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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

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1962 28ft M.E.M.C.O. Sportfisher Restoration

Old 01-17-2019, 08:05 PM
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Default Starboard motor primer/paint prep

When I received the rebuilt starboard/port motor from the machine shop I coated the outside of the motors with ospho so they wouldn’t rust. The reason I applied ospho to motors because I new it would be awhile before I paint them and I didn’t want them to rust. After I coated them with ospho I wrapped them up in a trash bag. In preparation for primer/paint I have to remove the film that was left from the ospho. I used a air wire wheel for two reasons- 1. To remove the film that was left behind from the ospho 2. To remove anything that may be loose. The photos below are before/after pictures. After I wipe the entire motor off with Acetone then it will be ready for primer/paint.







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Old 01-17-2019, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Here she go.
Awesome really awesome beautiful boat. Thanks for sharing her.
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Old 01-17-2019, 08:44 PM
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where did you get the osho?
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Old 01-18-2019, 03:56 AM
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Looking good!
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Old 01-18-2019, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by fijon View Post
where did you get the osho?
Ace Hardware. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area and wear gloves, eye protection, and long sleeves when handling this stuff. I accidentally got some on my arm and the irritation from the Ospho wasn’t pleasant. But, this stuff is very good at preventing rust. I coated both my bare metal starboard/port motors with this stuff and months later there’s still no rust on them.






Last edited by 28memco; 01-18-2019 at 05:22 AM.
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Old 01-18-2019, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
While preparing the Starboard motor for primer/paint I noticed some numbers on the front of the motor. Do anyone know what these numbers mean?
Those are the block number, you should be able to find a website that decodes that. It will tell when and where the motor was built and certain specs about the block, volume, hp, etc.
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Old 01-18-2019, 09:33 AM
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Right out of the machine shop hot tank, parts are ready to paint. Now you have to get that Ospho off, not sure how to do that. Would have been easier to just paint. Ospho is phosphoric acid based mix. You put a base coat of engine paint on, then after assembly you do touch up with the same paint. Now you have to clean all over again.

Be careful running a wire wheel with open ports on cylinder head. The wheels shed wires and you don't want that in your engine. Blue tape over ports is a good idea and just let rocker cover rest over valve gear to keep debris out.
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Old 01-18-2019, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
Right out of the machine shop hot tank, parts are ready to paint. Now you have to get that Ospho off, not sure how to do that. Would have been easier to just paint. Ospho is phosphoric acid based mix. You put a base coat of engine paint on, then after assembly you do touch up with the same paint. Now you have to clean all over again.

Be careful running a wire wheel with open ports on cylinder head. The wheels shed wires and you don't want that in your engine. Blue tape over ports is a good idea and just let rocker cover rest over valve gear to keep debris out.
That's why I hate ospho. Unless you use EXACTLY the right amount with zero excess after it reacts (which never happens) paint will not stay as well as bare steel. And I second the put tape over the open ports suggestion. That is a very easy way get a lot of debris into your engine.
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Old 01-19-2019, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Gnrphil View Post
Acetone
Thank you.



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Old 01-19-2019, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Corndog38 View Post
Right out of the machine shop hot tank, parts are ready to paint. Now you have to get that Ospho off, not sure how to do that. Would have been easier to just paint. Ospho is phosphoric acid based mix. You put a base coat of engine paint on, then after assembly you do touch up with the same paint. Now you have to clean all over again.

Be careful running a wire wheel with open ports on cylinder head. The wheels shed wires and you don't want that in your engine. Blue tape over ports is a good idea and just let rocker cover rest over valve gear to keep debris out.
Even though the motors have had a bath in the hot tank at the machine shop I still wanted to be 100% sure they are clean from oil/grease/dirt before I paint them.






Last edited by 28memco; 01-19-2019 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:14 PM
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Default To windy to paint

Now that the starboard motor is clean from dirt/grease, today I sealed/taped all necessary areas on the motor so I can paint. With a high temperature today of 80 degrees (Yes, this is winter time for us Floridians) this was a perfect day to paint the starboard motor. Just as I finished taping/sealing everything up the wind picked up and kelp blowing for the rest of the day. Since I wasn’t able to paint the motor today because of the wind I started removing the film that was left from the ospho on the starboard transmission. I removed 99% of the film but I still have a few tight/small areas to get to before the transmission is ready for cleaning with acetone. Even though I wasn’t able to paint the engine today at least when I do paint it I’ll be able to paint the transmission and the engine at same time.







Transmission coated in ospho.




Last edited by 28memco; 01-19-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by greenjeepcherokee View Post
Awesome really awesome beautiful boat. Thanks for sharing her.
I'm glad you are enjoying the thread. Hopefully I can hear the rebuilt motors roar pretty soon. Keep coming back for updates.
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Old 01-19-2019, 06:42 PM
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Once the motors have been painted and put back together I will be adding oil to them. Would anyone recommend full synthetic motor oil in the rebuilt motors and what weight motor oil should I use?
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:03 PM
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Run conventional oil for the first 50
​​​hours.
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Rico2 View Post
Run conventional oil for the first 50
​​​hours.
After 50 hours can I switch to full synthetic oil or should I keep using conventional oil?
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
After 50 hours can I switch to full synthetic oil or should I keep using conventional oil?
Yes...you can switch
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rico2 View Post
Yes...you can switch
Why do you recommend that I start off with conventional oil for the first 50 hours?
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Old 01-19-2019, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 28memco View Post
Why do you recommend that I start off with conventional oil for the first 50 hours?
10/30
Any major brand will work.

I'm sure there's lots of guys that'll chime in with some crazy requirements, but I'm giving you my simple thoughts on the subject
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Old 01-19-2019, 09:32 PM
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I have some brass FUEL fittings that will have non-ethanol fuel running threw them. Can I use teflon tape on the male threads to seal the fittings up when I screw them in? Also, the brass fittings on the transmission will have TRANSMISSION FLUID running threw them. Can I also use Teflon tape on the brass transmission fittings? If I can’t use Teflon tape on either what should I use?
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Old 01-20-2019, 04:58 AM
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It is my understanding that for fuel fittings, you are not supposed to. If the thread is NPT, then it is tapered and should seal up nicely. Now, having said that, I did use teflon on a particular 90 degree fitting once so I could get it tight AND pointing where it needed to be. I was very careful to start the tape about a third of the way up the body to be sure I didn't get any into the fuel line. It worked fine for years.

I don't know how the transmission fittings are made. Not sure if they are NPT or not?
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