine grade douglas fir plywood. you can hot coat the bottom side with epoxy resin and then fiberglass the topside. As far as the engines being removed, if your going through all of this trouble its nice to pull them out and clean them up, repaint, clean out the engine bed, see what needs to be replaced. Your fuel tanks might be just fine but i would want to be able to clearly inspect the entire thing. all of the lines look like they need to be replaced. I think he was suggesting a surveyor so someone is actually there looking at every aspect of your boat and can def tell you what is sound and what needs to be replaced.
Old 03-25-2012, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by tlasbill View Post
as far as fuel filters, you want a racor 10 micron fuel filter with the clear cup and a stainless mounting bracket..
What's wrong with glass fuel filters and what kind of fuel filters do I need to get
http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...RAC_Series.pdf

You want/need the one with the metal bowl, not the clear....320-rac-02

clear bowls are not allowed for use with inboard motors......need the metal bowl....the clear are for outboard use only.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...9530&id=133761

They will be on sale next weekend at Defender.
Old 03-25-2012, 10:46 AM
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I have a "55" Ballard I bought last year..and trust me I know it can look good but with alot of work. I'm replacing Hull boards right now. Seller said the boat was 'tite" with no soft wood.. yeah rite.. I found
plenty. O well. I knew it would need work..Mine is Mahogany over oak..
Old 03-25-2012, 10:56 AM
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maxie, you are correct, im not sure what i was thinking! Last boat I built was a outboard boat so must of been thinking about that.
Old 03-25-2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Thanks for getting me back on track because I was starting to veer to the left. I totally agree with you. Why should I be worrying about converting my icebox to a 12 volt refridgerator when I'm having major issues under the aft deck. I'm with you. And yes it was starting to get OVERWHELMING.
I agree.. I am puuting all my efforts into Hull integrety and paint.. seek out the soft wood and replace. Seek out the rot and replace. Replace rusty fittings thru out the boat..
Once it is water tite and floating.. now you can do the lectronices and electrical.. I had alot of rot in my transom area.. glad I found it .. If you are good with wood then you will
save alot of money...
Old 03-25-2012, 02:36 PM
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Keep in mind, that once you pull that deck up, when it goes back down the option is there for you to make removable deck pieces. That will help you in the long run as you do upgrades and maintenance. The other thing to consider is that all of the wood that was shown in the pictures looks good. There is the possibility of wet wood around any hull penetration. Hoses and pipes old? Yeah sure, but the bones have looked great so fat.

That deck delamination appears to be caused by the edges of the cut out for the tank repair not being sealed properly after the repair.
Old 03-26-2012, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by maxie View Post
http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...RAC_Series.pdf

You want/need the one with the metal bowl, not the clear....320-rac-02

clear bowls are not allowed for use with inboard motors......need the metal bowl....the clear are for outboard use only.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...9530&id=133761

They will be on sale next weekend at Defender.
Maxie and others that have posted thanks for the info on the fuel filters. The web sites that you guys provided I saved them and when I get to the aft deck I will replace my glass fuel filter for the fuel fulter you guys mentioned.
Old 03-26-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by CNC Boater View Post
Keep in mind, that once you pull that deck up, when it goes back down the option is there for you to make removable deck pieces. That will help you in the long run as you do upgrades and maintenance. The other thing to consider is that all of the wood that was shown in the pictures looks good. There is the possibility of wet wood around any hull penetration. Hoses and pipes old? Yeah sure, but the bones have looked great so fat.

That deck delamination appears to be caused by the edges of the cut out for the tank repair not being sealed properly after the repair.
CNC you are right about the deck delamination being only around the edges of the cut out for the tank repair. The rest of the aft deck doesn't have no rotten wood or soft spots. I have been thinking how I'm going to design the aft deck hatches once I remove the deck and replace it. I would like to make it where I have access to the entire underneath aft deck. Any ideas?
Old 03-26-2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
CNC you are right about the deck delamination being only around the edges of the cut out for the tank repair. The rest of the aft deck doesn't have no rotten wood or soft spots. I have been thinking how I'm going to design the aft deck hatches once I remove the deck and replace it. I would like to make it where I have access to the entire underneath aft deck. Any ideas?
You'll know more about what to do once you cut the current deck out...you will see exactly where you need to get access and where you don't.....I would take a look at sportfish builder websites which show how they allow access to there bilges....what does an owner need to get to for service and inspection...go down to your local marina and poke around as well. Also look at some wooden boat restoration websites for ideas....go to Wooden Boat Forum or Chris-Craft Antique Boat Club, or look at websites from current wooden boat builders such as Jarret Bay, American Custom Yacht, Micheal Rybovich & Sons etc...you will see how they build their decks and get some good ideas of how to attack your own rebuild.

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